Nanga Parbat Base Camps Trek via the Mazeno Pass

Nanga Parbat, 8126 m, is the ninth-highest mountain in the world and the western bastion of the Himalaya in Pakistan. The massif rises sharply above the Indus valley and presents three quite different sides: the northern Rakhiot face, the southern Rupal face and the western Diamir face. A circuit route therefore gives a far fuller picture of the mountain than a short walk out to a single base camp.

The first days pass through Chilas, Fairy Meadows and the Rakhiot base camp. An out-and-back walk to 3900 m and a return to a lower overnight stop help acclimatisation begin without a forced gain in altitude. The group then drives to Tarashing and enters the Rupal valley, where the self-supported tented part of the expedition begins.

From the Herrligkoffer base camp the route gains altitude gradually through Shaigiri to the Mazeno base and high camps. That order exists for more than forward progress: participants check how they feel, their movement technique and their personal equipment before the key stage. The hardest day is the crossing of the Mazeno Pass, 5399 m, with sections of snow and ice and a steep descent on fixed ropes.

After the pass the route descends into the Loiba valley, then approaches the base camp below the Diamir face. A reserve day here is needed for recovery after the technical section, for watching the weather and for keeping a margin before leaving the self-supported area. The mountain part ends with the descent through Sair and Bunar Das to the road and the return to Islamabad.

The main risks of the trip relate to high altitude, long stages, self-sufficiency, glacial terrain, crevasses, rockfall and rapid changes in the weather. Reaching the pass, or any base camp, is not guaranteed. The priority remains the return of the whole team, so the guide is entitled to change the start time, shorten a stage or turn a participant back.

Before the trip you need regular endurance training, experience of several consecutive walking days and confident use of crampons, a harness and a descender.

Among the company’s eight-thousander viewing trips this route occupies a place of its own: it is technically and physically harder than an ordinary base camp trek, but it is not a high-altitude ascent of an eight-thousander. It is chosen by participants who want not only the views but the full logic of an expedition.

Day 1. Arrival in Islamabad, 500 m.

Participants fly into Islamabad independently, where a representative of the receiving team meets the group and arranges the transfer to the hotel. After check-in there is an introduction to the leader, a check of documents and equipment, and a discussion of the road and mountain logistics. If time allows, a short walk around the city is possible. Night at a hotel. The main task of the day is to assemble the group and resolve any equipment shortcomings before departure for the remote area.

Day 2. Drive from Islamabad to Chilas, 1265 m.

After breakfast the group departs for Chilas. The road takes roughly ten to twelve hours; whether it runs via Besham or over the Babusar Pass is chosen according to current road conditions and seasonal accessibility. The long drive brings the team to the Indus valley and shortens the distance to the start of the trek. Check-in and rest on arrival. Night at a hotel.

Day 3. Drive to Tato and walk to Fairy Meadows, 3300 m.

In the morning the group drives to Tato, after which the walking part of the route begins. The stage to Fairy Meadows takes about three hours with a marked gain in altitude. The pace remains steady: the first day at altitude exists to begin acclimatisation and to assess how the body responds. After check-in participants prepare their packs for the following day. Night in alpine huts.

Day 4. Acclimatisation walk to Rakhiot base camp, 3900 m.

The group makes an out-and-back walk to the Nanga Parbat Base Camp below the Rakhiot face and returns to Fairy Meadows. Gaining altitude without moving the overnight stop higher helps the body adapt and lets the leader check the pace, the condition and the readiness of participants for the self-supported part. Rest and baggage preparation after the return. Night in alpine huts.

Day 5. Descent to Tato and drive to Tarashing, 2250 m.

After an early breakfast the group descends to Tato and drives to Tarashing; the road section takes about seven hours. Losing altitude creates a window for recovery after the acclimatisation walk, and the drive moves the team to the southern side of the Nanga Parbat massif. The final packing of expedition baggage takes place in the evening. Night at a local hotel.

Day 6. Trek to the Herrligkoffer base camp, 3600 m.

From Tarashing the group begins the climb into the Rupal valley and reaches the Herrligkoffer base camp below the southern face of Nanga Parbat in about five hours. This is the start of the self-supported tented stage: participants get used to how the camp team works, watch their fluid intake and prepare their kit for the successive stages. Night in tents.

Day 7. Trek from the Herrligkoffer base camp to Shaigiri, 3650 m.

The stage to the Shaigiri camp takes about seven to eight hours. The sleeping altitude changes little, so the day works towards continued acclimatisation without a sharp climb, but it demands endurance over a long distance. After the camp is pitched, participants recover and check the equipment for the approach to Mazeno. Night in tents.

Day 8. Trek to Mazeno base camp, 4200 m.

The group climbs from Shaigiri to the Mazeno base camp in about four hours. A shorter walking day leaves time to rest after the gain in altitude, to monitor how everyone feels and to prepare the technical kit. The leader confirms the state of the route and the order of movement to the high camp. Night in tents.

Day 9. Climb to Mazeno high camp, 4800 m.

The stage to the high camp takes roughly five to six hours and brings the group onto the glaciated terrain below the pass. Participants move at a single pace, conserve strength and, once the camp is pitched, prepare crampons, harnesses, rope equipment, clothing and water for the early start. Night in tents at 4800 m.

Day 10. Mazeno Pass, 5399 m, and descent to Upper Loiba, about 4500 m.

The key technical day of the trip takes about eight to nine hours. The group climbs snow and ice terrain to the Mazeno Pass, then crosses a steep descent section to Upper Loiba; depending on conditions, crampons and fixed ropes are used. The decision to set out and to continue is taken by the leader. After the pass, concentration and conserving strength as far as camp matter most. Night in tents.

Day 11. Trek from Upper Loiba to Upper Jaley, 4000 m.

After the hardest stage the group descends from Upper Loiba to Upper Jaley; the stage takes about four to five hours. The lower altitude and the moderate length of the day help recovery after the pass, but participants continue to take care on uneven ground. Night in tents.

Day 12. Trek to Jerdin – Kutgali via Kachal, 3100 m.

The route passes through Kachal and in about six to seven hours brings the group to Jerdin – Kutgali. The substantial loss of altitude aids recovery, but a long stage over varied terrain requires a steady pace. On arrival the team prepares for the approach below the western face of Nanga Parbat. Night in tents.

Day 13. Trek to Diamir base camp, 4100 m.

The group climbs to the Nanga Parbat Base Camp below the Diamir face in about four hours. Returning above 4000 m after a descent calls for careful attention to how everyone feels. After making camp, participants rest, take in the western side of the massif and discuss the onward schedule with the leader. Night in tents.

Day 14. Contingency day at Diamir base camp, 4100 m.

The day is used for rest after the Mazeno crossing, for recovery and as a reserve against delays on earlier stages. What form any activity takes is decided by the leader according to the weather and the condition of participants. A time margin in a self-supported area cannot be treated as a guarantee of an additional excursion: its purpose is the safety and stability of the whole trip. Night in tents.

Day 15. Descent from Diamir base camp to Sair, 3000 m.

The group leaves base camp and descends to Sair in about six hours. Despite the loss of altitude, after a long expedition section it is important to stay attentive on the descent and not to speed up without the leader’s instruction. In camp participants rest and prepare their baggage for the final walking day. Night in tents.

Day 16. Walk to Bunar Das and drive to Chilas, 1260 m.

After the final stage the group reaches Bunar Das, where the walking part of the route ends, and travels by vehicle to Chilas. The team returns to road logistics, showers and recovers after the tented stage within the means of the confirmed hotel. Night at a hotel.

Day 17. Return to Islamabad.

The group drives from Chilas to Islamabad. The route and the length of the road depend on the state of the highway and the seasonal accessibility of the Babusar Pass. On arrival there is hotel check-in, rest and preparation for the international departure. This day also keeps the necessary road margin between a remote mountain area and the airport. Night at a hotel.

Day 18. End of the trip.

At the agreed time a transfer to Islamabad international airport is arranged. Participants check in on their own and fly home. We recommend not buying tight connections: road and mountain logistics in Pakistan depend on the weather and on road conditions.

• A Mountain Guide team leader once the main group is confirmed; for a small group a format with an experienced local leader may be offered – the working language of the accompaniment is fixed before booking
• A licensed local mountain guide, a cook, an assistant cook, a head porter and porters on the self-supported part of the route
• Meeting and seeing off at Islamabad international airport on the first and last days of the trip
• All group transfers and road journeys in the itinerary, including transport on mountain roads
• Accommodation in hotels, alpine huts and tents along the route of the trip
• Breakfasts in the city hotels and three meals a day during the trekking and tented part
• Tents, kitchen and group camp equipment for the self-supported part
• Carriage of group equipment and personal expedition baggage by porters within the confirmed limit
• Payment for the work of the local team and the compulsory local fees along the route
• Preparation of the route documents and registrations the receiving party requires for the confirmed dates
• A group first aid kit and the local team's communications equipment for route coordination

The exact composition of the accompaniment, the category of accommodation, the personal baggage limit and meals in the road hotels are fixed in the offer for the specific date before payment.

• International flights to Islamabad and back
• A Pakistan visa and the costs associated with obtaining it
• Medical insurance covering technical high-altitude trekking to at least 5399 m, search and rescue and emergency helicopter evacuation
• Personal technical, trekking and camping equipment
• Single occupancy, additional nights and early check-in or late check-out
• Lunches and dinners in Islamabad, unless separately confirmed in the offer
• An additional porter and the carriage of baggage beyond the confirmed limit
• Personal expenses, drinks, communications, laundry and purchases
• Tips for the local guides, cooks, drivers and porters
• Medical costs, search and rescue and evacuation
• Additional journeys, accommodation and ticket changes in the event of delays, leaving the route, or a change to the itinerary caused by weather, road conditions, a participant’s health or other reasons outside the organisers‘ control

The circuit around Nanga Parbat can be arranged for a closed group of friends, a climbing club or a corporate team, with no one else joining. The dates within the working season, the language the group is led in, the local guides and porters, single occupancy in the cities and extra days before or after the route are all agreed individually.

For a private team, a Russian-speaking leader from the Mountain Guide team can be confirmed separately. Whether that leader joins, the minimum group size and how responsibilities are shared with the licensed local guide are all fixed before booking.

A bespoke format does not set aside the experience required. The acclimatisation sequence, the high camp, the technical crossing of the Mazeno and the reserve day are not shortened for the sake of a faster schedule. Any changes are considered only after the participants‘ preparation and the current state of the route have been assessed.

The price depends on the size of the group, the dates, the make-up of the team and any additional services confirmed.

Start preparing your documents before you buy any non-refundable tickets. The trip runs through a remote part of Pakistan, and the host team may need your passport details for route registrations and to confirm the ground logistics.

The trip requires a valid passport and a Pakistani visa. The requirements depend on your nationality and can change, so check them on the official visa portal before booking and again before you fly. Mountain Guide does not sell air tickets or arrange entry visas, but does provide whatever confirmations of the trip the host team has issued.

Documents

• A passport valid for at least six months from your intended date of entry
• A valid Pakistani visa
• International air tickets or e-ticket receipts
• Medical insurance covering technical high-altitude trekking to at least 5399 m, search and rescue and emergency evacuation by helicopter
• Your policy number and the insurer’s 24-hour emergency contact details
• Your booking confirmation for the trip and the organisers‘ contact details
• Copies of your passport and photographs in the format the host team requests
• A brief summary of your experience at altitude and on technical ground, so your readiness can be assessed
• Vaccination records, where the entry rules or a transit country require them
• Digital copies of your passport, visa, tickets and insurance on your phone and in cloud storage
• Waterproof wallet for your original documents

The first name and surname on every ticket, on the visa and on the insurance policy must match the spelling in your passport exactly. Carry your original documents in your hand luggage.

The working season for the circuit over the Mazeno Pass usually runs from July to September. Particular dates are confirmed after checking the snow on the pass, the state of the mountain roads and the availability of the local team. Even within the season, crossing the technical section depends on the conditions at the time.

In Islamabad, the Indus valley and on the lower approaches it can be hot and sunny in summer. As you gain height the weather becomes a great deal colder; at camps above 4000 m the nights can bring sub-zero temperatures and snow. On the pass, wind, fresh snow, ice and poor visibility can sharply increase both the length and the difficulty of the day.

The final decision on the start time, on the use of technical equipment, and on whether to cross the pass or turn back rests with the leader. A forecast helps in planning tactics, but it does not remove the need for spare warm clothing, sun protection and a readiness for the plan to change.

In Islamabad and Chilas the group stays in hotels, in Tarashing in a confirmed local hotel, and at Fairy Meadows in simple alpine huts. From the Rupal valley over the Mazeno and out of the Diamir valley, the nights are spent under canvas. The hotel categories, the room types and the actual arrangement in the huts are confirmed for your particular date.

As standard, the city accommodation is in twin rooms. Single occupancy and extra nights are quoted separately and depend on availability. In the huts and camps the level of comfort is below that of the towns, and a room or tent to yourself is not guaranteed without prior confirmation.

Breakfasts are provided at the city hotels. During the trekking and camping sections the local team prepares three meals a day. Allergies, food intolerances and any special diet must be reported before booking; whether the request can be met is confirmed by the host team.

In the cities we recommend drinking bottled water. On the trek, water must be boiled, filtered or treated; do not drink straight from streams or rivers. How drinking water will be provided is explained at the briefing.

Showers and toilets. The hotels have the usual town facilities, within the category confirmed. In the huts at Fairy Meadows conditions are more basic and the washing facilities may be shared. On the self-sufficient camping section the toilet is a field arrangement, and a regular hot shower is not guaranteed.

Power and charging. Charge your devices reliably in the cities above all. In the huts and at the mountain camps there may be no electricity at all, or it may run for limited hours or be charged for. Bring several power banks; a universal adapter is useful in Pakistan, where type C and type D sockets are used.

Internet and phone signal. A mobile signal is usually easier to find in Islamabad and Chilas, but on the approaches and in the mountains it is unreliable or absent. Internet at Fairy Meadows, in Tarashing and at the camps is not guaranteed. The local team’s communications equipment is there for coordination and safety, not for participants‘ continuous personal use.

Laundry. Laundry is possible only at some of the city hotels, if there is time, and usually costs extra. There is no provision for proper laundry on the trek, so bring enough quick-drying underwear and socks.

Baggage. On the mountain section the main expedition baggage is carried by porters, within the confirmed allowance. You walk with your own day pack holding water, a warm and a waterproof layer, a first-aid kit, documents and anything you may need before the camp loads arrive.

You bring all of your own personal equipment. Before the trip you must agree your boots, crampons, climbing harness, descender and sleeping bag with your guide. The technical kit is checked before you leave Islamabad; you must not leave any agreed item out of your baggage.

Baggage and camp equipment

• A soft expedition holdall or a 50-60 litre rucksack for the baggage carried by a porter
• A 35-45 litre day pack
• Waterproof rucksack cover
• Dry bags or heavy-duty liners for clothing, sleeping bag and electronics
• A sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -20 °C or lower
• Folding trekking poles – 2
• Drinking water containers – agree the capacity needed with your guide
• Light footwear for the hotels, the huts and camp
• Your own snacks for the long walking days

Technical equipment

• High trekking boots or light mountaineering boots compatible with crampons
• Crampons that fit the boots you have chosen exactly
• Climbing helmet
• Climbing harness
• A descender for use on fixed rope
• Cow’s-tail lanyards
• Screwgate karabiners – agree the number and models with your guide
• Accessory cord for a prusik knot
• A classic ice axe – whether one is needed, and which model, is agreed according to the state of the route
• Hard-wearing full-finger gloves for ropework

Clothing and footwear

• Light spare footwear for the flights and for town
• Quick-drying base layer, top and bottoms
• Quick-drying T-shirts and a long-sleeved top
• Fleece jacket
• Warm down or synthetic jacket with a hood
• Waterproof shell jacket with a hood
• Waterproof shell trousers
• Quick-drying trekking trousers
• Thin gloves
• Warm waterproof gloves
• Spare dry gloves
• Warm hat
• A buff or warm scarf to protect your neck and face
• Sun cap or brimmed hat
• Synthetic or wool trekking socks
• A spare set of dry underwear and socks
• Gaiters

Useful extras

• LED head torch with at least 12 hours of battery life
• A spare set of batteries or cells for your torch
• Sunglasses with high ultraviolet protection
• Ski goggles for wind, snow and poor visibility
• Sun cream
• Lip balm with sun protection
• Vacuum flask
• Power banks and the charging cables you need
• A universal adapter for type C and type D sockets
• Quick-drying towel
• Toiletries, toilet paper, wet wipes and hand sanitiser
• A personal first-aid kit suited to your own medical needs
• Elastic bandage or a personal support brace
• Blister prevention and treatment
• Waterproof document wallet