Climb Elbrus from the South, 9 Days

The nine-day south route programme is the main Mountain Guide itinerary for a first ascent of the highest summit in Europe by the classic southern route. It allows participants to adapt to altitude gradually, to gain the full experience of a mountain ascent and to reach the summit push without artificially shortening the acclimatisation.

The route runs up the southern slope of Elbrus to the West summit, 5642 m. No previous mountaineering experience is required: during the programme the guides introduce participants to the necessary equipment, to moving in crampons, to conduct on the route and to the specifics of high-altitude climbing. Normal physical preparation and a responsible attitude to the team’s advice remain essential.

Compared with the seven-day south route programme, this version includes calmer acclimatisation both in the valley and on the mountain. The summit push is planned only after several consecutive days of adaptation, nights at altitude and a rest day. That schedule gives the body more time to get used to thin air and lets the guides judge the condition of each participant more accurately before the ascent.

The nine-day format provides the time needed for sequential acclimatisation, for rest before the summit and for keeping a reserve day in case of bad weather. If the main weather window turns out to be unfavourable, the group can still move the ascent within the programme instead of ending the trip after a single unsuccessful attempt.

The southern route of Elbrus has the most developed infrastructure of the routes on the mountain, which is why it is usually chosen for a first ascent. Cable cars shorten the approach to the high-altitude section, shelter accommodation lets participants rest and recover between hikes, and where necessary a snowcat can be used on the initial part of the ascent. Infrastructure does not make Elbrus an easy mountain, but it gives more options for organising the programme and for reacting to changes in the weather or in how participants feel.

The altitude of 5642 m remains the main factor of difficulty. Even on the classic route participants face an early night start, cold, wind, long periods of walking in crampons and several hours of work above 5000 m. Elbrus for beginners should therefore not be as short as possible but properly planned. Our task is not simply to bring the group to the summit, but to help participants meet altitude safely, gain the right first experience and keep the appetite for travelling in big mountains.

We have worked on Elbrus since 2001 and know the typical mistakes people make when they first find themselves at this altitude. Beginners often overestimate their speed, underestimate recovery or try to keep going despite feeling worse. On the route it matters not only to be physically strong but to keep discipline, control the pace and follow the guides’ decisions.

Participants who are not yet ready for the ascent but want to get to know the area and walk part of the acclimatisation routes with the group can join the separate recreation programme in the Elbrus region instead. Treks and straightforward high-altitude ascents also make good preliminary preparation, because they let you judge in advance how your body reacts to long efforts and thin air.

Experienced participants can make the classic southern route harder. The Mountain Guide catalogue also contains the ascent of both summits of Elbrus, the traverse of Elbrus from south to north and the Cross of Elbrus programme from south to north. For a first ascent, however, where time is not tightly constrained, the nine-day south route programme allows the fullest acclimatisation of the south-route formats in this catalogue.

Day 1. Arrival in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to the Elbrus region.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the programme: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. The drive to the Elbrus region takes about three hours and covers roughly 200 km. After checking into the hotel participants meet the guide, discuss the acclimatisation plan, the specifics of the classic southern route and how the group will work, and check clothing, boots and mountaineering equipment. Anything missing or the wrong size has to be sorted out before the high-altitude section begins. The rest of the day is for recovering from the journey, preparing kit and getting a proper night’s sleep before the first hike. There is no physical load on this day. Overnight at the hotel in the Elbrus region.

Day 2. First acclimatisation hike on Cheget, 3000 m.

After breakfast the group sets out on an unhurried trekking route on the slopes of Cheget to about 3000 m. The aim of the day is to spend several hours above the valley, to settle into a steady pace and to test trekking boots, clothing, rucksack and poles in movement. This is still the valley stage of the programme: rubbing points, uncomfortable clothing or mistakes in packing can still be corrected before the move up to the shelter. The guide watches the condition of the participants and explains how to manage effort, adjust clothing and keep drinking. Any noticeable deterioration must be reported to the guide at once. After reaching the planned altitude the group descends and returns to the hotel. Overnight at the hotel in the Elbrus region. High point about 3000 m, ascent about 1100 m, distance about 11 km.

Day 3. Acclimatisation hike to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall and the observatory, 3100 m.

The second acclimatisation route goes to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall at about 2700 m and on to the observatory at about 3100 m. Participants gain altitude again and spend several hours moving before the transfer to the high-mountain shelter. The southern slope of Elbrus is visible from the route, and the guide can point out the line of the coming ascent and the position of the high-altitude zone. It is important to move evenly rather than compete on speed; conserving strength and understanding how the body reacts to a second consecutive day of effort matters more. Headache, nausea, unusual weakness and any other change in how you feel must be reported to the guide immediately. After the hike the group returns to the hotel and packs for the high-altitude part of the programme. Overnight at the hotel in the Elbrus region. High point about 3100 m, ascent about 1200 m, distance about 13 km.

Day 4. Move up to the high-mountain shelter and acclimatisation hike to 4200 m.

After breakfast the group transfers to the Azau meadow and rides the cable car up the southern slope of Elbrus.

In September the cable car may be closed for scheduled maintenance. If the cable car cannot be used, the guide decides the onward logistics according to the actual situation; a vehicle is hired for the ascent if necessary. If the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket, participants pay the difference. The high-mountain shelter stands at 3888 m. After settling in, participants prepare their equipment and hike up to about 4200 m. The guides check the fit of boots and crampons, whether clothing matches conditions and how everyone feels after gaining altitude quickly by cable car. This short hike is not a speed session but a first encounter with the altitude of the shelter and a check of equipment in real conditions. For many participants this is the first night at almost 4000 m, so a calm pace, rest and close attention to how the body responds all matter. Overnight at the high-mountain shelter. High point about 4200 m, ascent during the hike about 312 m, distance about 2 km.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Pastukhov Rocks, 4700 m.

The group climbs to the Pastukhov Rocks at about 4700 m, the main acclimatisation hike before the ascent. Participants walk in mountaineering boots and crampons on part of the future summit route. The guides help set the pace, explain the technique of moving on a snow slope and assess the condition, coordination and readiness of each participant for work above 4000 m. This hike lets you see the night section of the route in daylight and shows how the body copes with a long effort at altitude. Reaching the set point is not a competition: if a participant feels worse, the guide may adjust the height of the hike. After the planned point the group descends to the shelter, rests and reviews how everyone is. Overnight at the high-mountain shelter. High point about 4700 m, ascent about 812 m, distance about 6 km.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the ascent.

The day is spent at the high-mountain shelter at 3888 m. Participants recover from the acclimatisation hikes and prepare clothing, crampons, headtorches, flasks and the rest of their personal equipment in advance. The guides check the kit once more and give a detailed briefing: the order of the night start, the sequence of sections along the route, the pace, the stops, protection against cold and the signs of deterioration that must be reported immediately. Depending on the weather and the state of the slope there may be a short practical session on moving in crampons. The final decision to set out is taken by the lead guide on the basis of the forecast and the condition of the route and the participants. The group goes to rest early. Overnight at the high-mountain shelter.

Day 7. Ascent of the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m.

The summit push on the classic southern route starts at night, usually between 02:00 and 04:00; the exact time is set by the lead guide according to the weather, the state of the snow and the expected pace of the group. Depending on the condition of the participants and on conditions, part of the initial climb may be shortened using a snowcat. The route then passes the Pastukhov Rocks, the Traverse and the saddle between the summits, from where the final climb to the West summit begins. Participants follow the guide and report headache, nausea, loss of coordination, sudden weakness or any other unusual change immediately. On summit day the ratio is one guide to three participants, so the group can be divided if necessary. The decision to continue or turn back is taken by the guide. After a short stop on the summit the group descends by the same route to the shelter. Overnight at the high-mountain shelter. High point 5642 m, ascent up to 1754 m, distance about 14 km.

Day 8. Reserve day and descent to the Elbrus region.

If the whole group was unable to begin the summit attempt the day before because of conditions on the mountain, the reserve day is used for a repeat group attempt at no extra charge. If part of the group has already reached the summit, the attempt counts as completed and further departures for the remaining participants are paid separately. The start time and the possibility of a repeat attempt are decided by the lead guide after assessing the forecast, the route and the condition of the participants. If the main ascent took place, the group packs, descends by cable car to the Azau meadow and checks into the hotel. If the reserve day is used for a repeat attempt, the descent schedule depends on the time of return and on the cable car’s operating hours; the lead guide decides. In the normal case the night is spent at the hotel in the Elbrus region.

Day 9. Departure to the airport.

The group transfer to Mineralnye Vody airport leaves at 07:00 — please take this into account when choosing your return flight. If your flight is in the evening, you can leave your luggage in the airport left-luggage office and travel independently by taxi to Pyatigorsk. In the town you can visit the site of Mikhail Lermontov’s duel, the Proval cave and the viewpoint, which in clear weather looks out over Pyatigorsk and Elbrus.

• Mountain Guide guides throughout the programme. On summit day the ratio of guides to participants strictly does not exceed one to three
• An unlimited number of group summit attempts within the reserve days provided by the programme. If part of the group reaches the summit, the attempt counts as completed and further departures for the remaining participants are arranged for a separate charge
• The services of a cook
• Hotel accommodation in the Elbrus region in twin rooms as set out in the programme
• Accommodation in the high-mountain shelter as set out in the programme
• All transfers within the programme from Mineralnye Vody airport or railway station and back
• All cable car ascents and descents provided by the programme
• Three meals a day throughout the programme, including dinner on the day of arrival and breakfast on the day of departure
• All necessary group equipment: ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and a group first aid kit
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• The snowcat on summit day. Where it is used, it is charged by the operator at the season tariff in force and paid separately on the spot; using it is not compulsory
• Early check-in and late check-out at the hotel. We ask our partners for these in advance, but they cannot be guaranteed
• Personal equipment and the hire of it
• Any costs connected with deviations from the programme or with changes to it
• The supplement for an alternative ascent by vehicle if the cable car is closed for maintenance in September and the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket

Todas as datas, Todos os programas e serviços.

Na Rock-and-Rent, há absolutamente tudo, de alto nível de qualidade. Você pode chegar até de shorts (especialmente se reservar tudo com antecedência). Todo o equipamento foi selecionado com base em um único fator: máxima adequação às condições do Elbrus, onde levamos clientes desde 2001!

E sim, elaboramos esta lista com muito cuidado — no total, os guias da empresa realizaram milhares de ascensões, e não acreditamos que haja algo desnecessário nela!

Documentos:

• Passaporte
• Passagens de avião/trem
• Seguro de saúde
• Voucher (para estrangeiros)

Equipamento pessoal:

• Mochila de 30-40 litros
• Saco de dormir, conforto de 0°C a +10°C (de junho a setembro inclusive), de -20°C a -10°C (de outubro a maio inclusive)
• Colchonete
• Bastões de trekking com anéis de pelo menos 70 mm
• Crampons
• Piolet clássico, com corda de 5-6 mm para encaixe no sistema (2-3 metros)
• Sistema de escalada/alpinismo
• Capacete
• Mosquetões, 3 unidades (melhor grandes — mais confortáveis para trabalhar com luvas)
• Cordas de segurança pessoais

Roupas e calçados:

• Roupas de esqui podem ser adequadas para o Elbrus?
• Botas de alpinismo duplas/triplas — plásticas ou de couro. Monocamadas podem ser usadas se houver gaiters (não confundir com polainas)
• Tênis de trekking ou botas de trekking. Em maio e início de junho, nos primeiros treinos de aclimatação, ainda pode haver neve — nesse caso, as botas têm vantagem sobre os tênis. Após meados de junho até o final de setembro, podem ser substituídas por tênis (mas há risco de torcer o tornozelo) — certifique-se de que ainda sejam à prova d’água
• Camada impermeável — jaqueta + calças, membrana recomendada de 10.000/10.000 ou superior
• Fleece
• Roupa térmica — parte superior e inferior
• Jaqueta de pluma com capuz, grossa e quente, peso típico a partir de 700 g
• Luvas quentes
• Luvas grossas (de esqui)
• Luvas finas (fleece)
• Bandana (além de proteção solar, pode proteger pescoço ou rosto do frio)
• Gorro
• Meias quentes de trekking para o dia da ascensão
• Chapéu para proteção solar
• Calças e camisetas de trekking (de preferência, mangas compridas)
• Meias de trekking para os dias de caminhada (quantidade conforme o número de dias)

Diversos:

• Lanterna de cabeça com autonomia mínima de 12 horas
• Óculos de sol, categoria 3-4, devem proteger totalmente a visão lateral
• Máscara de esqui, categoria 1-2 (para mau tempo, não para sol)
• Garrafa térmica, 1 litro, preferencialmente sem botão na tampa
• Máscara contra vento para parte inferior do rosto (pode ser substituída parcialmente por um lenço)
• Protetor solar, marca confiável, SPF 30-50
• Bálsamo labial, SPF-15
• Kit de primeiros socorros pessoal
• Bandagem elástica e/ou suporte ortopédico
• Gaiters (não obrigatório, mas útil especialmente em maio-junho)
• Aquecedores químicos (não obrigatório, mas podem ser muito úteis)