Climb Elbrus from the North, 10 Days

Please note: to avoid any disagreement between participants, we always climb the higher West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, and not the East summit, 5621 m.

The route begins at Emmanuel Glade. After arrival the group spends an additional acclimatisation day in the area of base camp. Participants then make an acclimatisation hike up to the shelter at 3700 m and return to the glade; the following day they move up to the same shelter to live there and prepare for the summit.

The next acclimatisation hike goes to the Lenz Rocks at 4700 m. After it the group returns to the shelter and has a full rest day. This sequence helps the body adapt to the lack of oxygen and recover before the ascent. Altitude nevertheless affects every person differently, and good physical condition does not guarantee easy acclimatisation.

The summit attempt starts from the shelter at 3700 m. The group climbs the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, and returns by the same route. The following day is held in reserve and is used if the ascent has to be postponed because of weather or the condition of the group.

On the north route it is not possible to shorten either the ascent or the descent with a cable car. Every metre of altitude is covered on foot, so the main difficulties are sustained physical load, cold, wind and the need to manage your effort correctly. The lead guide decides the start time, the pace and whether the ascent can continue, taking account of the weather and the condition of the group.

The northern side shows a completely different Elbrus. Here you find ancient moraines, mountain streams, wide snowfields and unusual lava formations. In clear weather the Caucasian Mineral Waters region is visible from the route, and at night the lights of distant towns.

At about 3000 m there is a large plateau resembling a natural airfield. During the Second World War it was used by German forces for landing troops.

If a cable car, a hotel in the valley and developed tourist infrastructure matter more to you, the nine-day south route ascent of Elbrus is the better choice. The north route offers a different format: the full altitude gain on foot and more time spent in the mountains themselves.

It is best to start physical preparation well in advance.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to Emmanuel Glade.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the programme: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. After the drive to Emmanuel Glade we settle into the shelter and have dinner. The guide then gives a detailed briefing covering the programme, the logic of the acclimatisation plan, the order of movement, how the group works together and the main safety requirements. Overnight in the shelter.

Day 2. Additional acclimatisation hike around Emmanuel Glade.

After breakfast we make an unhurried out-and-back hike from base camp. The guide sets the exact route, its length and its high point according to the weather, conditions on the ground and how the group feels. The purpose of the day is to begin adapting to altitude without a sharp gain, to test clothing and boots in movement and to prepare the body for the next hike to 3700 m. After returning we rest and prepare equipment. Dinner and overnight in the shelter.

Day 3. Acclimatisation hike and equipment carry to the shelter at 3700 m.

After breakfast we make the first acclimatisation hike up to the high shelter at 3700 m. The aim of the day is not speed but a steady gain in altitude and a first check of how the body reacts to high mountains. At the same time participants carry up part of their personal and the group equipment, so that the following day’s move carries less weight. After a rest by the shelter we descend to Emmanuel Glade. Climbing higher and sleeping lower continues the gradual acclimatisation. Dinner and overnight in the shelter.

Day 4. Move up to the high shelter at 3700 m.

We climb the now familiar route to the high shelter. We move at a calm pace and do not force the altitude gain, even if everyone feels well. After settling in we rest and observe how the body responds to the first night at 3700 m. In the evening the guide assesses the condition of the group, checks that participants are ready and confirms the plan for the next acclimatisation hike. Overnight in the shelter at 3700 m.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Lenz Rocks at 4700 m.

We climb to the Lenz Rocks at 4700 m, roughly 1000 m above the shelter. This hike is needed for further adaptation and to check how participants feel at an altitude close to the upper part of the route. The main task is to reach the planned altitude and keep enough strength for a safe return. After reaching the point set by the guide we descend to the shelter at 3700 m. Gaining altitude by day and sleeping lower again continues the acclimatisation before the ascent. Overnight in the shelter.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the ascent of Elbrus.

The rest day is a full part of the programme, not simply free time. After the hike to the Lenz Rocks the body needs to recover before a long day of work at altitude. We check personal and group equipment and prepare clothing, boots and everything else that is needed. The guide gives the final briefing and goes through the order of movement, the pace, communication within the group and what to do if the weather changes or someone begins to feel unwell. Overnight in the shelter at 3700 m.

Day 7. Ascent of the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, by the north route.

We set out at night, usually between 02:00 and 04:00. The exact start time is decided by the lead guide on the basis of the forecast, the actual weather, the state of the slope and the readiness of the group. The climb to the West summit normally takes 10–12 hours, and the descent to the shelter a further 4–6 hours. The duration depends on the pace of the participants and on conditions along the route. The guide controls the speed of movement and decides whether the ascent can continue. After reaching the summit we make a short stop and begin the descent. The ascent ends not on the summit but when the whole group is safely back at the shelter. Overnight in the shelter at 3700 m.

Day 8. Reserve day for the ascent, or an unhurried descent to base camp.

If the weather or the condition of the group prevented the ascent on the main day, the reserve is used for a second attempt. The decision is taken by the lead guide on the basis of the actual conditions, and the existence of a reserve day is not in itself a guarantee that the group will set out. If the ascent took place on day 7, the group descends without haste from the high shelter to Emmanuel Glade after breakfast, and spends the night in the shelter at base camp on Emmanuel Glade. If the reserve day is used for the ascent, the group spends the night in the high shelter after returning.

Day 9. Descent from the northern slope of Elbrus and return to Mineralnye Vody.

If the ascent took place on day 7, transport meets the group at Emmanuel Glade after breakfast for the drive to Mineralnye Vody. If the reserve day 8 was used for the ascent, the group descends from the high shelter to Emmanuel Glade after breakfast, where transport is waiting. After the drive we check into the hotel and rest. In the evening participants can gather for a celebratory dinner. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 10. End of the programme and departure.

After breakfast a transfer is arranged to the airport or to the railway station in Mineralnye Vody. We recommend choosing evening flights and trains so that there is a margin in case the reserve day is used or the schedule changes for other weather-related reasons.

• Hotel accommodation in Mineralnye Vody — twin rooms for all nights set out in the programme. Please note that hotel check-out is by 12:00.
• Accommodation in the shelters for all nights set out in the programme
• All transfers within the programme, including the drive from Mineralnye Vody to Emmanuel Glade and back
• Three meals a day during the mountain part of the programme, from dinner on the day of arrival to breakfast on the day of descent
• Breakfasts during the stay at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody
• Permits and registrations for the route, with the exact scope and the responsibility of each side confirmed before booking
• Professional guides — a lead guide accompanies the group throughout the programme, and assistant guides join the group on summit day. The ratio is strict: no more than three climbers to one guide, and the group still moves together
• Summit attempts on the main and the reserve day at no extra charge. If part of the group reaches the summit, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts for the remaining participants are paid separately
• Group mountaineering and emergency equipment — ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and other necessary items
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• Single occupancy at the hotel
• Personal equipment and the hire of it
• Additional work by guides and cooks if the programme changes
• Lunches and dinners during the stay at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody
• Medical insurance
• Any costs arising from changes to the programme

No aluguel Rock-and-Rent há absolutamente tudo, de nível alto e de excelente qualidade — você pode chegar até mesmo de bermuda (especialmente se reservar tudo com antecedência, entregamos também no norte do Elbrus). Nós selecionamos todo o equipamento apenas com base em um único fator: máxima adequação às condições do Elbrus, onde guiamos desde 2001!

E sim, elaboramos esta lista com muito cuidado — no total, os guias da empresa realizaram vários milhares de ascensões, e não acreditamos que nela haja algo supérfluo!

Documentos:

• Passaporte
• Bilhetes de avião / trem
• Seguro médico
• Voucher (para estrangeiros)

Equipamento pessoal:

• Mochila, 50–60 litros
• Baú de transporte 60–100 litros
• Saco de dormir, temperatura de conforto de -15°C a -5°C (de junho a setembro inclusive), de -30°C a -15°C (de outubro a maio inclusive)
• Bastões de trekking obrigatoriamente com anéis de pelo menos 70 mm
• Crampons
• Piolet clássico, com cordim de 5–6 mm para fixação no arnês (2–3 metros)
• Parafuso de gelo com mosquetão separado
• Arnês de alpinismo
• Capacete
• Mosquetões, 5 unidades (idealmente pelo menos 3 grandes — muito mais convenientes para trabalhar com luvas grossas)
• Fitas de segurança pessoal

Roupas e calçados:

• A roupa de esqui serve para o Elbrus?
• Botas de alpinismo duplas/triplas — plásticas ou de couro
• Botas de trekking
• Camada impermeável — jaqueta + calças, membrana recomendada a partir de 10.000/10.000 ou superior
• Conjunto de fleece
• Roupa térmica superior + inferior
• Jaqueta de penas, grossa e quente, peso normal para o Elbrus a partir de 700 g
• Mitones quentes
• Luvas grossas (de esqui)
• Luvas finas (fleece)
• Bandana (além da proteção solar no vale, pode ser usada para aquecer o rosto ou a garganta no frio)
• Gorro
• Meias térmicas de trekking para o dia de cume
• Chapéu / boné contra o sol
• Calças de trekking e camisetas, preferencialmente com mangas longas
• Meias de trekking para os dias de trilha, preferencialmente conforme o número de dias

Diversos:

• Lanterna frontal LED com tempo de funcionamento mínimo de 24 horas
• Óculos de sol, categoria de proteção 3–4, devem proteger totalmente também pelas laterais
• Máscara de esqui, categoria 1–2 (para mau tempo, não para bom tempo)
• Garrafa térmica 1 litro, preferencialmente sem botão na tampa
• Máscara corta-vento para a parte inferior do rosto (com alguma sorte pode ser substituída por um cachecol)
• Protetor solar de marca, SPF 30–50
• Bálsamo labial SPF-15
• Kit de primeiros socorros pessoal
• Bandagem elástica e/ou suporte articular
• Polainas (não obrigatório, mas úteis em maio–junho)
• Aquecedores químicos (não obrigatório, mas podem ser muito úteis)