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Climb Matterhorn

tour
Height (m)
4478
Duration
7 days
Difficulty
Average
Continent
Europe
Children
No
Accomodation
Without tents
According to the safety requirements  of International Association of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA), during this program one guide can work with only one participant. It is perfectly in line with our concept of security on the routes of such complexity level. Generally, we can offer Matterhorn ascent from any side, but we decided to conduct our regular tours from the Italian side. Matterhorn ascent is usually a logical continuation of Mont Blanc ascent. There is a lot in common: no living in tents during the tour, comfortable accommodation and a minimal amount of equipment in a backpack, along with quite interesting peaks and not the easiest route. Technically Matterhorn ascent is rather complex, it is not a pedestrian route, guides-clients ratio in our Matterhorn ascent programs is always strictly 1:1, as we do not consider all other options to be safe enough. Despite not very high altitude, acclimatization is vital, as any delay or slow movement along the route is very undesirable, and the relief is not very suitable for any physical assistance by other person.

About the tour

Climbing one of the most beautiful and, perhaps, the most famous peaks of Europe along the classical path from Switzerland. Steep and long rocky ridge, snow and icy rocks require maximum concentration and good preparation from climbers. Therefore, we recommend this ascent only to experienced climbers who have at least been to peaks above 4000 meters and already have experience of rock climbing.

Regardless of the level of participants, training and acclimatization ascents to the peaks of Egvi d are conducted immediately before the ascent.’Entre (Aiguille D’entreves, 3600m) and Breithorn (Breithorn, 4146 m).

The program of guided ascent to Matterhorn.

Day 1. Arrival of participants. The most convenient airport for arrival is located in Geneva. Alternatively, you can consider the airports of Milan and Turin. Then transfer to Courmayeur. Dinner and instructing the group. Accommodation in a hotel/hotel/apartment
Day 2. Preparation for the upcoming ascents, acclimatization and fitting of equipment.Meeting with the guide in the morning. Checking equipment, solving formalities. Transfer to the Skyway cable car.
We go up to the hut of Turino (3375m). Then exit to the glacier and climb to the small rocky peak of Eigvi d’Entre (Aiguille d’entreves, 3600m). From the top, in good weather, there is a wonderful view of Mont Blanc. Descent to Courmayeur
Day 3. Acclimatization exit and classes near the hut “Guides Cervino” (Guide del Cervino, 3489m).Transfer to the Valtournenche Valley to the foot. Matterhorn town of Breuil-Cervinia. From here, take the cable car to the upper station “Plateau Rosa”. The hut is a 5-minute walk from the cable car. After accommodation in the hut, the acclimatization exit is up to 3900m. Preparing for the next day. Overnight in a mountain hut.
Day 4. Climbing the Breithorn (Breithorn, 4146m). Descent and return to Courmayeur. Training day before the main ascent of the Matterhorn. Early exit and ascent of the Brighthorn along the eastern ridge (semi-traverse of the massif). A technically interesting ascent as close as possible to the conditions of climbing the Matterhorn will allow you to test your capabilities and prepare as effectively as possible for the main goal of the program. Descent to the hut and then by cable car down to Cervinia. Transfer to Courmayeur.
Day 5. Rest day. It can also be used as a backup day in case of bad weather and unforeseen circumstances.
Day 6. Transfer to Zermatt and transfer to Hernley Hut.
After breakfast, transfer to Zermatt (Zermatt, Switzerland), from where we will climb the cantata road to the station “Schwarzsee” (Schwarzsee, 2552m). Here we will start our walking part of the way to the Hernli hut (Hörnlihütte, 3260m). Overnight in a mountain hut.
Day 7. Climbing the Matterhorn (Matterhorn, 4478m). Descent to Zermatt.
The most responsible and difficult day of the program. We go out at five cheers, in fact in the dark, and immediately up the difficult rocks. A difficult and complex ridge, snow may lie on the rocks in places. However, the most problematic part of the ascent is the summit tower. It is very important to calculate the forces correctly, because after the top there will be at least a long descent down.
Upon returning to the hut. Hernley has a short rest and then down to Zermatt. Transfer to Courmayeur.
Day 8. Transfer to Geneva. Plane back home.

Included in the cost of Matterhorn climb:

  • Services of a certified mountain or mountaineering guide;
  • All his expenses related to the program;
  • Meeting in Courmayeur;
  • All ground crossings according to the program;
  • Accommodation in mountain huts;
  • Meals (breakfast+dinner) in mountain huts;
  • Cable cars

Not included in the cost of Matterhorn climb:

  • The road to Courmayeur and back;
  • Accommodation in Courmayeur;
  • Meals in Courmayeur;
  • Insurance covering the cost of rescue work in the mountains;
  • Equipment rental;
  • Tips by a mountain guide
  • Any costs caused by the changing of the programs

Equipment

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Special clothing

  • 1st layer (top and bottom): thermal underwear
  • 2nd layer (top): fleece, windstopper or anthological jackets
  • 2nd layer (bottom): softshell pants for mountaineering
  • 3rd layer (top and bottom): wind- /moisture-proof clothing (jacket and pants) suitable for mountaineering
  • 4th layer (upper): lightweight down or similar synthetic jacket for temperatures up to -5°C
  • Thick (warm) and medium-thick socks
  • Thin gloves windproof gloves
  • Warm gloves for temperatures up to -5°C
  • Hat
  • Buff, bandana, cap or light cap

Personal item

  • Flask and/or thermos with a volume of 1L
  • Headlamp
  • Personal mini first aid kit (for example: a patch for corns, cold remedies on the lips)
  • Sunglasses with UV protection factor 3 or 4
  • Sunscreen and hygienic lipstick with UV protection factor 50
  • Insurance against accidents in the mountains

For the hut

  • Personal hygiene products
  • Hygienic liner in a sleeping bag made of silk or cotton

Climbing equipment

  • Backpack with a volume of 35-40L
  • Alpine boots for climbing 3500-4500m with the possibility of fixing semi-automatic
  • crampons
  • Safety system
  • Helmet
  • crampons with an anti-clip
  • Ice axe

The guide will have with him public climbing equipment (rope, loops, braces, ice drills, stoppers, etc.), as well as a first aid pharmacy and means of communication

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