Climb Carstensz Pyramid, 8 Days with Helicopter Access

Carstensz Pyramid, 4884 m, is the highest summit in Oceania and one of the key mountains of the Seven Summits project. It is a rare technical climb in a remote part of Indonesia, where a demanding rock route is combined with difficult helicopter logistics, changeable weather and expedition living.

The main advantage of this programme is the helicopter flight from Timika directly to base camp at 4100 m and the return flight after the climb. That format removes the multi-day approach through the jungle and allows the expedition to be completed in a comparatively short time, while remaining a full mountaineering undertaking with acclimatisation, technical sessions and reserve days.

What the climb costs reflects not the number of days but the organisation of access to one of the hardest summits of the Seven Summits to reach. The programme covers the helicopter, the permits, the work of the local team, the setting up of base camp, meals, the fixing of ropes on the route, group rock equipment and the guides. Mountain Guide takes on the complex regional logistics so that participants can concentrate on their preparation and on the route itself.

The classic north route

Carstensz Pyramid, also known as Puncak Jaya, lies in the Indonesian part of the island of New Guinea. The summit belongs to the Sudirman Range and rises to 4884 m above sea level. In Reinhold Messner’s list it is this mountain, rather than the much lower and technically simpler Mount Kosciuszko, that represents Australia and Oceania in the Seven Summits.

Puncak Jaya differs from most of the other summits in the project. There is no sustained travel over snow or glaciers here, but there is genuine rock climbing on limestone, fixed ropes, an exposed ridge and sections where a mistake can have serious consequences. The mountain is lower than Elbrus, Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua, yet taken as a whole its technical difficulty exceeds their classic routes.

The classic line runs on the north side of the mountain and follows the route of the first ascent by Heinrich Harrer’s expedition in 1962. The northern face is built of more solid rock than the southern side. On dry sections the character of the climbing may remind experienced climbers of familiar rock routes, but high humidity, rain, altitude and the length of the climb make Carstensz a considerably more serious undertaking.

From base camp the group approaches the north face and starts up a system of rock gullies, slabs and ridges. The main sections are equipped with fixed ropes. Participants ascend them with an ascender, cross exposed traverses, change over at the anchor points and abseil. A Tyrolean traverse may be used at the gaps in the summit ridge. Confident command of all your personal technical equipment is therefore essential before the trip.

Acclimatisation, technique and safety

The particular feature of the helicopter programme is the abrupt move from Timika to base camp at 4100 m. After the flight the body needs time to adapt. On the first day in camp there is a gentle acclimatisation walk and the first check of technical skills. The following day is given over entirely to acclimatisation and equipment sessions.

The technical sessions at base camp exist to refresh and check skills that participants already have. It is not possible to learn mountaineering from scratch in two days. A participant must already be able to use a harness, an ascender, a descender and self-belay lanyards, and to work calmly on exposed terrain.

The climb begins early in the morning and takes about 10 to 12 hours including the descent. In that time you have to cover the rock section of the north face, reach the exposed summit ridge, gain the summit at 4884 m and return to base camp. Sustained work with the arms, wet ropes and rock, wind and fatigue all demand good physical condition and solid technical skills.

Safety rests on the equipment check beforehand, on acclimatisation, on the work of the Mountain Guide leader and the local guides, on the fixing of ropes, on the use of radios and on the reserve days. The decision to go for the summit and to continue the climb is taken with the weather, the condition of the route and the readiness of the participants in mind. Having reserve days does not guarantee the summit, but it does mean the team need not set out on a technical route in conditions that are clearly unfavourable.

Access, climate and preparation

The main organisational difficulty on Carstensz is access to the mountain. Helicopter flights depend on the weather, and running the expedition requires permits and coordination with the local team. That is exactly why the programme includes reserve days, and why it is better to plan international return tickets with extra time in hand.

The western part of New Guinea has high humidity, a tropical climate at low altitude and high-mountain conditions around base camp. Before the trip it is worth reading up on malaria prevention and obtaining individual medical advice in advance.

Medical insurance must cover technical mountaineering, an altitude of 4884 m, search and rescue and possible evacuation.

Because of its complex logistics and high cost, Carstensz is often one of the last summits of the project. Mountain Guide also runs the other Seven Summits programmes for climbers continuing or completing the list.

Day 1. Arrival in Timika and preparation for the climb. The guide meets participants at Timika airport, after which there is a transfer to the hotel and check-in. During the day the group gets to know the team, discusses the climbing programme and the particular features of the helicopter access. The guide checks personal and technical equipment, shares out the group kit and gives the safety briefing. The documents needed to obtain the permits are also checked. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Helicopter flight to base camp, 4100 m. Early in the morning, if weather and flying conditions allow, the group flies by helicopter from Timika to the base camp of Carstensz Pyramid. After the rapid move from low ground to 4100 m, participants need time to rest and adapt. In the afternoon there is a gentle acclimatisation walk and a first check of how everyone works with their climbing equipment. Night in tents at base camp.

Day 3. Acclimatisation and technical preparation. The day is devoted to adapting to altitude and preparing for the classic route on the north side. Participants go over the technique of ascending fixed ropes with an ascender, descending, self-belay and changing over at anchor points. The guide checks how confidently each participant works with the equipment on rock terrain, after which the group prepares personal kit and clothing for the summit day. Night in tents at base camp.

Day 4. Ascent of Carstensz Pyramid, 4884 m. An early start from base camp. The group climbs the classic route on the north side, which takes in rock gullies, climbing sections, fixed ropes and an exposed summit ridge. Depending on the condition of the route, a Tyrolean traverse may be used at some of the gaps in the ridge. The ascent and descent take about 10 to 12 hours and call for good physical condition and confident use of an ascender and a descender. After reaching the summit of Puncak Jaya the group abseils and returns to base camp. Night in tents.

Day 5. First reserve day. This day is held in reserve in case of rain, strong wind, poor visibility or other conditions that prevented the climb from starting as planned. If the summit was reached the day before, participants can recover after the long technical route, dry equipment and prepare for the return helicopter flight. Night in tents at base camp.

Day 6. Second reserve day. The additional reserve keeps open the chance of using a suitable weather window for the climb. The decision to set out is taken by the guide, allowing for the condition of the route, the forecast and the readiness of the participants. If the ascent has already taken place, the group stays at base camp and prepares to return to Timika. Night in tents.

Day 7. Helicopter flight to Timika. If flying conditions allow, the helicopter collects the group from base camp and brings it to Timika. With the mountain part of the programme complete, participants check into the hotel and can rest. The remaining time can be used for recovery and preparation for the flight out. Night in a hotel.

Day 8. End of the programme and departure. After breakfast and checking out of the rooms there is a transfer to Timika airport. The Carstensz Pyramid climbing programme ends here and participants make their own way home.

• An experienced Mountain Guide leader, for groups of two or more participants
• Local guides who know the classic route and the current condition of the fixed ropes
• Helicopter flight from Timika to base camp and the return flight
• All transfers set out in the programme
• Twin-share hotel accommodation in Timika
• Arranging the permits required for the climb
• The compulsory environmental protection fee
• Three meals a day during the mountain part of the programme and at base camp
• Fuel for cooking at base camp
• A dining shelter for shared meals
• Fixing ropes on the technical sections of the route
• Group rock-climbing equipment
• Radios for communication between the guides and the participants
• A group first-aid kit
• Equipment, wages and insurance for the support staff

• International and domestic flights to Timika and back
• Indonesian visa
• Medical insurance for mountaineering covering an altitude of 4884 m, search and rescue and emergency evacuation
• Porter services
• Individual climbing and personal equipment
• Tips for the guides and the support staff
• Costs arising if the expedition is left early because of illness, a participant’s condition or other personal reasons
• Costs arising from the delay or cancellation of aircraft and helicopter flights
• Excess baggage charges above the set limit on the helicopter flight
• Hotel upgrades
• Single occupancy in hotels
• Additional costs connected with forced changes to the programme

Documents

• Valid passport.
• Flight tickets.
• Medical insurance.

Personal equipment:

• Backpack. 50-60l.
• Sleeping bag, comfort temperature from -15C to -5C.
• Sleeping mats.
• Trekking poles.
• Harness.
• Carabiners, 5 pieces.
• Mountaineering lanyard.
• Ascender.
• Belay device.
• Cup-Spoon-Bowl.
• Climbing helmet.

Clothing and footwear:

• Trekking boots.
• Trainers (for cities).
• Waterproof layer – jacket + trousers. The industry offers a wide range of products, from simple 5000/5000 membranes to Gore-Tex products.
• Fleece suit.
• Thermal underwear layer – top and bottom.
• Thick gloves.
• Thin gloves.
• Neckerchief.
• Cap.

Miscellaneous:

• LED Headlamp.
• Sunglasses.
• Gaiters.
• Sunscreen and lip balm.
• Chemical heaters (not essential, but can be very useful).
• Personal first aid kit.
• Elastic bandage and/or support bandage.