Climb Elbrus from the North, 10 Days

Please note: to avoid any disagreement between participants, we always climb the higher West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, and not the East summit, 5621 m.

The route begins at Emmanuel Glade. After arrival the group spends an additional acclimatisation day in the area of base camp. Participants then make an acclimatisation hike up to the shelter at 3700 m and return to the glade; the following day they move up to the same shelter to live there and prepare for the summit.

The next acclimatisation hike goes to the Lenz Rocks at 4700 m. After it the group returns to the shelter and has a full rest day. This sequence helps the body adapt to the lack of oxygen and recover before the ascent. Altitude nevertheless affects every person differently, and good physical condition does not guarantee easy acclimatisation.

The summit attempt starts from the shelter at 3700 m. The group climbs the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, and returns by the same route. The following day is held in reserve and is used if the ascent has to be postponed because of weather or the condition of the group.

On the north route it is not possible to shorten either the ascent or the descent with a cable car. Every metre of altitude is covered on foot, so the main difficulties are sustained physical load, cold, wind and the need to manage your effort correctly. The lead guide decides the start time, the pace and whether the ascent can continue, taking account of the weather and the condition of the group.

The northern side shows a completely different Elbrus. Here you find ancient moraines, mountain streams, wide snowfields and unusual lava formations. In clear weather the Caucasian Mineral Waters region is visible from the route, and at night the lights of distant towns.

At about 3000 m there is a large plateau resembling a natural airfield. During the Second World War it was used by German forces for landing troops.

If a cable car, a hotel in the valley and developed tourist infrastructure matter more to you, the nine-day south route ascent of Elbrus is the better choice. The north route offers a different format: the full altitude gain on foot and more time spent in the mountains themselves.

It is best to start physical preparation well in advance.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to Emmanuel Glade.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the trip: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. After the drive to Emmanuel Glade we settle into the shelter and have dinner. The guide then gives a detailed briefing covering the trip, the logic of the acclimatisation plan, the order of movement, how the group works together and the main safety requirements. Night in the shelter.

Day 2. Additional acclimatisation hike around Emmanuel Glade.

After breakfast we make an unhurried out-and-back hike from base camp. The guide sets the exact route, its length and its high point according to the weather, conditions on the ground and how the group feels. The purpose of the day is to begin adapting to altitude without a sharp gain, to test clothing and boots in movement and to prepare the body for the next hike to 3700 m. After returning we rest and prepare equipment. Dinner and overnight in the shelter.

Day 3. Acclimatisation hike and equipment carry to the shelter at 3700 m.

After breakfast we make the first acclimatisation hike up to the high shelter at 3700 m. The aim of the day is not speed but a steady gain in altitude and a first check of how the body reacts to high mountains. At the same time participants carry up part of their personal and the group equipment, so that the following day’s move carries less weight. After a rest by the shelter we descend to Emmanuel Glade. Climbing higher and sleeping lower continues the gradual acclimatisation. Dinner and overnight in the shelter.

Day 4. Move up to the high shelter at 3700 m.

We climb the now familiar route to the high shelter. We move at a steady pace and do not force the altitude gain, even if everyone feels well. After settling in we rest and observe how the body responds to the first night at 3700 m. In the evening the guide assesses the condition of the group, checks that participants are ready and confirms the plan for the next acclimatisation hike. Night in the shelter at 3700 m.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Lenz Rocks at 4700 m.

We climb to the Lenz Rocks at 4700 m, roughly 1000 m above the shelter. This hike is needed for further adaptation and to check how participants feel at an altitude close to the upper part of the route. The main task is to reach the planned altitude and keep enough strength for a safe return. After reaching the point set by the guide we descend to the shelter at 3700 m. Gaining altitude by day and sleeping lower again continues the acclimatisation before the ascent. Night in the shelter.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the ascent of Elbrus.

The rest day is a full part of the trip, not simply free time. After the hike to the Lenz Rocks the body needs to recover before a long day of work at altitude. We check personal and group equipment and prepare clothing, boots and everything else that is needed. The guide gives the final briefing and goes through the order of movement, the pace, communication within the group and what to do if the weather changes or someone begins to feel unwell. Night in the shelter at 3700 m.

Day 7. Ascent of the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, by the north route.

We set out at night, usually between 02:00 and 04:00. The exact start time is decided by the lead guide on the basis of the forecast, the actual weather, the state of the slope and the readiness of the group. The climb to the West summit normally takes 10–12 hours, and the descent to the shelter a further 4–6 hours. The duration depends on the pace of the participants and on conditions along the route. The guide controls the speed of movement and decides whether the ascent can continue. After reaching the summit we make a short stop and begin the descent. The ascent ends not on the summit but when the whole group is safely back at the shelter. Night in the shelter at 3700 m.

Day 8. Reserve day for the ascent, or an unhurried descent to base camp.

If the weather or the condition of the group prevented the ascent on the main day, the reserve is used for a second attempt. The decision is taken by the lead guide on the basis of the actual conditions, and the existence of a reserve day is not in itself a guarantee that the group will set out. If the ascent took place on day 7, the group descends without haste from the high shelter to Emmanuel Glade after breakfast, and spends the night in the shelter at base camp on Emmanuel Glade. If the reserve day is used for the ascent, the group spends the night in the high shelter after returning.

Day 9. Descent from the northern slope of Elbrus and return to Mineralnye Vody.

If the ascent took place on day 7, transport meets the group at Emmanuel Glade after breakfast for the drive to Mineralnye Vody. If the reserve day 8 was used for the ascent, the group descends from the high shelter to Emmanuel Glade after breakfast, where transport is waiting. After the drive we check into the hotel and rest. In the evening participants can gather for a celebratory dinner. Night at the hotel.

Day 10. End of the trip and departure.

After breakfast a transfer is arranged to the airport or to the railway station in Mineralnye Vody. We recommend choosing evening flights and trains so that there is a margin in case the reserve day is used or the schedule changes for other weather-related reasons.

• Hotel accommodation in Mineralnye Vody — twin rooms for all nights set out in the itinerary. Please note that hotel check-out is by 12:00.
• Accommodation in the shelters for all nights set out in the itinerary
• All transfers on the trip, including the drive from Mineralnye Vody to Emmanuel Glade and back
• Three meals a day during the mountain part of the trip, from dinner on the day of arrival to breakfast on the day of descent
• Breakfasts during the stay at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody
• All necessary permits and registrations
• Professional guides — a lead guide accompanies the group throughout the trip, and assistant guides join the group on summit day. The ratio is strict: no more than three climbers to one guide, and the group still moves together
• Summit attempts on the main and the reserve day at no extra charge. If part of the group reaches the summit, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts for the remaining participants are paid separately
• Group mountaineering and emergency equipment — ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and other necessary items
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• Single occupancy at the hotel
• Personal equipment and the hire of it
• Additional work by guides and cooks if the itinerary changes
• Lunches and dinners during the stay at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody
• Medical insurance
• Any costs arising from change to the itinerary

To join this trip you will need:

• A valid passport
• Air or rail tickets to Mineralnye Vody and back
• Medical insurance valid in the area of the trip and covering mountaineering, ascents to at least 6000 m, search and rescue, transport and medical evacuation
• For foreign participants: the documents needed to enter the Russian Federation, including a visa where your nationality requires one

Mountain Guide obtains the permits and registrations the route requires itself. Where it is needed we provide foreign participants with the documents for a visa application, including a letter of invitation, and give visa support. We also recommend keeping digital copies of your passport, insurance, tickets and visa documents on your phone or in cloud storage, and noting your insurer’s contact details and policy number separately.

• Important
  Before the trip, check the terms of your policy and make sure the cover includes mountaineering, an altitude of at least 6000 m, search and rescue, and medical evacuation

Weather matters especially on the northern route, because there is no cable car and a quick descent to the valley is not possible. Conditions on the mountain can change within a few hours. Even in summer, above 5000 m there can be strong wind, snowfall, low temperatures and limited visibility. The main season for climbing Elbrus from the north runs from June to September. That period usually brings more suitable weather windows, longer daylight and higher temperatures than the shoulder seasons. Even so, settled weather is not guaranteed in any month. In June a great deal of snow remains on the route and conditions are often more wintry in character. Cold spells, snowfall and strong wind are all possible. The long daylight hours leave more time to complete the route. July and August are the most popular months for climbing Elbrus from the north. Conditions for the acclimatisation days and the climb are usually at their best then, though the weather on the summit can still differ sharply from the weather at Emmanuel Meadow. There are fewer people on the northern route in September. The month can suit a climb, but the temperature falls steadily, daylight shortens, and snowfall and winter conditions become more likely. From October to May it is winter, or the shoulder season. Climbing then calls for the right altitude experience, fitness and equipment for low temperatures. Short daylight, cold, wind and the state of the snow can all make the route considerably harder. On Elbrus West, at 5642 m, the temperature is far lower than in the valley. Even in summer you need full protection from wind, cold, snow and strong sunlight. The lead guide decides on setting out, on the start time and on continuing, taking account of the forecast, the state of the group and the actual conditions on the route. There is more on the seasons in our article on the best time to climb Elbrus.

On the northern route the group stays in mountain refuges. There are no cable cars, hotels or developed high-altitude infrastructure here as there are on the south side, so conditions are those of a self-sufficient climb. At the start of the trip you stay in the refuge at Emmanuel Meadow. The first nights, the preparation for the route and the first stage of acclimatisation all happen here. After moving up to 3700 m the group stays in a high-altitude refuge, which becomes the main camp for the acclimatisation days, the climb of Elbrus West and the reserve day. Conditions in the refuge are simpler than a hotel’s, so be ready for high-altitude living and a limited level of comfort. After descending from the north side, the group travels to Mineralnye Vody and stays in a hotel in twin rooms. Breakfast at the hotel is included in the price. Lunches and dinners while you are in Mineralnye Vody are paid separately. Three meals a day are provided on the mountain section as set out in the itinerary, starting with dinner on the day you arrive. The meal pattern on summit day allows for the early night start and the long hours on the route.

The northern route on Elbrus is more self-sufficient than the classic route from the south. There are no cable cars, hotels or familiar tourist infrastructure here — you live in a mountain environment for most of the trip. At Emmanuel Meadow the group stays in a mountain refuge. After moving up to 3700 m you stay in a high-altitude refuge, which serves as the main camp for the acclimatisation days and the summit climb. The trip does not include camping. Conditions in the refuges are simpler than a hotel’s. Be ready for a limited level of comfort, organise your own space carefully, keep things tidy, and allow for changes in weather and temperature. Toilets are provided where the group is staying. There is limited scope for washing on the mountain section, so bring your own toiletries. Mobile coverage on the north side of Elbrus is not available along the whole route, and reliable internet access is not guaranteed. The guides use radios and satellite navigation devices, which are part of the group equipment. Water for washing and cooking comes from the mountain sources available and is treated in camp. Every participant needs their own bottle and vacuum flask. Self-sufficient living is one of the defining features of climbing Elbrus from the north. It calls for a readiness to live simply at altitude, but it lets you do the route away from the crowded infrastructure of the south side.

Rock and Rent stocks all the good-quality equipment you need to climb Elbrus from the north. If you book in advance we will make up a set and deliver it for the start of the trip on the north side of Elbrus. That means you can arrive with almost no specialist kit at all, even in shorts. We chose this kit against one criterion above all: how well it suits real conditions on Elbrus, where we have been running climbs since 2001.

We have put this list together with a great deal of care. Between them the company’s guides have run several thousand ascents, so there is nothing superfluous here.

Documents you need:

• Passport
• Air or rail tickets
• Medical insurance
• A voucher for foreign participants

We recommend keeping digital copies of your documents on your phone and in cloud storage.

Personal equipment:

• Rucksack of 50-60 litres
• Duffel bag of 60-100 litres
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -15 to -5 °C from June to September inclusive, and -30 to -15 °C from October to May inclusive
• Trekking poles with baskets at least 70 mm across
• Crampons
• Classic ice axe with 2-3 metres of 5-6 mm accessory cord for clipping to your harness
• One personal ice screw on its own karabiner
• Climbing harness
• Helmet
• Five karabiners, ideally at least three of them large, which are easier to handle in mittens
• Cow’s-tail lanyards

Clothing and footwear:

Is downhill ski clothing suitable for Elbrus?

• Double or triple mountaineering boots, plastic or leather
• Trekking boots
• Waterproof shell: waterproof shell jacket and trousers, ideally rated 10,000/10,000 or better
• Fleece top and bottoms
• Base layer, top and bottoms
• A thick, warm down jacket — one suitable for Elbrus normally weighs upwards of about 700 g
• Warm mittens
• Thick ski gloves
• Thin fleece gloves
• Bandana, for sun protection in the valley and to keep your throat or face warm in the cold
• Warm hat
• Warm trekking socks for summit day
• Sun hat
• Trekking trousers and T-shirts, preferably long-sleeved
• Trekking socks, ideally a separate pair for each day of the trek

Other items:

• LED head torch with at least 24 hours of battery life
• Category 3-4 sunglasses that fully shield the eyes from side light
• Category 1-2 ski goggles for poor weather
• Vacuum flask, 1 litre, preferably without a push-button lid
• Windproof mask for the lower face; a scarf will partly do the same job
• Good sun cream, SPF 30-50
• SPF 15 lip balm
• Personal first-aid kit
• Elastic bandage and/or a support brace
• Gaiters: not compulsory, but they can be needed, especially in May and June
• Chemical hand warmers: not compulsory, but they can be very useful