Climbing Mount Kenya: Point Lenana, 4,985 m

Mount Kenya is an ancient extinct stratovolcano whose period of activity is placed at roughly 3.1 to 2.6 million years ago. The volcano is thought to have originally reached about 6,500 m, but long glacial erosion destroyed its upper part and formed the sharp summits, moraines, high-altitude lakes and deep valleys that radiate from the centre of the massif. Rapidly shrinking glaciers survive on the mountain, and the massif itself remains one of the most important water catchments in East Africa.

The first European to report a snow-covered mountain near the equator was the German missionary Johann Ludwig Krapf in 1849. His observations were met with scepticism at first, and the existence of the mountain was confirmed by the Scottish explorer Joseph Thomson in 1883. Mount Kenya National Park was created in 1949, and in 1997 the national park and the natural forest reserve were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

The main natural feature of the route is the rapid change of altitude zones. Mountain forest and bamboo thickets give way to heather moorland, afro-alpine meadows, giant lobelias and tree groundsels. Higher up begin the screes, the rock walls, the snow and the glaciers. Elephants, buffalo, leopards and other animals live on the lower slopes, but meeting them is a matter of chance and is not part of the programme. Higher on the mountain you are more likely to see rock hyraxes and birds.

Climbing Mount Kenya brings together two fundamentally different objectives. Point Lenana, 4,985 m, is a high-altitude summit accessible to prepared trekkers. Batian, 5,199 m, is the highest point of Mount Kenya and a serious technical objective for experienced mountaineers. Nelion, 5,188 m, alongside it, also requires a full rock climb. Even the simplest routes on Batian and Nelion are graded IV on the UIAA scale and involve multi-pitch climbing, setting up belays and long abseils. Mountain Guide separates these formats from the outset and does not present the Point Lenana trek as reaching the highest point of the massif.

The main eight-day programme leads to Point Lenana by the Chogoria to Sirimon route. After the approach from Chogoria the group passes the area of the Nithi river and the Gates waterfall, climbs the ridge above the Gorges valley and reaches the Hall Tarns. From there it looks down on Lake Michaelson. The route then continues through Square Tarn, the American Camp and the high part of the summit circuit. After the ascent of Point Lenana the group descends through Shipton’s Camp by the Sirimon route. The ascent and the descent run on different sides of the massif, so participants see the central summits, the glaciers and the valleys of Mount Kenya from different angles.

Technical mountaineering experience is not required for Point Lenana, but an altitude of almost 5,000 m, cold, long days of walking and rapidly changing weather all call for good physical condition. A gradual gain in altitude and intermediate overnight stops help acclimatisation but do not remove the risk of altitude sickness. The upper part of the route may cross scree, snow or iced ground. Depending on the actual conditions, the guide may add crampons or microspikes and an ice axe to the final equipment list.

An ascent of Batian or Nelion is organised separately and is not part of the base programme. A technical route requires confirmed experience of multi-pitch climbing, a separate qualified mountaineering guide, special personal and group equipment and additional days. The choice of summit, route and season depends on the condition of the north or south faces and on the decision of the technical guide.

With a group of four participants or more, a Mountain Guide team leader accompanies the trekking programme. Before the trip you should build general endurance, strengthen your legs and get used to long days of walking with a rucksack.

The eight-day programme leads to the trekking summit of Point Lenana, 4,985 m, by the Chogoria to Sirimon route, taking in part of the summit circuit. Technical ascents of Batian, 5,199 m, and Nelion, 5,188 m, are not part of this programme and are arranged separately.

Day 1. Arrival in Nairobi and the transfer to the Chogoria route.

A representative of the team meets participants at Nairobi airport. Once the group is assembled there is a transfer to the village of Chogoria, lunch and preparation for the start of the mountain section. Participants then drive up in four-wheel-drive transport to the Meru huts at the boundary of the national park. A night at altitude allows acclimatisation to begin before the first long day of walking. Night in the Meru huts.

Day 2. The start of the trek on the Chogoria route.

The team sets out from the Meru huts and passes the area of the Nithi river and the Gates waterfall. The trail climbs gradually through mountain forest and the bamboo zone to the open slopes above the Gorges valley. The first day helps the group settle into a working rhythm and continue its gradual adaptation to altitude. Night in a tented camp on the Chogoria route.

Day 3. To the Hall Tarns.

The route continues along the ridge above the Gorges valley to the high-altitude Hall Tarns. As height is gained, forest gives way to heather moorland and afro-alpine vegetation with giant lobelias and tree groundsels. From the upper part of the route there are views of Lake Michaelson, rock walls and the central summits of the massif. Night in tents near the Hall Tarns.

Day 4. The summit circuit and the crossing to the American Camp.

The team moves onto the high part of the Mount Kenya summit circuit, passes the area of Square Tarn and rounds the central massif from the south. The way crosses rocky ground with close views of Point Lenana, Nelion and Batian. After the height gained, participants descend to the American Camp in the upper part of the Teleki valley. This crossing gives additional acclimatisation before the ascent. Night in tents at the American Camp.

Day 5. The ascent of Point Lenana, 4,985 m, and the descent to Shipton’s Camp.

The team sets out before dawn and climbs from the American Camp to the area of the Austrian Hut, from where it continues to Point Lenana at 4,985 m. In favourable weather participants meet the sunrise on the summit and see Batian, Nelion, the glaciers and the high valleys of the massif. After the ascent the group descends the northern side of the mountain to Shipton’s Camp. This is the longest and most physically demanding day of the programme. Night at Shipton’s Camp.

Day 6. The descent by the Sirimon route.

The team descends from Shipton’s Camp through the Mackinder valley and the high plateaux of the Sirimon route. As height is lost, rocky ground gives way to afro-alpine meadows, heather moorland and mountain forest. The day finishes in the area of the Judmeier camp, also known as Old Moses. Night in camp.

Day 7. Out through the Sirimon gate and back to Nairobi.

Participants walk the final section of the route through forest to the Sirimon gate. After leaving the national park the group transfers to Nairobi and checks into a hotel. The rest of the day is for recovering after the climb. Night at the hotel.

Day 8. End of the programme.

After breakfast participants check out of the hotel. Transfer to Nairobi international airport and the flight home.

The order of the high-altitude stages, the times of departure and the direction of travel on individual sections of the summit circuit may change depending on the weather, the state of the trail, snow and ice conditions, acclimatisation and how participants feel. The final decision is taken by the guide.

• A Mountain Guide team leader accompanying the group, with four participants or more
• The work of a qualified local mountain guide
• The work of a cook and porters to carry the group equipment
• Meeting at the airport and all the transfers set out in the programme
• Hotel accommodation, for the number of nights set out in the programme
• Accommodation in tents during the mountain section of the programme
• Full board during the mountain section of the programme
• National park entry fees and the permits required for the Point Lenana route
• A group first-aid kit
• Group camp and kitchen equipment

• International flights
• An eTA electronic authorisation or other entry document, where the participant requires one
• Medical insurance covering high-altitude trekking to 4,985 m, search and rescue, and evacuation
• Single occupancy
• Additional nights in Nairobi before or after the programme
• Early check-in and late check-out at the hotel
• Lunches and dinners in Nairobi
• Alcoholic and soft drinks
• Personal snacks and specialist sports nutrition
• Personal clothing, footwear, trekking equipment and a sleeping bag
• Hire of personal equipment
• Carriage of personal luggage above the agreed limit
• Tips for the local guide, the cook and the porters
• Personal expenses
• Rescue and evacuation costs not covered by the insurance policy
• Any departure from the main programme and the costs arising from it
• The technical ascent of Batian, 5,199 m, or Nelion, 5,188 m, including the additional days, the technical mountain guide, the mountaineering equipment, the separate permits and the change to the mountain logistics