Cross of Elbrus, South to North, 9 Days

The Cross of Elbrus from south to north is one of the fullest ways of climbing the highest summit in Europe. In a single long day at altitude participants climb the West summit at 5642 m and the East summit at 5621 m, cross the high part of the massif and finish the route by descending the northern slope.

Unlike a classic ascent of Elbrus, the group does not return the way it came up. The route starts on the southern side, passes over both summits and ends in the north. In one push participants cross the summit part of Elbrus and see two sides of the mountain that are quite different in character.

The Cross differs from the traverse of Elbrus from south to north in climbing both summits. It differs from the Two Summits of Elbrus programme in that after the summits the group does not return to the southern slope but descends by the northern route.

The order of the summits follows the logic of the route: the group climbs the West summit at 5642 m first, then the East summit at 5621 m, and only then descends to the north. That order keeps the descent clear of the large crevasse zones of the northern slope. The lead guide keeps the right to change the line taken, to shorten the route or to turn the group around if the weather, the state of the slopes or safety requires it.

Depending on the line chosen, the route may pass the saddle of Elbrus, the western slope of the East summit, the Motorcycle Couloir and other sections that are not part of a standard ascent of the West summit. After the summits the group descends to the high-mountain shelter on the northern slope and then continues to Emmanuel Glade.

In the area of the Motorcycle Couloir the remains of a Land Rover taken up Elbrus in 1997 are still there. The real value of the programme, however, lies not in individual objects but in the chance to climb both summits and to see the southern and northern sides of the mountain on one route.

The southern slope is distinguished by developed infrastructure, cable cars and the option of a snowcat on the initial part of the ascent. The northern side is considerably more self-supported: there are no cable cars and no resort infrastructure, and the route runs among glaciers, moraines and wide high-mountain spaces.

Climbing both summits and then descending to the north requires more endurance than a classic ascent of the West summit alone. After the first summit you have to keep enough strength to continue, to climb the second summit and to make a long descent. Good acclimatisation, an even pace and sensible management of effort therefore matter especially.

Participants move in crampons, use climbing harnesses and travel roped on individual sections where necessary. The programme gives experience of prolonged work above 5000 m, shows how the body reacts to altitude and lets you judge your readiness for longer mountain routes.

The Cross of Elbrus from the south suits physically prepared participants ready for a long day at altitude. Previous high-altitude experience is desirable, and preparation for the trip has to begin well in advance.

The programme can be treated as a test of preparation before expeditions to Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak, Khan Tengri, Aconcagua and other high summits. The Cross of Elbrus does not, however, replace the experience of a long self-supported expedition.

Even good physical condition does not guarantee that both summits will be climbed or that the route will finish on the northern slope. The lead guide may change the line taken, shorten the route or decide to turn back if the weather deteriorates, the safe time window runs out or a participant’s condition does not allow the ascent to continue.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to the Elbrus region.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the programme: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. We drive about 200 km to the hotel in the Baksan valley; the journey takes around three hours.

After checking in we gather for dinner and meet the guide and the other participants. We hold a briefing on the Cross of Elbrus south to north programme, acclimatisation, equipment and the safety rules. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 2. Acclimatisation hike on the slope of Cheget to 3000 m.

After breakfast we make the first acclimatisation hike on the slope of Cheget. A gradual altitude gain helps the body begin adapting to the lack of oxygen and to the effort ahead. We move at a calm pace, check trekking boots and clothing and watch how everyone feels.

After the descent we return to the hotel for lunch. The afternoon is for rest, or for selecting any missing clothing, boots and mountaineering equipment. Overnight at the hotel. High point of the day about 3000 m.

Day 3. Acclimatisation hike to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall and the observatory, 3100 m.

We climb to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall at about 2700 m and then continue to the observatory at 3100 m. A second consecutive acclimatisation hike allows more time at altitude and prepares participants for the move up to the high-altitude part of the programme.

After the descent we return to the hotel, rest and pack for the move up to the shelter. Overnight at the hotel. High point of the day about 3100 m.

Day 4. Move up to the high-mountain shelter and acclimatisation hike to 4200 m.

After breakfast we leave the hotel and ride the cable car up to the shelter on the southern slope of Elbrus.

In September the cable car may be closed for scheduled maintenance. If the cable car cannot be used, the guide decides the onward logistics according to the actual situation; a vehicle is hired for the ascent if necessary. If the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket, participants pay the difference. We settle in at 3888 m, rest and have a snack.

In the afternoon we make an acclimatisation hike to about 4200 m. We check equipment and judge how everyone feels after moving into the high-altitude zone. We then descend to the shelter, have dinner and rest. Overnight in the shelter. High point of the day about 4200 m.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Pastukhov Rocks at 4700 m.

We make the main acclimatisation hike of the programme, to the Pastukhov Rocks at about 4700 m. Participants continue adapting to the lack of oxygen, get used to moving in crampons and learn to hold an even pace at altitude.

The hike helps assess how the body reacts before the long ascent of both summits and the subsequent descent to the north. After reaching the planned point we return to the shelter to rest and recover. Overnight in the shelter. High point of the day about 4700 m.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the Cross of Elbrus.

The day is given to recovering strength before the main day. We check personal and group equipment and prepare rucksacks, clothing, flasks and the food provided by the programme.

The lead guide gives the final briefing and confirms the order of the summits — West first, then East — the specifics of the descent to the northern slope and what the group does if the weather or the state of the route changes. After an early dinner we go to bed. Overnight in the shelter.

Day 7. Ascent of the West and East summits of Elbrus and descent to the north.

We leave the shelter at night, usually between 02:00 and 04:00. The exact start time is decided by the lead guide according to the forecast, the state of the slopes and the readiness of the group. By prior arrangement the initial part of the climb can be covered by snowcat.

In a single long day at altitude the group climbs the West summit of Elbrus at 5642 m and the East summit at 5621 m, and then descends by the northern route. The summits are climbed in the order West then East. The actual line taken and whether the route can continue are decided by the lead guide according to the state of the snow and ice, the pace of the participants, the time in hand and the safe weather window.

Whether the group can continue to the second summit is judged on the route itself. On summit day the ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide. After completing the Cross of Elbrus from south to north we descend to the shelter on the northern slope. Overnight in the shelter. High point of the day 5642 m.

Day 8. Reserve day, or descent to Emmanuel Glade.

If the weather or the state of the route prevented the ascent on the main day, the reserve is used for a further attempt at the lead guide’s decision. After the West and East summits the group descends to the shelter on the northern slope, and the onward schedule depends on when the route is completed.

If the ascent took place on day 7, we descend from the northern shelter to Emmanuel Glade. Transport meets the group there for the drive to Mineralnye Vody. We check in and rest at the hotel. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 9. End of the programme and departure.

If the reserve day was not needed, a transfer is arranged after breakfast from the hotel to the airport or the railway station in Mineralnye Vody.

If the ascent took place on the reserve day, the group completes the northern descent in the morning, travels from Emmanuel Glade to Mineralnye Vody and continues to the airport or the station. We recommend choosing evening flights and trains so that there is a margin in case the schedule changes because of the weather or the length of the high-altitude route.

• Professional guides — a lead guide accompanies the group throughout the programme, and assistant guides join for summit day. The ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide, so a group of four participants is accompanied by two guides
• Repeat group summit attempts within the programme at no extra charge. If part of the group reaches the summit, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts for the remaining participants are paid separately
• The services of a cook
• Hotel accommodation in twin rooms for all nights set out in the programme
• Accommodation in the mountain shelters on the southern and northern slopes of Elbrus for all nights set out in the programme
• All transfers within the programme, including cable cars, from Mineralnye Vody airport or railway station and back
• Three meals a day throughout the programme, from dinner on the first day to breakfast on the day of departure
• Group mountaineering and emergency equipment — ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and a group first aid kit
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• The snowcat on summit day. Where it is used, The snowcat is charged by the operator at the current season tariff and is paid separately on the spot. We always try to agree additional benefits for our guests with our partners, so where it is possible early check-in or late check-out is provided free of charge
• Personal equipment
• Lunches and dinners in Mineralnye Vody
• Additional services and costs arising from deviating from the programme or changing it, including the work of guides and cooks, transport and accommodation
• The supplement for an alternative ascent by vehicle if the cable car is closed for maintenance in September and the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket

Documents:

• Valid passport.
• Airline tickets.
• Voucher (a form sent to you to obtain a visa).
• Insurance cover.

Personal equipment:

• Backpack.
• Sleeping Bag.
• Ski/Touring poles be sure to have rings of at least 70 mm.
• Crampons.
• Ice axe.
• Climbing lanyard.
• Climbing helmet.
• Harness.
• 5 carabiners.
• 7 metres of 5 or 6 mm rope.

Clothing and shoes:

• Wind and waterproof layer – trousers and jacket. For example, Gore-Tex.
• Fleece trousers and jacket.
• Thermal underwear layer – top and bottom.
• Dawn jacket.
• Gloves or mittens.
• Thick gloves.
• Thin gloves.
• Neckerchief.
• Warm hat.
• Underwear, socks, etc.
• A pair of warm socks for a summit day.
• Balaclava.
• Windproof face mask.
• Gators.
• Trekking shoes/boots.
• Double or triple boots.

Travel Accessories:

• Headlamps.
• Shower gel, toothpaste, toothbrush.
• Sunglasses.
• Ski Goggles.
• Vitamin tablets.
• Thermos (1 litre, preferably without a lid).
• Sun block and lip balm.
• Personal medical kit.
• Extra pair of contact lenses or glasses.
• Knee support.