Climb Island Peak and Mera Peak — 24-Day Two-Summit Expedition

This expedition joins two different parts of the Khumbu region. The first half follows the classic valley to Namche Bazaar, Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar, then turns through Chhukhung to Island Peak. After that climb the group does not return by the usual trail: it crosses the high Amphu Laptsa pass towards the Hinku valley and Mera Peak.

The combination uses acclimatisation already gained: before Island Peak participants sleep above 5000 m and climb Kala Patthar, and they reach Mera Peak after the first summit and a pass of 5850 m. That saves a separate trip, but it increases the total load. There is no full recovery at low altitude between the two attempts, so each participant’s condition is assessed again.

Island Peak involves more pronounced technical work on the ice section. Mera Peak is higher and makes serious demands on endurance and on performance at altitude. The Amphu Laptsa adds a demanding stage of its own between the summits. The guide decides the line, the method of protection and the acceptable turnaround time according to the current state of the terrain.

The expedition suits climbers who have already been above 5000 m and are confident with crampons, ice axe, harness, ascender and descender. Without those skills it is more sensible to choose a single summit first.

The sequence of high-altitude nights, the two reserve days and the work of the assistant guides reduce the manageable risks, but they give no guarantee. Altitude, cold, the state of the glaciers and accumulated fatigue remain the decisive factors. Before the trip, study the prevention of altitude illness and the principles of high-altitude acclimatisation, so that you understand the purpose of the intermediate excursions and why the guide may change the tactics.

A Mountain Guide expedition leader accompanies groups of 4 participants or more. For a group of up to 3 participants a Nepalese guide works with the team. On summit days the number of assistants is calculated at no more than three participants per guide.

Day 1. Arrival in Kathmandu.

Participants make their own way to Kathmandu, where a member of the team meets them and takes them to the hotel. After checking in there is an introduction, a check of technical equipment, distribution of baggage and a briefing on the 24-day route. Anything unsuitable must be replaced before departure. In the evening there is dinner at a Nepalese restaurant. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Drive to Ramechhap, flight to Lukla, 2860 m, and walk to Phakding, 2610 m.

The group leaves for Ramechhap airport on the confirmed schedule and flies to Lukla. After collecting the baggage there is an easy walk through the villages and farms of the Dudh Koshi valley to Phakding. A first night below Lukla lets the acclimatisation begin without an unnecessary gain in altitude. Night in a lodge.

Day 3. Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3440 m.

The trail crosses the Dudh Koshi on suspension bridges, passes through Monjo and the Sagarmatha National Park and, beyond Jorsalle, climbs to Namche Bazaar. This is the first serious high-altitude load. The guide watches the pace, hydration and how each participant is feeling. Night in a lodge.

Day 4. Acclimatisation in Namche Bazaar, 3440 m.

The group spends a second night at the same altitude and makes an acclimatisation walk with a return to camp. The exact route is decided by the weather and the condition of the team. The purpose of the day is to adapt before the stages above 3900 m and to identify each individual’s reaction to altitude early. Night in a lodge.

Day 5. Walk to Pangboche, 3928 m.

The stage takes about 5–6 hours and alternates between descents and climbs. As you go, views of Ama Dablam open up. On arrival participants rest and prepare for the next night above 4200 m. Night in a lodge.

Day 6. Walk to Pheriche, 4240 m.

The route comes out into more open high-mountain terrain and in places runs above gorges and torrents. The group moves without forcing the pace. In the evening the guide assesses the participants’ condition and confirms the arrangements for reaching the moraine of the Khumbu glacier. Night in a lodge.

Day 7. Walk to Lobuche, 4940 m.

Participants climb onto the plateau and approach the moraine of the Khumbu glacier. At this altitude recovery slows down, so rest, fluid intake and preparing warm clothing matter on arrival. The day creates the necessary step before a night above 5100 m. Night in a lodge.

Day 8. Gorak Shep, 5164 m, and Everest Base Camp, 5364 m.

After the walk to Gorak Shep the group settles in and continues to Everest Base Camp. The rocky path along the glacier requires energy in reserve for the way back. The guide may shorten the excursion because of the weather or the participants’ condition. Return to Gorak Shep. Night in a lodge.

Day 9. Kala Patthar, 5645 m, and descent to Dingboche.

An early climb up Kala Patthar serves as a viewpoint excursion and a check of high-altitude readiness before Island Peak. After returning to Gorak Shep the group descends to Dingboche. Losing altitude helps recovery, but the long day requires an even distribution of effort. Night in a lodge.

Day 10. Walk from Dingboche to Chhukhung.

The group turns into the Imja valley and walks to Chhukhung. This stage brings participants closer to Island Peak and gives time to recover after Kala Patthar. In the evening the guide checks the technical kit again and explains the procedure for moving up to the high camp. Night in a lodge.

Day 11. Climb to the Island Peak high camp.

A stage of about 5–6 hours crosses rocky high-mountain terrain. Once the tents are up, participants prepare crampons, harness, ice axe, ascender, headtorch and clothing for the night start. The guide assigns the rope teams and announces the wake-up time. Night in tents.

Day 12. Ascent of Island Peak, 6165 m, and descent to Chhukhung.

The start is in the middle of the night. The climb takes roughly 6–7 hours and includes a snow and ice section. From the point reached, the group descends to camp in about 3–4 hours, rests and continues to Chhukhung. Clearance for the summit and the turnaround time are set by the lead guide. Night in a lodge.

Day 13. Reserve day for Island Peak.

The day is kept in case of poor weather, a change in the condition of the ice section or a postponed attempt. If the reserve is not used, participants recover in Chhukhung and prepare their equipment for the self-contained crossing of the Amphu Laptsa. The lead guide decides the tactics from there. Night in a lodge.

Day 14. Walk to the camp below the Amphu Laptsa pass.

The group leaves the inhabited valley for a high camp below the pass. The route crosses glacial and rocky terrain. Once the tents are up the team prepares ropes and personal equipment, and participants rest before an early technical stage. Night in tents.

Day 15. The Amphu Laptsa pass, 5850 m.

An early start is needed to cross this difficult snow and ice pass in the most suitable conditions. The group acts on the guides’ instructions and uses technical equipment on the sections where it is required. Beyond the high point the descent to the next camp begins. How long it takes and how the party is protected depend on the actual state of the route. Night in tents.

Day 16. Walk to Kongme Dingma.

After the pass the group continues across remote rocky terrain to Kongme Dingma. The trail is faint in places, so participants keep to the group’s pace and stay with the team. The day is used to reduce the load after the pass and to prepare for the approach to Mera Peak. Night in a refuge.

Day 17. Walk to the Mera Peak camp.

The group climbs over snow and rocky ground to the base or high camp of Mera Peak. Which camp is used is chosen by the team according to the state of the route and the readiness of the participants. After settling in there is rest, food and the final preparation for the night start. Night in tents.

Day 18. Ascent of Mera Peak, 6476 m, and descent to Khare.

The start is in the middle of the night. The climb over ice and snow terrain takes roughly 6–8 hours. After a short stop at the point reached, the group descends to camp in about 3–4 hours and then continues to Khare. This is the second high point of the expedition and one of its hardest days. Night in a lodge.

Day 19. Reserve day for Mera Peak.

The day is used if the attempt has to be moved, if there is a delay on the approach or if extra recovery is needed. Whether a second departure is possible is assessed by the lead guide, taking the weather and the team’s resources into account. If the reserve is not needed, participants rest in Khare. Night in a lodge.

Day 20. Descent to Kote.

The group begins a long loss of altitude through the Hinku valley. The air becomes richer, but after two summits and a pass the accumulated fatigue is still high. On the descent it is important to stay attentive and not to accelerate on the uneven trail. Night in a lodge.

Day 21. Descent to Thuli Kharka.

The route continues through alpine meadows and the forest zone. The day returns participants to milder conditions and is used for recovery before the final stage. In the evening the guide checks the weather and the flight information. Night in a lodge.

Day 22. Walk to Lukla.

The final walking stage brings the group to Lukla. After checking in, the team prepares the baggage for the flight and confirms the departure time. In the evening there is a group dinner to mark the end of the expedition. Night in a lodge.

Day 23. Flight to Ramechhap and return to Kathmandu.

In suitable weather the group flies from Lukla to Ramechhap and returns to Kathmandu by transfer. The arrival time depends on how the mountain airport is operating. After checking into the hotel, participants rest and prepare for the international flight. Night in a hotel.

Day 24. End of the trip.

After breakfast there is a transfer to the international airport. Participants check in themselves. Choose return tickets with the weather risk at Lukla and the reserves built into the trip in mind.

• Mountain Guide expedition leader for groups of 4 participants or more
• A Nepalese mountain guide for groups of up to 3 participants
• Assistant guides on summit days — no more than 3 participants per guide
• Meeting and seeing off at Kathmandu airport
• Accommodation in a 4-star hotel in Kathmandu — 2 nights
• Accommodation in lodges and confirmed refuges on the trek
• Accommodation and meals in tents on the high-altitude stages
• Group equipment — high-altitude tents, gas, stoves and ropes
• Porters for the group equipment and the tented-camp supplies
• A soft duffel bag for personal belongings — provided on arrival
• Climbing permits for Island Peak and Mera Peak
• The permits and entry fees required for the confirmed route
• The mandatory rubbish fee

• International flights
• Domestic flights Ramechhap – Lukla – Ramechhap
• Transfers Kathmandu – Ramechhap airport – Kathmandu
• The Nepal visa — a 30-day visa covers the length of the trip; the fee is set by the Nepalese authorities and paid by the participant
• Personal climbing and trekking equipment
• Mountaineering medical insurance covering climbing to an altitude of at least 6476 m, rescue operations and helicopter evacuation
• Single occupancy
• Early check-in, late check-out and additional nights
• Lodge meals during the trek — USD 30–50 a day
• A personal porter for a participant’s baggage — USD 30 a day including transport. In a trekking group one porter may carry the belongings of two participants
• Tips for the local team
• Costs arising from ending your participation early
• Additional costs caused by delays, the weather or forced change to the itinerary

The two six-thousanders can be combined for a closed group of experienced friends, a climbing club or a corporate team with confirmed preparation. Before booking we agree the dates, the working language, the guides and assistants, personal porters, accommodation in Kathmandu and any additional reserve. Adapting the trip must not shorten the acclimatisation, split the team on remote stages, or remove reserve days without a risk assessment. Each participant is cleared for Island Peak, the Amphu Laptsa and Mera Peak in turn. The lead guide’s decision is binding. A Russian-speaking leader from the Mountain Guide team and a strengthened local guiding team must be booked in advance.

Prepare your documents before you buy non-refundable tickets. Both permits, the internal flights and the insurance policy are issued against your passport details. The spelling of your first name and surname must match exactly across every confirmation. Check the current visa requirements and the passport validity you need on the website of the Nepal Department of Immigration for your own nationality. Mountain Guide does not arrange visas and does not sell air tickets.

Documents

• A passport that meets Nepal’s current requirements
• A tourist visa or another valid entry permit
• International and domestic air tickets
• An insurance policy covering mountaineering to at least 6476 m, rescue operations and helicopter evacuation
• Your policy number and the insurer’s 24-hour emergency contact details
• Your booking confirmation and the organisers’ contact details
• Documents for a participant under 18, where these apply
• Digital copies of your passport, visa, tickets and insurance
• Waterproof document wallet

The local team obtains the permits for both summits and the permissions for the confirmed route. Photographs and document copies must be provided by the deadline the organisers set.

Dates are chosen for the periods when high-altitude routes are usually open, before or after the summer monsoon. Over 24 days the group crosses different valleys and aspects, so good weather on Island Peak is no guarantee of the same conditions on the Amphu Laptsa or Mera Peak. The lower trails can bring rain and humidity. Above 5000 m there is snow, wind, ice and sub-zero temperatures. The state of the glaciers and the pass changes, so the line to take, whether to rope up and the turnaround time are decided on the spot. Two reserve days add flexibility, but they do not cover every possible delay. Flights to Lukla depend on the weather, and a forced change on one stage affects the whole sequence. Plan your international departure with a margin.

Two nights in a 4-star hotel in Kathmandu are included. The specific property and room type are named in the confirmation. Single occupancy, early check-in, late check-out and additional nights are paid separately. In the inhabited sections the group stays in lodges, and after Chhukhung and on the high-altitude stages in tents or a confirmed refuge, as set out in the itinerary. The standard of the lodges falls the further you go. In the tented camps participants live in expedition conditions, without hotel facilities. Meals on the tented stages are included. In the lodges participants order and pay for their own meals. The menu in the remote valley is limited, and drinks and personal snacks are not included. Tell us about any dietary restrictions in advance.

Showers and water. A hot shower may be offered for a charge in some lodges, but it is not guaranteed higher up or on the self-sufficient section. Your toiletries need to let you manage without a shower for several days.

Toilets. Conditions in the lodges vary from village to village. The tented camps use a field toilet arrangement. A head torch is essential at night.

Power and charging. Charging in the lodges may cost extra and may be limited. There are no sockets on the pass or in the camps. You need a high-capacity power bank, spare cells and batteries.

Internet and phone signal. There is a signal only on part of the route, and it can be absent for several days at a stretch between Chhukhung and the Hinku valley. Warn family and friends about this in advance.

Laundry and drying. Proper laundry is not planned on the high-altitude and self-sufficient sections. A supply of dry underwear, socks and gloves, and dry bags, are essential.

You bring all of your own personal equipment. Boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, ascender, descender and sleeping bag are agreed with the guide before the trip. The set must suit two summits, a technical pass and several nights under canvas at once.

Documents

• Passport
• Air tickets or e-ticket receipts
• Mountaineering medical insurance
• Digital copies of your documents
• Waterproof cover

Personal and technical equipment

• Rucksack of about 60 litres
• Soft duffel bag, provided locally
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -20 to -30 °C
• Insulated sleeping mat
• Two trekking poles with baskets at least 70 mm across
• Steel crampons
• A classic ice axe, or an ice tool agreed with the guide
• Climbing harness
• Climbing helmet
• 3 karabiners
• Cow’s-tail lanyards
• Ascender
• Descender
• Mug, spoon and bowl

Clothing and footwear

• Triple or double mountaineering boots
• Broken-in waterproof trekking boots
• Light footwear for towns and lodges
• waterproof shell jacket and waterproof trousers
• Fleece set
• Base layer, top and bottoms
• Thick down jacket with a hood
• Warm mittens
• Thick and thin gloves
• Buff or bandana
• Warm hat
• Warm trekking socks
• Gaiters

Useful extras

• Head torch with at least 12 hours of battery life
• Power bank
• Sunglasses
• Ski goggles
• Rain jacket
• Vacuum flask, 1 litre, without a push-button lid
• SPF 50 sun cream
• Lip balm with sun protection
• Chemical hand warmers, optional
• Personal first-aid kit
• Elastic bandage or a personal support brace
• Personal toiletries and a quick-drying towel
• Toilet paper