Climb Kazbek and Elbrus — 10-Day Two-Summit Expedition

The Kazbek and Elbrus trip is an extended version of the classic ascent of Kazbek from the south. In a single trip participants climb Kazbek, 5033 m, travel from Georgia to Russia and climb the western summit of Elbrus, 5642 m.

This format means you do not return to the same part of the Caucasus twice, and it makes the fullest use of the acclimatisation you gain. The main altitude gain happens on Kazbek, where participants walk up, cover long stages and spend several nights high on the mountain.

Within this trip Kazbek is climbed from the Georgian side by the classic route through the meteorological station. Kazbek has more demanding terrain than the classic southern route on Elbrus: the group crosses the glacier, moves in crampons, works roped and uses mountaineering equipment.

The main accommodation on the Kazbek stage is planned in a guest house or hotel in Kazbegi and in the meteorological station hut. In high season, when the hut is busy, some of the nights may be spent in tents beside it. That possibility is discussed with participants in advance and depends on what accommodation is actually available.

Once the Kazbek stage is complete the group travels to Russia and continues on the southern slope of Elbrus. Here the cable cars and the high mountain hut are used, so the move to the next ascent takes less time and does not require the full acclimatisation trip to be repeated.

The acclimatisation gained on Kazbek usually makes the altitude of Elbrus easier to tolerate. A successful ascent of the first summit does not, however, guarantee reaching the second. The weather, the state of the route, accumulated fatigue and how the participants are feeling are all assessed separately before each departure.

The classic Elbrus stage can be changed for a private group. Instead of the usual ascent from the south it is possible to arrange a traverse of Elbrus from north to south, or the Cross of Elbrus route. Changes of that kind require the logistics, the length of the trip, the number of guides and the cost to be agreed separately.

The trip suits participants who want the experience of two different routes in one trip. Kazbek gives a long walking acclimatisation and an introduction to glacier terrain, while the southern slope of Elbrus lets you use developed infrastructure and concentrate on the climb to 5642 m.

Day 1. Meeting in Kazbegi and the start of the trip.

We meet participants in Kazbegi, also known as Stepantsminda. For those arriving from Tbilisi or Vladikavkaz a transfer is arranged on request in advance.

After checking into the hotel there is an introduction to the guide and the group. We review the Kazbek and Elbrus itinerary, check personal equipment and brief the group on the route and the safety rules. In the evening, dinner and rest before the active part of the trip begins. Night in a hotel in Kazbegi.

Day 2. Acclimatisation excursion to the Holy Trinity church, 2170 m.

After breakfast we set off for the Holy Trinity church at Gergeti, at about 2170 m. This first acclimatisation excursion starts the adaptation to altitude, lets you check how you feel and prepares you for the longer stage to the meteorological station.

During the excursion the guide assesses the group’s pace and looks at clothing, footwear and how personal equipment is distributed. Back in Kazbegi participants rest and have dinner at their own expense. Night in a hotel.

Day 3. Over the Saberce pass to the meteorological station, 3600 m.

After breakfast the high-altitude part of the trip begins. The first section is covered by vehicle, after which we continue on foot towards the Saberce pass, at about 3600 m.

The route crosses a high valley and a glacial zone. Participants carry their own belongings unless porter services have been ordered in advance. After a long stage we reach the meteorological station, settle in and rest. In high season, when the hut is busy, the night may be spent in tents beside it. The stage takes about 7–9 hours. Night at the meteorological station or in tents.

Day 4. Acclimatisation excursion to the chapel at 4000 m.

We make an acclimatisation excursion to the chapel at about 4000 m. The gradual gain in altitude helps the body prepare for the ascent of Kazbek and lets participants test their condition well above the overnight altitude.

During the excursion the group goes over the skills of moving on high-mountain terrain and becomes familiar with the terrain ahead. Having reached the planned altitude we return to the meteorological station, rest and recover. Night at the meteorological station or in tents beside the hut. Maximum altitude of the day about 4000 m.

Day 5. Rest and preparation for the ascent of Kazbek.

The day is given to recovery before the main climb on Kazbek. Participants rest, check clothing, footwear and mountaineering equipment, and prepare rucksacks, food and water.

The guide assesses the forecast, the state of the route and the condition of the group, and then gives the final briefing. We go through the start time, the order of travel, rope-team procedures and what to do if the weather or a participant’s condition changes. Night at the meteorological station or in tents beside the hut.

Day 6. Ascent of Kazbek, 5033 m.

An early rise and departure. The exact start time is set by the lead guide, taking into account the forecast, the state of the snow and ice and the readiness of the group. The climb follows the classic route from the Georgian side and includes a long stretch on the glacier.

Participants move roped together in crampons, following the guides’ instructions. On summit day a ratio of 1 guide to 3 participants is observed. The climb to the summit usually takes about 6–8 hours and depends on the state of the route, the weather and the group’s pace.

After reaching the summit of Kazbek, 5033 m, we make a short stop and begin the descent to the meteorological station. Until we are back at the hut it is necessary to stay concentrated and to keep to the rules for moving on the glacier. Night at the meteorological station or in tents beside the hut. Maximum altitude of the day 5033 m.

Day 7. Reserve day, or descent to Kazbegi.

The reserve day is used if the weather, the state of the route or the condition of the group prevented the ascent of Kazbek the day before. The decision on a further attempt is taken by the lead guide on the basis of the actual conditions.

If the ascent took place on day 6, the group descends from the meteorological station to Kazbegi. After the long stage we check into the hotel, rest and prepare for the journey to Russia. Night in a hotel in Kazbegi.

Day 8. Journey from Kazbegi to the Elbrus region and the lift to the hut at 3888 m.

After breakfast we set off from Kazbegi for the Elbrus region. The route crosses the state border between Georgia and Russia, so participants must have with them all the documents required for entry and for crossing the border.

On arrival at the southern slope of Elbrus we take the cable car up to the high mountain hut at 3888 m.

In September the cable car may be closed for scheduled maintenance. If the lift cannot be used, the guide decides the onward logistics according to the actual situation; if necessary a vehicle is hired for the ascent. If its cost exceeds the price of a cable-car ticket, participants pay the difference. We settle in, rest after the journey and prepare equipment for the ascent of Elbrus. The acclimatisation gained on Kazbek makes it possible to move to the high-altitude part without additional acclimatisation days on Elbrus. Night in the hut.

Day 9. Ascent of the western summit of Elbrus, 5642 m.

We set off early in the morning. The exact start time is set by the lead guide, taking into account the weather forecast, the state of the slope and the readiness of the group. The climb to the western summit of Elbrus follows the classic southern route.

On summit day a ratio of 1 guide to 3 participants is observed. A snowcat may be used to shorten part of the route, on the way up or on the way down. That decision must be taken and agreed no later than 12:00 on the previous day.

The length of the climb depends on the weather, the state of the route and the group’s pace, and is usually about 8–12 hours. After reaching the western summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, we begin the descent to the high mountain hut. Night in the hut. Maximum altitude of the day 5642 m.

Day 10. Reserve day, descent and the end of the trip.

A reserve day is provided in case unfavourable weather or other circumstances prevented the ascent of Elbrus on the main day. The decision to use the reserve day is taken by the lead guide.

If the ascent took place the day before, we descend by cable car to the valley after breakfast and travel to the airport. The scheduled transfer time is 15:00. We recommend choosing flights no earlier than 19:30, to keep a margin for the journey and for possible delays.

If the reserve day is needed for the ascent, the schedule for the descent and departure may change. When booking tickets, therefore, allow for the trip to be adjusted because of the weather.

• A Mountain Guide team leader throughout the trip
• Mountain guides on the Kazbek and Elbrus summit days — strictly at a ratio of 1 guide to 3 participants
• Accommodation in Kazbegi in a guest house or hotel in twin rooms, for the number of nights set out in the itinerary
• Nights at the meteorological station or in tents beside it, as set out in the itinerary
• Accommodation in the high mountain hut on Elbrus, for the number of nights set out in the itinerary
• Meals during the mountain part of the trip
• Breakfasts at the hotels
• All the transfers set out in the itinerary, including the cable cars, from the airport or railway station and back
• Group equipment: ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and a group first-aid kit

• International flights
• Porter services for personal baggage
• Personal equipment
• Lunches and dinners during the stay in Kazbegi
• Medical insurance and the costs of search and rescue and evacuation
• Visas and consular fees, where these are required for your citizenship
• A national park permit, where one is required for the route
• The snowcat on Elbrus summit day, if it is used; it is charged separately at the current rate for the ascent, the descent or both
• The single occupancy supplement
• Personal expenses: drinks, internet, telephone calls and anything else not provided for in the itinerary
• Additional costs arising from a change to the itinerary or a departure from the original route
• The supplement for the alternative vehicle lift if the cable car is closed for maintenance in September and the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable-car ticket

The Kazbek and Elbrus climbs can be arranged for a private group on dates that suit you, where guides are free and conditions on both routes are suitable. The format suits groups of friends, climbing clubs and corporate groups of broadly similar fitness. Before confirming, we discuss participants’ experience, how they cope with altitude, their skills in crampons and on a rope, the group composition and the equipment needed. The logistics between Georgia and Russia are agreed separately, since the trip runs across two countries. For a private group we can:

• Choose start dates that suit you
• Arrange a dedicated guide
• Increase the number of guides
• Add acclimatisation or reserve days
• Arrange private transfers from Tbilisi or Vladikavkaz
• Book porters for personal baggage on the Kazbek stage
• Change the accommodation arrangements, subject to availability
• Select and have hire equipment delivered from Rock and Rent
• Extend the Elbrus stage with both summits, a traverse or the Cross route
• Prepare a separate arrangement for accompanying non-climbers

The length of the trip, the number of guides and the route option are agreed according to the group’s preparation. The lead guide still takes the decision on setting out, on tactics and on whether each climb can continue, based on the weather, the state of the route and how participants are feeling. Check the requirements for entering Georgia and Russia, for crossing the border and for visas against your own nationality in advance. There is more on the private format on our individual Elbrus ascent page. Get in touch to discuss dates and receive a quote for your group.

To join this trip you will need:

• A passport valid for entry to Georgia and Russia
• Air or rail tickets
• Medical insurance valid in Georgia and Russia and covering mountaineering, ascents to at least 5642 m, search and rescue, transport and helicopter evacuation
• Visas and any other entry documents for Georgia and Russia, where your nationality requires them
• The documents you need to return to your country of residence or to travel onward

Where it is needed we provide visa support for foreign participants and supply the documents required for a Russian visa application. Check Georgia’s entry requirements separately, against your own nationality. We recommend keeping digital copies of your documents on your phone and in cloud storage. If a paid national park permit or additional registration is required on your dates, we will tell participants in advance. The permit fee is paid separately. Check the terms of your insurance policy before the trip. It must state explicitly that it covers mountaineering or climbing, a maximum altitude of at least 5642 m, search and rescue, and helicopter evacuation in both countries. There is more on the requirements in our piece on insurance for mountaineers.

The main season for climbing Kazbek and Elbrus is June to September. This period usually brings the most suitable conditions for the glacier route on Kazbek, the journey between the two countries, and the subsequent climb of Elbrus from the south. What makes a combined trip distinctive is that it needs two suitable weather windows. Conditions on Kazbek and Elbrus can differ considerably even on consecutive days. Good weather on the first summit is no guarantee of favourable conditions on the second. June is the start of the main season. A great deal of snow remains on Kazbek, and parts of the glacier can still be in winter condition. Hidden crevasses and the strength of snow bridges have to be assessed carefully. Snowfall, strong wind and low temperatures are also possible on Elbrus at this time. July and August are the most popular months for climbing both summits. Longer windows of settled weather are more common then, and the long daylight hours make the longer routes easier. At the same time the meteorological station is busier, so on some dates accommodation on Kazbek may be in tents beside the refuge. September suits well-prepared participants who prefer quieter routes. Conditions often stay favourable at the start of the month, but the temperature falls steadily, daylight shortens, and snowfall and early winter weather become more likely. From October to May, Kazbek and Elbrus are in winter or shoulder-season conditions. A combined climb in that period needs separate arrangements, serious experience of winter routes at altitude, and specialist equipment. The standard trip is designed above all for the summer season. On Kazbek the main weather factors are the state of the glacier, snowfall, cloud and visibility. On Elbrus there is the added difficulty of strong wind, which can lower the felt temperature considerably and make continuing unsafe. At 5033-5642 m, frost, snow, ice and almost zero visibility are possible even in summer. The weather in Kazbegi or the Elbrus region does not reflect the actual conditions on the summits. There is more on the seasons in our piece on the best time to climb Elbrus. The decision to set out, to continue or to turn back is taken separately for Kazbek and for Elbrus. The lead guide takes account of the forecast, the actual weather, the state of the route, the group’s pace and how participants are feeling.

Over the course of the trip you stay in turn in a hotel or guest house in Kazbegi, at the meteorological station on Kazbek, and in a high-altitude refuge on the south side of Elbrus. The number of nights in each place follows the itinerary. Accommodation in Kazbegi is in twin rooms. Here you rest after the journey, do the first acclimatisation day, prepare for the move up to the meteorological station and recover after the Kazbek climb. The high-altitude part of the Kazbek route is based at the meteorological station. In high season, when the refuge is busy, nights may be spent in tents beside it. Be ready for simpler accommodation and limited personal space. After the Kazbek stage the group moves to the Elbrus region and takes the cable car up to the high-altitude refuge on the south side of Elbrus at 3888 m. Here you are staying on the route itself and preparing for the climb of Elbrus West. The price includes meals during the mountain sections and breakfasts at the hotels. On Kazbek and Elbrus the catering allows for work at altitude, long stages and early starts. Lunches and dinners while you are staying in Kazbegi are paid for by participants themselves. That lets you choose cafes and restaurants to suit yourself. On summit days the meal pattern allows for the early start and the long hours at altitude. You prepare your own snacks, water and flask in advance, following the guides’ advice. Tell us about dietary restrictions, allergies and vegetarian preferences before the trip starts. Whether individual requirements can be met depends on conditions in the mountain refuges and on the food available. Combining Kazbegi, the high meteorological station and the Elbrus refuge lets you do two sections of quite different character: the longer walking route on Kazbek, and the Elbrus climb using the infrastructure of the south side.

Conditions change as the trip goes on. In Kazbegi you stay in a hotel or guest house, then move up to the high-altitude conditions of the meteorological station, and after that travel to Russia and stay in the refuge on the south side of Elbrus. The hotel or guest house in Kazbegi has the usual comforts: beds, bed linen, a shower, electricity and somewhere to charge your devices. It is a good place to sort out clothing and equipment for the move to the meteorological station. Conditions at the meteorological station are considerably simpler than a hotel’s. Be ready for shared accommodation, limited personal space and more basic toilet and washing facilities. In high season, when the refuge is busy, you may sleep in tents beside it. Whether you can charge devices at the meteorological station depends on the technical arrangements and on how busy it is. We recommend bringing a power bank, spare cells for your head torch and the charging cables you need. Keep your phone and batteries warm, as they discharge much faster in the cold. Mobile signal and internet on the mountain sections can be unreliable or entirely absent. Signal is usually better in Kazbegi, but do not count on a constant one on the way to the meteorological station or during the climb. The guides use the communication and navigation equipment set out in the itinerary. On the Elbrus stage you stay in a high-altitude refuge at 3888 m. It has what you need to sleep, eat and prepare for the climb, but the level of comfort is not a hotel’s. Whether you can charge devices, and the quality of the signal, depend on how busy the refuge is, on the technical arrangements and on the weather. Toilet and washing facilities in the mountain refuges are simpler than in town. We recommend bringing your own toiletries, wet wipes, a small towel and enough of any medication you take. If you are accommodated in tents on Kazbek, the facilities are more limited still. On the walk up to the meteorological station you carry your own belongings, unless porters have been booked in advance. Pack so that your documents, warm clothing, water and other essentials stay quickly accessible. During the journey from Georgia to Russia, keep your passport and other border documents on you rather than in your baggage. We recommend keeping digital copies of your documents on your phone and in cloud storage. The trip brings together three different kinds of accommodation: hotel conditions in Kazbegi, a more self-sufficient set-up on Kazbek, and a high-altitude refuge on Elbrus. Being ready for that change in comfort is an important part of preparing for the Kazbek and Elbrus climbs.

Rock and Rent stocks all the good-quality equipment you need for the Kazbek and Elbrus climbs. If you book in advance we will make up a set and deliver it for the start of the Kazbek section. We chose this kit against one criterion above all: how well it suits conditions on Elbrus, where we have been running groups since 2001. This list is built on the experience of the company’s guides, who between them have run several thousand ascents, so we do not think there is anything superfluous in it. The set must suit long walking stages and the glacier route on Kazbek, as well as the Elbrus climb. A mat and sleeping bag are needed in case you are accommodated in tents beside the meteorological station.

Documents:

• Passport
• Passport
• Air or rail tickets
• Medical insurance
• A voucher for foreign participants

Personal equipment:

• Rucksack of 30-40 litres
• Duffel bag of 80-100 litres
• Foam sleeping mat
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -15 to -5 °C from June to September inclusive, and -30 to -20 °C from October to May inclusive
• Trekking poles with baskets at least 70 mm across
• Crampons
• Classic ice axe with 2-3 metres of 5-6 mm accessory cord for clipping to your climbing harness
• Climbing harness
• Helmet
• Five karabiners, ideally at least three of them large, which are easier to handle in mittens
• Cow’s-tail lanyards

Clothing and footwear:

Is downhill ski clothing suitable for Elbrus?

• Double or triple mountaineering boots, plastic or leather
• Single-layer mountaineering boots may only be used together with overboots — not to be confused with gaiters
• Trekking shoes or trekking boots
• Trekking boots are recommended in May and early June, as snow can remain on the first acclimatisation days
• From mid-June to the end of September boots can be swapped for waterproof trekking shoes, though boots give the ankle better support
• Waterproof shell: waterproof shell jacket and trousers, ideally rated 10,000/10,000 or better
• Fleece top and bottoms
• Base layer, top and bottoms
• A thick, warm down jacket with a hood, weighing roughly 700 g or more
• Warm mittens
• Thick ski gloves
• Thin fleece gloves
• Bandana, for sun protection in the valley and to keep your throat or face warm in the cold
• Warm hat
• Warm trekking socks for the summit days
• Sun hat
• Trekking trousers and T-shirts, preferably long-sleeved
• Trekking socks, ideally a separate pair for each walking day

Additional equipment:

• LED head torch with at least 12 hours of battery life
• Category 3-4 sunglasses that fully shield the eyes from side light
• Category 1-2 ski goggles for poor weather and limited visibility
• Vacuum flask, 1 litre, preferably without a push-button lid
• Windproof mask for the lower face; a scarf will partly do the same job
• Good sun cream, SPF 30-50
• SPF 15 lip balm
• Personal first-aid kit
• Elastic bandage and/or a support brace
• Gaiters: not compulsory, but they can be needed, especially in May and June
• Chemical hand warmers: not compulsory, but they can be very useful

The guides check participants’ equipment before the trip starts. If anything is missing, or the kit does not suit conditions on the routes, it has to be put right before you go into the mountains.