A winter ascent of Elbrus from the south

Interestingly enough, in the Kabardian language, Elbrus is called the mountain of happiness. Long ago Elbrus was a full-blown volcano, a real one in every sense. It became extinct long ago, however, and in doing so took on a cover of glaciers. And if you do decide to go up to the summit of this mountain, then you will reach not simply the highest summit in Russia, but also the highest summit in the whole of Europe. Elbrus stands on the border of Kabardino-Balkaria, and of Karachay-Cherkessia. Its height comes to five thousand six hundred and forty-two metres.
Make no mistake, the classic ascent of Elbrus in the winter season from the southern side is hard, far harder than the summer climbing programme. A climb like that is open to well-prepared people, who already have experience, climbing experience included. To take part in the programme it is not at all necessary to have mountaineering experience. A couple of words about preparation are in order. In general, whatever the route may be – the more demanding sort or, on the contrary, the less demanding sort, without preparation beforehand there is genuinely nothing to do in the mountains. And so, if you have made up your mind to go to the mountains, start preparing for the climb in good time, without fail. Preparation itself is usually divided into the physical and the psychological. Both the one and the other genuinely matter. But let us talk first about physical preparation. Even in that case, if you are not an athlete, or indeed if you have no connection at all with sport, or with any kind of day-to-day physical effort, you should still try yourself at mountaineering. Start with something small. Try running in the mornings. At the very start let the distances be short ones. Over time increase the distances, and within a couple of weeks you will surprise yourself, because running will have turned into just one thing – pure pleasure. It is important to grasp, though, that your running should not be fast, because in the mountains we shall after all be walking, and not running. Besides running, experienced mountaineers recommend, as preparation for the climb, taking the stairs to the upper floors of tower blocks. It really is excellent preparation for what altitude demands of the body. And be sure to increase the load each and every time. That is, put as many things in your rucksack as you can. It may be hard now, but later you will feel a great deal better for it. And feeling well in the mountains – that is the key to a successful climb. It is also important to be ready for the climb in the psychological sense. A positive frame of mind about the climb matters a good deal. You have to understand, clearly, that it will not be easy. If you genuinely want to prepare for it, try to feel it before you even set off for the mountains. The internet is there to help. So find some video reports, watch them and picture yourself there, in those same conditions. And be sure to read plenty of different accounts as well. As they say, be ready for the worst, but hope, all the same, for the best.
And so, if we talk specifically about the ascent from the southern side, you find one thing straight away, every one of the comforts of civilisation. On this particular route there are cable cars, more-or-less comfortable hotels, cafés, where there is the chance to eat tasty dishes of the local cuisine. And there is a superb view here of the Main Caucasus Range, which opens up from the slopes of mighty Mount Elbrus.
As a rule, the first part of the ascent of Elbrus is already aimed at two things, gaining good acclimatisation in the neighbouring gorge, and also mastering some very important mountaineering skills. Acclimatisation, along with the various technical training sessions, can take place in one of the most beautiful gorges in the whole Elbrus region – Kurmychi. When choosing a programme for a winter ascent of Elbrus by the southern route, give preference to the longer ones. In that case you will come away with good acclimatisation and nothing but positive feelings. Also, if you wish, then you will be able to find an excellent ski programme.
It is notable, though, that the climbing programme starts and, indeed, finishes in Mineralnye Vody. To acclimatise the group, a plan is drawn up for gradual (smooth) stepped acclimatisation, that is, adaptation to  the new mountain conditions.
During the more active part of the acclimatisation programme the whole group lives in tents. During the ascent itself, the night is spent in one of the huts. As for transport, on this route there is a minibus «Gazelle», or something-or-other of the same sort. Meals during the acclimatisation period are as a rule twice a day.
Sometimes, if you say so far enough in advance, you can stay on after the climb and even extend the ski programme. Or, as an option, you can add visits to various places of interest to the programme.
In that event, if conditions arise that threaten the safety of all the group’s members, then the guide will have every right to take the decision to bring the whole group back down. And once the instructor has taken that decision, nobody should argue about it at all. One point is important, and it is this: the programme genuinely is unsafe for the health and life of every climber. The guides, however, will certainly be able to provide the necessary safety on one condition, that you follow the safety rules to the letter. The group is often equipped with special radios, and with navigation equipment and, of course, a first-aid kit. It is also important to have your own set of medicines, for the conditions that are yours alone, and for any chronic ones. Immediately before the climb the group must without fail register with the local rescue service.One more thing, the tour programme may well change depending on the weather, and on the state of the participants and other circumstances.
Often the group meets the guides in Mineralnye Vody on the first day of the programme, before lunch. So it is better to arrive as early as you can. Say, before twelve o’clock. You can book your return ticket for the last day on the schedule, after five in the evening.
So, if your mind is made up, and you want to climb to the summit of Elbrus from the southern side, and in the winter season at that, do not delay, but right now take the first steps towards making your dream real. Be assured, you will certainly manage it.