Elbrus Traverse from North to South, 10 Days

The traverse of Elbrus from north to south is a route that begins and ends on different sides of the mountain. Participants gain altitude gradually on the northern slope, climb the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, return to the saddle and continue down the southern route.

The northern part of the trip runs without cable cars, hotels or mass tourist infrastructure. Participants live in mountain shelters, gain the altitude under their own power and make acclimatisation hikes on glaciated terrain. That allows a full immersion in the atmosphere of a high-mountain route before the ascent even begins.

Compared with the classic ascent of Elbrus from the north, the traverse differs in the direction of the descent. After the summit the group does not return by the northern route but crosses the mountain and comes out onto the southern slope.

Before the ascent, at 3700 m, surplus items are handed to a porter. They are taken down to the Dzhyly-Su springs and then delivered to the hotel in Mineralnye Vody. Over the summit participants carry only the equipment and personal items needed on summit day and during the subsequent descent to the south. The rucksack on summit day is therefore slightly heavier than on an ordinary ascent that returns to the north.

The main day begins with a long climb by the northern route. Movement across the glacier is in roped parties under the guides’ control. After the West summit the group descends to the saddle and crosses to the southern side of Elbrus.

Conditions change noticeably on the southern slope. Equipped high-mountain shelters stand here and the cable car is running. After a long ascent the group spends the night in a shelter, and the remainder of the descent uses the infrastructure of the southern route.

That ending makes the traverse more comfortable than an ordinary return down the northern slope, but it does not reduce the effort of the climb. Up to the summit participants cannot count on a cable car or a snowcat, so they must be ready to gain the altitude under their own power and to work for a long time at high altitude.

The northern side of Elbrus is distinguished by wide valleys, ancient moraines and volcanic landforms. The crossing over the summit opens views of the Main Caucasus Range, and on the southern slope the route comes out among snow-covered peaks and the developed infrastructure of the Elbrus region.

Participants for whom comfortable acclimatisation using infrastructure at the start of the trip matters more should compare this route with the traverse of Elbrus from south to north. Those who prefer an entirely southern route are better suited by the classic ascent of Elbrus from the south.

Altitude affects each person individually. Good physical condition helps you carry the effort, but it does not guarantee quick adaptation to the lack of oxygen.

Preparation for the traverse has to begin well in advance. The main focus should be general endurance, long days of walking and the ability to hold a working pace after many hours of movement.

Whether the crossing to the southern slope is possible depends on the weather, the state of the route, the speed of the group and how participants feel. The final decision is taken by the lead guide.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to Emmanuel Glade.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the trip: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. After meeting the guide and the other participants we drive to Emmanuel Glade, where the active part of the north to south traverse begins.

We settle into the shelter, rest after the journey and gather for dinner. A detailed briefing then covers the trip, acclimatisation, equipment, the specifics of the northern route and the safety rules. The guide explains the sequence of the hikes, the ascent of the West summit and the subsequent descent to the southern slope. Night in the shelter.

Day 2. Additional acclimatisation hike around Emmanuel Glade.

After breakfast we make an unhurried out-and-back hike from base camp. The guide sets the exact route, its length and its high point according to the weather, conditions on the ground and how the group feels. The purpose of the day is to begin adapting to altitude without a sharp gain, to test clothing and boots in movement and to prepare the body for the next hike to 3700 m. After returning we rest and prepare equipment. Dinner and overnight in the shelter.

Day 3. Acclimatisation hike to the high shelter at 3700 m and equipment carry.

After breakfast we make the first acclimatisation hike to the shelter at 3700 m. We gain altitude at a steady pace, watch how everyone feels and begin adapting to the lack of oxygen. On the way up we get to know the character of the northern slope and the conditions of a self-supported route.

At the same time we carry up part of the equipment and supplies needed for the later stages of the trip, which reduces the load on the final move. After a rest by the shelter we descend to Emmanuel Glade, have dinner and discuss with the guide how everyone is. Night in the shelter.

Day 4. Move up to the high shelter at 3700 m.

After breakfast we climb the now familiar route again, this time with the remaining personal items and equipment. We move without haste, because the aim of the day is not only to reach the shelter but to conserve strength before the main acclimatisation hike.

After settling in we organise our space, rest and prepare clothing and equipment for the hike to the Lenz Rocks. In the evening the lead guide assesses the condition of the group, confirms the plan for the next day and repeats the rules for moving in the high-altitude zone. Night in the shelter at 3700 m.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Lenz Rocks at 4700 m.

After breakfast we begin the climb to the Lenz Rocks. The hike lets participants spend several hours well above the place where they sleep, check how the body reacts to altitude and prepare for the long effort of the ascent of Elbrus.

We move at the pace set by the guide and watch how everyone feels. The planned high point of the hike is about 4700 m. After reaching the Lenz Rocks, or the turnaround point set by the lead guide, we descend to the shelter. Dinner, rest and recovery. Night in the shelter at 3700 m. Ascent about 1000 m.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the traverse of Elbrus.

The day is given to recovering after the acclimatisation hike. Sleeping properly, restoring strength and avoiding unnecessary effort before the main stage of the trip all matter. Participants check clothing, boots, crampons, harnesses, headtorches, flasks and the rest of their personal equipment.

The guide runs the necessary sessions and gives the final briefing. We go through the order of movement on the northern route, the crossing of the saddle and the West summit, how the group works together and the specifics of the long descent to the southern side. Separately we pack the items that will not be needed during the traverse and that will be handed to the porter. Night in the shelter at 3700 m.

Day 7. Ascent of the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, and descent to the southern slope.

We set out at night, usually between 02:00 and 04:00. The exact start time is decided by the lead guide according to the forecast, the state of the slopes and the readiness of the group. Before setting out we hand the porter the items that will not be needed during the traverse. They are taken to the Dzhyly-Su springs and then on to the hotel in Mineralnye Vody.

We climb the northern route towards the saddle and the West summit of Elbrus. The climb takes 6–10 hours on average, depending on the weather, the state of the route and the pace of the participants. On the sections that require it we use crampons and harnesses and move in roped parties as the guides direct.

After reaching the West summit at 5642 m we return to the saddle and begin the long descent of the southern slope. The lead guide decides whether the group can continue, taking account of the time, the weather and the condition of the participants. On summit day the ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide. After the descent we settle into a shelter on the southern side of Elbrus. Night in the shelter.

Day 8. Reserve day for completing the traverse of Elbrus.

If the weather, the state of the route or the condition of the group prevented the ascent from being started or finished on the main day, the reserve is used for a further attempt at the lead guide’s decision. In that case the group again climbs the northern route to the West summit and, in safe conditions, descends to the southern side of Elbrus.

If the traverse was completed on the main summit day, participants rest in the shelter on the southern slope, recover after the long day at altitude and sort out their clothing and equipment. When the route has been completed successfully the night is spent in the shelter on the southern side. If the ascent was postponed or stopped, the lead guide decides the onward plan and the place of the night.

Day 9. Descent from the southern slope and return to Mineralnye Vody.

After breakfast we leave the high-mountain shelter and descend from the southern slope of Elbrus. Returning to the developed infrastructure of the southern side completes the active part of the traverse.

After the descent we drive to Mineralnye Vody, check into the hotel and rest. There is time for a shower, for sorting out equipment and for recovering after several days at altitude. Night at the hotel.

Day 10. End of the trip and departure.

After breakfast a transfer is arranged to the airport or to the railway station in Mineralnye Vody. We recommend choosing evening flights and trains so that there is a margin in case the schedule changes because of the weather, the length of the ascent or the use of the reserve day.

This completes the north to south traverse of Elbrus.

• Hotel accommodation in twin rooms for all nights set out in the itinerary. Please note that hotel check-out is by 12:00.
• Accommodation in the shelters for all nights set out in the itinerary
• All transfers on the trip
• Three meals a day during the mountain part of the trip, beginning with dinner on the first day
• Breakfast at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody on the last day
• Professional guides — a lead guide accompanies the group throughout the trip, and assistant guides join for summit day. The ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide, so a group of four participants is accompanied by two guides
• Repeat group summit attempts on the trip at no extra charge. If the whole group did not start or had to turn back, the reserve day can be used for a further attempt. If part of the group reaches the summit, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts for the remaining participants are paid separately
• Group mountaineering and emergency equipment — ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and other necessary items
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• Single occupancy
• National park permit, where applicable
• Early check-in or late check-out at the hotel before the start or after the end of the trip. We always try to agree additional benefits for our guests with our partners, so early check-in or late check-out is often provided free of charge
• Personal equipment
• Additional guides and cooks if the itinerary changes
• Lunches and dinners in Mineralnye Vody
• Additional costs arising from change to the itinerary requested by participants or caused by circumstances the trip does not provide for

The north-to-south Elbrus traverse can be arranged for a private group on dates that suit you, where guides are free. A private format lets us adapt the trip to the group, its experience and its objectives:

• Run the Elbrus traverse for your group alone
• Arrange the climb for a family or a group of friends
• Put together a guiding team sized to the number of participants
• Add days for acclimatisation or recovery
• Change the length of the trip
• Arrange a special format for a corporate group

Before the trip we discuss participants’ fitness and altitude experience, the group composition, the equipment needed and the particular demands of the route. On a traverse it matters especially to allow for the self-sufficient conditions on the north side, the long day at altitude and the descent to the south side of Elbrus. A small group can take a private Elbrus traverse with a personal guide. The number of guides is set by the size of the group: on summit day a strict ratio of no more than three participants per guide applies. You can read more about how this is arranged on the private Elbrus ascent page. Get in touch to discuss dates and receive a quote for your group.

To join this trip you will need:

• A valid passport
• Air or rail tickets to Mineralnye Vody and back
• Medical insurance valid in Russia and covering mountaineering, ascents to at least 6000 m, search and rescue, transport and medical evacuation
• For foreign participants: the documents needed to enter the Russian Federation, including a visa where your nationality requires one

We obtain all the permits and registrations the route requires ourselves. For foreign participants we provide the documents for a visa application and give visa support where needed. We recommend keeping digital copies of your documents on your phone and in cloud storage. There is more on what a policy must cover in our article on insurance for mountaineers.

Important

Before the trip, check the terms of your policy and make sure it covers climbing Elbrus to 5642 m, mountaineering, search and rescue and medical evacuation

The best season for the Elbrus traverse from north to south is June to September. That period usually brings the most favourable conditions for acclimatisation, for the ascent by the northern route, for climbing Elbrus West and for the descent of the south side. Even so, settled weather on Elbrus is not guaranteed in any month. The route crosses two sides of the mountain, and conditions on them can differ markedly. The north side is more self-sufficient, and snow cover usually lasts longer there. After the summit the group descends to the better-served south side, but the high-altitude part of the route still depends on the weather, the state of the snow and visibility. June is the start of the main season. A great deal of snow usually remains on the north side, so conditions there are more distinctly mountaineering in character. Cold spells, strong wind, snowfall and sudden changes in the weather are all possible. July and August are the most popular months for climbing Elbrus. The weather is often more settled then, daylight is longer, and conditions for acclimatising and completing the route are usually better. Even in summer, though, at 5642 m there can be frost, strong wind, snowfall and worsening visibility. September suits participants who prefer quieter routes. The weather can stay favourable, but the temperature falls steadily, daylight shortens and winter conditions become more likely. October to May is not the main season for traverses. Doing the route then calls for winter experience at altitude, appropriate preparation and equipment. Low temperatures, short daylight and difficult weather are felt especially on the self-sufficient north side. At 5642 m the weather can be sharply different from conditions in the valley. The lead guide decides on setting out, on continuing and on whether the traverse can be completed, taking account of the forecast, the state of the route and how participants are feeling. There is more on the seasons in our article on the best time to climb Elbrus.

The trip involves no tents. On the north side of Elbrus you stay in mountain refuges; after the summit, in a refuge on the south side; and before departure, in a hotel in Mineralnye Vody. At the start of the route the group stays in the refuge at Emmanuel Meadow. After the acclimatisation day, participants move up to the high refuge at 3700 m, where they rest, prepare for the climb and spend several nights as set out in the itinerary. Conditions here are simpler than a hotel’s and match the self-sufficient character of the northern route. After climbing Elbrus West and descending the south side, the group stays in a high-altitude refuge. The better infrastructure on the south side means the high-altitude part of the traverse finishes in more comfortable conditions. After coming down from Elbrus, participants travel to Mineralnye Vody and stay in a hotel in twin rooms. Here you can shower, rest and recover before departure. Three meals a day are provided during the mountain section, starting with dinner on the day you arrive. Breakfast is provided at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody on the final day. Lunches and dinners while you are in Mineralnye Vody are paid separately. On summit day the catering allows for the night start, the long ascent of Elbrus West and the subsequent descent to the south side. Prepare the food and drink provided for in the itinerary in advance for the high-altitude crossing. Combining mountain refuges on both sides of Elbrus with a hotel at the end keeps the mountaineering character of the traverse while giving you somewhere to rest at every stage.

Conditions on the Elbrus traverse from north to south change as the route goes on. The north side is self-sufficient with minimal infrastructure, and after the summit the group comes out onto the better-served south side of the mountain. At Emmanuel Meadow and in the high camp at 3700 m, participants stay in mountain refuges. These provide places to sleep, to cook and eat, to rest and to prepare equipment. Conditions are considerably simpler than a hotel’s, so be ready to share the space and to have little of your own. In the high refuge, prepare your clothing and equipment for the night start in advance, keep things tidy and use the available resources carefully. Cold, early starts and long days are a normal part of the trip. Whether you can charge phones and other devices depends on the technical arrangements and on how busy each refuge is. We recommend bringing a power bank or spare cells and not counting on constant access to electricity. Mobile coverage on the north side can be limited and unreliable. Coverage is usually better on the south side, but the quality of signal and internet depends on where you are on the route, on the weather and on the networks. The guides carry the group communication equipment needed on the route. After the summit, participants stay in the refuge on the south side. There is more infrastructure here, but conditions are still those of a high mountain and differ from a hotel. Full hotel comfort comes after the descent and the journey to Mineralnye Vody. toilet and washing facilities are provided where the group stays, but at altitude they are simpler than you would be used to in town. We recommend bringing your own toiletries, a small towel, wet wipes and a personal supply of anything else you need.

Rock and Rent stocks all the good-quality equipment you need for the Elbrus traverse from north to south. If you reserve a set in advance we will prepare it for the start and deliver it to the north side of Elbrus. That means you can arrive with almost no specialist kit at all, even in shorts. We chose this kit against one criterion above all: how well it suits real conditions on Elbrus, where we have been running climbs since 2001.

We have put this list together with a great deal of care. Between them the company’s guides have run several thousand ascents, so there is nothing superfluous here.

Dependable equipment matters especially on a traverse: the trip covers the self-sufficient north side, the ascent of Elbrus West at 5642 m, and a long descent to the south side of the mountain.

Documents:

• Passport
• Air or rail tickets
• Medical insurance
• A voucher for foreign participants

Personal equipment:

• Rucksack of 50-60 litres
• Duffel bag of 60-100 litres
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -15 to -5 °C from June to September inclusive, and -30 to -15 °C from October to May inclusive
• Trekking poles with baskets at least 70 mm across
• Crampons
• Classic ice axe with 2-3 metres of 5-6 mm accessory cord for clipping to your harness
• Ice screw on its own karabiner
• Climbing harness
• Helmet
• Five karabiners, ideally at least three of them large, which are easier to handle in mittens
• Cow’s-tail lanyards

Clothing and footwear:

Is downhill ski clothing suitable for Elbrus?

• Double or triple mountaineering boots, plastic or leather
• Trekking boots
• Waterproof shell: waterproof shell jacket and trousers, ideally rated 10,000/10,000 or better
• Fleece top and bottoms
• Base layer, top and bottoms
• A thick, warm down jacket with a hood; a model suitable for Elbrus usually weighs upwards of about 700 g
• Warm mittens
• Thick ski gloves
• Thin fleece gloves
• Bandana, for sun protection in the valley and to keep your throat or face warm in the cold
• Warm hat
• Warm trekking socks for summit day
• Sun hat
• Trekking trousers and T-shirts, preferably long-sleeved
• Trekking socks, ideally a separate pair for each day

Additional equipment:

• LED head torch with at least 24 hours of battery life
• Category 3-4 sunglasses that fully shield the eyes from side light
• Category 1-2 ski goggles for poor weather
• Vacuum flask, 1 litre, preferably without a push-button lid
• Windproof mask for the lower face; a scarf will partly do the same job
• Good sun cream, SPF 30-50
• SPF 15 lip balm
• Personal first-aid kit
• Elastic bandage and/or a support brace
• Gaiters: not compulsory, but they can be needed, especially in May and June
• Chemical hand warmers: not compulsory, but they can be very useful