Lake Kardyvach — 5-Day Base-Camp Trek

The route starts in Krasnaya Polyana, from where the group climbs by off-road vehicle to Engelmanova Polyana. After the document check the walking part begins, along the Mzymta valley to Lake Kardyvach. The main camp is set up at the lake, so on the following days participants walk with small packs and return to the tents.

The out-and-back scheme makes it possible to see several different high lake basins without moving camp every day. The trip lists Upper Kardyvach, the Utayonnye lakes, Sineokoe lake and the Kardyvach pass. The additional climb to Loyub is considered only where there is enough time in hand, the weather suits and the whole group is in good condition.

The main load falls on the first and last stages with a full pack, and on the out-and-back days with their ascent and descent. No technical mountaineering experience is needed, but you do need to be used to walking for long periods and to be steady on stony and sometimes wet trail.

Before the trip we recommend reading our guidance on choosing trekking footwear, our overview of guided treks and the entry level of our mountain training plan.

Day 1. Meeting with the guide at 08:00 at the railway station in Krasnaya Polyana. Introductions and a group briefing. Transfer by off-road vehicle along the mountain road to the reserve cordon at Engelmanova Polyana. On the way the group calls at the border guard service for registration and a document check. The drive takes no more than 2 hours. At Engelmanova Polyana there is breakfast, introductions and the distribution of shared equipment before the walking part begins. The trail is waymarked and presents no difficulty; it leads to the first campsite by Lake Kardyvach. The base camp is set up beside the Lagerny stream. Dinner. Night by the lake in tents. Distance: 17 km, ascent 600 m.

Day 2. Up at 07:30, breakfast at 08:00, departure at 08:30. Today’s walk is to Upper Kardyvach. It is an out-and-back outing, so the group takes light packs, flasks of tea, lunch and snacks. The route follows the Mzymta valley; it is not difficult, and the trail leads along Lake Kardyvach, passing the disappearing lake of Middle Kardyvach. After lunch the group climbs a little further, just north of the lake, from where there are striking views along the valley. If time and the condition of the group allow, it is possible to climb Loyub, about 2970 m. The return to base camp follows the same line. Dinner. Night by the lake in tents. Distance: 11 km, 600 m of ascent and 600 m of descent.

Day 3. Up at 07:30, breakfast at 08:00, departure at 08:30. Today’s walk is to the Utayonnye lakes. It is an out-and-back outing, so the group again takes light packs, flasks of tea, lunch and snacks. The way partly follows the previous day’s route; beyond Upper Kardyvach the trail turns off to the right and gains height fairly sharply, heading for the terrace in which the lakes are hidden. There is time to walk around, take photographs and have lunch before descending by the same line. Dinner. Night by the lake in tents. Distance: 8 km, ascent 700 m, descent 700 m.

Day 4. Up at 07:30, breakfast at 08:00, departure at 08:30. Ahead lie Sineokoe lake and the Kardyvach pass, 2457 m. This outing is also there and back, so the group takes light packs, flasks of tea, lunch and snacks. The way begins at the mouth of the Sineozyorny stream, passes through fir forest and crooked woodland and comes out onto alpine meadows. After skirting a number of rock outcrops the route reaches Sineokoe lake, whose shape resembles a figure of eight. From the lake the way leads to a rock spur with striking views over the Sineozyornaya river valley, Lake Kardyvach and the summit of Loyub. After photographs and lunch the group climbs to the Kardyvach pass, from where Lake Inpsi and the whole Imeretinka mountain group come into view. The return to base camp follows the same line. Dinner. Night by the lake in tents. Distance: 8.5 km, ascent 920 m, descent 920 m.

Day 5. The last day at Lake Kardyvach. The group strikes camp and descends by the now familiar trail to the Caucasus Nature Reserve cordon at Engelmanova Polyana. Transfer by off-road vehicle to the railway station in Krasnaya Polyana. Distance: 17 km, descent 600 m.

• Guides
• Tent accommodation, for the number of nights set out in the itinerary
• Transfer Krasnaya Polyana railway station — Engelmanova Polyana — Krasnaya Polyana
• Three meals a day throughout the trip, with dinner on the first day and breakfast on the last
• All the necessary permits and registrations
• Group equipment: satellite navigator, first-aid kit, tents and shared kitchen equipment

• Single occupancy
• Personal equipment
• Travel from your own region to Krasnaya Polyana and back
• Any departure from the itinerary
• Any costs arising from a change to the itinerary

The trek can be arranged for a group of friends, a club or a corporate group on its own dates, once the route has officially opened and subject to a guide being free.

A private group can discuss an extra day at the lake, a gentler pace and its own transfers. Every change must fit the permitted campsite scheme and the rules of the Caucasus Nature Reserve.

A child from the age of 2 needs a backpack carrier and an adult ready to carry the extra weight on the long stages. Deuter child carriers can be reserved in advance from Rock and Rent. For a private family we can, if needed, quote an extra day and split the long approach.

To join this trip you will need:

• A valid passport
• Tickets to the trip’s starting point and from its finishing point
• Medical insurance covering mountain trekking and the maximum altitude of the trip
• The details needed for a Caucasus Nature Reserve permit
• A border-zone permit, obtained by you through the Gosuslugi portal, if the rules in force require one
• Digital copies of your main documents, saved on your phone and in cloud storage

The nature reserve permit and the border-zone permit are issued under different rules. You apply for the border-zone permit yourself through the Gosuslugi portal and keep track of whether it has been issued; the current requirements are checked once the route is agreed.

Route 9 opens once the trail has been inspected and any dangerous snow cover has gone. The usual visiting period is summer and early autumn, but the exact dates are published each year by the Caucasus Nature Reserve.

In June, patches of snow can remain on the higher outings. July and August can bring thunderstorms and prolonged rain. In September the nights are colder, and by the end of the month frost and snow are likely. The weather in Krasnaya Polyana tells you nothing about conditions at Upper Kardyvach or on the pass.

Your guide may shorten an out-and-back outing or cancel an additional ascent. The purpose of the trip is to walk the permitted route safely and come back, not to tick off every point at any cost.

Every night is spent under canvas in the Lake Kardyvach area, at the campsites permitted. You need your own sleeping bag, sleeping mat and the personal equipment on the trip’s list.

The price includes three meals a day: dinner on the first day, all meals along the route and breakfast on the last day. The food is cooked in a group kitchen; participants help with water and with the running of the camp.

Dietary restrictions must be reported in advance, before the food is planned and bought.

The route is entirely self-sufficient. The camp has no hotel shower, no mains electricity and no guaranteed mobile signal. The rules on sanitation and camp life are set by the reserve’s regulations and by your guide’s instructions.

You need a power bank for your devices and dry bags or waterproof sacks for your personal kit. Wet weather can limit the chance to dry clothing and footwear.

Participants pitch the tents, keep the camp tidy, help with the cooking and carry the agreed share of the group’s equipment. On the out-and-back days the main load stays at base camp.

Documents:

• Passport
• Air or rail tickets
• Medical insurance

Personal equipment:

• Rucksack, 50-60 litres
• Summit pack, 15-20 litres
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of 0 to -7 °C
• Foam sleeping mat
• Trekking poles
• Trekking boots
• Spare footwear for around camp (trekking sandals or trainers)
• Waterproof shell: jacket and trousers
• Fleece set for sleeping in
• Base layer, top and bottoms
• Down jacket with a hood, or a down gilet
• Lightweight gloves
• Bandana, buff, cap or sun hat, as you prefer
• Fleece hat
• Warm socks for sleeping in
• Trekking socks for walking days

Other items:

• An LED head torch with at least 12 hours of battery life, plus spare batteries
• Sunglasses, category 3 protection or higher
• Vacuum flask, 1 litre
• Sun cream and lip balm
• Personal first-aid kit
• Elastic bandage and/or a support brace
• Mug, spoon, bowl and knife