Honored Master of Sports in mountaineering, honored coach of Russia. Coach of the Russian team in mountaineering.
Member of the first Soviet expedition to Everest. Ascent to the Himalayan eight-thousand-mountain Everest (2005), Kanchenjunga (1989, deputy head of the expedition, awarded with the Badge of Honor order), Annapurna (1991, climbed the classical route from the North, used oxygen starting from a height of 7,500 m), Shishapangma (1992, head of expedition, didn’t use oxygen), Lhotse Home (1997), Cho-Oyu (1999). In addition, in 1994 he conquered the summit of Southern Annapurna (7219 m) during the first winter Russian climbers ascent in the Himalayas. 24 ascents to the peaks of 7000+ meters.
Official 1st category in mountaineering
2001-2018 – 158 ascents (about 130 of them as a leader) to Elbrus with clients. Participated in Tequila-Jazz group concert on Elbrus.
2003, January – Free Spain, Osipova, 4b
2004 – Khan-Tengri peak (7010m), Lenin Peak (7135m)
2005, January – Ullutau, Burlutskiy, 5b
2006. – Organizer and guide of the expedition to Lenin Peak (7135m), Kyrgyzstan
2007 – Participant of sports expedition to Broad-peak (up to 7900m.) and K-2 (up to 8000m.), participation in rescue operations on K2. Organizer and guide of the expedition to Lenin Peak (7135m), Kyrgyzstan
2008 – Organizer and guide of the expedition to Lenin Peak (7135m), Kyrgyzstan
2009 – Organizer and tour guide to McKinley (6193m), Alaska
2011 – Organizer and tour guide to McKinley (6193m), Alaska
Organizer and guide of the expedition to Chimborazso (6300m) and Cotopaxi (5900m), Ecuador
Guide of Indonesian disabled person, who was the first one to reach the summit of Elbrus (from the North) without the help of technical means
2012 – Organizer and guide of the expedition to Aconcagua (6957m), Argentina
Organizer and guide of the expedition to Lenin Peak (7135m), Kyrgyzstan
2013 – Kilimanjaro.
2014 – Ascent to Elbrus with ATVs, the certificate of the book of records of Russia is received, the height of 5250m is reached.
Ascent to Elbrus from the South with a person with disabilities (without prostheses).
2015 – Climbing Elbrus with a 10-year-old boy, Ararat, Kazbek, attempt to climb the Ojos Del Salado.
2016 – Successful expedition to lift the ATV to the top of Elbrus.
2017- Guide and organizer of the ascent of Muztag Ata (7546m), Lenin Peak (7135m), participant of the ascent of Manaslu (8156m).
2018 – Disabled person’s guide on the route “Cross of Elbrus” without the help of technical means.
Officially: Candidate in masters of sport in mountaineering, “Snow leopard”, Rescue squad badge, mountaineering instructor, of Kyrgyzstan Mountain Guides Association technical director. Graduated from the Heli-Ski guides school, finished first aid courses. Participation in rescue operations at altitudes up to 6900 m. More than 300 helicopter hours as a guide in Heli-Ski, passed training at the Swiss school of mountain guides. Spent in total 320 days in the mountains as instructor at the training camps.
1999 – Elbrus
2003 – Elbrus, pioneering the Western peak along the North-West rib.
2005 – Khan Tengri (7010).
2006 – Communism (7495) and Korzhenevskaya (7100).
2007 – Lenin Peak (7134 m, repeatedly), Vazha Pshavela (6900) – rescue work.
2008 – peak of Lenin (7134m, many times).
2009 – Victory Peak (7439), the peak of Boxing (Mikhailova 5B) in winter
2010 – the peak of Communism (7495)
2011 – Lenin (7134), Muztag-Ata (7546), Nanga-Parbat up to 7600
2012 – 2 ascents to Lenin Peak, downhill skiing from Lenin, 5 ski runs from the Crown Peak (4860).
2013 – Lenin Peak, Muztag Ata (7546)
2014 – Lenin Peak
2015 – Lenin Peak
2016 – Elbrus, Lenin Peak, an attempt to climb the Victory Peak, climbing Aconcagua (twice).
2017- Muztag Ata (7546m), Lenin Peak (7135m)
Officially: the first climbing class, a mountaineering instructor, a ski instructor of the level “B” according to International Association of Ski Instructors (IsiA) classification, a certified instructor in snowboarding.
1987 – the first experience in mountain tourism.
1996 – the first experience in mountaineering.
1996 – the first Elbrus ascent.
2008 – the beginning of work as a guide
2008 – The Castle, 5A
2009 – Fisht, 5A
2010 – Cheget Tauchana, 5A
2011 – Cathedral-rock, 5A, first ascent, Dombai West, 5B
2013 – School of Instructions
2014 – Lenin Peak (7134 m) as a guide.
Climbed Elbrus summit 70 times (as for 2016)
2017 – participant climbing Manaslu (8156m)
Was on top of Elbrus 90 times (as of 2018)
Officially: Candidate in masters of sport in mountaineering, multiple winner of the championships of the Krasnodar Territory and the South of Russia in mountaineering, skyraning and orienteering.
Started mountaineering in 1988
Climbing in the Caucasus:
Traverse Juguturluchat 5A
Dombai West along the Southern ridge 5A
Dombay West on the South wall 5B
Dombay West according to the Western abutment 5B
Dombay West on the South-East abutment 5B
Amanauz Dvuhzubka 6A
2006 – Khan-Tengri peak (7010m), Peak of Victory (7400m).
2007 – K2 peak (8611m).
2014 – Lenin peak (7135m).
2015 – Aconcagua (6967m three times).
2016 – Ushba (4810, Classics, 4A, solo), Dombay Main (guide), Aconcagua (twice), Gaykomd (3200m, 6A).
2017 – Manaslu (8163m), Aconcagua (6967m), Morcheka (5A, 5B, 3*6A), Ushba (4810 m, Classic, 4A).
2018 – Aconcagua, twice winter Gaykomd 5B, Eridag 6B.
2019 – winter Eridag 5A and 5B.
1988 – 2019 – more than 100 Elbrus ascents, more than 15 of them in winter.
2006 – began climbing, coach Baranov S.
2008-2013 – sports climbing, participation in various championships.
2013 – participation in the extreme marathon “100 km in 24 hours”.
2014 – participation in the extreme marathon “100 km in 24 hours”. III place.
2015 – Fisht Small (first walk), participation in the extreme marathon “100 km in 24 hours”. I place.
2017 – Lenin Peak (7134m), participation of the climb to Manaslu (8156m).
2018 – Kazbek (5033m) from the side of Georgia.
Honored Master of Sports in mountaineering, Rescue team badge, mountaineering instructor, judge of alpinism championships, coach. Repeated award winner and nominee of the awards “Golden Ice ax” and “Golden Ice ax of Russia”
Nikolai Totmyanin has done about 200 ascents to the mountain peaks of the Caucasus, the Pamirs, the Tien Shan, the Swiss Alps, the Himalayas and the Korakorum, including 27 of 5A complexity category, 10 of 5B, and 16 of 6th difficulty category.
Ascents of the 6th complexity category:
1984 Aksu from the North Face, 1986 Sabah from the North Face,
1988 Free Korea from the North,
1990. Lhotse Home (8516 m) from the South Face,
2004 Jeanne (7,710 m) from the North Face,
2007 K2 by the Western Wall, “Golden Ice Ax of Russia”
Winter ascents of 5-6 cat. difficulty:
1984 – Shurovsky peak from the bastion of the North Wall, Caucasus, the first winter walkthrough
1985 – Free Korea in the center of the North Wall, Tien Shan, the first winter walkthrough
1986 – Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m), Pamir, the first winter walkthrough
1989 – Krumkol along the Northern Ridge, the Caucasus, the second winter walkthrough
1997 – Eiger from the North Face, Swiss Alps
2001 – Urriel by the Western Wall, Cordillera Cantabrica, Spain, the first winter walkthrough
2014 – The first winter traverse of the Bezengi wall, Caucasus
2015 – Nanga Parbat, the Schell route to a height of 7150
1982 – the peak of Lenin (7134 m)
1983 – Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m), the peak of Communism (7495 m)
1984 – the Peak of Victory (7439 m)
1986 – Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m) – the first winter ascent
1988 – the peak of Communism (7495 m)
1990 – Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m), peak of Communism (7495 m), peak of Communism (7495 m) – climbing from the base camp to the top and back during 28 hours, Lhotse Main (8516 m), the first walk by the South wall, 8350 m.
1991 – the peak of Lenin (7134 m)
1993 – Khan-Tengri (6,995 m) in August, Khan-Tengri (6,995 m) in October – 2 times
1994 – Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) – 2 times, the peak of Communism (7495 m) – 2 times
1995 – Khan-Tengri (6,995 m)
1996 – Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) – 2 times, Peak Communism (7495 m) 1997 – Lenin Peak (7134 m) in deuce, Khan Tengri (6995 m) – Solo ascent from the base camp to the top and back for 14 Hours 03 minutes, the Peak of Victory (7439 m)
1998 – the Victory Peak (7439 m)
1999 – Khan-Tengri (6995 m) – 2 times, the Victory Peak (7439 m)
2000 – Lenin Peak (7134 m) in deuce, Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) in pair, Peak Communism (7495 m) in pair
2001 – Lenin Peak (7134 m), Lenin Peak (7134 m) – solo ascent of the Northern slope from the camp (4200 m) to the summit and descent through the Razdelnaya summit to the camp (4200 m) in 12 hours 46 minutes.
2002 – Khan-Tengri (6995 m), Victory Peak (7439 m) in pair
2003 – Everest (8848 m) from the North through the Northern Saddle, without oxygen
2004 – Jeanne (7,710 m) along the North Face – the best climbing achievement of the year – climbing the Jeanne Peak (7,710 m) from the North Face as part of the “Russian Way – The Walls of the World” team, won the Golden Ice Ax prize.
2006 – Everest (8848) from the North through the North Saddle, without oxygen, 2007 – K2 (8611) along the Western Wall, without oxygen,
2007 – 2007 K2 on the Western Wall, “Golden Ice Ax of Russia”
2008 – Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in classics in pair with V. Babanov
2009 – Khan-Tengri (7010 m), the Victory Peak (7439 m) in pair.
2011 – Kanchenjunga Ch. (8586 m) in the classics without oxygen, Lenin Peak (7134 m)
22.07 – Lenin Peak (7134 m) solo classic to the top and back for 13 hours 50 min.
29.07 – Lenin Peak classic to the top (7 hours 20 minutes) and back for 4 hours (Lenin Race Competition).
2013 – the peak of Lenin (7134 m) classic
2014 – the peak of Lenin (7134 m) in the classics of solo
2015 – Winter ascent to Nanga-Parbat to 7150m., Lenin Peak (7134m) classic three times
2016 – Lenin Peak (7134 m) classic, Lenin Peak (7134 m) on the direction of the Northern slope from Camp 1, solo (7 hours to the summit) and descent through Razdelnaya to Camp 1.
The first category in mountain tourism, the first category in mountaineering.
1998 – started practicing mountain tourism.
2009 – started mountain climbing as a sport. Ascent to Belukha (4499m).
2011 – expedition to Lenin Peak (7135m), Pamir.
Annual numerous ascents to Elbrus (5642m) by various routes, Kazbek (5033m), Belukha (4499m), technical ascent in Baksan gorge and Bezengi gorge, Aktru.
2015 – Gestola (4860m), speed climbing to the top of area Bezengi.
2016 – Tetnuld (4859m), Georgia, Svavetia. Technical ascent in the gorge Bezengi.
2017 – Manaslu (8163m), Lenin Peak (7135m).
Is fond of mountain jogging, skyranning, regularly participates in competitions of different level.
7 times on the Konzhakovskiy mountain marathon
2 times in the ultramarathon in Iremel
3 times in the race to Elbrus
In 2013 participated in the Transalpine Marathon (260km in 8 days), and many other extreme races.
2018 – Markotkh Trail 54 km. II place.
2018 – Grom Anapa Trail 18 km. III place.
2018 – Swiss Peaks Trail 170 km. Finish XVI place.