Climbing Alpamayo

Alpamayo (5,947 m) is the true jewel of the Cordillera Blanca and the dream of any mountaineer. This mountain demands skill, endurance and mastery of various alpine techniques from those who attempt it. Climbing Alpamayo is a challenge that, once taken on, will make you feel like a true conqueror of mountains.

Before assaulting its famous ribbed southwest face, you must hike more than 25 kilometers to base camp, establish two intermediate camps and gain 1,220 meters of elevation. All of this is done with heavy backpacks full of climbing gear and over steep glacial slopes.

Alpamayo is ideal for testing your advanced mountaineering skills. It combines high‑altitude challenges, steep ice slopes and snowy routes. After summiting Alpamayo you will gain the confidence to tackle major alpine peaks around the world.

The col camp on Alpamayo is also the perfect launch point for climbing the neighboring peak, the magnificent Quitaraju (6,041 m). This route includes demanding ice and snow sections, although they are less steep than those on Alpamayo. However, its length is impressive: about 12 rope lengths from the base of the route to the summit. After conquering Alpamayo you will be well prepared to climb Quitaraju in style.

Depending on the snow and ice conditions on Alpamayo we will choose either the French Direct or the Ferrari Route. Both involve a steep climb on ice and snow and a final traverse along a sharp ridge to the summit. The ascent of Quitaraju follows the North Face via the Alpamayo col camp.

Huascarán National Park, where the Cordillera Blanca lies, was established in 1975, but the roads leading through these mountains appeared long before that. They were built by the region’s indigenous peoples even before the Inca era. Alpamayo was first climbed in 1951, and since then mountaineers from all over the world have sought to ascend its famous southwest face. For many climbers Alpamayo marks the culmination of their early mountaineering achievements. This summit has repeatedly been recognized by climbers, magazines and travelers as one of the most beautiful and challenging mountains in the world.

Day 1. Your journey begins with a landing in Peru’s capital, Lima. This city, where the noise of modern streets intertwines with the breath of history, greets you with warmth and the bright lights of the night. You are welcomed at the airport and transferred to a cozy hotel, where a soft bed and peace will give you a long-awaited rest. Here, in this oasis of calm in the middle of the metropolis, you start the path to one of the most beautiful summits in the world. In the evening the whole team gathers with the guide for a short briefing and dinner. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 2. Early in the morning we leave Lima, leaving the bustling city behind. Our route winds through twisting roads, past desert plains and higher into the mountains, where the air grows fresher and the landscapes more majestic. After eight hours of travel we arrive in Huaraz, a picturesque town nestled among snow-white peaks. We check into a hotel with breathtaking views. Here, surrounded by towering mountains, you will feel the first notes of true mountaineering spirit. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 3. This day is devoted to getting acquainted with the mountain environment and gradual acclimatization. The trail leads us to Laguna Churup, whose crystal-clear water mirrors the sky and snow-covered peaks. On the way you will feel the power of the mountain air and the primal purity of these places. Back in Huaraz, we will sort our gear, paying attention to every detail to be ready for the trials ahead. In the evening the hotel’s comfort, the soft glow of a fireplace and mountain views through the window will end the day on a lovely note. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 4. At dawn we head to the village of Cashapampa, where our trek into the mountains begins. The trail runs through valleys where brown pastures meet green thickets, while snow-white summits sparkle in the distance. The dazzling Andean sun will warm us, and by evening we reach Llamacoral camp. Here, among quiet hills and murmuring streams, we stop for the night. In a tent under the starry sky you will feel at one with nature. Overnight in tents.

Day 5. Your route continues to climb. The trail along the Lakes of Santa Cruz brings us to the base camp, located at the edge of the forest zone. The camp at 4 115 m will be our home for the next few days. In the evening, as the sun slips behind the mountain peaks, the warm light of campfires and a hot dinner create a coziness that becomes especially precious in the heart of the mountains. Overnight in tents.

Day 6. Today we set out on an acclimatization climb. Glacial fields and steep slopes form part of our route. At 4 877 m, in the moraine camp, you will leave part of the gear to lighten your load for the rest of the route. Returning to base camp will allow you to rest, enjoying the aromas of hot food and the warmth of the camp atmosphere. Overnight in tents.

Day 7. This day is devoted to recovering strength. A quiet morning, rope technique training and a leisurely lunch make the day especially tranquil. You listen to the wind, gaze at majestic peaks and enjoy the chance simply to be in the mountains. Overnight in tents.

Day 8. Today we leave the base camp to climb up to the moraine camp. With each step the glaciers draw nearer and the views grow more breathtaking. At 4 877 m solid tents, a hot dinner and the feeling that we are getting closer to the summit await us. Overnight in tents.

Day 9. This day is one of the most challenging. You cross a glacier, weaving between crevasses, and climb steep snow slopes. The camp at 5 486 m will greet us with astonishing views of the surrounding peaks. The evening spent in the silence of the mountains brings a sense of special harmony. Overnight in tents.

Day 10. The long‑awaited day has arrived. At night, under the light of headlamps, we begin the ascent. Steep icy slopes that demand all of your skill and endurance will lead the team to the summit. From 5 947 m you will see an ocean of snow‑white peaks stretching to the horizon. This moment is the culmination of our entire journey! After descending to the col camp, a hot dinner becomes a true reward for all our effort. Overnight in tents.

Day 11. After the arduous summit push, this day is devoted to rest. You relax, savor the views and feel proud of the path you have taken. Overnight in tents.

Day 12. For those ready for a new challenge, an ascent of Quitaraju is offered. The route is less steep but longer, opening up new horizons, and the view from 6 041 m inspires new achievements. If you prefer a more relaxed day, you can stay in camp and enjoy a day in the mountains, reading a book with a cup of tea. Overnight in tents.

Day 13. The return down to base camp is easier but no less scenic. The camp welcomes us with warmth, the aroma of hot food and coziness. Overnight in tents.

Day 14. We descend to the village of Cashapampa, bidding farewell to the mountains that have become our home. Back in Huaraz a hot shower, a soft bed and a festive dinner await, filled with joy and memories of conquering Alpamayo. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 15. Our journey returns to where it began. Lima will greet us with the last chords of Peruvian life, which remain in the heart. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 16. As you bid farewell to Peru, you take with you memories of glaciers, summits and breathtaking moments. This experience will stay with you forever, as a part of your soul touched by the majesty of the Andes. Transfer to the airport and flight home.

• International flight
• Visa
• Insurance covering mountaineering and helicopter evacuation
• Single accommodation
• Vaccinations
• Early check‑in / late check‑out at the hotel before/after the program (we always try to negotiate additional bonuses for our guests with our partners; often early check‑in/late check‑out is provided free of charge)
• Lunches/dinners in cities
• Excess baggage fees
• Tips
• Any deviations from the program
• Any expenses related to changes to the program

Documents:

• Passport
• Plane tickets
• Medical insurance with mountaineering coverage

Personal gear:

• Backpack (50–60 liters)
• Sleeping bag with comfort temperature from –20 °C to –10 °C
• Sleeping pad (self‑inflating or foam)
• Trekking poles with wide baskets
• Crampons (steel or aluminum, compatible with boots)
• Ice axe (classic, for self‑arrest)
• Helmet
• Climbing harness
• Personal anchor system with carabiners (preferably automatic or screw‑lock)
• Carabiners (at least 4, including two locking)
• Accessory cord (6–7 mm diameter, 2–3 m length for making a Prusik knot)
• Jumar (ascender)
• Descending device (e.g., a figure‑eight or similar)
• Cup, spoon, bowl

Clothing and footwear:

• Double or triple mountaineering boots
• Trekking footwear (boots or trail shoes)
• Waterproof jacket and pants (membrane rating at least 5000/5000, preferably Gore‑Tex)
• Fleece jacket and pants
• Thermal underwear, top and bottom
• Down jacket with hood, thick and warm
• Warm mittens
• Thick gloves
• Thin gloves for working
• Bandana or buff
• Warm hat
• Trekking socks (several pairs, including warm ones for the ascent)

Miscellaneous:

• Headlamp with at least 12 hours of burn time plus spare batteries
• Sunglasses (category 3–4)
• Ski goggles (for wind protection)
• Thermos (1 liter, preferably with a secure lid)
• Windproof mask or scarf
• Gaiters for snow protection
• Sunscreen (SPF 50+)
• Lip balm
• Personal first aid kit (including altitude medication, bandages, analgesics)
• Elastic bandage and/or support brace
• Chemical hand/foot warmers (optional)

Equipment rental prices on Alpamayo (2024):

Waterproof jacket — $70

Trekking poles — $30

Mountaineering boots (double) — $120

Backpack 50–70 L — $50

Down jacket — $100

Sleeping bag (–20 °C) — $80

Sleeping bag (–30 °C) — $130

Crampons — $50

Ice axe — $50

Helmet — $40

Harness — $40

Locking carabiners — $10 each

Personal anchor system — $20

Jumar — $35

Descending device — $30

Gaiters — $25

High‑altitude tent (2–3 people) — $150

Kitchen set — $30