This grand tour of North East India runs to 29 days and crosses four states: Assam, Meghalaya, Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh. The route starts at Guwahati airport and finishes at Jorhat. It is not a series of day trips from one hotel but a long expedition line, with road journeys, safaris, short treks, ferry crossings and accommodation of varying standard.
The first part of the trip links Manas National Park, Chandubi lake and the villages of the Rabha people with Shillong, Cherrapunji, Nongriat and Mawlynnong. Participants meet the natural world of Assam and Meghalaya, walk to the living root bridges and visit settlements where traditional crafts and rural life remain part of the everyday.
After the safari at Kaziranga the route continues through Kohima, Mon and Longwa in Nagaland. The group then returns to Assam and visits the villages of the Tai Phake and Singpho peoples. Attending any particular festival, ceremony or private home is possible only where the dates coincide and the hosts agree, and is not a guaranteed part of every trip.
The longest stage runs through Arunachal Pradesh by way of Tezu, Roing, Pasighat, Along, Daporijo and the Ziro valley. Here the cultural activities alternates with long road journeys and simple accommodation. The closing part leads to the island of Majuli, after which the group transfers to Jorhat for the return flight.
No mountaineering experience is required, but the length of the trip should not be underestimated. The trip includes early starts, road journeys of many hours on roads of varying quality, steps and uneven trails down to Nongriat, heat, humidity and possible rain. You need ordinary physical fitness, mobility, patience with changes to the road schedule and a readiness to stay not only in town hotels but also in lodges, guest houses and traditional homes.
Safaris at Manas and Kaziranga are run under the rules in force in each park. Sightings of rhinoceros, elephants, tigers, birds or other animals are not guaranteed in advance. The format of a safari and the accessibility of particular zones, ferries and natural sites depend on the weather, the state of the roads and decisions by the local administrations.
Meetings with local communities take place with the host team present. Participants must observe the rules on photography, must not enter private or religious spaces without invitation, and should not treat the villages as a staged attraction. The guide may change the order of visits if an event would disturb the daily life of residents or if access is restricted.
Entry to India and access to particular districts of Arunachal Pradesh require documents and permits whose composition depends on the participant’s nationality and on the rules in force. International and domestic tickets, entry documents and connections must be agreed before any non-refundable fare is bought.
Day 1. Guwahati — Manas National Park
Arrival at Guwahati airport, where our representatives meet the group with a traditional Assamese welcome. From the airport a comfortable vehicle takes you to Manas National Park, about 4 hours. On arrival you check into your resort or jungle lodge. In the evening we visit a nearby Bodo village and get a first sense of the culture of the indigenous population of Manas, then return to the resort or lodge. Overnight: your resort or lodge in Manas National Park. Meals included: dinner.
Day 2. Manas National Park, jungle safari
An early start for an elephant-back safari deep into the forests of the Manas National Park UNESCO World Heritage site, where you see the varied wildlife of Manas from the height of an elephant’s back. After the return to the lodge and breakfast we set out on a jeep safari into the deeper zones of the Manas forest reserves. In the evening we visit nearby tea plantations and relax by a campfire. A Bodo dance performance is arranged for the group at the resort or lodge. Overnight: your resort or lodge in Manas National Park. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 3. Manas National Park — Chandubi
After an early breakfast we set out for the Chandubi lake area near Guwahati, 4–5 hours. This is a natural lagoon formed by the great earthquake of 1897. The Chandubi area holds some of the most intact and biodiverse forest in Assam. The forest reserves here are home to tigers, wild elephants, hoolock gibbons, leopards, Burmese pythons, lorises and many bird species. Chandubi is also home to the Rabha people. We arrive in the afternoon and check into the Chandubi Jungle Camp. After lunch we make a short walk into the Chandubi forest reserves. In the evening we enjoy a traditional Rabha dinner together with the local rice wine. Overnight: Chandubi Jungle Camp at Chandubi. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 4. Chandubi
Today we explore nearby waterfalls and visit a local Rabha village, where we see weaving on a traditional loom and the making of bamboo crafts. In the evening a Rabha cultural performance is arranged at the Chandubi Jungle Camp. Overnight: Chandubi Jungle Camp at Chandubi. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 5. Chandubi — Shillong
Today we say goodbye to Assam and travel to the East Khasi Hills and Shillong, in the state of Meghalaya, where the atmosphere is entirely different. On one side is a modern world of fashion-conscious young people; on the other, a traditional way of life where people sell their produce in traditional dress. On arrival in Shillong you check into a guest house. In the evening we visit Police Bazar, where the old archery game of Teer can be seen, walk around Ward’s Lake and visit the Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians. Overnight: guest house in Shillong. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 6. Shillong — Mawphlang — Cherrapunji — Nongriat
In the morning we travel to Mawphlang, site of the Sacred Grove of the Khasi Hills. We make a short walk through the forest and learn about the meaning of the Khasi sacred groves and about the varied trees and orchids growing there. If you wish, you can instead walk the David Scott Trail, one of the most scenic routes in Meghalaya. We then continue to Cherrapunji, where we visit the Nohkalikai waterfall and explore the Arwah caves. After that we head for the village of Tyrna, from where the walk down to the village of Nongriat begins. In Nongriat we stay in a simple local home. Here you see the unique feat of bio-engineering that is the Umshiang double-decker living root bridge. In the evening there is time to explore Nongriat. Overnight: basic accommodation in the village of Nongriat. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 7. Nongriat — Cherrapunji — Mawlynnong
Today we walk back from Nongriat to Tyrna and travel on to Mawlynnong, described as the cleanest village in Asia. Mawlynnong is a small village where around 100 Khasi families have kept it clean for many years, which earned it that title. On arrival we stay in a traditional Khasi house. Later we visit the balancing rocks and the Nohwet viewpoint, which looks out over the plains of Bangladesh. In the evening we walk through the village and take part in preparing traditional Khasi food at one of the guest houses. Overnight: traditional house in Mawlynnong. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 8. Mawlynnong — Kaziranga National Park
After breakfast we set out for Kaziranga National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, 6–7 hours. The drive is accompanied by views of the lush tea plantations of Assam. On arrival at Kaziranga we check into an eco camp. After lunch we visit the Orchid and Biodiversity Park, the largest orchid park in India, where you see many orchid species of North East India together with a crafts and textiles museum, a rice museum, a cactus garden and a bamboo garden. On the open stage there are traditional Mishing dances and the Bihu dance. We return to the camp for the night. Overnight: eco camp at Kaziranga National Park. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 9. Kaziranga National Park — Kohima
Early this morning we set out on a jeep safari deep into the forest zones of Kaziranga National Park. The park, which holds the largest population of the Indian one-horned rhinoceros, is known for the variety of its flora, fauna and birdlife. After the safari we return to camp for breakfast and then travel on to the state of Nagaland and the town of Kohima, arriving before sunset and checking into the hotel. Overnight: comfortable hotel in Kohima. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 10. Kohima
Kohima is the capital of Nagaland and a lively town, home to the Angami people. It is known worldwide for the Hornbill Festival, the «festival of festivals», held every year in the first week of December. Organised by the tourism department of the Government of Nagaland, it shows the rich culture and heritage of the indigenous peoples of Nagaland. Over ten days the tribes perform and show their life to visitors from around the world. The festival also includes international rock concerts, vintage car rallies, Naga chilli and pork-fat eating contests, garden shows, craft and textile exhibitions and traditional events. If you are visiting Nagaland outside December, this itinerary still takes you to places that illustrate the life of the main Nagaland tribes. In the morning we travel to the village of Khonoma near Kohima. Khonoma is an Angami village known as the only «green village» in North East India. Its inhabitants avoid felling trees and use sustainable farming methods. At the entrance to the village you see the rice terraces where local people cultivate around 40 different varieties of rice. Khonoma is known as the village that resisted British rule for many years. Many local people gave their lives fighting the British occupation, but surrendered in 1879. Khonoma fort stands as a monument to those battles, and memorials to the fallen can be seen here. Khonoma is a rural Angami village of mud houses with thatched roofs, alongside modern houses of brick and concrete. We visit local homes and, in particular, the traditional kitchens. These are a remarkable sight, with meat hung to smoke above the hearth. The hearths are mostly wood-fired, and the smoke that fills the room gives the meat its smoky flavour. There is a chance to try traditionally brewed rice beer and local dishes, especially akhuni, and rice cooked over an open fire. We explore the green village of Khonoma and see the traditional wrestling that local people still practise. Young boys begin learning it early and demonstrate it for guests of the village. It is a distinctive form of wrestling, markedly different from other styles practised in India, and the rules are explained before a bout so that you can follow it. After lunch at a traditional guest house in Khonoma we drive back to Kohima. Here we visit the Kohima War Cemetery, where more than 500 Allied soldiers who fell in the Second World War are buried; it was built and is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. We then visit Kohima Cathedral, the largest cathedral in North East India, and return to the hotel for the night. Overnight: comfortable hotel in Kohima. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 11. Kohima — Touphema — Mokokchung
Today we leave Kohima and travel to the Mokokchung district of Nagaland, the land of the Ao Naga. On the way to Mokokchung we stop at the museum village of Touphema. This is another Angami village and a popular visitor destination near Kohima. Touphema has a dedicated Angami craft and weaving centre, where local women weave fine cloth by hand. The traditional Angami huts at Touphema are worth seeing in themselves. Every February the Angami people of Touphema celebrate the Sekrenyi festival, a purification rite in which people use purified water to clean their homes and their village and drive out evil spirits for the year ahead. After Touphema we continue to Mokokchung, arriving before sunset and checking into a comfortable hotel. Overnight: comfortable hotel in Mokokchung. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 12. Mokokchung
Today we explore the fine hill station of Mokokchung, land of the Ao Naga, one of the ancient head-hunting tribes of Nagaland. The day begins with a visit to Longkhum, a local Ao Naga village known for the practice of the animist Lima religion, in which people worship the god Lungkijingba. It is a very scenic village, surrounded by rhododendron trees and with magnificent views over the mountains and valleys. We also visit the homes of Ao Naga craftspeople who make fine crafts and textiles. Later we explore Ungma, the second largest village in Mokokchung and considered the place of origin of the Ao Naga. Local people work hard to preserve their ancient heritage and culture. The Ao Naga, once known as among the fiercest head-hunters, migrated here from Mongolia. Today they farm, garden and pursue other work to support themselves. Most members of the tribe have converted to Christianity and follow the Baptist faith. As a result many people in the district are well educated and hold key positions in the administration of Nagaland. We close the day at the district museum in Mokokchung, which shows the ancient customs, practices and daily life of the Ao Naga. If your trip falls in May, you can also see the traditional Moatsu Mong festival, with its songs and dances. We return to the hotel for the night. Overnight: comfortable hotel in Mokokchung. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 13. Mokokchung — Sivasagar
Today we travel from Nagaland into Assam, to the lands of the great Ahom kingdom at Sivasagar, arriving in the afternoon. Our first stop is Charaideo Maidam, also known as the pyramids of India. These ancient burial mounds of the Ahom kings bear a resemblance to the Egyptian pyramids. Legend holds that an Ahom king was buried with his favourite possessions, servants, pets and even wives. Because of those stories the burials were attacked by robbers, and of 150 only 21 are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India. We then visit Kareng Ghar, the summer palace of the Ahom kings and an example of the grand architecture of the Ahom kingdom, dating back some 500 years. We explore the palace and then check into a comfortable hotel in Sivasagar. Overnight: comfortable hotel in Sivasagar. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 14. Mon — Longwa — Mon
Today we explore the land of the legendary Konyak tribe in the village of Longwa, near Mon. The Konyak are the last surviving head-hunters of Nagaland. Their houses are decorated with human skulls, which once signified status and power. Longwa is also of interest because half of it lies in India and half in Myanmar. We visit the house of the village chief, the Angh, which stands partly in India and partly in Myanmar. If your trip falls in April, you will see the Aoleang Monyu festival, a colourful tribal celebration. After the visit we return to Mon. Overnight: comfortable accommodation in Mon. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 15. Mon — Naharkatia
Today we leave Mon in Nagaland, home of the Konyak, and return to Assam, to the village of Tipam near Naharkatia. This village is home to the Tai Phake people of Assam. Tipam is a scenic village set against lush green rice fields and the Dehing Patkai hills. The Tai Phake, descendants of the Shan kingdom of Myanmar, are Buddhists and lead a traditional rural life under the guidance of the village elder. To promote ecotourism and show their culture to the world the Tai Phake have created an ecotourism camp. We arrive in Tipam and check into the Tai Phake ecotourism camp. After a good lunch of tupula bhat, traditional rice, along with boiled leafy vegetables, herbs and meat cooked to traditional recipes, we set out to explore the nearby Tai Phake villages. We see how local people live a simple life of farming, animal husbandry, fishing and weaving. In the evening we return to the eco camp for the night. Overnight: Tai Phake ecotourism camp at Tipam. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 16. Naharkatia — Margherita
Today we travel to Margherita to learn about the traditions of the Singpho people in the villages of Inthong and Ketetong. The route passes through the Dehing Patkai reserve forest. Our first stop is Digboi, the legendary oil town of Assam, home to the oldest oil refinery in Asia and the oldest working oil well in the world. In Digboi we visit the Second World War cemetery, where more than 150 Allied soldiers are buried, and then the oil museum, which tells the history of oil extraction in India. We then continue to Margherita, where we check into the Singpho eco lodge. In the evening we visit the Singpho villages at Inthong and Ketetong. These villages are home to many tribes, and the residents will offer you traditional Singpho tea, phalap. We return to the eco lodge for the night. Overnight: Singpho eco lodge at Margherita. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 17. Margherita — Tipong — Margherita
In the morning we visit the old Buddhist monastery near the Singpho eco lodge. After breakfast we set out for the Tipong coal mines. The route passes through Ledo and the historic Stilwell Road, built by the American army during the Second World War. At Tipong we see some of the oldest working steam locomotives in the world, such as David and 796. We also visit the village of Lalpahar, home to the Sumi Naga, one of the warrior tribes of Nagaland. After that we go for lunch at a local restaurant in Jagun and then return to Margherita to visit the only coal museum in India. We return to the eco lodge for the night. Overnight: Singpho eco lodge at Margherita. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 18. Margherita — Namsai — Tezu
Today we leave Margherita and travel to Tezu in the state of Arunachal Pradesh. We cross the border between Assam and Arunachal Pradesh, where documents are checked: an Inner Line Permit for Indian citizens, a Protected Area Permit for foreign nationals. On arrival we are met by green hills and the snow peaks of the Mishmi range. We stop in Namsai for lunch and try traditional Adi cuisine. After that we head for Chowkham to visit the Golden Pagoda temple, a striking gold-clad Buddhist monastery and a quiet, restful place. After the temple we continue to Tezu, arriving before sunset. Overnight: Hotel Shivam in Tezu. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 19. Tezu
After breakfast we visit two local Mishmi villages near Tezu. The Mishmi living in this part of Arunachal Pradesh are considered descendants of migrants from Myanmar. They are easily recognised by their short stature and traditional dress: men wear a narrow band of cloth between the legs, and women long skirts with red embroidery at the hem. The Mishmi are animists and worship the forces of nature, the sun, the moon, the mountains, the rivers and other elements. They farm and keep livestock, growing cash crops such as oranges, ginger and pineapple, and successful trade has made their community comparatively prosperous. We see how the Mishmi live from day to day and visit women weaving fine cloth on their looms. After that we travel to Parashuram Kund on the Lohit river, a place sacred to Hindus. According to legend the saint Parashurama washed away his sins here after killing his mother at his father’s command. It is a striking and inspiring natural setting. After Parashuram Kund we return to Tezu and go to the local market to try traditional dishes in an authentic restaurant and look at Mishmi crafts and textiles, then return to the hotel. Overnight: Hotel Shivam in Tezu. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 20. Tezu — Roing
After breakfast we visit the Tibetan settlement at Tezu, also called the Lama camp. The settlement was founded in the 1960s and the Tibetans there have preserved their traditions and customs. We visit the local monastery and the traditional weaving centres. We then travel to Roing, home of the Adi people. On the way we cross the Lohit river, which in Assam becomes the great Brahmaputra. We arrive in Roing in the afternoon, check into the guest house and have lunch. Then we explore the local market, where the Adi and Mishmi sell their produce; rare herbs and dried meat, considered delicacies, can be seen here. We return to the resort for the night. Overnight: Dekachang resort in Roing. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 21. Roing — Pasighat
In the morning we leave Roing for Pasighat, the oldest town in Arunachal Pradesh, in the land of the Adi people. The region is remarkable for its natural beauty and for very high rainfall in the monsoon season. The Adi are known for their traditional headdresses and for the weapons worn at the waist. We visit local villages and learn about their way of life, including the distinctive raised houses with pigs kept below the platforms and fed on household waste. If your trip coincides with a traditional festival such as Solung in September, you will see the celebrations with their dances and feasting. Overnight: Abor Country River Camp in Pasighat. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 22. Pasighat — Along
From Pasighat we travel to Along, another Adi town. This is a staging point on the way to Daporijo. On arrival we look at the fine valleys of the Mechuka area, the suspension bridges of cane and bamboo, and visit the local market. If time allows we see a mithun farm, the local bison, and the orange plantations. Overnight: Hotel Tashi in Along. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 23. Along — Daporijo
Today we continue to Daporijo, in the Upper Subansiri district of Arunachal Pradesh. This region is home to the Tagin people, one of the oldest tribes of Arunachal Pradesh. The Tagin are known for the traditional headdress and ornaments they wear, especially during their festivals. Their most important festival is Si Donyi, with worship rituals, animal sacrifices that symbolise peace within the community, and traditional dances. The Tagin are also known for their knowledge of medicinal herbs, which they use to treat illness in place of conventional medicine. We stay in a traditional Tagin house, where we learn about their life and culture, take part in preparing food and eat dinner with local people. Overnight: traditional Tagin house in Daporijo. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 24. Daporijo — Ziro valley
Today we travel from Daporijo to the Ziro valley, home of the celebrated Apatani people. The valley lies at 7000 feet above sea level, and the road to Ziro runs through fine mountain country. We reach Ziro around midday. On the way it is possible to see mithun, the large buffalo species characteristic of North East India. On arrival at Ziro we stay at the Sirro resort. After lunch we set out to see the natural shivalinga found in the Kardo area. We then visit the sacred groves of the Ziro valley and the Apatani villages. We see traditional bamboo houses and kitchens with a fire burning in the centre, where local people discuss the day’s events over dinner and rice beer. In the evening we return to the resort. Overnight: Sirro Resort in Ziro. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 25. Ziro valley
Today we explore the Apatani country: we visit the rice fields and learn about the system by which land is shared between families. We see women with traditional tattoos and nose ornaments, and visit weaving centres where fine cloth is made. After a traditional lunch in a local home we enjoy the sunset over the valley. Overnight: Sirro Resort in Ziro. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 26. Ziro valley — Majuli island
Today we travel to Majuli in Assam, the largest river island in the world. It is the centre of neo-Vaishnavism, founded by the saint Srimanta Sankardeva, and the home of the Mishing people. We cross the Brahmaputra by ferry. After lunch there is a performance of Sattriya, one of the classical dances of India, and a visit to the Uttar Kamalabari satra, or monastery. Overnight: La Maison De Ananda on Majuli island. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 27. Majuli island
Today is given to exploring the island. We visit the Auniati satra, the museum with artefacts of the Ahom kingdom, and the Samaguri satra with its distinctive mask-making art, along with the village of Salmora, where people make pottery by hand. We spend time in a Mishing village, where we have lunch of local dishes and watch rice wine being brewed. Overnight: La Maison De Ananda on Majuli island. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 28. Majuli island — Jorhat
Today we travel from Majuli to Jorhat. After the ferry crossing we visit Bornamghar Dhekiakhowa, home to the oldest continuously burning lamp in the world, and the memorial to Lachit Borphukan, the hero of the Ahom kingdom. After lunch we visit the Jorhat Gymkhana Club, one of the oldest golf clubs in the world. In the evening there is a chance to buy souvenirs at the local market. Overnight: Hotel MDs Continental in Jorhat. Meals included: breakfast and dinner.
Day 29. Jorhat airport
After breakfast, transfer to Jorhat airport for your onward flight. End of the tour.