There are two ways of reaching the plateau: directly, up a fairly steep snow and ice slope, or by a longer way round. The way round is easier, but considerably more dangerous, because it passes beneath an icefall and beneath rock walls where ice and stones can come down – which is hardly cheering. The choice of route should depend not only on the group’s level of preparation but on the state of the glacier as a whole. In either case this section has to be done wearing helmets and roped together. During our reconnaissance we climbed to the plateau by the „blue“ line and came down by the „red“ one. In the end we decided that for the climb itself we would take the red line, because at that point it seemed safer.
We also came across a number of hazards on the route. First, rockfall is active in the upper part of the gendarme. Second, at the junction of ice and rock there is an ice gully down which stones periodically come with the meltwater. That section is best passed as early as possible, ideally in the morning and with protection in place. The landmark for the exit onto the big rock is the rock itself: behind it you can safely put on crampons, rope up and move out onto the ice.
The fourth day in the mountains passed unnoticed. As already mentioned, the section before the exit onto the plateau is considered the hardest. Getting onto the plateau means a hundred and fifty metres of steep ice, followed by a break in the glacier and what is known as the firn wall. Getting through it took two ice tools and eight ice screws to set up a belay station and fixed rope.
Once we come out onto the plateau, we have to crawl across the bergschrund on distinctly unreliable bridges. This has to be done very carefully and with good protection. Without exaggeration, those were the most unpleasant moments of the whole route. Crossing the crevasses, we could smell hydrogen sulphide, which was present all the way along. It shows that the mountain is „alive“ and „breathing“. The weather on the route is another of the key factors. Conditions stayed more or less normal until twelve o’clock, after which the sky clouded over. A strong wind got up, rain began, and higher up it turned to snow. Towards evening the clouds dispersed, thanks to the wind. It became quiet and cold. That is why you should plan one or two days for bad weather and build them into the plan of the climb.
And now it was our fifth day in the mountains. This was the decisive one – the day of the climb of Elbrus. We were genuinely lucky with the weather: there was no cloud and no fog, and the route was clearly visible all the way to the summit. The weather did begin to deteriorate on the descent, though. The sky filled with fog again, and a strong wind got up that covered our tracks. Because conditions were worsening, the snow bridges began to melt, which considerably increased the risk of rockfall and ice collapse. We therefore decided not to go straight down but to spend the night on the plateau. We planned to pass the dangerous sections early in the morning. Towards evening the weather improved: the temperature outside was below ten degrees of frost, and in the tent about six.
It is worth noting that on the descent you cannot see your own tracks. They are covered by snow during the day, so going back without a special device is dangerous. On the summit climb such an instrument is simply essential, because it is easy to lose yourself in the snowy terrain. Both a beginner and an experienced leader can get lost. Besides, this route, unlike the „classic“ one, sees few people, though groups have started coming here.
Something should also be said about the equipment needed to climb Elbrus from the west in summer. If you do not want to get lost in snow and ice, you simply need a GPS. A helmet is equally essential, unless you are planning to be injured by a falling stone or something similar. There is no certainty that anything will land on your head, but it is better to be safe. It is not a heavy item and it will certainly not be superfluous. You will also need a proper snow shovel. As for clothing, that means thermal underwear, fleece and a down gilet or jacket. Trekking shoes are an essential item for any climber. You can get further information about the clothing you need from your own organiser. It is also very important to have good sunglasses with ultraviolet protection, and ski goggles, which are an excellent addition in the mountains. Do not forget to take good sun cream, or any exposed skin may burn. This is not a complete list, and anyone who wants more detail can get it from the organiser of the trip. If you are going to the mountains alone, consult more experienced friends about the equipment you need.
Talking about the climb, I cannot help sharing my own impressions. A climb is a flood of new sensations and a charge of energy. I want to stress, though, that this kind of active holiday does not suit everyone. If you feel you are capable of reaching a summit, start preparing well in advance, and do it seriously. Remember that the mountains love the strong and the persistent, but that staying sensible matters just as much.