Elbrus Traverse South to North, two summits

The “Cross of Elbrus” is a complicated version of the Elbrus Climb from the South and the Elbrus Climb from the North. It consists of climbing to both summits on one side of the mountain and descending on the opposite side. This is one of the most famous routes, which allows you to test your abilities before attempting higher peaks.
The “cross” of Elbrus can be climbed from north to south (more difficult) or from south to north. It is also possible to climb to the east summit of Elbrus and descend from there by three different routes – the Motorcycle Col (a Land Rover that was taken up there in 1997 is still there), along the rock of Elbrus Saddle (the western slope of the east summit of Elbrus) or on the south side (the easiest route).
We can recommend climbing the Elbrus “cross” as a training program for climbing Lenin Peak, Korjenevskoj Peak, Khan-Tengry, Island Peak, Mera Peak, Aconcagua and Ojos del Salado. It is possible to plan an overnight stay in tents on the Elbrus saddle.

We strongly recommend watching a lecture by our most experienced Elbrus guide about Elbrus.

Day 1. Arrival at MRV Airport. Departure from the airport at 12:00-12:15 for all arrivals on flights before 23:30. Departure from the airport at 15:15-15: 30 for all arrivals before 14:45. Transfer 200 km (3 hours) to the hotel. The hotel of the system is located at the beginning of the hundred-kilometre valley of the Baksan river, almost on the very slope of Elbrus. Gathering for dinner and instructing the group. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 2. Acclimatisation hike to Cheget. Descent on foot to the hotel. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 3. Acclimatisation hike to Maid’s Braids waterfall (2700m) and on to the observatory (3100m). Overnight at the hotel.
Day 4. Take a lift up to the hut and setting up the camp. After a snack, acclimatisation hike to 4400m, to the lower part of Pastukhov’s Rocks. Overnight at the hut.
Day 5. An acclimatisation hike to Pastukhov’s Rocks (4700m). Overnight at the hut.
Day 6. Rest day. Final preparations for the Elbrus summit. Overnight at the hut.
Day 7. Climb to the west summit of Elbrus (5642m) and to the east summit of Elbrus (5621m). The order of the summits can be changed by agreement between the guide and the group. The condition of the route on the summit day is also important. An early start at 2-4 a.m. allows the use of the snowcat. The ratio of client to guide is always 1:3. Descent to a hut in the north. Overnight at the hut.
Day 8. Reserve day. Descent to the Emmanuel clearing. Transfer to Mineralnye Vody. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 9. Departure to the airport, we recommend evening flights, so that in case of a late descent on day 8, you have the opportunity to arrive in Min.Vody in the morning of day 9.

• Guides: one lead guide for the South to North Elbrus program and several assistants for the day of the summit, with a strict ratio of one guide to three climbers. This means that if there are four clients in a group, there will be two guides for them. There is no limit to the number of attempts the group can make. However, if part of the group reaches the summit and some members fail, the ascent will be considered successful and any further attempts will be made for an additional fee.
• Services of a cook.
• Hotel accommodation in double rooms. Length of stay depends on the timetable. Be careful — check out of the hotel in Mineralnye Vody before 12:00
• Accommodation in huts. Duration of stay depends on the schedule of the Elbrus ascent.
• All transfers mentioned in the itinerary (including lifts) – from and to the airport/station.
• Meals three times a day throughout the trip before Mineralnye Vody. Dinner on the first day, breakfast on the last day.
• Breakfast in Mineralnye Vody.
• All necessary permits and registrations.
• Equipment for the group (ropes, ice screws, radios, first aid kit, satellite navigator/GPS).
• Rent a duffel bag for rental and personal equipment during the ascent.

• Snowcat on summit day
• Single accommodation
• Early check-in/late check-out from the hotel before/after the program (we always try to negotiate with our partners about additional bonuses for our guests, often we are allowed early check-in/late check-out for free)
• Personal equipment
• Any changes to the original itinerary
• Lunches and dinners in Mineralnye Vody
• Any costs caused by the changing of the programs

Documents:

• Valid passport.
• Airline tickets.
• Voucher (a form sent to you to obtain a visa).
• Insurance cover.

Personal equipment:

• Backpack.
• Sleeping Bag.
• Ski/Touring poles be sure to have rings of at least 70 mm.
• Crampons.
• Ice axe.
• Climbing lanyard.
• Climbing helmet.
• Harness.
• 5 carabiners.
• 7 metres of 5 or 6 mm rope.

Clothing and shoes:

• Wind and waterproof layer – trousers and jacket. For example, Gore-Tex.
• Fleece trousers and jacket.
• Thermal underwear layer – top and bottom.
• Dawn jacket.
• Gloves or mittens.
• Thick gloves.
• Thin gloves.
• Neckerchief.
• Warm hat.
• Underwear, socks, etc.
• A pair of warm socks for a summit day.
• Balaclava.
• Windproof face mask.
• Gators.
• Trekking shoes/boots.
• Double or triple boots.

Travel Accessories:

• Headlamps.
• Shower gel, toothpaste, toothbrush.
• Sunglasses.
• Ski Goggles.
• Vitamin tablets.
• Thermos (1 litre, preferably without a lid).
• Sun block and lip balm.
• Personal medical kit.
• Extra pair of contact lenses or glasses.
• Knee support.