Climb Elbrus Individually

A private ascent of Elbrus is the chance to adapt the programme completely to your objectives, your experience, your physical preparation and the time you have. Climbing Elbrus with your own group means travelling the route with your own company or family, or accompanied by a personal guide, without joining a mixed group.

The format suits those who want to choose convenient dates, move at their own pace, receive the full attention of the guide and build the programme around their own aims.

In a private arrangement almost every element of the ascent can be configured:

• Any start date, subject to guide availability
• Any number of participants, from one person to a private group
• A personal guide on Elbrus, or the number of guides your group needs
• Any Elbrus route: the southern, northern or western slope, the traverses, the Cross programmes and other variants
• An individual acclimatisation programme
• A personal pace during the acclimatisation and the ascent
• The number of reserve days
• The choice of hotels, shelters and standard of comfort
• Additional services, excursions and a recreation programme for accompanying guests

Depending on the experience of the participants you can choose the classic ascent of Elbrus from the south, the more self-supported route from the north, the technically harder ascent from the west or other ways of climbing the mountain. It is equally possible to arrange a first encounter with Elbrus or a serious preparatory programme before higher summits.

A private ascent is particularly convenient for families, small groups of friends, experienced mountaineers and participants with unusual objectives. The driver meets only your group at the airport, the transfers are built around your schedule, and the personal guide is focused entirely on your team during the acclimatisation and the ascent.

The Elbrus region offers many options for individual preparation. You can add extra days for acclimatisation, include an excursion programme, choose comfortable accommodation or, on the contrary, build a more self-supported expedition with tented camps.

We organise private ascents of Elbrus on the basis of many years of team experience. We have worked on Elbrus since 2001, and our guides have extensive high-altitude experience and are among the most experienced specialists working on this mountain. We do not simply organise a route: we pass on the practical experience accumulated over thousands of ascents.

Why choose us for a private ascent of Elbrus:

• The Mountain Guide team, whom you can get to know on a separate page
• Extensive experience of running individual and private ascents of Elbrus
• No limit on the number of summit attempts within the programme — participants can use the reserve days according to the format chosen
• Good food at the hotel and at the shelter
• A hotel with comfortable rooms and conditions for recovery
• Mountain shelters along the programme, with the conditions needed for rest on the route
• Any missing equipment can be hired separately; the selection, the hire agreement, the payment and the correspondence are handled directly with the hire company

We can also arrange a separate recreation programme in the Elbrus region for accompanying guests and family members, so that they can spend the time comfortably while you are on the mountain.

A private ascent of Elbrus allows almost any element of the programme to be changed, from the dates and the route to the logistics, the accommodation and the composition of the guiding team. Safety nevertheless remains the first priority: the final tactics of the ascent are set by the lead guide, taking account of the participants’ preparation, the weather and the state of the route.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to the Elbrus region.

The base private programme is built on the nine-day southern route. The driver meets your group at the airport or the railway station, after which participants travel to the hotel in the Elbrus region. The time of the private transfer is agreed around the group’s arrival. After checking in there is an introduction to the guide and a review of the programme, clothing, boots and mountaineering equipment. If any kit is unsuitable, it has to be sorted out before the move into the high-altitude section. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 2. Acclimatisation hike on Cheget to 3000 m.

The first hike is made at your own pace on the slopes of Cheget. The aim of the day is to begin adapting to altitude, to spend several hours above the valley and to test trekking boots, clothing, rucksack and poles in movement. The guide watches how participants feel and adjusts the pace where necessary. After reaching the planned altitude the group descends to the hotel. High point about 3000 m, ascent about 1100 m, distance about 11 km. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 3. Hike to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall and the observatory, 3100 m.

The second acclimatisation day goes to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall and on to the observatory. A consecutive altitude gain shows how well the group has recovered after Cheget and adds several more hours of movement before the move up to the shelter. The private format makes it possible to settle on a steady pace for the group, but the altitude and the state of the route remain shared constraints. High point about 3100 m, ascent about 1200 m, distance about 13 km. After the descent participants pack for the high-altitude section. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 4. Move up to the shelter and hike to 4200 m.

The group transfers to the Azau meadow and rides the cable car up the southern slope of Elbrus.

In September the cable car may be closed for scheduled maintenance. If the cable car cannot be used, the guide decides the onward logistics according to the actual situation; a vehicle is hired for the ascent if necessary. If the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket, participants pay the difference. After settling into the shelter at 3888 m there is a short hike up to about 4200 m. The guide checks the fit of mountaineering boots and crampons, whether the warm clothing matches conditions and how participants react to a rapid altitude gain. High point about 4200 m, ascent during the hike about 312 m, distance about 2 km. Overnight in the shelter.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Pastukhov Rocks, 4700 m.

This is the main high-altitude hike before the ascent. Participants climb part of the future route in mountaineering boots and crampons, practise even movement and test their ability to work for a long period above 4000 m. The personal guide monitors the condition of each participant; if anyone feels worse, the high point of the hike can be reduced. High point about 4700 m, ascent about 812 m, distance about 6 km. After the descent the group rests in the shelter.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the ascent.

The day is for recovery and for preparing for the night start. Participants get their clothing, crampons, headtorches, flasks and personal equipment ready in advance. The guide briefs the group on the route, the pace, the stops, protection against cold and what to do if the weather or how someone feels deteriorates. Depending on the state of the slope there may be a short practical session. The final decision to set out is taken on the actual conditions. Overnight in the shelter.

Day 7. Ascent of the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m.

The departure on the classic southern route begins at night, usually between 02:00 and 04:00; the exact time is set by the guide. Depending on the condition of the participants and on conditions, part of the initial climb may be shortened using a snowcat. The route then passes the Pastukhov Rocks, the Traverse and the saddle to the West summit. On summit day the ratio of no more than three participants to one guide is maintained. The decision to continue or turn back is taken by the guide. After the summit the group descends by the same route to the shelter. High point 5642 m, ascent up to 1754 m, distance about 14 km. Overnight in the shelter.

Day 8. Reserve day and descent to the Elbrus region.

If the whole group was unable to begin an attempt because of conditions on the mountain, the reserve day is used for a repeat group attempt at no extra charge. If part of the group has already reached the summit, the attempt counts as completed and further departures for the remaining participants are paid separately. If the main ascent went to plan, the group packs, descends by cable car and returns to the hotel. If the reserve day is used, the guide decides the order of the subsequent descent, taking account of the time of return and the cable car’s operating hours. In the normal case the night is spent at the hotel.

Day 9. End of the programme.

After breakfast a private transfer takes the group to the airport or the railway station in Mineralnye Vody. The departure time is agreed in advance around the return tickets. This completes the base nine-day programme. A different route, additional days or a higher standard of comfort are quoted separately before booking.

The content of a private programme is put together around the chosen route, the dates, the number of participants, the standard of comfort and the budget. Before booking you receive a detailed programme and a final quotation. Once it is agreed, every service listed in it is part of the price with no hidden extras.

A private programme can include:

• A personal guide on Elbrus, or the number of guides your group needs
• The design of the route and the acclimatisation programme around the experience, physical preparation and objectives of the participants
• Private transfers from the airport or the railway station and back
• All necessary transfers and transport along the route
• Accommodation in the chosen hotels, mountain shelters or tented camps
• Single occupancy and separate rooms where that is possible
• Meals according to the format of the programme and the participants’ wishes
• The services of a cook where required
• Cable cars and the snowcat, where the chosen route provides for them
• Group mountaineering equipment: ropes, ice screws, radios, navigation equipment, a first aid kit and other necessary items
• Hire of personal equipment
• The necessary permits, registrations and passes
• Additional acclimatisation and reserve days
• Individual training sessions before the ascent
• An excursion programme and a stay in the Elbrus region for participants and accompanying guests
• Other services agreed in advance

A private ascent of Elbrus can be arranged either in a high-comfort format or as a sporting, self-supported expedition. Once we have discussed your objectives we prepare the route, the exact list of included services and the final price of the programme.

This is an individual project, so preferences are normally already accounted for.

Documents

• Valid passport
• Airline tickets
• Voucher (a form, which was sent to you for obtaining visa)
• Insurance

Personal equipment

• Backpack
• Sleeping bag
• Ski/trekking poles
• Crampons
• Ice axe
• Mountaineering Lanyard
• Helmet
• Harness
• 2 Carabines
• 2 meters of 5 or 6-10mm rope

Clothing and shoes.

• Wind and waterproof layer – Pants and Jacket. Gore-Tex, for example.
• Fleece pants and jacket
• Thermo underwear layer – top and bottom
• Dawn jacket.
• Mittens
• Thick gloves
• Thin gloves
• Bandana
• Warm hat
• Underwear, socks and so on
• Some warm socks for a summit day
• Balaclava
• Windproof face mask
• Gators
• Trekking shoes/trekking boots
• Double or triple boots

Travel Accessories

• Headlamp
• Shower accessories, toothpaste, toothbrush
• Sunglasses
• Ski goggles
• Vitamins
• Thermos (1 liter, better without button)
• Sunblock and lip balm
• Personal medical kit
• Spare contact lenses or glasses
• Knee supportsMountaineering Lanyard