{"id":37317,"date":"2013-10-11T14:21:31","date_gmt":"2013-10-11T11:21:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/?p=37317"},"modified":"2026-09-10T16:09:54","modified_gmt":"2026-09-10T13:09:54","slug":"mckinley-climbing-programme","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/hi\/2013\/10\/11\/mckinley-climbing-programme\/","title":{"rendered":"The McKinley climbing programme"},"content":{"rendered":"

The climb of McKinley, the northernmost six-thousander, is often compared to an ascent of the legendary Everest. It, too, is a test of willpower, technical skill and resilience in severe cold. Picture it: tents scattered across snow-covered wastes, ice crevasses hidden beneath the snow, and air that barely climbs above -25 to -30 degrees. Anyone thinking about a trip to McKinley should consider the decision seriously and weigh up every argument for and against.<\/p>\n\n

Today the main route to the summit of McKinley follows the West Buttress and runs to some 30 km. Almost the entire trail crosses the closed Kahiltna Glacier, which is riddled with crevasses buried under deep snow. Although the route has few technically demanding sections, in places its angle reaches 45 degrees, which calls for fixed hand lines alongside the trail.<\/p>\n\n

A guided ascent of Denali (the alternative name for McKinley) involves 15 km of self-propelled travel on skis, with a loaded sled dragging behind. Along the way climbers stop at three camps: Ski Hill (2400 m), Upper Kahiltna Glacier (3000 m) and Squirrel Hill (3300 m). Here they leave the skis and continue in crampons. The longest stage runs from Squirrel Hill to Ranger Camp (4330 m), where you have to get past \u201cWindy Corner\u201d. The final push leads to High Camp (5200 m), from where only about 900 m are left to the summit. This section crosses Denali Pass and brings you out on the highest point in North America. In terms of difficulty, climbing Denali corresponds to grade 5 (or 5B on the Russian scale).<\/p>\n\n

The weather on McKinley deserves a mention of its own. The climate here is thoroughly unwelcoming: the climbing season lasts only from May to July, with a sharp deterioration in August. Storms, hurricane-force winds and abnormal cold are an inherent part of the local climate, and they reduce the likelihood of a successful ascent to roughly 50%. For beginners it is essential to climb with a guide who can be both a support and a mentor in these harsh conditions.<\/p>\n\n

\n

What to explore next<\/h2>\n

View the programme:<\/strong> Climbing Denali (McKinley)<\/a><\/p>\n