Cross of Elbrus, South to North, 9 Days

The Cross of Elbrus from south to north is one of the fullest ways of climbing the highest summit in Europe. In a single long day at altitude participants climb the West summit at 5642 m and the East summit at 5621 m, cross the high part of the massif and finish the route by descending the northern slope.

Unlike a classic ascent of Elbrus, the group does not return the way it came up. The route starts on the southern side, passes over both summits and ends in the north. In one push participants cross the summit part of Elbrus and see two sides of the mountain that are quite different in character.

The Cross differs from the traverse of Elbrus from south to north in climbing both summits. It differs from the Two Summits of Elbrus trip in that after the summits the group does not return to the southern slope but descends by the northern route.

The order of the summits follows the logic of the route: the group climbs the West summit at 5642 m first, then the East summit at 5621 m, and only then descends to the north. That order keeps the descent clear of the large crevasse zones of the northern slope. The lead guide keeps the right to change the line taken, to shorten the route or to turn the group around if the weather, the state of the slopes or safety requires it.

Depending on the line chosen, the route may pass the saddle of Elbrus, the western slope of the East summit, the Motorcycle Couloir and other sections that are not part of a standard ascent of the West summit. After the summits the group descends to the high-mountain shelter on the northern slope and then continues to Emmanuel Glade.

In the area of the Motorcycle Couloir the remains of a Land Rover taken up Elbrus in 1997 are still there. The real value of the trip, however, lies not in individual objects but in the chance to climb both summits and to see the southern and northern sides of the mountain on one route.

The southern slope is distinguished by developed infrastructure, cable cars and the option of a snowcat on the initial part of the ascent. The northern side is considerably more self-supported: there are no cable cars and no resort infrastructure, and the route runs among glaciers, moraines and wide high-mountain spaces.

Climbing both summits and then descending to the north requires more endurance than a classic ascent of the West summit alone. After the first summit you have to keep enough strength to continue, to climb the second summit and to make a long descent. Good acclimatisation, an even pace and sensible management of effort therefore matter especially.

Participants move in crampons, use climbing harnesses and travel roped on individual sections where necessary. The trip gives experience of prolonged work above 5000 m, shows how the body reacts to altitude and lets you judge your readiness for longer mountain routes.

The Cross of Elbrus from the south suits physically prepared participants ready for a long day at altitude. Previous high-altitude experience is desirable, and preparation for the trip has to begin well in advance.

The trip can be treated as a test of preparation before expeditions to Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak, Khan Tengri, Aconcagua and other high summits. The Cross of Elbrus does not, however, replace the experience of a long self-supported expedition.

Even good physical condition does not guarantee that both summits will be climbed or that the route will finish on the northern slope. The lead guide may change the line taken, shorten the route or decide to turn back if the weather deteriorates, the safe time window runs out or a participant’s condition does not allow the ascent to continue.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to the Elbrus region.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the trip: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. We drive about 200 km to the hotel in the Baksan valley; the journey takes around three hours.

After checking in we gather for dinner and meet the guide and the other participants. We hold a briefing on the Cross of Elbrus south to north trip, acclimatisation, equipment and the safety rules. Night at the hotel.

Day 2. Acclimatisation hike on the slope of Cheget to 3000 m.

After breakfast we make the first acclimatisation hike on the slope of Cheget. A gradual altitude gain helps the body begin adapting to the lack of oxygen and to the effort ahead. We move at a steady pace, check trekking boots and clothing and watch how everyone feels.

After the descent we return to the hotel for lunch. The afternoon is for rest, or for selecting any missing clothing, boots and mountaineering equipment. Night at the hotel. High point of the day about 3000 m.

Day 3. Acclimatisation hike to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall and the observatory, 3100 m.

We climb to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall at about 2700 m and then continue to the observatory at 3100 m. A second consecutive acclimatisation hike allows more time at altitude and prepares participants for the move up to the high-altitude part of the trip.

After the descent we return to the hotel, rest and pack for the move up to the shelter. Night at the hotel. High point of the day about 3100 m.

Day 4. Move up to the high-mountain shelter and acclimatisation hike to 4200 m.

After breakfast we leave the hotel and ride the cable car up to the shelter on the southern slope of Elbrus.

In September the cable car may be closed for scheduled maintenance. If the cable car cannot be used, the guide decides the onward logistics according to the actual situation; a vehicle is hired for the ascent if necessary. If the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket, participants pay the difference. We settle in at 3888 m, rest and have a snack.

In the afternoon we make an acclimatisation hike to about 4200 m. We check equipment and judge how everyone feels after moving into the high-altitude zone. We then descend to the shelter, have dinner and rest. Night in the shelter. High point of the day about 4200 m.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Pastukhov Rocks at 4700 m.

We make the main acclimatisation hike of the trip, to the Pastukhov Rocks at about 4700 m. Participants continue adapting to the lack of oxygen, get used to moving in crampons and learn to hold an even pace at altitude.

The hike helps assess how the body reacts before the long ascent of both summits and the subsequent descent to the north. After reaching the planned point we return to the shelter to rest and recover. Night in the shelter. High point of the day about 4700 m.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the Cross of Elbrus.

The day is given to recovering strength before the main day. We check personal and group equipment and prepare rucksacks, clothing, flasks and the food provided on the trip.

The lead guide gives the final briefing and confirms the order of the summits — West first, then East — the specifics of the descent to the northern slope and what the group does if the weather or the state of the route changes. After an early dinner we go to bed. Night in the shelter.

Day 7. Ascent of the West and East summits of Elbrus and descent to the north.

We leave the shelter at night, usually between 02:00 and 04:00. The exact start time is decided by the lead guide according to the forecast, the state of the slopes and the readiness of the group. By prior arrangement the initial part of the climb can be covered by snowcat.

In a single long day at altitude the group climbs the West summit of Elbrus at 5642 m and the East summit at 5621 m, and then descends by the northern route. The summits are climbed in the order West then East. The actual line taken and whether the route can continue are decided by the lead guide according to the state of the snow and ice, the pace of the participants, the time in hand and the safe weather window.

Whether the group can continue to the second summit is judged on the route itself. On summit day the ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide. After completing the Cross of Elbrus from south to north we descend to the shelter on the northern slope. Night in the shelter. High point of the day 5642 m.

Day 8. Reserve day, or descent to Emmanuel Glade.

If the weather or the state of the route prevented the ascent on the main day, the reserve is used for a further attempt at the lead guide’s decision. After the West and East summits the group descends to the shelter on the northern slope, and the onward schedule depends on when the route is completed.

If the ascent took place on day 7, we descend from the northern shelter to Emmanuel Glade. Transport meets the group there for the drive to Mineralnye Vody. We check in and rest at the hotel. Night at the hotel.

Day 9. End of the trip and departure.

If the reserve day was not needed, a transfer is arranged after breakfast from the hotel to the airport or the railway station in Mineralnye Vody.

If the ascent took place on the reserve day, the group completes the northern descent in the morning, travels from Emmanuel Glade to Mineralnye Vody and continues to the airport or the station. We recommend choosing evening flights and trains so that there is a margin in case the schedule changes because of the weather or the length of the high-altitude route.

• Professional guides — a lead guide accompanies the group throughout the trip, and assistant guides join for summit day. The ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide, so a group of four participants is accompanied by two guides
• Repeat group summit attempts on the trip at no extra charge. If part of the group reaches the summit, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts for the remaining participants are paid separately
• The services of a cook
• Hotel accommodation in twin rooms for all nights set out in the itinerary
• Accommodation in the mountain shelters on the southern and northern slopes of Elbrus for all nights set out in the itinerary
• All transfers on the trip, including cable cars, from Mineralnye Vody airport or railway station and back
• Three meals a day throughout the trip, from dinner on the first day to breakfast on the day of departure
• Group mountaineering and emergency equipment — ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and a group first aid kit
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• The snowcat on summit day. Where it is used, the stated 2026-season charges are 14,000 RUB up, 8,000 RUB down or 22,000 RUB return
• Single occupancy supplement
• National park permit, if one is required for the route
• Early check-in or late check-out at the hotel before the start or after the end of the trip. We always try to agree additional benefits for our guests with our partners, so where it is possible early check-in or late check-out is provided free of charge
• Personal equipment
• Lunches and dinners in Mineralnye Vody
• Additional services and costs arising from deviating from the itinerary or changing it, including the work of guides and cooks, transport and accommodation
• The supplement for an alternative ascent by vehicle if the cable car is closed for maintenance in September and the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket

The Cross of Elbrus from south to north can be arranged for a private group on dates that suit you, where guides are free. Whether you can actually set out and complete the full route depends on the weather, the state of the slopes and participants’ readiness. A private format suits a group of friends, a climbing club or a corporate team of broadly similar fitness. Because the trip involves climbing both Elbrus West and Elbrus East within a single long day at altitude, followed by a descent to the north, each participant’s preparation must be discussed in advance. For a private group we can:

• Adjust the length of the acclimatisation
• Add reserve days
• Increase the number of guides
• Arrange private transfers
• Change the standard of accommodation before and after the climb
• Prepare and deliver hire equipment in advance
• Arrange a separate itinerary in the Elbrus region for accompanying non-climbers

Before the trip we discuss altitude experience, fitness, the group composition, the equipment needed and the format you prefer. The lead guide decides the final tactics, the order in which the summits are climbed and whether the descent to the north can go ahead, taking account of the actual conditions and how participants are feeling. There is more on private trips on our individual Elbrus ascent page. Get in touch to discuss dates and receive a quote for your group.

To join this trip you will need:

• A valid passport
• Air or rail tickets to Mineralnye Vody and back
• Medical insurance valid in Russia and covering mountaineering, ascents to at least 6000 m, search and rescue, transport and medical evacuation
• For foreign participants: the documents needed to enter the Russian Federation, including a visa where your nationality requires one

Where it is needed we provide visa support for foreign participants and supply the documents required for a Russian visa application. Whether additional permits are needed depends on the requirements in force for the route and on participants’ nationality. We will tell you in advance which documents to provide and arrange the registrations required. If a paid national park permit is required for the route, its cost is paid separately. We recommend keeping digital copies of your documents on your phone and in cloud storage. There is more on what a policy must cover in our article on insurance for mountaineers.

Important

Check the terms of your insurance policy before the trip. It must state explicitly that it covers mountaineering or climbing, altitude of at least 6000 m, search and rescue, and medical evacuation

The main season for the Cross of Elbrus from south to north is June to September. That period usually brings the most favourable conditions for acclimatising on the south side, climbing Elbrus West and Elbrus East, and descending by the northern route. Even so, settled weather on Elbrus is not guaranteed in any month. This trip is especially demanding of the length of the weather window. Participants have to cross both summits within a single day at altitude and keep enough time for a safe descent to the north. Wind and visibility are therefore assessed not only on the summits but along the whole line of the route. June is the start of the main season. A great deal of snow usually remains at altitude, and conditions on the north side can be distinctly wintry. Snowfall, strong wind, frost and sudden changes in the weather are all possible. The lead guide assesses the state of the route and the safe line of descent. July and August are the most popular months for the Cross of Elbrus. The weather is often more settled then, daylight is longer, and conditions for acclimatising are usually better. Even so, above 5000 m there can be frost, strong wind, ice and a sudden loss of visibility even in summer. September suits participants who prefer quieter routes. Conditions can stay favourable at the start of the month, but daylight gradually shortens, night temperatures fall, and snowfall and early winter weather become more likely. October to May is not the main season. Doing the route then calls for winter experience at altitude, special preparation and appropriate equipment. Low temperatures, short daylight and difficult conditions on the northern descent raise the demands on participants and on the organisation of the climb considerably. The south and north sides of Elbrus can differ in the state of the snow, the strength of the wind and visibility, even on the same day. The south side has developed infrastructure; the north remains more self-sufficient. After both summits the group has to complete a long descent in an area where there is far less scope to change the logistics quickly. The weather in the valley does not reflect conditions on the summits. Even with a clear sky in the Elbrus region, at 5642 m there can be strong wind, frost, cloud and almost zero visibility. The lead guide takes the final decision on setting out, on the order of the summits, on continuing and on descending to the north, taking account of the forecast, the actual weather, the state of the slopes and the group’s readiness. There is more on the seasons in our article on the best time to climb Elbrus.

At the start of the trip participants stay in a hotel in the Baksan valley, in twin rooms. Staying in the valley lets you rest after the acclimatisation days, recover and prepare your equipment for the high-altitude section. After taking the cable car up, the group stays in a high-altitude refuge on the south side of Elbrus. Here participants spend several nights, continue acclimatising and prepare for Elbrus West and Elbrus East. Conditions in the refuge are simpler than a hotel’s, but everything you need to sleep, eat and prepare for the climb is provided. After completing the Cross of Elbrus from south to north, the group spends the night in a mountain refuge on the north side. This part of the trip is far from the resort infrastructure, so the accommodation here is more self-sufficient. After descending to Emmanuel Meadow, participants travel to Mineralnye Vody and stay in a hotel as set out in the itinerary. Three meals a day are provided during the active part of the trip, starting with dinner on the day you arrive. Breakfast at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody is provided on the final day. Lunches and dinners in Mineralnye Vody after the route are paid separately. A cook prepares the meals on the mountain. The diet is planned around the physical effort, the altitude and the need to recover after the acclimatisation days. The menu includes hot dishes, meat, vegetables, fruit, grains, soups and drinks. On summit day the meal pattern is adapted to the night start and to how long the route takes. Participants have breakfast before setting out and carry a vacuum flask, water and high-energy snacks. After descending to the refuge on the north side, meals are provided as set out in the itinerary. Combining hotel accommodation, mountain refuges on both sides of Elbrus and full board helps you recover after acclimatising and keep your strength for the long climb over both summits and the descent to the north.

Conditions change as the route goes on. At the start of the trip participants stay in a hotel in the Baksan valley, then move up to a high-altitude refuge on the south side of Elbrus, and after climbing Elbrus West and Elbrus East spend the night in a more self-sufficient refuge on the north side. The hotel has the usual comforts: beds, bed linen, hot water, a shower, electricity and somewhere to charge your devices. Here participants recover after the acclimatisation days, sort out their clothing and make a final check of their equipment. The refuge on the south side has beds, an area for eating and preparing equipment, electricity and washing facilities. Conditions are simpler than a hotel’s and there is less personal space, so it matters to keep things tidy and to sort your kit out in advance. Whether you can shower, dry clothing and charge your equipment depends on conditions and on how busy each refuge is. We recommend bringing a power bank, spare cells for your head torch and dry bags for your documents, phone and clothing. After completing the Cross of Elbrus from south to north, the group stays in the refuge on the north side. The infrastructure here is considerably simpler, so be ready for limited charging, more basic sanitation and none of the usual hotel comforts. Mobile signal and internet depend on the network, the altitude, the terrain and the weather. The signal is usually better on the south side, but it can drop out in places. Coverage is less reliable on the north side, so do not count on constant internet access. The guides use the communication equipment provided for in the itinerary to run the group. Toilets are provided where the group stays. We recommend bringing your own toiletries, wet wipes, a small towel and a personal supply of any medication you need. Agree with your guide in advance how anything you will not need over the summits is stored and moved. For the main summit day you carry only your equipment, warm clothing, food, water and the personal items the route calls for. The change in comfort is part of the trip: the south side has developed infrastructure, while the north side lets you finish the climb in a more self-sufficient mountain setting.

Rock and Rent stocks all the good-quality equipment you need. If you reserve a set in advance we will have it ready for the start. That means you can arrive with almost no specialist kit at all, even in shorts. We chose this kit against one criterion above all: how well it suits real conditions on Elbrus, where we have been running climbs since 2001.

This list is built on the experience of the company’s guides, who between them have run several thousand ascents. For a long day over both summits and a descent of the self-sufficient north side, there is nothing superfluous in it.

Documents:

• Passport
• Air or rail tickets
• Medical insurance
• A voucher for foreign participants

Personal equipment:

• Rucksack of 50-60 litres
• Duffel bag of 60-100 litres
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -10 to 0 °C from June to September inclusive, and -30 to -15 °C from October to May inclusive
• Trekking poles with baskets at least 70 mm across
• Crampons
• Classic ice axe with 2-3 metres of 5-6 mm accessory cord for clipping to your harness
• Ice screw on its own karabiner
• Climbing harness
• Helmet
• Five karabiners, ideally at least three of them large, which are easier to handle in mittens
• Cow’s-tail lanyards

Clothing and footwear:

Is downhill ski clothing suitable for Elbrus?

• Double or triple mountaineering boots, plastic or leather
• Trekking boots
• Waterproof shell: waterproof shell jacket and trousers, ideally rated 10,000/10,000 or better
• Fleece top and bottoms
• Base layer, top and bottoms
• A thick, warm down jacket with a hood; a model suitable for Elbrus usually weighs upwards of about 700 g
• Warm mittens
• Thick ski gloves
• Thin fleece gloves
• Bandana, for sun protection in the valley and to keep your throat or face warm in the cold
• Warm hat
• Warm trekking socks for summit day
• Sun hat
• Trekking trousers and T-shirts, preferably long-sleeved
• Trekking socks, ideally a separate pair for each walking day

Additional equipment:

• LED head torch with at least 24 hours of battery life
• Category 3-4 sunglasses that fully shield the eyes from side light
• Category 1-2 ski goggles for poor weather
• Vacuum flask, 1 litre, preferably without a push-button lid
• Windproof mask for the lower face; a scarf will partly do the same job
• Good sun cream, SPF 30-50
• SPF 15 lip balm
• Personal first-aid kit
• Elastic bandage and/or a support brace
• Gaiters: not compulsory, but they can be needed, especially in May and June
• Chemical hand warmers: not compulsory, but they can be very useful