The difficulty of climbing Elbrus cannot be put into a single figure. The mountain has several routes, and their condition shifts with snow, ice, wind and visibility. The classic way from the south is considered the most manageable in terms of logistics and technique, but 5642 m, a long summit day and fast-changing weather make it a full mountaineering ascent.
What a route grade means
A mountaineering grade describes the technical character of a route in typical conditions. It helps you compare routes, but it does not predict how a person will feel at altitude and it guarantees nothing about safety. The same line after a snowfall, on hard ice or in poor visibility can demand more time and more skill.
Before you travel, check the grade of the particular line you have chosen rather than of “Elbrus in general”. Historical descriptions, commercial names and the actual track of a programme can all differ.
The south route
The climb from the south uses well-developed infrastructure: the cable car, the high huts and, on some programmes, a snowcat. That shortens part of the approach, but it does not remove the need to acclimatise or to move in crampons over snow and ice. The main difficulties are altitude, cold, wind, an early start and many hours of effort.
North, west and traverses
The north side usually demands more self-sufficiency and keeps the feel of an expedition for longer. The western lines are more serious than the classic south, both technically and in terms of organisation. A traverse starts on one side and finishes on the other, so it needs coordinated logistics and leaves no easy return to the camp you set out from.
Even so, the words “north”, “west” or “traverse” are not enough on their own. Compare the length, the altitude of the overnight camps, the character of the terrain, the way you come down, the group size and the skills the programme states.
What makes Elbrus hard
- not enough acclimatisation;
- too fast a pace at the beginning of the summit day;
- wind and loss of visibility;
- unsuitable or unworn boots;
- turning back too late;
- overestimating the help of the cable car or the snowcat;
- not being able to use crampons, an ice axe and a harness confidently where that is required.
Is the route suitable for a beginner
Someone with no mountaineering experience can prepare for the classic south route in summer, provided the programme includes instruction and enough time at altitude. A “beginner” still has to be physically fit, follow the guide’s instructions, and tell a doctor and the organiser in advance about any illnesses and medication. Experience of hiking and of winter days out makes the first days easier to read, but it is no guarantee of the summit.
How to compare programmes
- how many days are set aside for acclimatisation;
- whether there are training sessions in crampons and in self-arrest;
- the ratio of guides to participants on summit day;
- where the overnight stops are;
- whether a snowcat is included and how far it is meant to go;
- what the turnaround conditions are and whether there is a spare day;
- what the insurance covers.
An overview of the lines currently in use is gathered on the page about routes up Mount Elbrus. For a first attempt, start with the catalogue of Elbrus programmes, and then compare the actual conditions rather than the price and the number of days alone.