The West summit of Elbrus stands at 5642 m. It is 21 m higher than the East summit and counts as the high point of Russia and of Europe. It is the summit people usually have in mind when they talk about the classic ascent of Elbrus from the south.
That said, the West summit and the route from the west are not the same thing. The 5642 m summit can be reached from the south, from the north, from the western side or as part of a traverse. The name of the summit identifies the objective; the name of the route describes the approach, the acclimatisation plan, the logistics and the conditions on the descent.
The West summit in brief
- height: 5642 m;
- 21 m higher than the East summit;
- the main objective of most classic programmes from the south;
- can also be reached from other sides of the massif;
- separated from the East summit by a saddle, which makes climbing both a distinct high-altitude undertaking rather than a short stroll along a level ridge.
How the West summit of Elbrus is climbed
The classic route from the south
The southern side has the most developed infrastructure: cable cars, mountain huts and several options for the length of the trip. For a first encounter with Elbrus, most well-prepared newcomers are best served by the nine-day programme from the south. A seven-day version exists, but it leaves less room for gradual acclimatisation and for changes in the weather.
The fact that the normal summer route is technically accessible does not remove the altitude, the cold, the wind, poor visibility or the length of the summit day. The West summit does not become a tourist outing simply because the lower part of the southern slope has a cable car on it.
The northern side
Starting from the north does not automatically mean going only to the East summit. The specific objective must be stated in the programme. The north is more self-sufficient in its logistics and has no southern cable car, so the sides should be compared across the whole itinerary rather than by the final metres. See the current programme for Elbrus from the north.
The route from the west
Climbing Elbrus from the west is an expedition format in its own right. It should not be read as an alternative name for the ordinary ascent of the West summit from the south. The western side calls for greater self-sufficiency, experience of glacier terrain and a readiness to live in tents.
Traverses and both summits
On a traverse the group climbs from one side of the massif, reaches the summit and descends by another. On the two summits of Elbrus programme, climbers have to lose height to the saddle after the first summit and then regain it to reach the second. That adds considerably to the length and the effort of the summit push.
The first ascent of the West summit
According to the Russian Geographical Society, the West summit was first reached in 1874 by English mountaineers led by Florence Grove, with the guide Akhia Sottaev. The East summit had been reached earlier, in 1829, by Khillar Khashirov.
Historical note: the Russian Geographical Society.
West or East: which to choose
When choosing a programme, the 21 m difference in height matters far less than the side you start from, the duration, the schedule of overnight camps, the acclimatisation you have built up and your ability to turn back safely. The West summit is higher, but that does not automatically make every route to it harder than every route to the East summit.
If the high point is the goal, people usually choose the West summit. If what matters is the history of the first ascent, a particular side of the massif or the crossing between the peaks, the reasoning may be different. A detailed treatment can be found in the article „Which summit of Elbrus is higher“.
Preparation and safety
- allow time for acclimatisation, not just for the summit day;
- build aerobic endurance and the ability to keep moving steadily for hours;
- check your boots, crampons, warm layers, gloves, goggles and head torch before you travel;
- do not apply the description of one route to a different side of Elbrus;
- treat turning back for weather or for a climber’s condition as a normal part of safe tactics.
The overall plan is set out on the preparing for Elbrus page, and the sides and specialist formats in our comparison of the climbing routes.
Frequently asked questions
Is the West summit the one you climb from the west?
Not necessarily. It is the name of one of the two summits of the massif. The most popular way up starts from the south.
Can you climb the West summit from the north?
Yes, such variants and traverses exist. But the specific summit, the side of descent and the logistics must be stated explicitly in the programme you choose.
Why do most people choose the West summit?
It is the higher of the two and the high point of Elbrus. On top of that, it is reached by the classic southern route, which has the most developed infrastructure.
Can you visit both summits in a single push?
Yes, and there is a dedicated programme for it. It calls for stronger acclimatisation, more endurance and suitable conditions than an ordinary ascent of one summit.