The West summit of Elbrus is the higher of the two. It stands at 5642 m, while the East summit reaches 5621 m. The difference is 21 m. The West summit is therefore the high point of the massif, of Russia and of Europe under the geographical model adopted for the Seven Summits.
Two summits, not two points side by side
Elbrus is a twin-peaked volcanic massif. A saddle lies between the summits, so crossing from one to the other means losing height, covering a stretch at altitude and climbing again. Against the background of a long summit day, those extra metres change the workload considerably.
Where the main routes lead
Classic programmes from the south are more often aimed at the West summit. From the northern and eastern sides there are lines to the East summit, to the West summit or traverse variants; the actual goal has to be read in the specific programme rather than guessed from the side you start on. Route conditions and the guide’s decision can also change the plan.
Can you climb both summits
Yes, but that is a separate programme, not a small add-on to an ordinary ascent. You need to keep enough in reserve after the first summit, cross the saddle and stay inside a safe turnaround time. Such a plan calls for strong acclimatisation and settled weather, and whether you continue is judged on the mountain itself.
How to choose your goal
If the high point is what matters, choose a programme to the West summit. If you are drawn to the history of the first ascent or to a route from another side, the East summit stands on its own merits. Climbing both suits people for whom the extra height and extra hours are a deliberate objective, rather than a way of ticking two boxes.
Why the answer does not end with a number
For general knowledge, 5642 and 5621 m is all you need. To choose a trip you also have to check which summit the route leads to, whether a crossing of the saddle is included and where the summit day ends. The word «Elbrus» on a programme card does not always reveal those differences.
Next: the two-summit programme · the Elbrus traverse · a comparison of the routes.
Source: the Russian Geographical Society.