Every year some 1000-1200 climbers succeed in taking on the 38th highest summit in the world – McKinley. Of those 1200 lucky people only half use the services of professional travel companies; the rest have to rely on climbing McKinley independently. The reason for the split has nothing to do with a wish to save money or to prove their heroism in practice. The fact is that there are only six travel companies in the United States to which Denali National Park and Preserve issues permits to run paid guided ascents of McKinley.
In other words, if you are unlucky when it comes to spare funds, you have two options: either put the climb off until “luckier” times, or set out on your own..
The first problem climbers run into at the very start of this long and demanding Denali ascent is paperwork. While obtaining an American visa is not usually difficult, securing climbing permission from the authorities at Denali National Park and Preserve will cost you far more time and effort. Above all, the National Park will ask you for proof of your mountaineering and ski experience. Another task is to convince the authorities that you are going to Alaska purely in the interests of mountaineering and have no intention of working there as a guide. But if all goes well, you will get your permit and, together with your team, make that long-cherished journey to Alaska.
Since 1995 Denali National Park and Preserve has required a compulsory paid permit for climbing Denali, which today costs 300 dollars per person. The fee rises every two years. One condition is obligatory: you must register your team no later than 60 days before you arrive. After that you have 30 days in which you may add members to the main party, paying an extra deposit for each of them.
Every McKinley climbing programme begins and ends in Alaska’s principal city, Anchorage. There are several decent hotels here, as well as tented campsites. Under United States customs rules and Alaska’s own laws, almost all food may not be brought into the state – and in any case it is not cheap. Anchorage is therefore also the main place to stock up on food and any kit you are still missing.
From there most climbers follow the classic route to the summit of McKinley, known as the West Buttress. The West Rib is also popular, as are the West Rib Cut (a simplified version of the Denali route along the West Rib) and, of course, the Cassin Ridge.
You can read more about the technical side of preparing an independent ascent in our article about McKinley. If you are not ready to handle all the difficulties yourself, the simplest option is to buy a McKinley trip from us. We will take on every part of organising and running the expedition!