{"id":37412,"date":"2016-04-18T21:12:28","date_gmt":"2016-04-18T18:12:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/?p=37412"},"modified":"2026-09-10T16:11:15","modified_gmt":"2026-09-10T13:11:15","slug":"when-dreams-become-reality-part-one","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/ko\/2016\/04\/18\/when-dreams-become-reality-part-one\/","title":{"rendered":"When Dreams Become Reality\u2026 Part One"},"content":{"rendered":"

Our team recently made an attempt on Elbrus. I will admit that the idea of standing on the summit within days had never even crossed my mind. At the very least, I had no wish to do it alone. But trying to reach the top in the company of more experienced people seemed like a fine idea. How did it turn out? You are about to find out.<\/p>\n\n

So there were eighteen of us in all, including four guides, each of whom had climbed many times, and Elbrus in particular. Our team also included two doctors who had come along with their families. At first I was a little worried that there were so many of us, but my concerns proved unfounded: in a couple of weeks on the trail we had not a single falling-out. On the contrary, everyone helped and supported everyone else. From the very beginning we had agreed to work as one team, to stay together at all times and to solve any problems jointly.<\/p>\n\n

The route was due to start from the village of Elbrus. The first day held a short stage for us: up the path from the village and then into the gorge with the unusual name Irik-Chat. We planned to spend the night in a small pine wood beside a river and a waterfall, having climbed 520 metres to an altitude of 2320 metres.<\/p>\n\n

On the second day we had to carry on up the Irik-Chat gorge. The forest ended quickly, alpine meadows began, and a session on walking and breathing technique was waiting for us. We slept in the valley at the foot of Mount Irik at 2950 metres.<\/p>\n\n

The third day was set aside for the climb to the Irik-Chat pass, which gives wonderful views both south and north. In the afternoon we practised holding ourselves on a snow slope with an ice axe and worked on our crampon technique. A night at the pass at 3667 metres became an important part of the acclimatisation. After that we dropped to a lower altitude, which gave our bodies a chance to recover.<\/p>\n\n

The fourth day was given over to the descent from the pass down the northern side, across an ice plateau, past Kalitsky Peak and the lakes, through scenery that looks almost lunar. We stopped for the night on the Emmanuel meadow at 2600 metres.<\/p>\n\n

The fifth day was planned as a rest day, so that we could recover our strength before the final part of the trip. We took a look at the local sights, which really are impressive.<\/p>\n\n

The sixth day began with an early start. We set off for the North Shelter by way of the German airfield, gaining 1100 metres over the day. We slept at 3700 metres.<\/p>\n\n

The seventh day brought an acclimatisation walk to the Lenz Rocks at 5000 metres, with a return to camp towards evening. That day involved a height difference of about 1300 metres.<\/p>\n\n

On the eighth day the start came at two in the morning. We were to move roped up across the glacier to the assault camp at the Lenz Rocks at 4700 metres. The early start gave us a chance to prepare and get used to that schedule, so that the next two-in-the-morning start would not come as a shock to the body.<\/p>\n\n

And finally, on the ninth day, the ascent of Elbrus itself was waiting for us.<\/p>\n\n

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What to read next<\/h2>\n

See the programme:<\/strong> Climbing Elbrus from the north<\/a><\/p>\n