Cross of Elbrus, North to South, 10 Days

The Cross of Elbrus from north to south follows the same general logic as the traverse of Elbrus in the same direction. Acclimatisation takes place on the northern side, the main day starts from the shelter at 3700 m, and after the summit the group descends to the southern slope. The essential difference is that not one but both summits of Elbrus are climbed in a single long day at altitude.

The additional summit changes the character of the route substantially. After a long climb from the northern side you have to keep enough strength for the descent to the saddle, for a fresh altitude gain, for the second summit and for the continued descent to the south. The Cross of Elbrus from north to south is therefore among the most demanding trips on the mountain and requires more serious physical preparation than a classic ascent or an ordinary traverse.

On summit day participants gain about 2000 m of altitude to the first summit. The crossing to the second adds roughly a further 350 m of ascent, after which a long descent to the southern side of Elbrus lies ahead. The actual effort depends on the state of the snow and ice, the weather, the line chosen and the pace of the group, but in any case this is one of the longest days at altitude among our Elbrus trips.

Acclimatisation begins on the northern slope, where there are no cable cars and no developed resort infrastructure. Participants live in mountain shelters, carry equipment up and make consecutive acclimatisation hikes. That format allows a gradual adjustment to altitude, to self-supported living and to long physical work.

The northern side shows a different Elbrus, with wide moraine fields, glaciers, volcanic landforms and views of the night-time towns of the Caucasian Mineral Waters. After the East and West summits the group descends to the southern slope with its cable cars, high-mountain shelters and developed infrastructure.

It is precisely the combination of two summits and the crossing of the whole massif that distinguishes the Cross both from an ordinary ascent of Elbrus from the north and from the traverse from north to south. Participants do not return the way they came up but pass in sequence over two quite different sides of the mountain.

The exact order in which the East and West summits are climbed is decided by the lead guide. One variant is to climb the East summit from the northern side, cross the saddle, climb the West summit and then descend by the southern route. The order and the actual line taken may be changed to take account of the weather, the state of the slopes, the speed of the group and the length of the safe time window.

During the ascent participants move in crampons, use climbing harnesses and travel roped on individual sections where necessary. After the first summit it is important to hold an even pace and to keep on top of eating, drinking and your own condition, because a significant part of the route still lies ahead.

A long stretch of work above 5000 m shows the quality of the acclimatisation and each participant’s individual reaction to altitude. Good physical condition does not guarantee that the lack of oxygen will be easy to bear.

The Cross of Elbrus from north to south suits well-prepared participants with experience of long physical efforts. Previous high-altitude experience is desirable, and preparation has to begin well in advance.

The trip is often chosen before an ascent of Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak, Muztagh Ata and other high-altitude expeditions. It helps you test your endurance, your ability to hold a pace and your readiness to keep going after the first big objective. A successful Cross of Elbrus does not, however, guarantee success on a 7000 m peak: long expeditions differ in their self-sufficiency, in multi-day effort and in accumulated fatigue.

Even with good preparation, completing both summits cannot be guaranteed. The lead guide may limit the route to one summit, change the order of movement, choose a different descent or decide to turn back if the weather deteriorates, the safe time window runs out or a participant’s condition does not allow the ascent to continue.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to Emmanuel Glade.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the trip: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. After meeting the guide and the other participants we drive to Emmanuel Glade, the starting point of the route.

We settle into the shelter, rest after the journey and gather for dinner. A detailed briefing then covers the Cross of Elbrus north to south trip, acclimatisation, equipment and the safety rules. The guide explains the sequence of the high-altitude hikes, the specifics of climbing both summits and the subsequent descent to the southern side of the mountain. Night in the shelter at Emmanuel Glade.

Day 2. Additional acclimatisation hike around Emmanuel Glade.

After breakfast we make an unhurried out-and-back hike from base camp. The guide sets the exact route, its length and its high point according to the weather, conditions on the ground and how the group feels. The purpose of the day is to begin adapting to altitude without a sharp gain, to test clothing and boots in movement and to prepare the body for the next hike to 3700 m. After returning we rest and prepare equipment. Dinner and overnight in the shelter.

Day 3. Acclimatisation hike to the high shelter at 3700 m and equipment carry.

After breakfast we make the first acclimatisation hike on the northern route of Elbrus. We climb to the shelter at about 3700 m, moving at a steady pace and watching how everyone feels. The first altitude gain begins the adaptation to the lack of oxygen and introduces the character of the northern slope.

On the way up we carry part of the equipment and supplies that will be needed at the high camp, which reduces the weight of the rucksacks on the final move the following day. After a rest by the shelter we descend to Emmanuel Glade, have dinner and prepare to return to the high-altitude zone. Night in the shelter at Emmanuel Glade. High point of the day about 3700 m.

Day 4. Move up to the high shelter at 3700 m.

After breakfast we climb the familiar route again with the remaining personal items and equipment. Today we do not return to Emmanuel Glade but move into the high shelter, where the main part of the acclimatisation and the preparation for the ascent will take place.

After settling in we organise our space, rest and check the equipment carried up earlier. In the evening the lead guide discusses with the group how everyone feels, the weather forecast and the plan for the hike to the Lenz Rocks. Night in the shelter at about 3700 m.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Lenz Rocks at 4700 m.

After breakfast we begin the main acclimatisation hike of the trip, climbing to the Lenz Rocks at about 4700 m. A long stretch of work well above the place where we sleep lets participants check how the body reacts to altitude and prepare for the coming ascent of both summits of Elbrus.

We move at the pace set by the guide, watch how everyone feels and learn to spread effort evenly over a long altitude gain. After reaching the Lenz Rocks, or the turnaround point set by the lead guide, we descend to the shelter, have dinner and recover. Night in the shelter at about 3700 m. High point of the day about 4700 m. Ascent about 1000 m.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the Cross of Elbrus.

The day is given to recovering after the acclimatisation hike. Sleeping properly, restoring strength and avoiding unnecessary effort before the main stage of the trip all matter. We check personal and group equipment and prepare rucksacks, warm clothing, crampons, harnesses, headtorches, flasks, water and the food provided on the trip.

The lead guide gives the final briefing. We go through the expected order of the East and West summits, the movement across the saddle, how the group works together and the specifics of the long descent to the southern slope. Separately we pack the items that will not be needed during the summits and that will be handed to the porters. After an early dinner we go to bed. Night in the shelter at about 3700 m.

Day 7. Ascent of the East and West summits of Elbrus and descent to the southern slope.

We leave the shelter at night, usually between 02:00 and 04:00. The exact start time is decided by the lead guide according to the forecast, the state of the slopes and the readiness of the group. Before setting out we hand the porters the items that will not be needed during the Cross of Elbrus. They are taken to the Dzhyly-Su springs and then on to the hotel in Mineralnye Vody.

In the planned variant we climb the northern route to the East summit of Elbrus at 5621 m, descend to the saddle and continue to the West summit at 5642 m. The order of the summits and the actual line taken may be changed by the lead guide, who takes account of the weather, the state of the snow and ice, the speed of the group and the length of the safe time window.

After the first summit you have to keep enough strength for the further altitude gain, for the second summit and for the long descent to the south. Whether the route can continue is judged on the spot. On summit day the ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide.

After the summits we descend by the southern route and settle into the high-mountain shelter. Night in the shelter on the southern slope of Elbrus. High point of the day 5642 m.

Day 8. Reserve day for the ascent of Elbrus.

If strong wind, snowfall, poor visibility, the state of the route or the condition of the group prevented the ascent from starting on the main day, the reserve is used for a further attempt at the lead guide’s decision. In that case the group climbs the East and West summits and, in safe conditions, descends to the shelter on the southern side of Elbrus.

If the Cross of Elbrus from north to south was completed on the main summit day, participants rest in the shelter, recover after the long day at altitude and sort out their clothing and equipment. The lead guide decides whether the reserve day is used and what the onward schedule is, taking account of the actual situation on the mountain. Night in the shelter on the southern slope.

Day 9. Descent from the southern slope and return to Mineralnye Vody.

After breakfast we leave the high-mountain shelter and descend from the southern slope of Elbrus. Returning to the developed infrastructure of the southern side completes the active part of the route.

After the descent we drive to Mineralnye Vody and check into the hotel. The remaining time is for rest and recovery after the self-supported acclimatisation in the north, the ascent of both summits and the crossing of the whole Elbrus massif. Night at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody.

Day 10. End of the trip and departure.

After breakfast a transfer is arranged to the airport or to the railway station in Mineralnye Vody. We recommend choosing evening flights and trains so that there is a margin in case the schedule changes because of the weather, the use of the reserve day or the length of the high-altitude route.

This completes the Cross of Elbrus from north to south.

• Hotel accommodation in twin rooms for all nights set out in the itinerary. Please note that hotel check-out is by 12:00.
• Accommodation in the mountain shelters for all nights set out in the itinerary
• All transfers on the trip
• Three meals a day during the mountain part of the trip, beginning with dinner on the first day
• Breakfasts at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody as set out in the itinerary
• Professional guides — a lead guide accompanies the group throughout the trip, and assistant guides join for summit day. The ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide. This does not mean the main group is automatically divided into separate small groups
• Repeat group summit attempts on the trip at no extra charge. If part of the group reaches the summit, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts for the remaining participants are paid separately
• Group mountaineering and emergency equipment — ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and other necessary items
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• Single occupancy supplement
• National park permit, if one is required for the route
• Personal equipment
• Additional work by guides and the cook if the itinerary changes
• Lunches and dinners during the stay at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody
• Other costs arising from deviating from the itinerary or changing it, including additional transport and accommodation

The Cross of Elbrus from north to south can be arranged for a private group on dates that suit you, where guides are free. A private format suits a group of friends, a climbing club or a corporate team of broadly similar fitness. The trip involves self-sufficient acclimatisation on the north side, climbing Elbrus East at 5621 m and Elbrus West at 5642 m within a single long day at altitude, and a descent to the south side of Elbrus. Before confirming, we discuss each participant’s altitude experience, fitness and readiness for a long spell of work at altitude. For a private group we can:

• Adjust the length of the acclimatisation
• Add reserve days
• Increase the number of guides
• Arrange private transfers
• Change the accommodation before and after the climb
• Select equipment from Rock and Rent in advance and have it delivered
• Prepare a separate itinerary in the Elbrus region for accompanying non-climbers

The lead guide sets the exact order of the summits and the line of descent, taking account of the weather, the state of the slopes, the group’s pace and the length of the safe window. A private format lets us adapt how the trip is organised, but it does not override decisions taken for participants’ safety. There is more on private trips on our individual Elbrus ascent page. Get in touch to discuss dates and receive a quote for your group.

To join this trip you will need:

• A valid passport
• Air or rail tickets to Mineralnye Vody and back
• Medical insurance valid in Russia and covering mountaineering, ascents to at least 6000 m, search and rescue, transport and medical evacuation
• For foreign participants: the documents needed to enter the Russian Federation, including a visa where your nationality requires one

Where it is needed we provide visa support for foreign participants and supply the documents required for a Russian visa application. We obtain the registrations and permits the Cross of Elbrus from north to south requires ourselves. If a paid national park permit is required on your dates, its cost is paid separately. We recommend keeping digital copies of your documents on your phone and in cloud storage. There is more on what a policy must cover in our article on insurance for mountaineers.

Important

Check the terms of your insurance policy before the trip. It must state explicitly that it covers mountaineering or climbing, altitude of at least 6000 m, search and rescue, and medical evacuation

The main season for the Cross of Elbrus from north to south is June to September. That period usually brings the most favourable conditions for acclimatising on the north side, climbing Elbrus East and Elbrus West, and descending by the southern route. Even so, settled weather on Elbrus is not guaranteed in any month. The route is especially demanding of the length of the weather window. Participants have to cross both summits within a single day at altitude and keep enough time for a safe descent to the south side. Wind and visibility are therefore assessed not only on the summits but along the whole line of the route. June is the start of the main season. A great deal of snow usually remains on the north side, and some sections can be distinctly wintry. Snowfall, strong wind, frost and sudden changes in the weather are all possible. The lead guide assesses the state of the snow cover and the safe line to take. July and August are the most popular months for climbing Elbrus. The weather is often more settled then, daylight is longer, and conditions for acclimatising are usually better. Even so, above 5000 m there can be frost, ice, strong wind and almost zero visibility even in summer. September suits well-prepared participants who prefer quieter routes. Conditions can stay favourable at the start of the month, but daylight gradually shortens, night temperatures fall, and snowfall and early winter weather become more likely. For a long day over both summits, a margin of daylight matters especially. October to May is not the main season. Doing the Cross of Elbrus from north to south then calls for winter experience at altitude, special preparation and appropriate equipment. Low temperatures, short daylight and brief weather windows raise the demands on participants and on the organisation of the climb considerably. The north and south sides can differ in wind strength, temperature, the state of the snow and visibility, even on the same day. The north side remains more self-sufficient, while the south has developed infrastructure. Finishing the route safely depends on conditions not only on the summits but along the whole descent. The weather in the valley does not reflect conditions at altitude. Even with a clear sky around Mineralnye Vody or in the Elbrus region, at 5642 m there can be strong wind, frost and thick cloud. The lead guide takes the final decision on setting out, on the order of the summits, on continuing and on descending to the south, taking account of the forecast, the actual weather, the state of the slopes and the group’s readiness. There is more on the seasons in our article on the best time to climb Elbrus.

At the start of the trip participants stay in the mountain refuge at Emmanuel Meadow. The north side has minimal infrastructure, so conditions here are simpler than a hotel’s, though they allow you to rest after the stages, eat hot food and prepare for the acclimatisation days. The main high-altitude part of the trip is based in the refuge at about 3700 m. Here the group spends several nights, does the acclimatisation day up to the Lenz Rocks and prepares to climb Elbrus East and Elbrus West. Accommodation is in the refuge buildings, as set out in the itinerary. After completing the Cross of Elbrus from north to south, participants descend to a high-altitude refuge on the south side. The infrastructure here is better than on the north side, but conditions are still those of a high mountain and differ from a hotel. After coming down from Elbrus the group travels to Mineralnye Vody and stays in a hotel in twin rooms. The number of nights in the hotel and in the mountain refuges is set by the itinerary. Single occupancy is possible at extra cost, subject to availability. Three meals a day are provided during the mountain section. Dinner is provided on the first day, and meals thereafter as set out in the itinerary. The diet supports recovery after the acclimatisation days and the sustained physical work at altitude. On summit day the meal pattern is adapted to the night start and to how long the route takes. Participants have breakfast before setting out, and prepare the food, water and flasks for both summits in advance, following the guides’ advice. After the descent to the south side, meals are provided at the refuge. Breakfasts are included during the stay at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody. Participants pay for their own lunches and dinners. Combining mountain refuges on the north and south sides of Elbrus with a hotel at the end lets you complete the self-sufficient part of the trip, recover after both summits and finish in more comfortable surroundings.

Conditions change as the route goes on. The trip begins on the self-sufficient north side of Elbrus, continues in a high-altitude refuge at about 3700 m, and after climbing Elbrus East (5621 m) and Elbrus West (5642 m) finishes on the better-served south side of the mountain. At Emmanuel Meadow participants stay in a mountain refuge. It has beds, an area for eating and the basics you need to rest after the day’s walking. The comfort is not a hotel’s, so be ready for shared accommodation, limited personal space and simple mountain living. The group spends the main acclimatisation part of the trip in the high-altitude refuge at about 3700 m. Keep things tidy, sort out your personal kit in advance and have your equipment ready for each day out. Altitude, low temperatures and the self-sufficiency of the northern route all limit the scope for drying clothing and for the comforts you are used to. Electricity and the chance to charge devices depend on the particular refuge, its technical arrangements and how busy it is. We recommend bringing a power bank, spare cells for your head torch and the charging cables you need. Keep your phone and other electronics somewhere warm, as batteries discharge much faster in the cold. Mobile signal and internet on the north side of Elbrus can be unreliable or entirely absent. Signal quality depends on the network, the altitude, the terrain and the weather. Signal usually improves after the descent to the south side, but do not count on constant internet during the route. Toilets are provided where the group stays, but sanitation at altitude is far simpler than in town. Whether you can shower depends on the particular refuge and on how the trip is actually going. We recommend bringing wet wipes, a small towel, your own toiletries and a supply of any medication you need. Before the main summit day, anything you will not need over the two summits is handed to a porter. It is taken from the high-altitude refuge to the Jily-Su springs, and from there to the hotel in Mineralnye Vody. On the route you carry only the clothing, equipment, food, water and personal items agreed with your guide. After completing the Cross of Elbrus from north to south, the group comes out onto the infrastructure of the south side, where conditions become more comfortable. After descending to the valley and travelling to Mineralnye Vody, participants stay in a hotel where they can shower, dry their clothing, charge their devices and recover properly after a long route at altitude.

Rock and Rent stocks all the good-quality equipment you need. You can fly in wearing shorts, especially if you reserve a set in advance. By prior arrangement we will deliver hire equipment to the north side of Elbrus. We chose this kit against one criterion above all: how well it suits conditions on Elbrus, where we have been running groups since 2001. This list is built on the experience of the company’s guides, who between them have run several thousand ascents, so we do not think there is anything superfluous in it. Dependable, well-chosen equipment matters especially on the Cross of Elbrus from north to south. The trip involves self-sufficient acclimatisation on the north side, a long climb of Elbrus East and Elbrus West, and a descent to the south side of the mountain.

Documents:

• Passport
• Air or rail tickets
• Medical insurance
• A voucher for foreign participants

Personal equipment:

• Rucksack of 50-60 litres
• Duffel bag of 60-100 litres
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -15 to -5 °C from June to September inclusive, and -30 to -15 °C from October to May inclusive
• Trekking poles with baskets at least 70 mm across
• Crampons
• Classic ice axe with 2-3 metres of 5-6 mm accessory cord for clipping to your climbing harness
• Ice screw on its own karabiner
• Climbing harness
• Helmet
• Five karabiners, ideally at least three of them large, which are easier to handle in mittens
• Cow’s-tail lanyards

Clothing and footwear:

Is downhill ski clothing suitable for Elbrus?

• Double or triple mountaineering boots, plastic or leather
• Trekking boots
• Waterproof shell: waterproof shell jacket and trousers, ideally rated 10,000/10,000 or better
• Fleece top and bottoms
• Base layer, top and bottoms
• A thick, warm down jacket with a hood; a model suitable for Elbrus usually weighs upwards of about 700 g
• Warm mittens
• Thick ski gloves
• Thin fleece gloves
• Bandana, for sun protection in the valley and to keep your throat or face warm in the cold
• Warm hat
• Warm trekking socks for summit day
• Sun hat
• Trekking trousers and T-shirts, preferably long-sleeved
• Trekking socks, ideally a separate pair for each walking day

Additional equipment:

• LED head torch with at least 24 hours of battery life
• Category 3-4 sunglasses that fully shield the eyes from side light
• Category 1-2 ski goggles for poor weather and limited visibility
• Vacuum flask, 1 litre, preferably without a push-button lid
• Windproof mask for the lower face; a scarf will partly do the same job
• Good sun cream, SPF 30-50
• SPF 15 lip balm
• Personal first-aid kit
• Elastic bandage and/or a support brace
• Gaiters: not compulsory, but they can be needed, especially in May and June
• Chemical hand warmers: not compulsory, but they can be very useful