Climb Island Peak and Mera Peak — 24-Day Two-Summit Expedition

This expedition joins two different parts of the Khumbu region. The first half follows the classic valley to Namche Bazaar, Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar, then turns through Chhukhung to Island Peak. After that climb the group does not return by the usual trail: it crosses the high Amphu Laptsa pass towards the Hinku valley and Mera Peak.

The combination uses acclimatisation already gained: before Island Peak participants sleep above 5000 m and climb Kala Patthar, and they reach Mera Peak after the first summit and a pass of 5850 m. That saves a separate trip, but it increases the total load. There is no full recovery at low altitude between the two attempts, so each participant’s condition is assessed again.

Island Peak involves more pronounced technical work on the ice section. Mera Peak is higher and makes serious demands on endurance and on performance at altitude. The Amphu Laptsa adds a demanding stage of its own between the summits. The guide decides the line, the method of protection and the acceptable turnaround time according to the current state of the terrain.

The expedition suits climbers who have already been above 5000 m and are confident with crampons, ice axe, harness, ascender and descender. Without those skills it is more sensible to choose a single summit first.

The sequence of high-altitude nights, the two reserve days and the work of the assistant guides reduce the manageable risks, but they give no guarantee. Altitude, cold, the state of the glaciers and accumulated fatigue remain the decisive factors. Before the trip, study the prevention of altitude illness and the principles of high-altitude acclimatisation, so that you understand the purpose of the intermediate excursions and why the guide may change the tactics.

A Mountain Guide expedition leader accompanies groups of 4 participants or more. For a group of up to 3 participants a Nepalese guide works with the team. On summit days the number of assistants is calculated at no more than three participants per guide.

Day 1. Arrival in Kathmandu.

Participants fly to Kathmandu independently, where a member of the team meets them and takes them to the hotel. After checking in there is an introduction, a check of technical equipment, distribution of baggage and a briefing on the 24-day route. Anything unsuitable must be replaced before departure. In the evening there is dinner at a Nepalese restaurant. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Drive to Ramechhap, flight to Lukla, 2860 m, and walk to Phakding, 2610 m.

The group leaves for Ramechhap airport on the confirmed schedule and flies to Lukla. After collecting the baggage there is an easy walk through the villages and farms of the Dudh Koshi valley to Phakding. A first night below Lukla lets the acclimatisation begin without an unnecessary gain in altitude. Night in a lodge.

Day 3. Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3440 m.

The trail crosses the Dudh Koshi on suspension bridges, passes through Monjo and the Sagarmatha National Park and, beyond Jorsalle, climbs to Namche Bazaar. This is the first serious high-altitude load. The guide watches the pace, the drinking regime and how each participant is feeling. Night in a lodge.

Day 4. Acclimatisation in Namche Bazaar, 3440 m.

The group spends a second night at the same altitude and makes an acclimatisation walk with a return to camp. The exact route is decided by the weather and the condition of the team. The purpose of the day is to adapt before the stages above 3900 m and to identify each individual’s reaction to altitude early. Night in a lodge.

Day 5. Walk to Pangboche, 3928 m.

The stage takes about 5–6 hours and alternates between descents and climbs. As you go, views of Ama Dablam open up. On arrival participants rest and prepare for the next night above 4200 m. Night in a lodge.

Day 6. Walk to Pheriche, 4240 m.

The route comes out into more open high-mountain terrain and in places runs above gorges and torrents. The group moves without forcing the pace. In the evening the guide assesses the participants’ condition and confirms the arrangements for reaching the moraine of the Khumbu glacier. Night in a lodge.

Day 7. Walk to Lobuche, 4940 m.

Participants climb onto the plateau and approach the moraine of the Khumbu glacier. At this altitude recovery slows down, so rest, fluid intake and preparing warm clothing matter on arrival. The day creates the necessary step before a night above 5100 m. Night in a lodge.

Day 8. Gorak Shep, 5164 m, and Everest Base Camp, 5364 m.

After the walk to Gorak Shep the group settles in and continues to Everest Base Camp. The rocky path along the glacier requires energy in reserve for the way back. The guide may shorten the excursion because of the weather or the participants’ condition. Return to Gorak Shep. Night in a lodge.

Day 9. Kala Patthar, 5645 m, and descent to Dingboche.

An early climb up Kala Patthar serves as a viewpoint excursion and a check of high-altitude readiness before Island Peak. After returning to Gorak Shep the group descends to Dingboche. Losing altitude helps recovery, but the long day requires an even distribution of effort. Night in a lodge.

Day 10. Walk from Dingboche to Chhukhung.

The group turns into the Imja valley and walks to Chhukhung. This stage brings participants closer to Island Peak and gives time to recover after Kala Patthar. In the evening the guide checks the technical kit again and explains the procedure for moving up to the high camp. Night in a lodge.

Day 11. Climb to the Island Peak high camp.

A stage of about 5–6 hours crosses rocky high-mountain terrain. Once the tents are up, participants prepare crampons, harness, ice axe, ascender, headtorch and clothing for the night start. The guide assigns the rope teams and announces the wake-up time. Night in tents.

Day 12. Ascent of Island Peak, 6165 m, and descent to Chhukhung.

The start is in the middle of the night. The climb takes roughly 6–7 hours and includes a snow and ice section. From the point reached, the group descends to camp in about 3–4 hours, rests and continues to Chhukhung. Clearance for the summit and the turnaround time are set by the lead guide. Night in a lodge.

Day 13. Reserve day for Island Peak.

The day is kept in case of poor weather, a change in the condition of the ice section or a postponed attempt. If the reserve is not used, participants recover in Chhukhung and prepare their equipment for the self-contained crossing of the Amphu Laptsa. The lead guide decides the tactics from there. Night in a lodge.

Day 14. Walk to the camp below the Amphu Laptsa pass.

The group leaves the inhabited valley for a high camp below the pass. The way runs among glaciers and rocky terrain. Once the tents are up the team prepares ropes and personal equipment, and participants rest before an early technical stage. Night in tents.

Day 15. The Amphu Laptsa pass, 5850 m.

An early start is needed to cross this difficult snow and ice pass in the best available conditions of the day. The group acts on the guides’ instructions and uses technical equipment on the sections where it is required. Beyond the high point the descent to the next camp begins. How long it takes and how the party is protected depend on the actual state of the route. Night in tents.

Day 16. Walk to Kongme Dingma.

After the pass the group continues across remote rocky terrain to Kongme Dingma. The trail is faint in places, so participants keep to the group’s pace and stay with the team. The day is used to reduce the load after the pass and to prepare for the approach to Mera Peak. Night in a refuge.

Day 17. Walk to the Mera Peak camp.

The group climbs over snow and rocky ground to the base or high camp of Mera Peak. Which camp is used is chosen by the team according to the state of the route and the readiness of the participants. After settling in there is rest, food and the final preparation for the night start. Night in tents.

Day 18. Ascent of Mera Peak, 6476 m, and descent to Khare.

The start is in the middle of the night. The climb over ice and snow terrain takes roughly 6–8 hours. After a short stop at the point reached, the group descends to camp in about 3–4 hours and then continues to Khare. This is the second high point of the expedition and one of its hardest days. Night in a lodge.

Day 19. Reserve day for Mera Peak.

The day is used if the attempt has to be moved, if there is a delay on the approach or if extra recovery is needed. Whether a second departure is possible is assessed by the lead guide, taking the weather and the team’s resources into account. If the reserve is not needed, participants rest in Khare. Night in a lodge.

Day 20. Descent to Kote.

The group begins a long loss of altitude through the Hinku valley. The air becomes richer, but after two summits and a pass the accumulated fatigue is still high. On the descent it is important to stay attentive and not to accelerate on the uneven trail. Night in a lodge.

Day 21. Descent to Thuli Kharka.

The route continues through alpine meadows and the forest zone. The day returns participants to milder conditions and is used for recovery before the final stage. In the evening the guide checks the weather and the flight information. Night in a lodge.

Day 22. Walk to Lukla.

The final walking stage brings the group to Lukla. After checking in, the team prepares the baggage for the flight and confirms the departure time. In the evening there is a group dinner to mark the end of the expedition. Night in a lodge.

Day 23. Flight to Ramechhap and return to Kathmandu.

In suitable weather the group flies from Lukla to Ramechhap and returns to Kathmandu by transfer. The arrival time depends on how the mountain airport is operating. After checking into the hotel, participants rest and prepare for the international flight. Night in a hotel.

Day 24. End of the programme.

After breakfast there is a transfer to the international airport. Participants check in themselves. Choose return tickets with the weather risk at Lukla and the reserves built into the programme in mind.

• Mountain Guide expedition leader for groups of 4 participants or more
• A Nepalese mountain guide for groups of up to 3 participants
• Assistant guides on summit days — no more than 3 participants per guide
• Meeting and seeing off at Kathmandu airport
• Accommodation in a 4-star hotel in Kathmandu — 2 nights
• Accommodation in lodges and confirmed refuges on the trek
• Accommodation and meals in tents on the high-altitude stages
• Group equipment — high-altitude tents, gas, stoves and ropes
• Porters for the group equipment and the tented-camp supplies
• A soft duffel bag for personal belongings — provided on arrival
• Climbing permits for Island Peak and Mera Peak
• The permits and entry fees required for the confirmed route
• The mandatory rubbish fee

• International flights
• Domestic flights Ramechhap – Lukla – Ramechhap
• Transfers Kathmandu – Ramechhap airport – Kathmandu
• The Nepal visa — a 30-day visa covers the length of the programme; the fee is set by the Nepalese authorities and paid by the participant
• Personal climbing and trekking equipment
• Mountaineering medical insurance covering climbing to an altitude of at least 6476 m, rescue operations and helicopter evacuation
• Single occupancy
• Early check-in, late check-out and additional nights
• Lodge meals during the trek — USD 30–50 a day
• A personal porter, at the rate confirmed in the written quotation including transport. In a trekking group one porter may carry the belongings of two participants
• Tips for the local team
• Costs arising from ending your participation early
• Additional costs caused by delays, the weather or forced changes to the programme

Documentation:

• international passport
• Airplane tickets
• Medical insurance covering helicopter evacuation

Personal equipment:

• Backpack 60l.
• Sleeping bag, comfort temperature from -20°C to -30°C.
• Mat
• Trekking poles
• Cats of steel
• Ice axe with self-insurance
• climbing system
• Helmet
• Carabiners – 3 pcs.
• Lanyard mustache
• Zhumar
• descender
• Mug-spoon-bowl

Clothes and shoes:

• Climbing boots triple or double. Double – plastic or leather
• Trekking boots are WELL impregnated in advance with a special anti-water agent
• Sneakers (for the city)
• Waterproof membrane layer – jacket + trousers
• fleece suit
• Thermal underwear top+bottom
• Middle class puff
• Warm mittens
• Gloves are thick
• Thin gloves
• Bandana or buff (in addition to protection from the Sun in the valley, it can be used to warm the throat or face in the cold)
• Cap
• Warm trekking socks for climbing day
• Windproof mask for the lower part of the face

Travel Accessories:

• LED flashlight for head
• Powerbank
• Sunglasses
• Raincoat
• Rain cover for backpack
• Ski goggles
• Thermos – 1l. Preferably without a button in the lid
• Sunblock spf 50
• lip balm spf 10-15
• Leggings
• Chemical heating pads (not required, but can be very helpful)
• Personal medical kit
• Elastic bandage and/or support bandage
• Toothpaste, brush, soap, shampoo, slippers
• Towel
• Toilet paper (sold in loggias along the way)