Climbing Alpamayo — 16-Day Technical Expedition

After arriving in Lima the group travels to Huaraz, makes an acclimatisation walk and then continues through Cashapampa and the Santa Cruz valley to the Alpamayo base camp. The next stage is carrying equipment to the moraine camp, moving up the glacier to the col camp and an attempt on the south-west face.

The route calls for confident use of crampons and ice tools, and for ascending and descending a fixed rope. Snow and ice conditions determine the actual line of the climb. The final choice is made by the guiding team after inspecting the face.

Day 12 is set aside for a possible attempt on Quitaraju or for rest. This is not a guaranteed second summit: the decision depends on the condition of the participants, the weather, the route and the time left after Alpamayo.

Alpamayo lies inside Huascarán National Park. Visits and mountain activity are organised through an authorised operator, and the permit paperwork provided for by the programme is part of the list of included services.

Where the approach ends and the climb begins

The first days give time to travel to Huaraz, make an acclimatisation walk and cover the Santa Cruz valley. From the moraine camp onwards the character of the programme changes: the group carries the technical kit, moves onto the glacier and climbs to the high camp. On the face you have to work confidently with two ice tools, crampons and a fixed rope.

The actual line on the south-west face depends on the state of the snow and ice. The ice conditions, the bergschrund, the crevasses and the danger of falling ice are assessed before the climb. The name of a line and past reports are no substitute for inspecting the route as it is now.

How technical readiness is assessed

• movement in crampons on steep snow and ice without constant prompting;
• working with two tools and keeping balance under load;
• ascending a fixed rope and making a controlled descent;
• changing anchor points in gloves and in the dark;
• understanding the guide’s commands and discipline on the rope;
• experience of self-contained tented camps and of recovering at altitude.

The role of Quitaraju in the programme

The published day 12 can be used for an attempt on Quitaraju or for rest. The decision is taken only after the main objective. Fatigue, a late return, the loss of a weather window or the need to bring a camp down safely are all sufficient reasons to give up the second summit.

Porters and pack animals help to organise the approach and the camps, but they do not make the face any easier. Every participant must have their own technical equipment, valid insurance for the stated altitude and activity, and be ready to turn back when the guide decides to.

Day 1. Arrival in Lima.

The journey begins with the landing in the Peruvian capital. You are met at the airport and transferred to the hotel for a rest after the flight. In the evening the whole team gathers with the guide for a short briefing and dinner. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Lima to Huaraz.

An early departure from Lima. The road runs past desert plains and climbs steadily into the mountains. After about eight hours of travel we reach Huaraz, a town set among snow-covered peaks, and check into the hotel. Night in a hotel.

Day 3. Acclimatisation walk to Laguna Churup.

The day is given to a first contact with the mountain environment and to gradual acclimatisation. The path leads to Laguna Churup. Back in Huaraz we sort the equipment in detail, ready for what follows. Night in a hotel.

Day 4. Cashapampa and the walk in to Llamacoral camp.

At dawn we travel to the village of Cashapampa, where the walk into the mountains starts. The path crosses valleys with pasture and scrub, with snow peaks in the distance. By evening we reach the Llamacoral camp. Night in tents.

Day 5. Ascent to base camp, 4115 m.

The route continues to climb. The path along the Santa Cruz lakes brings us to base camp at the edge of the forest zone. The camp at 4115 m is our home for the next few days. Night in tents.

Day 6. Acclimatisation carry to the moraine camp, 4877 m.

Today we make an acclimatisation ascent. Glacier fields and steep slopes are part of the way. At 4877 m, at the moraine camp, you leave part of the equipment to lighten the load for the rest of the route, then return to base camp to rest. Night in tents.

Day 7. Rest and rope-work practice.

A day for recovery. A quiet morning, rope technique practice and an unhurried lunch. Night in tents.

Day 8. Base camp to the moraine camp, 4877 m.

Today we leave base camp and climb to the moraine camp. With every step the glaciers come closer. Tents, a hot dinner and rest await at 4877 m. Night in tents.

Day 9. Glacier crossing and the col camp, 5486 m.

One of the hardest days. You cross the glacier, weaving between the crevasses, and climb steep snow slopes. The camp at 5486 m looks out over the surrounding peaks. Night in tents.

Day 10. Summit attempt on Alpamayo, 5947 m.

We start the climb at night by headtorch. Steep ice slopes demanding all your skill and endurance lead towards the summit. From 5947 m you look out over an ocean of snow-covered peaks. After the descent to the col camp, a hot dinner. Night in tents.

Day 11. Rest after the summit attempt.

After the demanding summit push this day is given to rest. Night in tents.

Day 12. Possible ascent of Quitaraju, 6041 m, or a rest day.

For those ready for another challenge, an ascent of Quitaraju is offered. The route is less steep but longer, and the viewpoint at 6041 m is the reward. If you would rather take the day quietly, you can stay in camp and rest. Night in tents.

Day 13. Descent to base camp.

The descent to base camp is easier but no less scenic. The camp meets us with warmth and hot food. Night in tents.

Day 14. Descent to Cashapampa and return to Huaraz.

We descend to the village of Cashapampa and say goodbye to the mountains. In Huaraz a hot shower, a proper bed and a celebration dinner await. Night in a hotel.

Day 15. Return to Lima.

The journey returns to where it began. Night in a hotel in Lima.

Day 16. Departure.

Transfer to the airport and flight home.

• An experienced Mountain Guide team guide, for groups of 4 participants or more
• Airport meeting and send-off
• Transfers along the programme
• Hotel accommodation, twin rooms, the number of nights set out in the programme
• Tented accommodation and meals during the climb
• Group climbing equipment (high-altitude tents, gas, stoves, ropes and so on)
• Preparation of all the permit paperwork required for the climb
• The services of porters and pack animals

• International flights
• Visa and other entry documents where these are required by the participant’s nationality
• Medical insurance covering the stated type of activity and the maximum altitude of the programme
• Single occupancy
• Vaccinations
• Early check-in, late check-out and additional nights before or after the programme
• Lunches and dinners in the towns
• Excess baggage charges
• Tips
• Any deviations from the programme
• Any expenses arising from changes to the programme

Documents:

• Passport
• Plane tickets
• Medical insurance with mountaineering coverage

Personal gear:

• Backpack (50–60 liters)
• Sleeping bag with comfort temperature from –20 °C to –10 °C
• Sleeping pad (self‑inflating or foam)
• Trekking poles with wide baskets
• Crampons (steel or aluminum, compatible with boots)
• Ice axe (classic, for self‑arrest)
• Helmet
• Climbing harness
• Personal anchor system with carabiners (preferably automatic or screw‑lock)
• Carabiners (at least 4, including two locking)
• Accessory cord (6–7 mm diameter, 2–3 m length for making a Prusik knot)
• Jumar (ascender)
• Descending device (e.g., a figure‑eight or similar)
• Cup, spoon, bowl

Clothing and footwear:

• Double or triple mountaineering boots
• Trekking footwear (boots or trail shoes)
• Waterproof jacket and pants (membrane rating at least 5000/5000, preferably Gore‑Tex)
• Fleece jacket and pants
• Thermal underwear, top and bottom
• Down jacket with hood, thick and warm
• Warm mittens
• Thick gloves
• Thin gloves for working
• Bandana or buff
• Warm hat
• Trekking socks (several pairs, including warm ones for the ascent)

Miscellaneous:

• Headlamp with at least 12 hours of burn time plus spare batteries
• Sunglasses (category 3–4)
• Ski goggles (for wind protection)
• Thermos (1 liter, preferably with a secure lid)
• Windproof mask or scarf
• Gaiters for snow protection
• Sunscreen (SPF 50+)
• Lip balm
• Personal first aid kit (including altitude medication, bandages, analgesics)
• Elastic bandage and/or support brace
• Chemical hand/foot warmers (optional)

Equipment rental prices on Alpamayo (2024):

Waterproof jacket — $70

Trekking poles — $30

Mountaineering boots (double) — $120

Backpack 50–70 L — $50

Down jacket — $100

Sleeping bag (–20 °C) — $80

Sleeping bag (–30 °C) — $130

Crampons — $50

Ice axe — $50

Helmet — $40

Harness — $40

Locking carabiners — $10 each

Personal anchor system — $20

Jumar — $35

Descending device — $30

Gaiters — $25

High‑altitude tent (2–3 people) — $150

Kitchen set — $30