The next day held the climb of Cheget for us. To be honest, we did not get as far as the peak itself, because the border zone starts up there and you need a special permit to enter it. We came up just short. And in any case the summit was not our goal that day. The walking took quite a while, at times on a barely visible path. It was not easy, but we managed it. And once again those poles came to our rescue – a truly excellent piece of kit. Our reward was a fine lunch in a café with a view of the mountain.
We came down however each of us preferred: those who wanted to walked, while others decided to use the cable car. We had impressions to spare, as they say. What delighted us most was real, living snow in summer! You could even touch it. Quite something. What did we conclude from that day? Above all, that you need to train as much as you possibly can. And that the steadier you walk, the better. It is generally thought that walking slowly and evenly beats going fast in bursts.
On the fourth day an acclimatisation trip to four thousand one hundred metres was waiting for us. That is where the former Priyut-11 stood. The cable car was absolutely packed that day. As it turned out, a large number of tourists had been brought in. Everyone was desperate to touch the snow, and even more desperate to be photographed against it in swimwear. Curiously, I overheard a phone conversation in which a young woman was telling her friends that Elbrus had somehow not impressed her at all. It impressed me a great deal, though. And not just me – it impresses all of us. So up we went together to the Mir station, then on towards the Barrels and from there higher to the Shelter. Because of the crush, the wait really is a long one. A terrible squeeze, no room and hardly any movement. And you feel the lack of oxygen. Some members of the group start to feel unwell: their head begins to spin or to ache. There is one piece of advice here – breathe more often and as deeply as you can. It helps if you happen to have validol on you. Water does not go amiss either. Once we had climbed up to Mir, though, the walking became a little easier. We rested briefly at the Barrels themselves; the next day we would be moving up here. The rest did not last long and soon we were walking on. Here there is real snow, and the poles help to keep you upright. It is also worth noting that your boots must be treated with a waterproofing product, or else be membrane-lined. Otherwise your feet will be wet. As before, we walked unhurriedly. The sun really is very bright, so this is when sunglasses, lip balm and sun cream matter most. Ahead of us were the summits, the route markers and the tents of everyone camped above the Barrels. The walking is hard but bearable. It is important to breathe and not to make sudden movements. So we climb some three hundred metres and rest. You need to catch your breath and simply stop for a while. Coming down from above are all the people who went for the summit that day. Their faces are tired but very pleased. They managed it. We carry on up. Another hour or so and we are at the Shelter. We take in everything around us. We drink tea, eat dried apricots and simply enjoy the rest and the thought that there is nowhere else we have to go. We photograph all the beauty around us. How can you hold on to it so as to describe it to your family and friends in detail later? Only a camera can manage that, of course. So we quickly take our last shots and start down. As it turns out, going down is far harder. We slide happily through the slush of snow and water. Near the Barrels the going is easier, since the snow has gone completely. We carry on down towards the Mir station. A new trial was waiting for us there: the number of people wanting to go down exceeds the capacity of the line, so there is another crush. And the day visitors are hurrying to their coaches and getting very agitated. Somewhat worn out, we finally break free of that scrum and go down to Azau. We wait for everyone to gather. We had a late lunch there. The food is fairly tasty and filling, which was exactly what we needed. Then we all go back to the hotel and start checking our equipment. We top up what we are missing and have supper. The next day we have to move up to the Barrels. What can we conclude from this day? When there is no proper movement, or none at all, you should try to breathe as deeply as you can – deliberately, at least from time to time. It genuinely helps a great deal. As for equipment: if you have the chance to borrow something from a friend, take it without hesitation. Failing that, hire it. But if you are serious and plan to link your life with mountaineering in future, you can of course buy it. Just do not forget that climbing equipment is far from a cheap pleasure.
On the fifth day of our stay in the mountains we had to move up to the Barrels and make an acclimatisation trip to the Pastukhov Rocks at four thousand eight hundred metres. So we loaded our enormous rucksacks into the vehicles and set off for Azau, or rather for the cable car. Since it is less crowded today, we will be at the Barrels soon enough. We settle in, change and head out onto the route. Our goal is to reach the Pastukhov Rocks. The walking is long and hard. So up we go towards the upper limit. You feel the lack of oxygen, and your head starts to ache. Some people are nauseous and start being sick. And the question arose of how we were going to carry on if we already felt this bad. We rest briefly, come round and start back down. Today I am walking in plastic boots. There is a need to practise walking in them. There is one advantage: you can slide in them as if on skis, so the descent goes much faster. Once down, we decided to bathe in a stream. The water is cool, but after a climb it is pleasant all the same. Our foreign acquaintances also decided to try out what a Russian sauna is. They had plenty to talk about afterwards. At the Barrels themselves there was lunch and time to get used to the altitude. We had to drink tea constantly: it quenched our thirst and made our heads feel better. That night was more or less sleepless. Falling asleep was difficult, and the sleep itself was shallow and somehow fitful. Most likely it was the altitude.
So what can we conclude from that day? Sweet tea really is a very good thing – wonderful, in fact. And since the water we have to use is melted snow, the body reacts badly to it. So it is important to be ready for all sorts of surprises.
And so it was our sixth day in the mountains. The plan for the day was an ice-axe technique session and rest before the ascent itself. So we put on our crampons and the guide starts leading us to the nearest heap of snow. And that is where it all begins – entertainment for the onlookers and a lesson of sorts for us. One by one we all start sliding down the slope: on our backs head first, then on our fronts in much the same position. The task is to press the ice axe hard against yourself and, without letting it away from your body, dig in. And at the same time you have to try to stop the slide. I did not get it right straight away, though, and a couple of times I slid because I could not hold the axe against my chest. But as the saying goes, hard in training, easy in battle. Before long it started to come right, and I was flying off a good deal less far. Here is hoping this skill will not be needed on the climb. After the session we all rested as we should – an enhanced rest, not an ordinary one.