Clothing for Elbrus is put together in layers, so that you can adjust how warm you are on the way up, at the stops and on the descent. One very warm garment does not replace a system: you sweat while you are moving, you cool down fast at a halt, and wind sharply increases the heat you lose. The set depends on the month, the route and the forecast.
The base layer
Base-layer clothing moves moisture away from the skin. For moving hard, choose synthetic or wool of a suitable weight. A cotton T-shirt gets wet and takes a long time to dry, so it is not suitable as the base layer of a summit kit.
The insulating layer
A fleece or a light synthetic jacket works while you are moving and under the outer layer. It has to fit underneath without squeezing you, and must not restrict how you use the ice axe and poles.
Protection from wind and precipitation
A waterproof shell jacket and trousers keep out wind, snow and wet weather. Check the hood with the helmet on, the length of the sleeves, and whether the trousers go on over your boots. Ventilation helps you avoid getting wet from the inside.
The down jacket
A warm jacket is needed for stops and for summit day. It has to go on over all the other layers. The amount of insulation you need in July and in winter is not the same; agree the particular model with the operator.
Legs
Under the shell trousers you wear base-layer clothing and, where necessary, an insulating layer. Too many tight garments make movement and the circulation worse. Gaiters are only worth taking if they work with your boots and trousers.
Hands
- thin gloves for handling equipment;
- warm gloves or mitts for the cold;
- a spare dry pair;
- wrist leashes on the mitts, where the model has them.
Persistent numbness or pain is not something to put up with until the summit; tell the guide.
Head, face and eyes
You need a hat or a balaclava, a neck gaiter, a hood and something to cover any exposed skin. Your eye protection has to be right for bright sun on snow; a spare pair of goggles is useful in wind and falling snow. Ordinary town sunglasses are not enough.
How to check the set
Put every layer on at once, raise your arms, and do up the harness and the rucksack. Check that you can reach the pockets, that the hood does not block your view and that your crampons do not catch on the trousers. Do a training session in cold, windy weather.
Summer and winter
In summer it can be hot in the valley and below freezing on the summit, so some of your clothing travels in the rucksack. In winter you need warmer boots, more insulation and a bigger margin. The summer list cannot be carried over to a winter Elbrus unchanged.
Check your set against the article on equipment for Elbrus and against the requirements of the programme you choose. Some of the bulkier items are available to hire.
How the layers work through the day
At the start you may feel cold, and ten minutes into the climb you are overheating. Set off slightly cool and add a layer before a stop rather than after you start shivering. The shell goes on in wind and precipitation; walking in it all day in dry weather lets moisture build up inside.
At a halt you close the vents straight away and put the down jacket on. Before moving off you take off what you do not need, so as not to soak the insulation. That simple rhythm works better than trying to walk all day in one set of clothes.
Clothing for the acclimatisation days
Lower down you want light trousers, a T-shirt or a thin base layer, a fleece and a waterproof. The sun in the mountains is strong even when the air is cool. A cap, eye protection and covered skin all reduce burns. Insulation and gloves stay in the rucksack: the weather changes faster than the distance back to the hotel.
The summit kit
It is laid out separately the evening before. The base layer has to be dry, the insulated trousers and the down jacket reachable without unpacking everything, and the mitts secured. Check whether you can work the zips and karabiners with gloves on. The head torch goes on so that it does not clash with the helmet and the hood.
Socks
A thick sock is not always warmer: in a tight boot it squeezes the foot. Work the combination out at the fitting and take a dry pair for the day out. Do not put on several new layers at once without testing them on a long training day.
Common mistakes
- a town down jacket with no wind protection;
- one pair of gloves;
- tight layers that restrict movement;
- long trousers that catch on crampons;
- clothing that leaves skin exposed between the jacket and the glove;
- a new set that has never been tested in the field.
Care and packing
Dry your things after every day out, but do not put shell clothing or boots on a surface that is too hot. Keep insulation in a protective bag inside the rucksack. Wet gloves must not soak the spare pair. Before the trip, restore the water-repellent finish according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
What can be hired
A down jacket and shell clothing are sometimes hired, but the fit is checked with all the layers on. Base-layer clothing, socks and thin gloves are usually better owned. Confirm that your size is available before you arrive.
Women’s and men’s cuts. What matters is the fit, not the label. The jacket should not ride up under the rucksack, the trousers should not restrict a high step, and the harness should not press through the pockets. Try clothing on in the full combination and leave room for insulation.
Hiring and buying. An expensive shell is not needed for a single tour if a suitable one can be hired. But the lower layers, the socks and anything next to the skin are better chosen in person. Compare the condition, the size and whether every zip works, not the brand.
After you get back. Wash shell fabric and down according to the instructions, not with ordinary harsh detergent. Repair any damage before the next season. Write down which layer you used at each stage: it will help you put together a more accurate set for another date or another route.
Before you pack your kit: open the current programme for climbing Elbrus from the south and check your clothing against the season, the route and the list the operator issues.