{"id":13818,"date":"2016-05-15T10:47:05","date_gmt":"2016-05-15T07:47:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/mountainguide.ru\/ru\/climbing\/%d1%85%d0%b0%d0%bd-%d1%82%d0%b5%d0%bd%d0%b3%d1%80%d0%b8\/"},"modified":"2026-09-08T20:55:41","modified_gmt":"2026-09-08T17:55:41","slug":"khan-tengri","status":"publish","type":"product","link":"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/ja\/tours\/climbing\/khan-tengri\/","title":{"rendered":"Climb Khan Tengri, 7010 m \u2014 22-Day Tien Shan Expedition"},"content":{"rendered":"<h2>About the tour<\/h2>\n<p>Khan-Tengri climb involves top physical loads and requires altitude climbing experience along with high level of mountain climbing skills. The climbing route technically is very challenging and dangerous, requiring a good amount of self-discipline, coherence, excellent skills in belaying and dealing with a variety of mountain terrain along with very\u00a0good physical fitness.<\/p>\n<p>The itinerary we offer for a Khan Tengri climb with Mountain Guide involves three weeks of carrying 25\u201330 kg backpacks and camping life in rather uncomfortable conditions, with temperature reaching as low as \u201340 \u00b0C at altitudes above 5,000 m.<\/p>\n<p>And your reward for overcoming all these challenges will be Khan Tegri \u2013 the most spectacular of the Tien Shan mountains and one of the world\u2019s most beautiful peaks with its perfectly shaped pyramidal summit.<\/p>\n<h2>Itinerary for a Khan-Tengri climb.<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Day 1.\u00a0<\/strong>Meeting in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, and transfer from the airport to hotel.<br \/>\n<strong>Day 2.<\/strong>\u00a0A 460 km ride from Bishkek to camp Karkara at the altitude of 2,500 m, with overnight stay in tents or cottage houses.<br \/>\n<strong>Day 3.<\/strong>\u00a0Training and acclimatization hikes to altitudes of up to 4,100 m.<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a04.<\/strong>\u00a0Helicopter flight to Base Camp located at the altitude of 4,000 m, on the North Inylchek Glacier \u2013 the third longest in the world \u2013 stretching 62 km. Overnight stay in tents.<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a05.\u00a0<\/strong>Of Khan Tengri climb will be spent having rest, acclimatizing and making small hikes around.<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a06.\u00a0<\/strong>Early morning rise and setting out for a hike to Camp 1 (at 4,200 m), located at confluence of glaciers North Inylchek and Semyonovskij. The ascent is pretty dangerous due to high risk of landslides from Chapaev Peak and Khan Tengri.<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a07.<\/strong>\u00a0Hike to Camp 2 (at 5,300 m) with overnight stay there.<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a08.<\/strong>\u00a0Hike to camp 3 located at 5, 800 m at a glacial spot connecting Khan Tengri with Chapaev Peak\u2019s shoulder. Descent to Camp 2 for overnight stay.<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a09.<\/strong>\u00a0Descent to Base camp.<br \/>\n<strong>Days\u00a010-11.\u00a0<\/strong>Rest and acclimatization.<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a012.\u00a0<\/strong>Hike to Camp 1 (4,200 m).<br \/>\n<strong>Day 13.\u00a0<\/strong>Hike to Camp 2 (5,300 m).<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a014.\u00a0<\/strong>Hike to Camp 3 (at 5,800 m).<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a015.<\/strong>\u00a0Summiting Khan-Tengri. The route from Camp 3 passes through a Col and farther along the right side of West Ridge of Khan Tengri. This part of the route is usually equipped with ropes. The trail is rocky up to the altitude of 6,900 m, followed by a snowy dome that gradually turns into a narrow snowy stripe leading to the summit.<br \/>\nAfter passing the West Ridge, we\u2019ll make a traverse to the right in the direction of the Col. At its entrance, there is a 10-meter high rock wall. Then the trail passes through the Col until it turns to the right again and up to the snowy ridge, passing over rocks, until it reaches a 20-meter high rock wall, and, finally, the summit.<br \/>\nSince descent is as challenging as ascent, we won\u2019t spend much time on the summit.<br \/>\nOn ridges at altitudes of 6,200, 6,400 and 6,700 m there are sports suitable for camping. We will camp at 6,400 m (which is the most suitable one).<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a016.<\/strong>\u00a0Descent to Base camp.<br \/>\n<strong>Days\u00a017-18.\u00a0<\/strong>These days of Khan Tengri climb are reserved for better acclimatization needs or in case of having bad weather.<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a019.\u00a0<\/strong>Flight back to Karkara.<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a020.\u00a0<\/strong>Ride to Bishkek.<br \/>\n<strong>Day\u00a021.\u00a0<\/strong>Flight back home.<\/p>\n<h2>Included in the price of Khan-Tengri climb:<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>All transfers mentioned in the itinerary, including helicopter flights, with up to 25kg of luggage allowed per person<\/li>\n<li>Mountain guides: one for 5-6 members on acclimatization, and one for 3-4 members on the summit day)<\/li>\n<li>Accommodation according to the itinerary<\/li>\n<li>Breakfast, lunch and dinner in Base camp and throughout the ascent and descent.<\/li>\n<li>Food and gas for high camps<\/li>\n<li>Breakfasts and dinners during stays in two cities<\/li>\n<li>All required documents<\/li>\n<li>Kitchen stuff for BC except for personal cups, spoons and plates.<\/li>\n<li>Ropes<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Not included in the price of Khan Tengri climb:<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Everything that is not mentioned in program<\/li>\n<li>Airtickets<\/li>\n<li>Insurance<\/li>\n<li>Tips<\/li>\n<li>Porters<\/li>\n<li>Drinks<\/li>\n<li>Any costs associated with program changes<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Equipment.<\/h2>\n<p><a role=\"button\" href=\"#\"><br \/>\nDownload PDF<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<h2>Guided ascent of Khan Tengri<\/h2>\n<p>Khan Tengri is one of the most beautiful and most technically serious seven-thousanders of the Central Tien Shan. The expedition trip runs for 22 days and includes preliminary acclimatisation at Karkara, work from a Base Camp at 4000 m, high-altitude excursions, the establishment of camps and a reserve for the weather. Two confirmed variants are offered &mdash; via the South or the North Inylchek.<\/p>\n<p>The route is intended for experienced mountaineers. A participant needs a climbing record no lower than 6000 m, confident use of crampons, ice axe, ascender and descender, readiness for self-sufficient nights at altitude and for long technical days. The trip is not suitable for a first experience of altitude, and it is not suitable for children.<\/p>\n<p>The group works with a lead guide whose high-altitude record extends to 8000 m. Staged acclimatisation, returns to Base Camp between high-altitude cycles and reserve days all improve the chances of running the expedition well, but the summit cannot be guaranteed. Decisions on pace, on setting off and on turning around are taken with safety as the priority.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Important:<\/strong> the side of the route, the dates, the composition of the team, the helicopter logistics and the current conditions must all be confirmed before you buy tickets.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":13885,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"product_cat":[320],"product_tag":[],"class_list":["post-13818","product","type-product","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","product_cat-climbing","first","instock","featured","virtual","purchasable","product-type-simple"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Climb Khan Tengri, 7010 m, in 22 Days | Mountain Guide<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A 22-day Khan Tengri expedition in the Central Tien Shan, via the South 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