Climb Mount Vinson, 15-Day Antarctic Expedition

The Vinson Massif lies in the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains in West Antarctica. Its highest point, Mount Vinson at 4892 m, is the highest summit on the continent and one of the Seven Summits. The defining feature of the expedition is the combination of altitude, Antarctic cold, self-supported teamwork and complete dependence on polar aviation and weather windows.

The Antarctic part of the programme is prepared and run with an international team that has more than 30 successful Vinson expeditions since 2009 behind it. A standard group has no more than four participants to one international guide. A Mountain Guide team leader accompanies the team in addition and helps participants at every stage of the programme.

The climb begins in Punta Arenas. After the equipment check and the compulsory pre-flight briefing the team flies by charter across the Drake Passage to Union Glacier camp. The flight takes about four hours. Participants normally spend one or two nights here before flying on to Vinson Base Camp in a Twin Otter. That flight takes about 45 minutes, but the departure time is always set by the actual weather.

The route follows the Branscomb Glacier and takes in base camp, Camp 1 and Camp 2. Moves alternate with rest days and technical preparation. After the climb to Camp 1 the team recovers and repeats its work on fixed ropes. After the move to Camp 2 there is a rest day before the summit attempt. This sequence helps the team adapt to altitude and to the accumulated load without pushing the programme unnecessarily fast.

The expedition runs in a self-supported team format. On the gentler glacier sections participants move roped up, haul sleds carrying part of the personal and group equipment and carry rucksacks. Under the guides’ direction the team shares out loads, pitches and strikes tents, organises the camps, melts snow for water and helps prepare meals. Readiness for this work is a compulsory part of the Vinson climb.

Between Camp 1 and Camp 2 the route follows a long, steep snow and ice slope equipped with fixed ropes. Above the ropes the team continues over the gentler upper glacier plateau and establishes the high camp. The summit day goes up glacier slopes and a final ridge, by which participants reach the highest point in Antarctica. After the ascent the team returns to Camp 2.

Before the mountain part begins, the guides go over roped travel, ice-axe self-arrest and what to do if someone falls into a crevasse. Participation requires experience of climbing and living in cold conditions, confident use of crampons, ice axe and ascender, roped glacier travel skills and readiness to work for long periods with a rucksack of about 18 kg. The programme is not suitable for beginners without the corresponding mountaineering experience.

Flights to Antarctica, flights between Union Glacier and Vinson Base Camp and the return flights are made only in suitable weather. The wait can last several days, and on some expeditions aviation delays have exceeded a week. Reserve days reduce the risk of missing the return flight, but they do not make an exact return date possible to guarantee.

During the climb the team sends regular messages from the route. Where possible, Mountain Guide publishes photographs, short text and audio messages, and news of moves between camps, expected weather, the summit attempt and the team’s return. How often messages appear depends on the quality of communications and on current safety priorities. After the programme ends, the material is kept in the expedition archive.

Camp altitudes are approximate: the exact position of tents and landing areas can change slightly with the condition of the glacier and the decisions of the Antarctic operator.

Day 1. Arrival in Punta Arenas. An expedition representative meets participants at the airport and arranges the transfer to the hotel. After check-in there is a full check of personal equipment and a meeting with the guides. In the evening the group gathers for dinner together. Accommodation and meals in Punta Arenas are paid separately. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Preparation for the flight to Antarctica. Participants attend the compulsory pre-flight briefing given by the Antarctic air operator. It covers expedition logistics, safety rules, baggage limits and the particular features of the flight. Expedition duffel bags are handed over for checking, weighing and loading. The rest of the day is free. Night in a hotel.

Day 3. Flight to Antarctica and arrival at Union Glacier, about 700 m. Weather permitting, the group flies out of Punta Arenas on a charter jet. The flight across the Drake Passage takes about four hours and ends with a landing on the ice runway beside Union Glacier camp. The team normally spends one or two nights here before flying on. Night at Union Glacier camp.

Day 4. Technical training on the glacier at Union Glacier, about 700 m. The guides run practical sessions on roped glacier travel, ice-axe self-arrest and what to do if a member of the team falls into a crevasse. The day also allows recovery after the flight and preparation for safe work on the glaciers of the Vinson Massif. Night at Union Glacier camp.

Day 5. Flight to Vinson Base Camp, about 2100 m. In favourable weather the group flies to Vinson Base Camp on a Twin Otter aircraft. The flight takes about 45 minutes. On arrival participants pitch tents, distribute personal and group equipment and prepare sleds and harnesses for the move to Camp 1. Night at base camp.

Day 6. Move to Camp 1 (Low Camp), about 2780 m. The team begins the climb and moves roped up along the Branscomb Glacier. Participants haul sleds carrying part of the personal and group equipment and also carry rucksacks. On arrival the team pitches tents, organises the camp, melts snow for water and prepares meals. This move opens the main mountain part of the programme and gives the first sustained load at altitude. Night at Camp 1.

Day 7. Rest at Camp 1, about 2780 m, and preparation for the fixed ropes. The day is set aside for recovery after the move and for additional technical preparation. The guides go over the rules for ascending and descending fixed ropes with the participants. The team checks personal equipment and prepares the loads for the next stage of the route. Night at Camp 1.

Day 8. Move to Camp 2 (High Camp), about 3780 m. The team climbs a steep snow and ice slope using fixed ropes. Above the roped section the route reaches the gentler upper glacier plateau and continues to Camp 2. Participants pitch tents, set up the high camp and prepare water and meals. The summit attempt will be made from this camp. Night at Camp 2.

Day 9. Rest at Camp 2, about 3780 m, before the summit attempt. Participants recover after the climb and prepare their personal equipment for the summit day. The guides review the weather forecast, the condition of the route and the state of the team, and then decide when the ascent should begin. Night at Camp 2.

Day 10. Ascent of Vinson, 4892 m. The team climbs the glacier slopes to the summit ridge, follows it and reaches the highest point in Antarctica. After the ascent participants return to Camp 2. The duration and the start time depend on the weather, the condition of the route and the pace of the team. Night at Camp 2.

Day 11. Descent to base camp, about 2100 m. The team strikes the high camp, descends the fixed ropes and continues through Camp 1 to Vinson Base Camp. After the long descent participants rest, sort out equipment and prepare for the return flight. Night at base camp.

Day 12. Return to Union Glacier, about 700 m. Weather permitting, the group flies from Vinson Base Camp to Union Glacier camp. The departure time depends on visibility, wind and the state of the landing areas. On arrival participants settle into the camp and wait for confirmation of the return flight to Chile. Night at Union Glacier camp.

Day 13. Flight to Punta Arenas. In favourable weather the group flies out of Antarctica to Punta Arenas. On arrival participants check into the hotel and rest after the expedition. Accommodation and meals in Punta Arenas are paid separately. Night in a hotel.

Day 14. Free day in Punta Arenas. The day is for rest, walking around the city and preparing for the journey home. Night in a hotel.

Day 15. End of the programme. Participants check out of the hotel and travel to the airport for the flight home.

Days 16-21. Reserve for delays. Reserve days are provided in case of poor weather, changes to the climbing schedule and rescheduled Antarctic flights. The actual sequence of moves and flights may change at the decision of the expedition leader, taking account of the weather, the condition of the route, the aviation situation and the state of the participants. Even with reserve days the exact return date cannot be guaranteed. On some past expeditions the wait for aircraft exceeded a week. We recommend buying a changeable return ticket departing about five days after the planned end of the programme, and not committing to important obligations immediately after your return.

• Meeting at Punta Arenas airport and transfer to the hotel on Day 1
• An experienced Mountain Guide team leader accompanying the group
• An experienced international expedition guide
• Expedition guiding at no more than four participants to one expedition guide
• Charter flights from Punta Arenas to Antarctica and back
• All internal Antarctic flights to Vinson Base Camp and back
• Accommodation and expedition services throughout the stay in Antarctica
• Meals throughout the Antarctic part of the programme
• Group expedition equipment – tents, ropes and kitchen equipment
• Team communications – VHF radios and a satellite phone
• A daily specialist weather forecast during the climb

• International and domestic flights to Punta Arenas and back
• Accommodation and meals in Punta Arenas
• Visas and transit permissions where these are required by nationality and flight routing
• Personal equipment, clothing, sleeping bag and other items from the compulsory kit list
• A waterproof, hard-wearing 150 l expedition duffel bag for the sled
• Medical and evacuation insurance – compulsory for participation
• Trip cancellation insurance – strongly recommended
• Bank transfer fees where these apply
• Additional costs arising from weather or aviation delays or from other circumstances beyond the organisers’ control
• Personal expenses and services not expressly listed under what is included

Documentos:

• Passaporte internacional
• Passagens aéreas
• Seguro médico

Equipamento pessoal:

• Mochila 70–80 litros
• Saco de dormir com temperatura de conforto até -30°C
• Isolante térmico
• Bastões de trekking obrigatoriamente com anéis de pelo menos 70 mm
• Crampons de aço
• Piolet clássico com lâmina de aço ou ferramenta de gelo
• Cadeirinha de escalada
• Mosquetões – 5 unidades
• 2 fitas de segurança (auto-seguro)
• Jumar
• Parafuso de gelo com mosquetão separado
• Dispositivo de descida
• Caneca, colher e tigela
• 5 metros de cordim 5–6 mm

Roupa e calçado:

• Botas de montanhismo triplas
• Tênis (para uso na cidade)
• Camada impermeável: jaqueta e calças (membrana 5000/5000 ou Gore-Tex)
• Conjunto de fleece
• Roupa térmica (camada superior e inferior)
• Jaqueta de plumas grossa com capuz
• Mitones quentes
• Mitones extras
• Luvas grossas
• Luvas finas
• Bandana
• Gorro quente
• Meias de trekking quentes para o dia de cume

Diversos:

• Lanterna de cabeça com autonomia mínima de 12 horas
• Óculos de sol
• Máscara de esqui / goggles
• Garrafa térmica 1 litro (preferencialmente sem botão)
• Máscara corta-vento para a parte inferior do rosto
• Polainas
• Protetor solar e bálsamo labial
• Aquecedores químicos (opcional)
• Kit de primeiros socorros
• Bandagem elástica e/ou faixa de suporte