Ojos del Salado Climb — 15-Day Expedition

Ojos del Salado stands in the high Atacama desert on the border between Chile and Argentina. The programme starts in Copiapó and then climbs in stages to Laguna Santa Rosa, Laguna Verde, the Atacama camp and the Tejos refuge. Acclimatisation ascents of “Seven Brothers” and San Francisco prepare the group for the 6893 m summit.

Most of the logistics are handled by four-wheel-drive vehicles, but the upper camps remain remote and self-contained. The cold desert-mountain climate brings a large daily temperature range, strong wind and possible snow even in summer. The state of the access roads and entry to individual sections depend on the weather.

The route runs mainly over scree and snowfields. Immediately below the summit there is a short rock section where a belay may be needed. The guide decides on the start, the equipment and whether the team can continue, based on the conditions on the day.

Why the route starts a long way from the summit

The good vehicle access to Ojos del Salado creates a dangerous illusion of simplicity. A four-wheel-drive can carry people, water, food and camp equipment, but it does not speed up physiological adaptation. That is why the programme does not drive straight to Atacama or Tejos. Sleeping altitude is raised in stages, and the there-and-back ascents let you go high and come back down to sleep.

The ascent of San Francisco, 6018 m, is a serious day in its own right. It shows how you move above 5000 m, how you stay warm, drink, eat and recover. Reaching that summit is useful, but it is not an automatic clearance for Ojos del Salado. After each stage we assess the state of the team, the weather and the logistics of the next camp.

How Ojos del Salado differs from an ordinary trekking volcano

The route combines high altitude, a cold desert, strong wind, remoteness and unreliable roads. Snow and ice are possible in the upper section, and there is a short rock step immediately before the summit. Its actual condition determines what equipment and what protection will be needed. Even where the bulk of the route is technically straightforward, fatigue at nearly 7000 m changes both speed and precision of movement.

Dry air makes fluid loss easy to miss. You need to drink and eat on an agreed schedule rather than by thirst or appetite. At the same time water has to be used carefully, because the camps are remote and the supply is part of the vehicle logistics.

How the two reserve days are used

The reserve is not allocated in advance to a second attempt. Snow or wind can affect the road between the camps well before summit day. Extra time may be needed for rest, for waiting until a section is safe to drive, for postponing the move to Tejos or for organising the descent. The team on the ground makes that decision, keeping enough fuel, water and margin to get out of the area.

Who the fifteen-day programme suits

• a participant with previous high-altitude experience and systematic physical preparation;
• someone ready for camp life, dry cold and several days of remoteness;
• a climber with basic skills in crampons and in working with a belay;
• a person who reports symptoms honestly and accepts the guide’s decision to turn back;
• a participant who does not treat vehicle access as a substitute for acclimatisation.

Departure availability is published in the Mountain Guide calendar. If you already hold fresh high-altitude acclimatisation from Aconcagua or another 6000 m peak, a short eight-day Ojos del Salado format also exists; it is being prepared as a separate English page.

Day 1. Arrival in Copiapó.

Meeting at the airport and transfer to the hotel. Food for the climb is bought and the necessary paperwork is completed. An optional walk around the town. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Drive to Laguna Santa Rosa, 3700 m — one of the scenic lakes around Ojos del Salado, with large numbers of flamingos.

Setting up camp. Lunch. Walks on the surrounding hills for better acclimatisation, then rest. Night in camp.

Day 3. Acclimatisation ascent of “Seven Brothers”, 4800 m.

Descent to camp. Rest. Dinner.

Day 4. Drive to Laguna Verde — the Green Lake — 4250 m, about 2 hours.

Night in tents.

Day 5. Acclimatisation ascent of San Francisco, 6018 m.

It is possible to drive to 4900 m, from where a straightforward slope leads to the summit in about 4–6 hours. Descent to Laguna Verde. Night in tents at 4250 m.

Day 6. Rest and acclimatisation at Laguna Verde.

Day 7. Drive to the Atacama camp, about 5300 m.

Camp is set up beside the Atacama refuge, followed by rest.

Day 8. Acclimatisation walk to the assault camp of Ojos del Salado (Tejos refuge, 5800 m) and return to the Atacama camp.

Day 9. Rest day at the Atacama camp.

A drive down to the Laguna Verde camp for a day’s rest is possible; the night is spent at the Atacama camp.

Day 10. Final preparation and move to the Tejos camp, 5800 m.

An early dinner and a night in the refuge or in tents.

Day 11. Summit attempt on Ojos del Salado, 6893 m.

An early start at 5 a.m. The way to the summit usually takes around 9–12 hours. Descent to the Atacama refuge at about 5300 m. A further drive to the refuge at 4500 m is possible. Dinner and rest.

Day 12. Reserve day.

Day 13. Reserve day.

Day 14. Drive to Copiapó.

Flight to Santiago.

Day 15. Departure.

• Mountain Guide expedition leader throughout the programme, for groups of 3 participants or more
• Airport–hotel–airport transfer
• Hotel in Copiapó, 1 night, twin room with breakfast
• Assistance with obtaining the necessary permits
• Transfer Copiapó — Ojos del Salado — Copiapó
• Food and fuel for the high camps
• Mountain guides — one guide for every 3 climbers on the ascent
• Group equipment — tents, stoves, cooking pots
• Group first-aid kit

• International flights
• Climbing permit, charged separately at the tariff in force at the time of the climb
• Porters
• Personal equipment
• Additional costs arising from any deviation from the programme
• Medical insurance covering the stated activity and the maximum altitude of the programme
• Personal expenses such as drinks, internet and phone calls
• Any costs arising from changes to the programme

Documentos:

• Passaporte internacional
• Bilhetes de avião
• Seguro médico

Equipamento pessoal:

• Mochila 50–60 litros
• Saco de dormir, temperatura de conforto de –25 °C a –15 °C
• Isolante térmico
• Bastões de trekking obrigatoriamente com aros
• Crampons, podem ser de alumínio
• Piolet clássico com sistema de auto-segurança. Pode ser leve ou combinado com bastão de esqui
• Capacete
• Arnês de segurança
• Mosquetões, 3 unid.
• Caneca–colher–tigela

Roupa e calçado:

• Botas de alpinismo triplas ou duplas. Duplas — plásticas ou de couro. Entre as plásticas recomendamos Scarpa Vega — provavelmente as botas duplas mais quentes
• Ténis ou botas de trekking. Idealmente — ambos. Ténis para o trekking até o acampamento base, botas leves — para aclimatação e acampamento base. Embora seja possível usar apenas ténis
• Camada impermeável — Casaco + calças. A indústria oferece uma gama de produtos desde membranas simples 5000/5000 até artigos em Gore-Tex
• Fato polar
• Roupa térmica superior + inferior
• Casaco de penas com capuz. Grosso e quente
• Luvas-mitones quentes
• Luvas grossas
• Luvas finas
• Bandana (além de proteger do sol no vale pode ser usada para aquecer o pescoço ou rosto no frio)
• Gorro
• Meias de trekking quentes para o dia da ascensão

Diversos:

• Lanterna de cabeça LED com autonomia mínima de 12 horas
• Óculos de sol
• Máscara de esqui–óculos
• Termos — 1 litro. De preferência sem botão na tampa
• Máscara corta-vento para a parte inferior do rosto (pode ser substituída por cachecol com algum sucesso)
• Polainas
• Protetor solar, bálsamo labial
• Aquecedores químicos (não obrigatórios, mas podem ser muito úteis)
• Kit de primeiros socorros pessoal
• Ligadura elástica e/ou bandagem de suporte