Cross of Elbrus, North to South, 10 Days

The Cross of Elbrus from north to south follows the same general logic as the traverse of Elbrus in the same direction. Acclimatisation takes place on the northern side, the main day starts from the shelter at 3700 m, and after the summit the group descends to the southern slope. The essential difference is that not one but both summits of Elbrus are climbed in a single long day at altitude.

The additional summit changes the character of the route substantially. After a long climb from the northern side you have to keep enough strength for the descent to the saddle, for a fresh altitude gain, for the second summit and for the continued descent to the south. The Cross of Elbrus from north to south is therefore among the most demanding programmes on the mountain and requires more serious physical preparation than a classic ascent or an ordinary traverse.

On summit day participants gain about 2000 m of altitude to the first summit. The crossing to the second adds roughly a further 350 m of ascent, after which a long descent to the southern side of Elbrus lies ahead. The actual effort depends on the state of the snow and ice, the weather, the line chosen and the pace of the group, but in any case this is one of the longest days at altitude among our Elbrus programmes.

Acclimatisation begins on the northern slope, where there are no cable cars and no developed resort infrastructure. Participants live in mountain shelters, carry equipment up and make consecutive acclimatisation hikes. That format allows a gradual adjustment to altitude, to self-supported living and to long physical work.

The northern side shows a different Elbrus, with wide moraine fields, glaciers, volcanic landforms and views of the night-time towns of the Caucasian Mineral Waters. After the East and West summits the group descends to the southern slope with its cable cars, high-mountain shelters and developed infrastructure.

It is precisely the combination of two summits and the crossing of the whole massif that distinguishes the Cross both from an ordinary ascent of Elbrus from the north and from the traverse from north to south. Participants do not return the way they came up but pass in sequence over two quite different sides of the mountain.

The exact order in which the East and West summits are climbed is decided by the lead guide. One variant is to climb the East summit from the northern side, cross the saddle, climb the West summit and then descend by the southern route. The order and the actual line taken may be changed to take account of the weather, the state of the slopes, the speed of the group and the length of the safe time window.

During the ascent participants move in crampons, use climbing harnesses and travel roped on individual sections where necessary. After the first summit it is important to hold an even pace and to keep on top of eating, drinking and your own condition, because a significant part of the route still lies ahead.

A long stretch of work above 5000 m shows the quality of the acclimatisation and each participant’s individual reaction to altitude. Good physical condition does not guarantee that the lack of oxygen will be easy to bear.

The Cross of Elbrus from north to south suits well-prepared participants with experience of long physical efforts. Previous high-altitude experience is desirable, and preparation has to begin well in advance.

The programme is often chosen before an ascent of Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak, Muztagh Ata and other high-altitude expeditions. It helps you test your endurance, your ability to hold a pace and your readiness to keep going after the first big objective. A successful Cross of Elbrus does not, however, guarantee success on a 7000 m peak: long expeditions differ in their self-sufficiency, in multi-day effort and in accumulated fatigue.

Even with good preparation, completing both summits cannot be guaranteed. The lead guide may limit the route to one summit, change the order of movement, choose a different descent or decide to turn back if the weather deteriorates, the safe time window runs out or a participant’s condition does not allow the ascent to continue.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to Emmanuel Glade.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the programme: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. After meeting the guide and the other participants we drive to Emmanuel Glade, the starting point of the route.

We settle into the shelter, rest after the journey and gather for dinner. A detailed briefing then covers the Cross of Elbrus north to south programme, acclimatisation, equipment and the safety rules. The guide explains the sequence of the high-altitude hikes, the specifics of climbing both summits and the subsequent descent to the southern side of the mountain. Overnight in the shelter at Emmanuel Glade.

Day 2. Additional acclimatisation hike around Emmanuel Glade.

After breakfast we make an unhurried out-and-back hike from base camp. The guide sets the exact route, its length and its high point according to the weather, conditions on the ground and how the group feels. The purpose of the day is to begin adapting to altitude without a sharp gain, to test clothing and boots in movement and to prepare the body for the next hike to 3700 m. After returning we rest and prepare equipment. Dinner and overnight in the shelter.

Day 3. Acclimatisation hike to the high shelter at 3700 m and equipment carry.

After breakfast we make the first acclimatisation hike on the northern route of Elbrus. We climb to the shelter at about 3700 m, moving at a calm pace and watching how everyone feels. The first altitude gain begins the adaptation to the lack of oxygen and introduces the character of the northern slope.

On the way up we carry part of the equipment and supplies that will be needed at the high camp, which reduces the weight of the rucksacks on the final move the following day. After a rest by the shelter we descend to Emmanuel Glade, have dinner and prepare to return to the high-altitude zone. Overnight in the shelter at Emmanuel Glade. High point of the day about 3700 m.

Day 4. Move up to the high shelter at 3700 m.

After breakfast we climb the familiar route again with the remaining personal items and equipment. Today we do not return to Emmanuel Glade but move into the high shelter, where the main part of the acclimatisation and the preparation for the ascent will take place.

After settling in we organise our space, rest and check the equipment carried up earlier. In the evening the lead guide discusses with the group how everyone feels, the weather forecast and the plan for the hike to the Lenz Rocks. Overnight in the shelter at about 3700 m.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Lenz Rocks at 4700 m.

After breakfast we begin the main acclimatisation hike of the programme, climbing to the Lenz Rocks at about 4700 m. A long stretch of work well above the place where we sleep lets participants check how the body reacts to altitude and prepare for the coming ascent of both summits of Elbrus.

We move at the pace set by the guide, watch how everyone feels and learn to spread effort evenly over a long altitude gain. After reaching the Lenz Rocks, or the turnaround point set by the lead guide, we descend to the shelter, have dinner and recover. Overnight in the shelter at about 3700 m. High point of the day about 4700 m. Ascent about 1000 m.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the Cross of Elbrus.

The day is given to recovering after the acclimatisation hike. Sleeping properly, restoring strength and avoiding unnecessary effort before the main stage of the programme all matter. We check personal and group equipment and prepare rucksacks, warm clothing, crampons, harnesses, headtorches, flasks, water and the food provided by the programme.

The lead guide gives the final briefing. We go through the expected order of the East and West summits, the movement across the saddle, how the group works together and the specifics of the long descent to the southern slope. Separately we pack the items that will not be needed during the summits and that will be handed to the porters. After an early dinner we go to bed. Overnight in the shelter at about 3700 m.

Day 7. Ascent of the East and West summits of Elbrus and descent to the southern slope.

We leave the shelter at night, usually between 02:00 and 04:00. The exact start time is decided by the lead guide according to the forecast, the state of the slopes and the readiness of the group. Before setting out we hand the porters the items that will not be needed during the Cross of Elbrus. They are taken to the Dzhyly-Su springs and then on to the hotel in Mineralnye Vody.

In the planned variant we climb the northern route to the East summit of Elbrus at 5621 m, descend to the saddle and continue to the West summit at 5642 m. The order of the summits and the actual line taken may be changed by the lead guide, who takes account of the weather, the state of the snow and ice, the speed of the group and the length of the safe time window.

After the first summit you have to keep enough strength for the further altitude gain, for the second summit and for the long descent to the south. Whether the route can continue is judged on the spot. On summit day the ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide.

After the summits we descend by the southern route and settle into the high-mountain shelter. Overnight in the shelter on the southern slope of Elbrus. High point of the day 5642 m.

Day 8. Reserve day for the ascent of Elbrus.

If strong wind, snowfall, poor visibility, the state of the route or the condition of the group prevented the ascent from starting on the main day, the reserve is used for a further attempt at the lead guide’s decision. In that case the group climbs the East and West summits and, in safe conditions, descends to the shelter on the southern side of Elbrus.

If the Cross of Elbrus from north to south was completed on the main summit day, participants rest in the shelter, recover after the long day at altitude and sort out their clothing and equipment. The lead guide decides whether the reserve day is used and what the onward schedule is, taking account of the actual situation on the mountain. Overnight in the shelter on the southern slope.

Day 9. Descent from the southern slope and return to Mineralnye Vody.

After breakfast we leave the high-mountain shelter and descend from the southern slope of Elbrus. Returning to the developed infrastructure of the southern side completes the active part of the route.

After the descent we drive to Mineralnye Vody and check into the hotel. The remaining time is for rest and recovery after the self-supported acclimatisation in the north, the ascent of both summits and the crossing of the whole Elbrus massif. Overnight at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody.

Day 10. End of the programme and departure.

After breakfast a transfer is arranged to the airport or to the railway station in Mineralnye Vody. We recommend choosing evening flights and trains so that there is a margin in case the schedule changes because of the weather, the use of the reserve day or the length of the high-altitude route.

This completes the Cross of Elbrus from north to south.

• Hotel accommodation in twin rooms for all nights set out in the programme. Please note that hotel check-out is by 12:00.
• Accommodation in the mountain shelters for all nights set out in the programme
• All transfers within the programme
• Three meals a day during the mountain part of the programme, beginning with dinner on the first day
• Breakfasts at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody as set out in the programme
• Professional guides — a lead guide accompanies the group throughout the programme, and assistant guides join for summit day. The ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide. This does not mean the main group is automatically divided into separate small groups
• Repeat group summit attempts within the programme at no extra charge. If part of the group reaches the summit, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts for the remaining participants are paid separately
• Group mountaineering and emergency equipment — ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and other necessary items
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• Single occupancy supplement
• National park permit, if one is required for the route
• Personal equipment
• Additional work by guides and the cook if the programme changes
• Lunches and dinners during the stay at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody
• Other costs arising from deviating from the programme or changing it, including additional transport and accommodation

Documents:

• Valid passport
• Airline tickets
• Voucher (a form sent to you to obtain a visa)
• Insurance cover

Personal equipment:

• Backpack
• Sleeping Bag
• Ski/Touring poles be sure to have rings of at least 70 mm
• Crampons
• Ice axe
• Climbing lanyard
• Climbing helmet
• Harness
• 5 carabiners
• 7 metres of 5 or 6 mm rope

Clothing and shoes:

• Wind and waterproof layer – trousers and jacket. For example, Gore-Tex.
• Fleece trousers and jacket
• Thermal underwear layer – top and bottom
• Dawn jacket.
• Gloves or mittens
• Thick gloves
• Thin gloves
• Neckerchief
• Warm hat
• Underwear, socks, etc.
• A pair of warm socks for a summit day
• Balaclava
• Windproof face mask
• Alligators
• Trekking shoes/boots
• Double or triple boots

Travel Accessories

• Headlamps
• Shower gel, toothpaste, toothbrush
• Sunglasses
• Ski Goggles
• Vitamin tablets
• Thermos (1 litre, preferably without a lid)
• Sun block and lip balm
• Personal medical kit
• Extra pair of contact lenses or glasses
• Knee support