An event as significant as this one has to be prepared for. The body needs to get used to the load, and every means is a good one — running, skipping, whatever you like. You will appreciate that preparatory work later. But let us take it in order.
The very beginning: meeting at Mineralnye Vody airport
I decided to fly into Pyatigorsk a day earlier than planned. Towards the evening of the first day another member of the group arrived, and I went out to the airport to meet him. It should be said that climbers are usually collected by a single vehicle, which picks everybody up. But everybody arrives at a different time, so it is worth preparing yourself for a long wait. A good book, a newspaper or some music will help pass it. And if simply sitting is not your thing, you can arrange an adventure for yourself — and not just any adventure, but one that does you some good. A minibus runs from the airport to Pyatigorsk. Once you are in the town you can climb Mashuk, which is 993 metres high; that makes a decent workout. There is a charming view of the town from the hill. The way to the top is hard to call difficult — a tarmac path leads up it, hidden among the trees. You will be staying in Terskol, which is 4 hours from Mineralnye Vody. It is excellent if the journey falls in daylight, because the views from the bus window are mesmerising. And the closer you get to Terskol, the more magical the landscape around you. After you arrive everything runs along the usual groove: people unpack their things and get to know one another. I would not advise going looking for adventures — do not forget that you are at two kilometres, which is stress enough for your body. The right decision is to remember that you are on holiday and simply enjoy it.
Acclimatisation. The walk to the Maiden’s Plaits waterfall
When you get up in the morning you will be delighted by the view from the window: mountains, mist and a rising sun, all of it mesmerising. We set out after breakfast. Ask your guide what to wear. The best choice is a shirt, since you will not burn in one, and the sun, incidentally, may not even be visible in the sky. The other thing you must take is trekking poles. I did not take any at first, because I did not know how to walk with them, but I then picked some up at a hire shop we passed. Now I can easily choose what I need. The next stage is learning. The guide set the walking pace, and it seemed to me that we were crawling like snails. But some time went by and breathing became hard — and then I understood that this was the right pace. On the way up we walked into a cloud. That is something you never forget. You walk, and nothing is visible around you except the path ahead, which opens up for a couple of metres at a time. Then the wind drove the veil away and we saw real beauty: the Maiden’s Plaits waterfall. We barely had time for a couple of photographs before the cloud closed everything in again. On a walk like this you have to be ready for anything: cloud rolls in constantly, and disappears just as suddenly. Once we had got closer to the waterfall we stopped for a break, and then walked back down. The cloud had gone and we were able to admire the beauty of the country around us. New members of the group arrive today. As for me, I drew a conclusion: poles are essential, both going up and coming down. When I was getting ready for Elbrus I did not know much, and I did not really train. I was briefed in some detail, though, so Validol was always with me, just in case. You also need water, in small bottles so that it is not heavy to carry. It was hard at first. First, there is the climbing; second, once we had gained a certain height the shortage of oxygen began to tell. For an untrained body that is difficult, particularly when you are not used to it. As you walk you try to fall into step with your companions, which makes it easier. The poles help too. There is ice and snow all around, and slipping and «diving» into a gully is the easiest thing in the world, so the poles get you out of trouble. They also help you stay upright if you suddenly start falling asleep… The movements are monotonous, so at some point you catch yourself thinking that your eyes are closing… And then at last we reached Mir. Things eased off at once here. I had got used to it, probably. I forgot to mention that going up Elbrus needs special boots. Do not assume there is nothing here but snow and frost. The snow melts in the sun, so bad boots are the end of a climber. Do not forget to treat them as thoroughly as you can. There is a lot of water in the sun, and wet feet have never done anyone’s health any good. There are several huts here — something like walkers’ hotels — where you can catch your breath and have something to eat. Exotic, in a word. We passed one such hut and looked at the snowdrift they use as a fridge. You will not find a wonder like that in our latitudes. Besides the special boots, the things that save you are sun cream with a high UV factor, dark glasses and colourless lip balm. Do not laugh: in sun like that the thin skin of unprotected lips quickly chaps and blisters.
And now a few recommendations for beginners:
- Your instructor will tell you everything. At altitude you will walk about 300 metres at a time and then stop.
- During the stop you calmly get your breathing back, without sudden movements. Do not hold your breath.
- Going down is, oddly enough, harder than going up. So use your poles actively, and keep an eye on your companions.
- When you stop for a rest, drink the tea if it is offered. Always keep a handful of nuts, dried apricots and raisins with you. They are tasty, filling and nourishing, and they take up almost no space.
- You can bring all the equipment with you, or you can again arrange with your future instructor for him to book everything on the spot.
Elbrus won me over with its untouched beauty. The huts we came across along the route do not spoil the view in the slightest. Everyone we met on the way up was coming down so pleased with their own «feats» that it became funny… Was I really going to come back looking like that? As it turned out, yes: it is the body’s natural state. Getting up Elbrus, even to a modest height, is a feat. I will come here again. Impressions I will never forget!
Day 3. Climbing the Cheget peak
To tell the truth, we never did reach the peak. The reason is that a border zone lies up there, and you can only enter it with a special permit. Failing that, you should have a thousand roubles in your pocket for the fine. And there was so little left to go. The summit was not really the point, though. There was a lot of walking to do. At times the path was almost invisible. Hard as it was, we managed it, and the poles helped us there as well. Our deserved reward did not keep us waiting either: a comfortable café with a magnificent view of Elbrus left nobody unmoved. Coming down, everyone did as they liked. Some chose the cable car and some walked. All the trekkers had a great deal to take in — the first snow of the summer, for instance. You can touch it or simply admire it. Even the problem of the Chinese member of the party with no luggage was solved quickly and simply: the hire shop found him everything he needed. Everyone was delighted with the work of our guide, who managed to put a full set of kit together from the hire shops. After a climb like that the conclusion came by itself: train, and train again, and do as much of it as you can. It is also worth remembering a simple truth — the steadier you walk, the easier it is for you. It is better to walk slowly and evenly than fast and in bursts.
Day 4. Azau (2200m) – Stary Krugozor (2950) – Mir (3500).
Today we have an acclimatisation walk to more than four thousand metres. The former Priyut 11 stands up there. This day is a particularly hard one. It is the seventh day of the week, Sunday. The cable car is especially popular today: visitors have come here from the various sanatoria. Every one of them dreams of touching the snow and being photographed against it — and the photograph has to be in a swimming costume. I happened to overhear one telephone conversation: «I’m looking at Elbrus right now. On the way here I thought I’d see something very big, but it’s nothing special, just ordinary mountains.» Very interesting. We, on the other hand, are hugely impressed. In that excellent mood we go up to Mir, and then under our own steam to the Barrels at Garabashi. Having reached our destination, we climb higher still, up to Priyut 11. Because of the crowd we spend a long time waiting our turn at Stary Krugozor. There is very little movement, a terrible crush, no room. You can already feel the shortage of oxygen. Because nothing is moving, there is a shortage of oxygen and some people even start to feel unwell. One is dizzy, another has a headache. What can you advise in a case like this? Breathe deeper, of course, and as often as you can.
Day 5. Moving up to the Barrels. Acclimatisation walk to the Pastukhov Rocks (4800 m)
Taking everything essential with us, we get into the car and set off for the cable car to Azau. Since it is quiet today, we reach the Barrels quickly. Once we have settled in, the whole team sets off on the route. Our goal is to get to the Pastukhov Rocks as fast as we can. Our way is long and hard as well. We managed to climb to the upper edge. Everyone is short of oxygen and has a headache. Some feel really bad. And then we all ask ourselves the same question: what will happen next, if going up is this hard already? After a short rest we go back down. This time my footwear is plastic boots. Walking in them takes practice. They have one advantage: in boots like these you can slide as if you were on skis. As soon as we were down we bathed in a stream. The water here is meltwater and, of course, quite cold. But after a climb it is a pleasure all the same. Even our foreign companions came to love our «Russian sauna». Everyone has a mass of impressions. At the Barrels we have lunch and get used to the height. We drink tea often. Why is clear enough: you are thirsty, and your head feels better for it. Every night is more or less sleepless. It is very hard to fall asleep, and if you manage it the sleep is usually shallow and somehow anxious. The reason is the altitude. Our foreign friends are genuinely shocked by their first meeting with the local privy. Why is it all so terrible? We draw our conclusions at the end of the day. What really is good is sweet tea. Melted snow is used here instead of water, and the body reacts strongly to it. The main rule is to be ready for surprises.
Day 6. Ice-axe technique practice and rest before the climb.
Today we are resting. Even on a day off, though, we have a short session on using the ice axe. We all have to put crampons on. After that the guide leads us to the nearest heap of snow — a proper jump for snowboarders. That is exactly where it all happens. What is training for us is genuine entertainment for everyone around. One by one we try to slide down the slope. It happens in an amusing way: head first on your back, or on your front in the same position. The task set for each of us is to hold the axe tight against you and not let it come away. The final goal is to bite in and stop the slide. Since I sometimes forgot to hold the axe against my chest, there were several times when I slid a long way. Now and then it hurt. But as they say, the harder the training, the easier the battle. A little later it started to work, and if I did fly off it was not so far. I hope the skill will not be needed on the climb. When the session ended came proper rest, as it should. We talk, and talk, and talk again. And we go to bed early. We have to set out early in the morning. That night, too, sleep was hard to come by and it was restless. And how hard it was to get up in the morning…
We draw our conclusions at the end of the day:
- If you have managed to arrest yourself, be sure to arrest your companion too. Learning to use an ice axe is everyone’s duty.
- Every self-respecting person should learn English. More than half of our group were foreigners, so understanding at least the gist of what a foreign companion is saying matters a great deal. Beyond that, you learn a lot that is new, not only about yourself but about other people too.