Ski Touring on Kazbek from the South, 7 Days

The southern route on Kazbek begins in Kazbegi, also known as Stepantsminda. The first acclimatisation outing goes to the Gergeti Trinity church at about 2170 m. The group then climbs by way of the Saberce Pass to the Meteo Station at 3600 m and makes a separate outing to 4000 m before the summit attempt.

The route crosses a glacier. Even with a comparatively clear line of travel, participants must be able to work with skins and ski crampons, move on a rope team and use mountaineering crampons and an ice axe. The upper part may require walking on firn or ice, so Kazbek cannot be presented as an easy ski tour for beginners.

Participants cover the snow-covered part of the approach on skis. In spring, horses are used only to carry separately paid loads and come up at most as far as the Saberce Pass; in deep snow the unloading point may be lower. Participants do not hand their skis to the horses and do not carry them along the route as separate freight.

The main accommodation on the mountain is the Meteo Station. Tents beside it are a reserve option in case there is no space, and they are used only after prior agreement. That format avoids promising a participant a night under canvas where none is needed, while keeping a workable option for busy dates.

During the ascent, the state of the glacier, the snow bridges, the upper couloir and the avalanche situation may require a changeover from skis to mountaineering crampons. The guide sets the start time, the line of travel, the turnaround point and the place where the ski descent begins. The summit and an unbroken descent from it are not guaranteed.

Ski-touring skis, boots, bindings, skins and ski crampons are not available for hire, so each participant brings their own complete compatible ski set.

Day 1. The group meets in Kazbegi. Participants make their own way to Kazbegi, also known as Stepantsminda, and check into the hotel. In the evening they meet the guide, go through the southern route and have their ski-touring, avalanche and glacier equipment checked. Particular attention is paid to the compatibility of skis, bindings, skins, ski crampons, boots and mountaineering crampons. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Acclimatisation outing to the Gergeti Trinity church, 2170 m. This unhurried outing helps acclimatisation begin without a sharp gain in altitude and at the same time lets the clothing, the footwear and the pace of the group be checked. After returning to Kazbegi, participants prepare their personal load for the mountain part and go over the use of the avalanche kit with the guide. Night in a hotel.

Day 3. Climb to the Meteo Station, 3600 m, by way of the Saberce Pass, 3000 m. The group covers the snow-covered part of the approach on skis. The climb takes roughly 7 to 9 hours and is the main gain in altitude before the acclimatisation outing. In spring, horses, if they are ordered separately, carry loads at most as far as the Saberce Pass; in deep snow the unloading point may be lower. The main option for the night is the Meteo Station; tents beside it are used only as an agreed reserve option. Dinner and night at the Meteo Station.

Day 4. Acclimatisation and training outing to 4000 m. The group climbs above the Meteo Station without the aim of reaching the summit. The outing helps the body adapt and allows travel on skins, the use of ski crampons, the changeover to mountaineering crampons and roped work to be practised. The high point and the form of the descent are set by the guide according to the state of the glacier and of the participants. After returning, rest and preparation for an early start. Night at the Meteo Station.

Day 5. Summit attempt on Kazbek, 5033 m. An early start. The climb crosses the glacier on a rope team; on firn, ice and the upper section, mountaineering crampons and an ice axe are used. Every participant carries a personal ice screw on its own karabiner. An unbroken ascent and descent from the summit on skis are not guaranteed: the point at which the group changes to crampons, the turnaround point and the place where the ski descent begins are all set by the guide. After the attempt the group returns to the Meteo Station. Night at the Meteo Station.

Day 6. Reserve day or descent to Kazbegi. If conditions did not allow a summit attempt the day before, the day may be used for a second outing at the guide’s decision. If the ascent took place, the group descends to Kazbegi and checks into the hotel. The order of the descent depends on the state of the snow; in spring horses come up at most as far as the Saberce Pass, and the actual unloading point may be lower. In the evening, rest and the end of the mountain part of the programme. Night in a hotel if the group has descended.

Day 7. End of the programme. After breakfast, participants leave Kazbegi. A transfer to the airport or the railway station is arranged only on prior request and is not part of the standard list of transfers in the programme.

• Mountain Guide guides: a lead guide throughout the programme
• Assistant guides on summit day; no more than three participants to one guide
• Transfers from Kazbegi to the start of the mountain route and back
• Hotel accommodation in Kazbegi in twin rooms, for the number of nights set out in the programme
• Main accommodation on the mountain in the Meteo Station building
• Tented accommodation beside the Meteo Station only as a previously agreed reserve option
• Three meals a day on the mountain part of the route
• Breakfasts during the hotel stay
• Assistance with obtaining the necessary permits
• Group glacier and rescue equipment and a group first-aid kit

• International and domestic flights
• Transfers to Kazbegi and from Kazbegi after the programme ends
• Horses, porters and the carriage of personal baggage
• Lunches and dinners during the hotel stay
• Personal ski-touring, avalanche and mountaineering equipment
• Medical insurance and the costs of search and rescue, transport and evacuation
• The visa and other entry documents where these are required by the participant’s nationality
• Single occupancy
• Personal expenses, drinks, communications and additional services
• Costs arising from changes to the programme beyond the included scope of services

Documents:

• Passport
• international passport
• Airplane / Train Tickets
• Medical insurance

Personal equipment:

• Backpack. 60-80l.
• Sleeping bag, comfort temperature from -10°C to 0°C (from June to September inclusive), from -20°C to -10°C (from October to May inclusive).
• Sleeping mattress.
• Trekking poles.
• Crampons
• Ice ax. Classical.
• Harness.
• Carabiners – 3 pcs.
• Mountaineering Lanyard
• Ice screw on a separate carbine
• Personal dishes

Clothes and shoes:

• Climbing boots single-layer or double. Double – plastic or leather. Of plastic, we recommend Scarpa Vega – perhaps the warmest of all double boots.
• Sneakers trekking or boots trekking. In May and early June, you can still see snow at the first acclimatization exits, in which case the advantage of shoes over sneakers is undeniable. However, after mid-June and until the end of September they can be replaced with sneakers.
• Waterproof layer – Jacket + pants. The industry offers a range of products from simple membranes 5000/5000 to products from Gore-Tex.
• Fleece pants and jacket.
• Thermo underwear top + bottom.
• Down jacket. Thick and warm.
• Mittens are warm.
• Thick gloves.
• Thin gloves.
• Bandana (in addition to sun protection in the valley, it can be used to warm your throat or face in the cold)
• Hat warm.
• Warm trekking socks for climbing day

Miscellaneous:

• LED headlamp.
• Sunglasses.
• Ski goggles.
• Thermos – 1l. Better without a button in the lid.
• Windproof mask on the lower part of the face (you can replace it with a scarf with some success).
• Gaiters.
• Sunblock and lip balm.
• Chemical heating pads (not necessary, but can be very useful).
• Personal medical kit.
• Knee support