{"id":37148,"date":"2026-07-28T00:52:58","date_gmt":"2026-07-27T21:52:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/?page_id=37148"},"modified":"2026-09-10T16:51:21","modified_gmt":"2026-09-10T13:51:21","slug":"bezengi-stars","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/zh\/bezengi-stars\/","title":{"rendered":"Stars of Bezengi: 6 five-thousanders and a climbing programme"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>\u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d is the classic programme of climbs on the six five-thousanders of the Bezengi area in the Central Caucasus.<\/strong> The official list of the \u201cSilver Stars of Bezengi\u201d contains Shkhara, Jangi-Tau, Mizhirgi, Dykh-Tau, Pushkin Peak and Koshtan-Tau.<\/p>\n<p>This is one of the most serious regional mountaineering collections in the CIS. There are no trekking entries here: every summit calls for technical preparation, confident rope work, snow, ice and rock skills, good speed and experience of multi-day routes. An altitude of around 5000 metres raises the demands, but the main difficulty comes not from the figure but from the scale of the Caucasian terrain.<\/p>\n<p>The name \u201cCrown of Bezengi\u201d is used inconsistently in conversation and in commercial descriptions. On this page we do not mix the different readings and follow the official list of the Bezengi mountaineering camp &#8211; the six \u201cSilver Stars\u201d. Mountain Guide currently has a separate programme published for Dykh-Tau. The other summits are described in full but are not presented as ready-to-book products.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/contacts\/\"><strong>Assess your readiness for Dykh-Tau and the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d programme<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n<p><!-- MG-SERIES-STRIP-v1:START --><\/p>\n<style id=\"mg-series-strip-v1\">\n.page-content .mg-series-strip{margin:1.7em 0 2em;padding:22px;border:1px solid #d7e3ea;border-radius:18px;background:linear-gradient(135deg,#f7fbfd,#edf6fa);overflow:hidden}\n.page-content .mg-series-strip h2.mg-series-strip__title{margin:0 0 .45em!important;color:#0d3650!important;font-size:clamp(22px,3vw,28px)!important;line-height:1.2!important}\n.page-content .mg-series-strip__intro{max-width:900px;margin:0 0 16px;color:#385466;font-size:16px;line-height:1.55}\n.page-content .mg-series-strip__hint{margin:10px 0 0;color:#607785;font-size:13px}\n.page-content .mg-series-strip ul.products{display:grid!important;grid-template-columns:none!important;grid-auto-flow:column;grid-auto-columns:minmax(220px,252px);gap:16px!important;margin:0!important;padding:2px 2px 12px!important;overflow-x:auto;overscroll-behavior-inline:contain;scroll-snap-type:x proximity;scrollbar-width:thin;scrollbar-color:#8db8cc transparent}\n.page-content .mg-series-strip ul.products>li.product{min-width:0;margin:0!important;padding:0 0 12px!important;border:1px solid #d4e0e6;border-radius:14px;background:#fff;box-shadow:0 8px 22px rgba(13,54,80,.10);overflow:hidden;scroll-snap-align:start}\n.page-content .mg-series-strip ul.products>li.product>a{display:block;text-decoration:none!important}\n.page-content .mg-series-strip ul.products>li.product>a>img{display:block;width:100%!important;height:auto!important;aspect-ratio:4\/3;object-fit:cover;margin:0!important}\n.page-content .mg-series-strip ul.products>li.product>a>div.h-16{height:80px!important;margin-top:-80px!important;padding:18px 10px 8px!important;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(0,0,0,0),rgba(0,0,0,.88))!important}\n.page-content .mg-series-strip ul.products>li.product h2{margin:0!important;color:#fff!important;font-size:16px!important;line-height:1.2!important;text-decoration:none!important;text-shadow:0 1px 4px rgba(0,0,0,.95);display:-webkit-box;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;-webkit-line-clamp:3;overflow:hidden}\n.page-content .mg-series-strip ul.products>li.product .price{display:block!important;margin:0!important;padding:11px 13px 0!important;color:#1287b4!important;font-size:16px!important;line-height:1.25!important;font-weight:800!important}\n.page-content .mg-series-strip ul.products>li.product>div.text-sm{display:none!important}\n@media(min-width:1080px){.page-content .mg-series-strip ul.products{grid-auto-columns:calc((100% - 48px)\/4)}}\n@media(max-width:639px){.page-content .mg-series-strip{margin:1.25em 0 1.6em;padding:16px 12px;border-radius:15px}.page-content .mg-series-strip ul.products{grid-auto-columns:minmax(250px,82vw)}.page-content .mg-series-strip__intro{font-size:15px}.page-content .mg-series-strip__hint{display:block}}\n<\/style>\n<section class=\"mg-series-strip\" data-series=\"bezengi-stars-path\" aria-labelledby=\"mg-series-bezengi-stars-path\">\n<h2 class=\"mg-series-strip__title\" id=\"mg-series-bezengi-stars-path\">Programmes on the way to the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d<\/h2>\n<p class=\"mg-series-strip__intro\">Dykh-Tau is one of the six \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d. Elbrus and Kazbek are not, but they are a useful high-altitude and technical step before the big routes of the area.<\/p>\n<div class=\"woocommerce columns-4 \"><\/div>\n<p class=\"mg-series-strip__hint\">On a phone, swipe the cards sideways.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n<p><!-- MG-SERIES-STRIP-v1:END --><\/p>\n<nav class=\"mg-seven-summits-toc\" aria-label=\"Page contents\">\n<p><strong>Contents<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"#what\">What the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d are<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#list\">The six five-thousanders<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#peaks\">The character of each summit<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#overlap\">The link with the \u201cSnow Leopard of Russia\u201d<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#for-whom\">Who the programme suits<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#start\">Where to start on the way to Bezengi<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#skills\">The technical skills you need<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#fitness\">Physical and high-altitude preparation<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#season\">The season and preparatory camps<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#guide\">How to choose a guide and a group format<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#documents\">Documents and your personal archive<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#budget\">The budget of a big Caucasus programme<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#safety\">Objective dangers and safety<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#mistakes\">Typical mistakes<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#programme\">Mountain Guide programmes<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#faq\">Frequently asked questions<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#useful\">Articles and other series<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/nav>\n<h2 id=\"what\">What the \u201cSilver Stars of Bezengi\u201d are<\/h2>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.bezengi.ru\/ru\/stars-bezengi\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The official programme of the Bezengi mountaineering camp<\/a> brings together six five-thousanders of the area. Once the climbs are verified, a participant can apply for the commemorative badge under the rules of the programme&#8217;s organiser in force at the time. The current requirements for routes, documents and verification should be checked before the project begins, not after the last summit.<\/p>\n<p>Bezengi is called the \u201clittle Himalaya\u201d of the Caucasus because of the scale of its walls and glaciers and the concentration of high summits. It is a fine comparison, but it does not mean the conditions are the same as in Nepal or Pakistan. The area has its own weather, geology, route traditions, access and rescue infrastructure.<\/p>\n<p>The value of the series is not only the badge. It forces a mountaineer to develop, step by step:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>rock technique in mountain boots;<\/li>\n<li>movement on snow and ice;<\/li>\n<li>roped travel, anchors, belaying and abseils;<\/li>\n<li>route-finding and choosing a line in big terrain;<\/li>\n<li>speed on long routes;<\/li>\n<li>high-altitude endurance and living out for several days;<\/li>\n<li>the ability to judge rockfall, avalanches, crevasses and weather.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>You can complete the programme in any order and over different years. The list itself is not an admission ticket: for each new summit your previous CV, your actual skills and the current conditions are assessed.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"list\">Which summits make up the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d<\/h2>\n<ol>\n<li><strong>Dykh-Tau &#8211; 5204 m.<\/strong> The second highest summit in Russia.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Koshtan-Tau &#8211; 5151 m.<\/strong> A major independent summit of the Central Caucasus.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Pushkin Peak &#8211; 5100 m.<\/strong> A summit of the Dykh-Tau massif.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Jangi-Tau &#8211; 5085 m.<\/strong> One of the principal summits of the Bezengi Wall.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Shkhara &#8211; 5068 m.<\/strong> The highest point in Georgia and a major massif of the Main Caucasus Range.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Mizhirgi &#8211; 5025 m.<\/strong> A technical summit of the Bezengi area.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>All six are also among the highest and most serious objectives in the Caucasus. The small differences in altitude do not create an honest ranking of difficulty. The state of the route, the grade of the line chosen, the weather, the season and the condition of the team all count for more than the order of the figures.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"peaks\">Six summits &#8211; six separate tasks<\/h2>\n<h3>Dykh-Tau &#8211; 5204 m<\/h3>\n<p>Dykh-Tau is the highest mountain in the programme and the second highest summit in Russia after Elbrus. It stands in the Side Range and forms a complex massif with Pushkin Peak. Even the classic lines are full technical mountaineering.<\/p>\n<p>You need experience of multi-pitch routes, confident movement on snow, ice and rock, work in crampons, the ability to set up belays and to descend quickly. An altitude above 5000 metres slows down familiar actions, so a shortfall in technique cannot be made up with fitness alone.<\/p>\n<p>Dykh-Tau belongs both to the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d and to the <a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/snow-leopard-of-russia\/\">\u201cSnow Leopard of Russia\u201d<\/a>. Mountain Guide has a separate programme for it, but participation is possible only after your mountaineering experience has been assessed.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/tours\/climbing\/dykh-tau\/\"><strong>The Dykh-Tau climbing programme<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n<h3>Koshtan-Tau &#8211; 5151 m<\/h3>\n<p>Koshtan-Tau is one of the best-known summits in the area. Its severe massif is clearly visible from the Bezengi glaciers. The climb calls for the skills of a big mountain route, confident belaying and the ability to hold a pace for many hours.<\/p>\n<p>The particular difficulty cannot be described in one phrase without naming the route. The lines differ, and the state of the snow, ice and rock changes with the seasons. So somebody&#8217;s report from ten years ago is useful as history but is no substitute for current information.<\/p>\n<p>There is currently no separate published Mountain Guide programme for Koshtan-Tau.<\/p>\n<h3>Pushkin Peak &#8211; 5100 m<\/h3>\n<p>Pushkin Peak is part of the Dykh-Tau massif, but the programme counts it as an independent summit. This is an important reminder: geographical closeness does not make two objectives one climb. You have to meet the conditions of the rules in force and have separate verification.<\/p>\n<p>The routes on the massif demand high technical discipline. A participant has to do more than climb: they must set up belays quickly, work on mixed terrain, find the route and stay alert on the descent.<\/p>\n<h3>Jangi-Tau &#8211; 5085 m<\/h3>\n<p>Jangi-Tau stands in the massif of the Bezengi Wall &#8211; a long high-mountain system of the Main Caucasus Range. The climb involves big terrain, altitude and border geography. Planning has to take account of current lawful access and of the actual state of the route.<\/p>\n<p>On a long wall, speed becomes an element of safety. It should not be understood as haste: it means precise, well-practised actions, a minimum of unnecessary stops and the ability to pass the key sections within the estimated time.<\/p>\n<h3>Shkhara &#8211; 5068 m<\/h3>\n<p>Shkhara is the highest summit in Georgia and one of the most significant mountains of the Greater Caucasus. The massif lies on the state border. The choice of side and route is tied to the border rules, permits and logistics in force, and these have to be checked for the particular season.<\/p>\n<p>Shkhara must not become an entry that people try to \u201cpick up\u201d for the sake of the list. Its length, its terrain and its objective dangers call for a full separate expedition.<\/p>\n<h3>Mizhirgi &#8211; 5025 m<\/h3>\n<p>Mizhirgi is a technical five-thousander of the area, where the quality of your rock and ice preparation shows over the whole route. As with the other summits in the programme, the outcome depends on the combination of personal form, teamwork, conditions and speed.<\/p>\n<p>For Mizhirgi, experience of several Caucasus routes of increasing difficulty is valuable. Going straight there after a single Elbrus does not build the necessary technical base.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"overlap\">How the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d relate to the \u201cSnow Leopard of Russia\u201d<\/h2>\n<p>All six summits of the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d are on the official list of the \u201cSnow Leopard of Russia\u201d: Dykh-Tau, Koshtan-Tau, Pushkin Peak, Jangi-Tau, Shkhara and Mizhirgi. So a verified climb can advance both programmes.<\/p>\n<p>But the lists do not coincide completely. The Russian \u201cSnow Leopard\u201d additionally requires Elbrus, Kazbek, Klyuchevskaya Sopka and Belukha. The Bezengi series concentrates on one technical area and does not include those four summits.<\/p>\n<p>In practice it is convenient to keep a single logbook:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the name of the summit and the route;<\/li>\n<li>the dates of the start and of the summit;<\/li>\n<li>the make-up of the team and the leader;<\/li>\n<li>route documents and registration;<\/li>\n<li>photographs and the track, where these are required;<\/li>\n<li>verification under the rules of both programmes.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The exact documents and the procedure can differ. Check both systems before the expedition if you want one climb to count towards two projects.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"for-whom\">Who the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d suit<\/h2>\n<p>This series suits not simply someone who is physically strong but a mountaineer who is genuinely interested in technical growth. In Bezengi you will have to learn a great deal, repeat basic actions, review your mistakes and sometimes leave without the summit. If the value of the project is measured only by the number of entries closed, it will quickly become a source of bad decisions.<\/p>\n<p>A useful starting profile:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>regular physical training and experience of long mountain days;<\/li>\n<li>several multi-pitch rock routes;<\/li>\n<li>confident work in crampons and with belays;<\/li>\n<li>experience of glaciers, roped travel and nights at altitude;<\/li>\n<li>an understanding of your own role in a team;<\/li>\n<li>a willingness to do a check route and to accept a negative admission decision.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>A beginner can also set such a long-term goal, but the first purchase should be training, not an expedition to a five-thousander. Between a basic course and a first star there may be dozens of useful routes; they do not hold the programme up, they are its foundation.<\/p>\n<p>A strong athlete with no technical experience will need the same path, although the physical stages will come more easily. Athletic form speeds up your movement, but it does not teach you to build an anchor, judge rockfall or descend in bad weather.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"start\">Where to start on the way to the big Bezengi summits<\/h2>\n<p>The first step is not choosing the lowest star but building a technical base on smaller routes. You need to learn to move safely and take decisions where a mistake is not yet magnified by altitude, a big wall and remoteness.<\/p>\n<p>A possible ladder looks like this:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li><strong>A basic mountain course.<\/strong> Knots, belaying, anchors, abseils, roped travel, crampons and ice axe.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Rock and snow-and-ice routes of a lower grade.<\/strong> The skills become solid, and you gain experience of leading or of being a strong team member.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Multi-day Caucasus climbs.<\/strong> Route-finding, bivouacs, working with a rucksack, changing weather.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Five-thousanders of a more accessible technical profile.<\/strong> A test of altitude and speed.<\/li>\n<li><strong>A particular star of Bezengi.<\/strong> The route is chosen by the team&#8217;s readiness, not by a wish to start the list quickly.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>Elbrus and Kazbek can help with altitude and glacier living. They are useful, but they do not replace multi-pitch rock technique. Someone who climbed Elbrus easily may still not be ready for the simplest of the available lines on a Bezengi five-thousander.<\/p>\n<p>If the goal is Dykh-Tau with a guide, send more than a list of summits when you get in touch. What helps is the names of the routes, the grades, your role in the group, your experience of leading, your speed on rock, your ice skills, your nights at altitude and the reasons for any previous turnarounds.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"skills\">Which technical skills are essential<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Roped travel and belaying.<\/strong> You must understand the calls, work quickly with the rope, karabiners and belay device, and not create chaos at the anchor.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Anchors and abseils.<\/strong> Even if the guide sets up the anchors, the client has to be able to clip in safely, manage their personal safety line, abseil and not drop equipment.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Rock movement.<\/strong> You need to be steady in mountain boots, to move on easy ground without a constant top rope and to climb with a rucksack. How much is required depends on the route.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Crampons and ice axe.<\/strong> Confident front-pointing and flat-footing, correct foot placement, self-arrest and control of the tool. The skill has to hold up on hard ice and when you are tired.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Fixed ropes and ascender.<\/strong> A fast, faultless changeover, control of the descender and an understanding of where you must not unclip.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Glacier.<\/strong> Roped travel, spacing, recognising crevassed zones and a basic grasp of rescue procedures. A guide reduces the risk but does not remove the participant&#8217;s own discipline.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Route-finding.<\/strong> Fog and snow can hide the track. Navigation, reading the terrain and knowing the way out matter especially on long routes.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Being quick around camp.<\/strong> Packing the rucksack, changing clothes, eating and dealing with water should take minutes, not hours. On a big mountain, slow organisation eats into your safety margin.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"fitness\">Physical and high-altitude preparation<\/h2>\n<p>Bezengi demands endurance, strength and technique at the same time. A strong rock climber may tire on the long snow approaches, while a marathon runner may not manage the technical work. Preparation has to cover both ends.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Aerobic base:<\/strong> long work at moderate intensity, ascents, running, skiing, cycling and hiking. The aim is to hold a pace for many hours.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Strength endurance:<\/strong> legs, trunk, shoulders and grip. Stability on the descent and the ability to work with a rucksack matter more than maximum weights.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Terrain:<\/strong> training on rock, snow and ice cannot be replaced by a gym. You need real mileage in mountain boots, crampons and gloves.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Altitude:<\/strong> five-thousanders require acclimatisation. Before a technical route it is dangerous to be testing your body at 5000 metres for the first time and learning to use your equipment at the same time. Altitude experience is gained beforehand.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Recovery:<\/strong> the series can span several seasons. After a hard route you need to treat minor injuries, rebuild your base form and review your mistakes calmly. The number of summits must not grow faster than the quality.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"season\">Seasons and the role of preparatory camps<\/h2>\n<p>A general climbing season does not guarantee that all six summits will be in the same condition. One line may be in good shape while another is falling apart in the heat or remains dangerous after a snowfall. The particular route is chosen according to the actual situation.<\/p>\n<p>For a first trip to the area, a preparatory camp is as useful as a summit-focused format. It lets you:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>get to know the glaciers and the approaches;<\/li>\n<li>test your acclimatisation on smaller summits;<\/li>\n<li>assess your speed on rock, snow and ice;<\/li>\n<li>practise roped travel, anchors, abseils and rescue procedures;<\/li>\n<li>test your equipment in real weather;<\/li>\n<li>see how the team works together over a long day.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Such a camp is not a wasted season even if no star is closed. It reduces the uncertainty before a serious summit and helps you choose a route by your skills rather than by an attractive name.<\/p>\n<p>The trip plan needs a reserve. After a snowfall the team may need to wait for things to stabilise, and rockfall may mean changing the start time or giving up a line. A return ticket with no margin creates pressure and provokes bad decisions.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"guide\">How to choose a guide and a team format<\/h2>\n<p>For technical five-thousanders what matters is not a general promise of an \u201cexperienced guide\u201d but how relevant their experience is to this particular area and route. Before paying, discuss:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>which line is planned and why it suits you;<\/li>\n<li>when the guide last did this route or received current information about it;<\/li>\n<li>how many clients there are per guide on the technical sections;<\/li>\n<li>how your initial preparation is checked before departure;<\/li>\n<li>who decides on changing the route and on turning back;<\/li>\n<li>what group equipment is included in the programme;<\/li>\n<li>how communications, registration and contact with the rescue service work;<\/li>\n<li>what happens if the weather does not allow the climb to start.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>A small group does not guarantee safety automatically, but on a technical line the ratio of participants to guides affects the speed, the belaying and the ability to keep an eye on everyone. The format has to match the difficulty, not just the price.<\/p>\n<p>A guide cannot remove rockfall, an avalanche or poor acclimatisation. Their job is to assess the conditions, organise the movement and take decisions. A prepared client remains part of that system rather than a passenger.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"documents\">Documents, summit verification and the route review<\/h2>\n<p>To apply for the \u201cSilver Stars\u201d, check the rules of the Bezengi mountaineering camp in advance. If the same climbs are also to count towards the \u201cSnow Leopard of Russia\u201d, check the Russian Mountaineering Federation&#8217;s requirements as well. One set of documents should contain everything both programmes need.<\/p>\n<p>Keep:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the route book or other official document of the group;<\/li>\n<li>the name of the route, its grade and the dates;<\/li>\n<li>the make-up of the team, the leader and the coach;<\/li>\n<li>verification that the summit was reached;<\/li>\n<li>photographs of key points and the track as a supporting archive;<\/li>\n<li>a written review, including mistakes and any dangerous episodes.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The review after the route matters more than a formal report. Write down where the team lost time, how the belaying worked, which items turned out to be unnecessary, why the gloves got wet, when you started to feel worse and whether you had strength left for the descent. These details shape your preparation for the next star.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"budget\">What makes up the budget of the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d<\/h2>\n<p>You cannot multiply the price of one climb by six. The routes differ in length, in preparation, in the number of guides, in group equipment and in reserve. Besides the expeditions themselves, the project includes training camps and intermediate routes.<\/p>\n<p>The cost plan includes:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the guides&#8217; work or the organisation of a sporting team;<\/li>\n<li>accommodation, meals and the mountaineering camp&#8217;s services;<\/li>\n<li>transfers, passes and border formalities;<\/li>\n<li>personal and technical equipment;<\/li>\n<li>insurance covering mountaineering risk;<\/li>\n<li>training sessions, acclimatisation and check routes;<\/li>\n<li>reserve days and the chance of a second attempt in another season.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The key saving is not to rush into buying everything. Ropes and some of the group equipment may be provided by the team, and the model of your personal kit is chosen for the actual route. But critical boots, helmet, harness and gloves have to be tested in advance and you must know how to use them.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"safety\">Weather, rockfall, avalanches and other risks<\/h2>\n<p>The Central Caucasus is a dynamic environment. The state of the snow and ice changes over the season and over the day. Warming increases rockfall and the break-up of ice, fresh snow raises the avalanche danger, and cold and wind slow the team down.<\/p>\n<p>The main categories of risk:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>rockfall and icefall;<\/strong> the timing of your passage and the choice of line are critical;<\/li>\n<li><strong>avalanches;<\/strong> these depend on precipitation, wind, temperature and terrain;<\/li>\n<li><strong>crevasses;<\/strong> covered snow bridges call for roped travel and discipline;<\/li>\n<li><strong>thunderstorms and bad weather;<\/strong> on ridges and walls a fast retreat may be impossible;<\/li>\n<li><strong>mistakes on the descent;<\/strong> fatigue and loss of attention after the summit;<\/li>\n<li><strong>altitude;<\/strong> slowing down, dehydration, poor sleep and altitude sickness;<\/li>\n<li><strong>the border regime;<\/strong> lawful access and documents are checked in advance.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The route is chosen according to the current conditions and the level of the team. \u201cClassic\u201d does not mean safe in any weather. The leader must have a turnaround plan, a cut-off time and a margin for the descent.<\/p>\n<p>The insurance policy has to be checked against the type of activity, the grade of the route, the altitude, the area, search and rescue work and evacuation. Ordinary travel insurance often excludes mountaineering.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"mistakes\">Typical mistakes on the way to the six stars<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Starting from the list rather than from your skills.<\/strong> The wish to pick a first star is understandable, but you first have to identify your weak points: rock, ice, speed, altitude, route-finding or camp routine. A preparatory route is often more useful than an early attempt.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Treating a route with a guide as guaranteed.<\/strong> A guide organises the belaying and the decisions, but cannot move for you, cancel rockfall or restore form you have lost. A client is required to be properly prepared.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Underestimating the descent.<\/strong> On a long mountain the summit may be reached with the barest margin of strength. Technical mistakes after the objective are especially dangerous, so the pace is planned to the point of return, not only to the high point.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Learning new actions on the route.<\/strong> The ascender, abseiling, anchors and crampons must be familiar beforehand. At high altitude and in bad weather instructions sink in less well and the cost of a mistake is higher.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Trying to close several stars in one short holiday.<\/strong> The weather and your recovery do not obey a list. A second attempt after a hard first summit may be less well prepared than a separate expedition.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Ignoring current conditions.<\/strong> An old report shows the general line but not the state of the ice, the rock and the crevasses today. Decisions are taken on fresh information.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Not allowing for both programmes.<\/strong> If a summit is to count towards both the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d and the \u201cSnow Leopard of Russia\u201d, the documents are checked before the start. Lost verification is harder to reconstruct than to obtain straight away.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"programme\">What Mountain Guide offers at present<\/h2>\n<p>Of the six official stars, we have a separate programme published for <a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/tours\/climbing\/dykh-tau\/\"><strong>Dykh-Tau<\/strong><\/a>. It is not a mass-market trip and not \u201cthe next tour after Elbrus\u201d: the decision on participation is taken once your CV has been assessed.<\/p>\n<p>Four programmes are available for preparation and for building related experience:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/tours\/climbing\/dykh-tau\/\"><strong>Dykh-Tau<\/strong><\/a> &#8211; the only current programme that directly closes one of the six stars.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/tours\/climb-elbrus\/elbrus-from-south-9-days\/\"><strong>Elbrus from the south<\/strong><\/a> &#8211; altitude, crampons and a long summit push.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/tours\/climbing\/kazbek-from-georgia-side\/\"><strong>Kazbek from the south<\/strong><\/a> &#8211; glacier experience from the Georgian side.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/tours\/climbing\/kazbek-from-north\/\"><strong>Kazbek from the north<\/strong><\/a> &#8211; a separate route from the Russian side.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Elbrus and Kazbek are not part of the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d and do not count in place of a missing summit. They are listed as possible preparatory steps. For Koshtan-Tau, Pushkin Peak, Jangi-Tau, Shkhara and Mizhirgi there are currently no up-to-date separate Mountain Guide pages.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/contacts\/\"><strong>Send your CV for an assessment of your readiness for Dykh-Tau<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n<h2 id=\"faq\">Frequently asked questions about the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d<\/h2>\n<h3>How many summits does the programme contain?<\/h3>\n<p>Six: Shkhara, Jangi-Tau, Mizhirgi, Dykh-Tau, Pushkin Peak and Koshtan-Tau.<\/p>\n<h3>Are the \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d and the \u201cCrown of Bezengi\u201d the same thing?<\/h3>\n<p>The name \u201cCrown of Bezengi\u201d is used inconsistently. This page deals with the official list of the Bezengi mountaineering camp &#8211; the \u201cSilver Stars of Bezengi\u201d, six five-thousanders.<\/p>\n<h3>Which summit is the highest?<\/h3>\n<p>Dykh-Tau &#8211; 5204 metres. It is also the second highest summit in Russia.<\/p>\n<h3>Can I start after Elbrus?<\/h3>\n<p>Elbrus alone is not enough for technical five-thousanders. It is useful as altitude experience, but you also need separate rock and ice preparation and routes of increasing difficulty.<\/p>\n<h3>Which star is the easiest?<\/h3>\n<p>There is no universal answer without a route and the conditions. Even the most accessible line remains a serious technical climb. The objective is chosen on the team&#8217;s CV.<\/p>\n<h3>Are all six part of the \u201cSnow Leopard of Russia\u201d?<\/h3>\n<p>Yes. The Russian programme additionally includes Elbrus, Kazbek, Klyuchevskaya Sopka and Belukha.<\/p>\n<h3>Can one summit count towards both programmes?<\/h3>\n<p>In principle one verified climb can belong to both lists, but the documents and the rules in force for each programme have to be checked in advance.<\/p>\n<h3>Do I need a formal mountaineering grade?<\/h3>\n<p>The formal requirements depend on the route, on the rules for signing a party off and on the group format. Even with commercial support, real technical preparation is essential.<\/p>\n<h3>How long does the whole project take?<\/h3>\n<p>There is no hard deadline. It is safer to spread the summits over several seasons and to do the necessary intermediate routes in between.<\/p>\n<h3>Does Mountain Guide have programmes for all six?<\/h3>\n<p>No. At present a programme is published for Dykh-Tau. The other summits appear in this guide as compulsory entries of the official series, but not as available products.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"useful\">Useful material and other classic projects<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Preparation:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/2024\/01\/08\/training-for-a-mount-kazbek-climb\/\">Preparing to climb Kazbek<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/2023\/12\/30\/mountaineering-gear-elbrus-to-everest\/\">Equipment for the big mountains<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/2026\/07\/27\/elbrus-climbing-insurance-checklist\/\">How to check insurance for mountaineering<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Other series:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/seven-summits\/\">The Seven Summits<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/snow-leopard-mountaineering-challenge\/\">Snow Leopard<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/snow-leopard-of-russia\/\">Snow Leopard of Russia<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/volcanic-seven-summits\/\">The Volcanic Seven Summits<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/fourteen-eight-thousanders\/\">The 14 eight-thousanders<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d is not a project for filling in a list quickly. Its strength is that every summit demands genuine mountaineering growth. The more honestly your starting CV is assessed, the more useful the first step will be and the better your chance of one day collecting all six.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/contacts\/\"><strong>Discuss preparing for the Bezengi summits<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The \u201cStars of Bezengi\u201d programme: Shkhara, Jangi-Tau, Mizhirgi, Dykh-Tau, Pushkin Peak and Koshtan-Tau. Difficulty, preparation and a plan for the climbs.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":14084,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-37148","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Stars of Bezengi: six five-thousanders explained<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Shkhara, Jangi-Tau, Mizhirgi, Dykh-Tau, Pushkin Peak and Koshtan-Tau: what each Bezengi five-thousander demands, how to prepare and how to plan the series.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.pro\/zh\/bezengi-stars\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"zh_CN\" \/>\n<meta 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