{"id":37402,"date":"2016-04-06T21:20:58","date_gmt":"2016-04-06T18:20:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/?p=37402"},"modified":"2026-09-10T16:11:08","modified_gmt":"2026-09-10T13:11:08","slug":"my-elbrus-attempt-part-one","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/ja\/2016\/04\/06\/my-elbrus-attempt-part-one\/","title":{"rendered":"My Attempt. How It Was. Part One"},"content":{"rendered":"

Before setting off for the mountains I managed to spend several days in Pyatigorsk, and that turned out to be an excellent decision. Thanks to the local members of our group, I had a rare chance to see the sights of the town as soon as we had checked into the hotel. Those outings were remarkably interesting, and the hospitality of the local people was genuinely warm, confirming everything I had heard about it. One of the notable places was Beshtau, which rises to 1400 metres and opens up a wonderful view of Pyatigorsk. Although the height is not especially impressive and the climb is not too hard, I found it difficult: I became very short of breath and my heart beat fast. At that moment I thought: if I find it hard here, how will I manage going up Elbrus, which is almost five times higher? The same symptoms appeared later in other members of the party, particularly those who came up to altitude straight after their flight, since the body needs time to acclimatise. It was on that small massif that I saw Elbrus for the first time \u2014 and I have to admit that arriving early was a clear advantage: it let me buy all the equipment I needed in the town’s specialist shops.<\/p>\n\n

When the Elbrus climb with our guides began, we set off for Kislovodsk, or more precisely for its famous spa park, which is considered the second largest in Europe by area. Its scale is so impressive that seeing it in a single day is simply impossible. The park is unusual in that the routes across it are prescribed by doctors for the treatment of various conditions; there are six of them, from 1700 to 6000 metres long.<\/p>\n\n

The next morning we met at the station with all our equipment and, after getting to know the other members of the trip and our guides, boarded the buses. On the way we called in at a hire shop for the items we were missing. The road wound up the mountainside and the views that opened up were simply magical. But we were not driven all the way to camp, so we covered part of the way on foot. On the climb many people found it hard because of the sharp change in pressure. I was interested to learn that quick acclimatisation depends on staying active and going out for walks rather than sitting in the tent. As we passed through the Emmanuel meadow, named after the general who led the first expedition to Elbrus, I found it particularly moving to walk the same route as the people of that time.<\/p>\n\n

The camp stood at 2600 metres, at Dzhily-Su, surrounded by mesh fencing. There was a generator, a shower, a kitchen and lavatories \u2014 everything needed for a temporary stay. We put the tents up quickly, divided the jobs between us and dealt with the domestic side of things. Beautiful country stretched away in every direction, and I felt like a speck among those magnificent mountains.<\/p>\n\n

The first evening passed comfortably: I volunteered to cook supper, which was simple but filling. We went to bed, and in the morning I was woken by the dawn at five, which was unusual for a night owl like me \u2014 but it turned out to be all for the best, since it let me enjoy the beauty around us for longer.<\/p>\n\n

The next day we walked to the Sultan waterfall, which made a powerful impression with its force and its noise. Later we drank narzan, a sparkling mineral spring that bursts straight out of the rock, and then we crossed the Kalinov Bridge, a natural arch rising 15 metres above the water. We even bathed in a narzan bath, which helps to improve the working of the cardiovascular system and the digestion.<\/p>\n\n

The third day brought more serious acclimatisation. First we reached the place known as the German airfield, and then we climbed higher still, to 3100 metres, where the stone mushrooms are. Along the way we were given useful advice about breathing properly, using trekking poles and moving over rocks and boulders. As we climbed, the country changed: bright colours gave way to muted ones and the vegetation thinned out. At the end we came back to base camp, dealt with the chores, had supper and slept soundly.<\/p>\n\n

The next day brought a new challenge: we planned to carry part of our kit up to the upper camp at 3700 metres. Everyone was in good shape and the weather made it possible to save time, so we decided to go straight up with all our equipment. I packed a rucksack with some of the food and the gas cylinders, and it was heavier than I expected. Despite the weight and the cold, we walked slowly and in a single rhythm, getting used to the new conditions little by little.<\/p>\n\n

The climb turned out to be hard: the rocks underfoot often shifted, and the ice was a reminder of the altitude. Reaching camp after nine hours of walking, we were incredibly tired but overwhelmed: ice, rock, clouds drifting past below our feet and Elbrus itself lit by the sun made views that felt genuinely otherworldly.<\/p>\n\n

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What to read next<\/h2>\n

See the programme:<\/strong> Climbing Elbrus from the south, 9 days<\/a><\/p>\n