Boots for Elbrus have to keep the foot warm, hold it in place and work with crampons, all at once. There is no single model “for everyone”: the summer south route, May snow, the north side and a winter ascent each call for a different margin of insulation. The decision follows from the programme, the season and how sensitive to cold you personally are.
Which footwear does not work
Ordinary trekking boots without enough stiffness or crampon compatibility may do for acclimatisation walks lower down, but not for summit day. Winter boots made for the city are not built for long hours of work on the slope either. The marketing word “mountaineering” guarantees nothing on its own.
Single or double boots
In a single boot the insulation is built into the structure. A double boot has a removable inner boot or two functional layers, which usually gives a greater margin of warmth and makes drying easier. For the main summer season the particular choice depends on the model and the forecast; in the cold months a warmer system is more often needed. Agree the class of boot with the organiser before you buy.
How to get the size right
- try boots on in the second half of the day, when the foot has swollen a little;
- wear socks of the thickness you will actually walk in;
- your toes should not press into the front on the descent;
- the heel should not lift noticeably with every step;
- do not try to build a margin of warmth out of two over-thick socks if they squeeze the foot;
- check both feet: size and shape can differ.
Crampon compatibility
Crampons come as strap-on, semi-automatic and automatic models. The boot needs the stiffness and the welts that suit the system you choose. The check is done on the actual pair: the crampon must not come off, move about or distort the boot. Once it is adjusted, the straps are fastened and the loose ends stowed.
How to break them in
New boots must never be worn for the first time on summit day. Start with short walks, then increase the time and add descents. Check your socks, the insoles and the places where pressure builds. A plaster helps at the first sign of rubbing, but it does not correct the wrong last.
Buying or hiring
Hiring makes sense for a first ascent, provided you can try several sizes on beforehand and check the condition. Confirm the model, the crampon system, whether an exchange is possible and the return time. Buying is justified if you travel regularly or have an awkward foot shape, but only after a fitting; the same size on the box sits differently from one brand to the next.
How to keep your feet warm
- do not tighten the lacing to the point where it restricts circulation;
- keep the boots dry and air the inner boots;
- keep a dry pair of socks for summit day;
- move your toes at every stop;
- tell your guide straight away about persistent numbness or pain.
The final choice
First choose the route and the date in the section on Elbrus programmes, then ask for the current list. The general requirements are set out in the article on equipment for Elbrus. For hire, use the mountain equipment section, but book your size in advance.
A practical check: before you buy or hire, check the footwear requirements against the chosen programme for climbing Elbrus from the south and confirm that the boots work with the crampons.