Climb Ama Dablam, 6812 m — 24-Day Expedition with Island Peak

Ama Dablam is one of the most recognisable and most technical commercial summits in Nepal. At 6812 m the main demands are not only the thin air but confident movement on exposed terrain, work on fixed ropes and precision of action after several nights at altitude.

The trip builds its acclimatisation through the Khumbu valley. The group passes Namche Bazaar, Pangboche, Pheriche and Lobuche, visits Everest Base Camp and climbs Kala Patthar. Participants then move to Chhukhung, sleep in a high camp and make an attempt on Island Peak. Only after that does the independent Ama Dablam part of the expedition begin.

That sequence delivers a substantial volume of altitude before the main objective, but it does not turn Ama Dablam into a simple route. Island Peak works as a test of acclimatisation, fitness and technique. The guide may decline to clear a participant for the next stage if their speed is insufficient, if they make mistakes with their equipment or if there is a health problem.

On Ama Dablam the expedition uses a Base Camp and three high camps. Establishing the camps, carrying the necessary equipment, resting and choosing the window are all part of the expedition tactics. Four reserve days follow the planned summit day, but they do not guarantee suitable weather or a safe condition of the route.

Ama Dablam should be considered after technical ascents at lower altitude, not as a first experience of mountaineering. Altitude, cold, wind, rockfall, icing and the state of the fixed ropes all call for conservative decisions. Study the prevention of altitude illness in advance and complete your technical preparation. A Mountain Guide expedition leader works with groups of 4 participants or more; on summit day there is a separate assistant guide for every participant.

Before the technical section it is important to compare your experience and your personal kit against what the route demands. The final requirements are set by the expedition leader.

Day 1. Arrival in Kathmandu.

Participants make their own way to Kathmandu, where a member of the team meets them and takes them to the hotel. After checking in there is an introduction to the leader, a check of technical equipment and a briefing on the 24-day expedition. Anything unsuitable must be replaced before departure. In the evening there is a group dinner. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Drive to Ramechhap, flight to Lukla, 2860 m, and walk to Phakding, 2610 m.

The group leaves for Ramechhap airport on the confirmed schedule and flies to Lukla. After collecting the baggage there is an easy walk through the villages and farms of the Dudh Koshi valley to Phakding. A first night below Lukla lets the acclimatisation begin without an unnecessary gain in altitude. Night in a lodge.

Day 3. Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3440 m.

The trail crosses the Dudh Koshi on suspension bridges, passes through Monjo and the Sagarmatha National Park and, beyond Jorsalle, climbs to Namche Bazaar. This is the first serious high-altitude load. The guide watches the pace, hydration and how each participant is feeling. Night in a lodge.

Day 4. Acclimatisation in Namche Bazaar, 3440 m.

The group spends a second night at the same altitude and makes an acclimatisation walk with a return to camp. Where it goes depends on the weather and the condition of the team. The purpose of the day is to adapt before the stages above 3900 m and to make an early assessment of how each participant reacts to altitude. Night in a lodge.

Day 5. Walk to Pangboche, 3928 m.

The stage takes about 5–6 hours and alternates between descents and climbs. As you go, Ama Dablam becomes the main landmark of the route. On arrival participants rest and prepare for the next night above 4200 m. Night in a lodge.

Day 6. Walk to Pheriche, 4240 m.

The route comes out into more open high-mountain terrain and in places runs above gorges and torrents. The group moves without forcing the pace. In the evening the guide assesses the participants’ condition and confirms the arrangements for reaching the moraine of the Khumbu glacier. Night in a lodge.

Day 7. Walk to Lobuche, 4940 m.

Participants climb onto the plateau and approach the moraine of the Khumbu glacier. At this altitude recovery slows down, so rest, fluid intake and preparing warm clothing matter on arrival. The day creates the necessary step before a night above 5100 m. Night in a lodge.

Day 8. Gorak Shep, 5164 m, and Everest Base Camp, 5364 m.

After the walk to Gorak Shep the group settles in and continues to Everest Base Camp. The rocky path along the glacier requires energy in reserve for the way back. The guide may shorten the excursion because of the weather or the participants’ condition. Return to Gorak Shep. Night in a lodge.

Day 9. Kala Patthar, 5645 m, and descent to Dingboche.

An early climb up Kala Patthar serves as a viewpoint excursion and a check of high-altitude readiness before Island Peak. After returning to Gorak Shep the group descends to Dingboche. Losing altitude helps recovery, but the long day requires an even distribution of effort. Night in a lodge.

Day 10. Walk from Dingboche to Chhukhung.

The group turns into the Imja valley and walks to Chhukhung. The stage brings participants closer to Island Peak and gives time to recover after Kala Patthar. In the evening the guide checks the technical kit again and explains the procedure for moving up to the high camp. Night in a lodge.

Day 11. Climb to the Island Peak high camp.

A stage of about 5–6 hours crosses rocky high-mountain terrain. Once the tents are up, participants prepare crampons, harness, ice axe, ascender, headtorch and clothing for the night start. The guide assigns the rope teams and announces the wake-up time. Night in tents.

Day 12. Ascent of Island Peak, 6165 m, and descent to Chhukhung.

The start is in the middle of the night. The climb takes roughly 6–7 hours and the descent to camp about 3–4 hours. After a rest the group continues to Chhukhung. The altitude reached, the speed, the technique and the recovery all form part of the decision about continued participation in the expedition. Night in a lodge.

Day 13. Walk to Ama Dablam Base Camp.

The group leaves Chhukhung and moves to the Base Camp of the main summit. The day connects the acclimatisation route with the technical part of the expedition. On arrival participants settle in, take delivery of group equipment and learn how the camp is organised. Night in tents.

Day 14. Rest and preparation at Base Camp.

The day is used to recover after Island Peak, to check the participants’ condition and to prepare personal and group equipment. Acclimatisation on Kala Patthar and Island Peak reduces the need for extra high-altitude excursions, but it does not replace technical preparation for Ama Dablam. The leader confirms the state of the fixed ropes, the composition of the rope teams, the equipment carries, the pattern of nights and the possible turnaround points. The plan for the rotation and the summit attempt may be moved within the reserve days if the weather or the team’s recovery calls for a pause. Night in tents.

Day 15. Climb to Camp 1.

The high-altitude rotation on Ama Dablam begins. Participants climb to Camp 1 with their personal kit and the necessary loads. The night there is not only about progress towards the summit: it tests recovery after the preliminary acclimatisation, the performance of the equipment and the ability to hold a pace on Ama Dablam terrain. The leader assesses each participant’s readiness for the more technical section the following day. Night in tents.

Day 16. Climb to Camp 2.

The group continues the rotation and climbs to Camp 2. On the technical sections participants move on fixed ropes, keep their spacing and follow the guides’ commands. The purpose of the day is to pass the key rock terrain safely, to carry up the necessary equipment and to conserve resources for the rest of the route. Once in camp, food, water, protection from the cold and a further check of the kit matter particularly. Night in tents.

Day 17. Climb to Camp 3.

Participants climb to the last planned camp before the summit. This is the final stage of the rotation and at the same time the start of the summit attempt itself. The leader compares the forecast, the state of the route, the speed of the rope teams and the participants’ recovery. If there is no safe window, the schedule may be moved within the reserve or the team descends. Once a departure is confirmed, clothing, headtorches, water and technical kit are prepared before resting. Night in tents.

Day 18. Ascent of Ama Dablam, 6812 m, and descent to Base Camp.

The start is at night. Participants move with individual assistant guides at a ratio of one to one. The turnaround time and the highest point reached are determined by the weather, the state of the fixed ropes, the pace and how each climber is feeling. Reaching the summit is not guaranteed. After the attempt a long technical descent through the high camps begins; it is the safe return, not a photograph on the summit, that remains the main measure of a successful day. Night in tents or at the confirmed accommodation.

Day 19. Helicopter flight to Kathmandu.

In suitable conditions a flight from the Base Camp area to Kathmandu is planned. It may be flown with a change in Lukla; the routing and the timing depend on the aviation situation and the weather. Whether this segment is included and what it costs must be confirmed before booking. On arrival, check-in and rest. Night in a hotel.

Day 20. Reserve day.

The first reserve is used if the rotation or the summit attempt has had to be postponed because of the weather, the state of the route or insufficient recovery by a participant. If the mountain section has been completed as planned, the day is left for recovery in Kathmandu. The reserve does not mean an automatic second attempt: the decision rests with the leader, taking the team’s resources and safety into account.

Day 21. Reserve day.

The day keeps an additional window for completing the summit attempt and the technical descent. It matters particularly if the rope teams need more time between camps or if conditions do not allow safe movement on the fixed ropes. Using the reserve changes the subsequent logistics, which the expedition leader coordinates.

Day 22. Reserve day.

The day may be needed to bring every participant and all the equipment back to Base Camp, to wait for safe flying weather or to recover after a long descent. If the group is already in Kathmandu, the time is used for rest. No additional activities are planned until the mountain section is confirmed as actually complete.

Day 23. Reserve day.

The last reserve separates the expedition from the international flight and reduces the risk of losing a ticket to some weather and aviation delays. It does not cover every event beyond the operator’s control, so choose the return flight only once the full duration of the trip has been agreed. The leader confirms that the route is complete and the time of the airport transfer.

Day 24. End of the trip.

After breakfast there is a transfer to the international airport. Participants check in themselves. Choose the return ticket with the full duration of the trip and possible flight delays in mind.

• Mountain Guide expedition leader for groups of 4 participants or more
• Assistant guides on Ama Dablam summit day — one guide per participant
• Meeting and seeing off at Kathmandu international airport
• Accommodation in a 4-star hotel in Kathmandu — 2 nights
• Lodge accommodation on the trekking section
• Accommodation and meals in tents during the climbs
• Group equipment — high-altitude tents, gas, stoves and ropes
• Porters for the group equipment and the Base Camp supplies
• A soft duffel bag for personal belongings — provided on arrival
• The Ama Dablam climbing permit
• The permits and entry fees required for the confirmed trekking route
• The mandatory rubbish fee

Whether the group drive to Ramechhap, the domestic flight and the helicopter segment from the Base Camp area to Kathmandu are included must be checked in the confirmation of the specific package.

• International flights
• The domestic flight to Lukla
• The Nepal visa — a 30-day visa covers the length of the trip; the fee is set by the Nepalese authorities and paid by the participant
• Mountaineering medical insurance covering climbing to an altitude of at least 6812 m, rescue operations and helicopter evacuation
• Single occupancy
• Early check-in, late check-out and additional nights
• Lodge meals on the trekking section — USD 30–50 a day
• A personal porter for a participant’s baggage — USD 30 a day including transport. In a trekking group one porter may carry the belongings of two participants
• Personal climbing and trekking equipment
• Tips for the local team
• Costs arising from ending your participation early
• Additional costs caused by delays, the weather or forced change to the itinerary

The expedition can be arranged for a closed group of experienced climbers, a club or a corporate team with confirmed technical and altitude preparation. Before booking we agree the dates, a Russian-speaking leader, the assistant team, personal porters, the accommodation and the reserve. Tailoring the trip must not shorten the acclimatisation through Everest Base Camp, Kala Patthar and Island Peak without a separate assessment by the leader. Clearance for the main summit remains individual, and the ratio of one assistant per participant on summit day is kept. This expedition is not suitable for families with children. Whether a non-climbing companion can come, and their separate logistics, are confirmed before booking, because this depends on permits, accommodation and the make-up of the team. A Russian-speaking leader and a strengthened local team must be booked in advance.

Prepare your documents before you buy non-refundable tickets. The permits, the internal flight and the insurance policy are issued against your passport details. The spelling of your first name and surname must match exactly across every confirmation. Check the current visa requirements and the passport validity you need on the website of the Nepal Department of Immigration for your own nationality. Mountain Guide does not arrange visas and does not sell air tickets.

Documents

• A passport that meets Nepal’s current requirements
• A tourist visa or another valid entry permit
• International and domestic air tickets
• An insurance policy covering mountaineering to at least 6812 m, rescue and helicopter evacuation
• Your policy number and the insurer’s 24-hour emergency contact details
• Your booking confirmation and the organisers’ contact details
• Documents for a participant under 18, where these apply
• Digital copies of your passport, visa, tickets and insurance
• Waterproof document wallet

The local team obtains the Ama Dablam permit and the permissions for the confirmed route. Photographs and document copies must be provided by the deadline the organisers set.

The expedition dates are chosen for the usual periods when Himalayan routes are open, before or after the summer monsoon. The particular season and the state of the fixed ropes are confirmed before the trip. The trekking section can bring rain, snow and delays to the Lukla flights. In the high camps the decisive factors are wind, sub-zero temperatures, ice and the state of the technical ground. Conditions on Island Peak give no advance indication of the state of Ama Dablam. Four reserve days give the leader more options in choosing a window, but they do not guarantee the summit. Helicopter departures also depend on the weather. Plan your international flight for after the trip has fully finished.

Two nights in a 4-star hotel in Kathmandu are included. The specific property and room type are named in the confirmation. Single occupancy, early check-in, late check-out and additional nights are paid separately. On the approach the group stays in lodges, and in the high camps on Island Peak and Ama Dablam in tents. The standard of the lodges falls as you gain height. The tented camps have no hotel facilities, and personal space and washing are limited. Meals in the tents during the climbs are included. In the lodges participants order and pay for their own meals. The menu depends on the village, and drinks and personal snacks are not included. Tell us about any dietary restrictions in advance.

Showers and water. A hot shower may be offered for a charge in some lodges. It is not guaranteed at base camp or in the high camps, so your toiletries need to let you manage without a shower for several days.

Toilets. Conditions in the lodges vary from village to village. The tented camps use a field toilet arrangement. A head torch is essential for moving about at night.

Power and charging. Charging in the lodges may cost extra and may be limited. There are no sockets in the high camps. You need a high-capacity power bank, spare cells and batteries.

Internet and phone signal. Mobile signal and Wi-Fi are available only on part of the approach. There may be no ordinary signal in the high camps, so warn family and friends in advance.

Laundry and drying. Proper laundry is not planned on the mountain section. You need a supply of dry underwear, socks and gloves, and dry bags to keep wet and dry things apart.

You bring all of your own personal equipment. Mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe or tool, harness, ascender, descender and sleeping bag are agreed with the guide before the trip. The set must suit Island Peak, the three high camps on Ama Dablam and technical work on fixed ropes.

Documents

• Passport
• Air tickets or e-ticket receipts
• Mountaineering medical insurance
• Digital copies of your documents
• Waterproof cover

Personal and technical equipment

• Rucksack of about 60 litres
• Soft duffel bag, provided locally
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -20 to -30 °C
• Insulated sleeping mat
• Two trekking poles with baskets at least 70 mm across
• Steel crampons
• Classic ice axe with a steel pick, or an ice tool agreed with the guide
• Climbing harness
• Climbing helmet
• 3 karabiners
• Cow’s-tail lanyards
• Ascender
• Descender
• Mug, spoon and bowl

Clothing and footwear

• Triple or double mountaineering boots; doubles preferably with an outer overboot
• Broken-in waterproof trekking boots
• Light footwear for towns and lodges
• waterproof shell jacket and waterproof trousers
• Fleece set
• Base layer, top and bottoms
• Thick down jacket with a hood
• Warm mittens
• Thick and thin gloves
• Buff or bandana
• Warm hat
• Warm trekking socks
• Gaiters

Useful extras

• Head torch with at least 12 hours of battery life
• Power bank
• Sunglasses
• Ski goggles
• Rain jacket
• Vacuum flask, 1 litre, without a push-button lid
• SPF 50 sun cream
• Lip balm with sun protection
• Chemical hand warmers, optional
• Personal first-aid kit
• Elastic bandage or a personal support brace
• Personal toiletries and a quick-drying towel
• Toilet paper