The altitude of a base camp is an important parameter in planning a climb of any of the 14 eight-thousanders. It sets the conditions in which climbers begin their ascent and shapes the process of acclimatisation. Climbers move upwards from base camp, and its height is often the first barrier on the way to the summit, so understanding how that altitude affects a climb is critically important.
1. Everest (8848 m)
- The southern Everest base camp (Nepal): stands at 5364m. The height here is dictated by ease of access and lets climbers get used to high-mountain conditions gradually.
- Everest north base camp (Tibet): stands at 5150m. This camp is lower, which makes acclimatisation slightly easier, although the route is more technical.
On Everest the altitude of base camp plays an enormous part in preparation, since both sides of the mountain, for all the difference between the routes, demand thorough adaptation to thin air. The height of base camp also makes it a convenient place to stay while the next stages of the route are being prepared. The trek to Everest Base Camp is the most popular in Nepal, and it has a good helicopter service.
2. K2 (Chogori, 8611m)
- K2 base camp (Pakistan): the base camp on K2 stands at roughly 5100m. The height gives a convenient start for anyone heading up K2, but the difficult weather of the Karakoram demands particular preparation.
On K2 the altitude of base camp matters not only for acclimatisation but for giving climbers the conditions they need before they start on the hard ground above. That altitude has a direct bearing on what is possible on the climb, which makes the camp a key element of the preparation.
3. Kangchenjunga (8586m)
- Kangchenjunga north-west base camp (Nepal): the base camp stands at about 5180m. It lies in the Taplejung area. This camp is normally used to approach the north-western routes and, like the southern base camp, requires a trek of several days. The trek starts at Suketar. The north-west route is regarded as one of the hardest ways up Kangchenjunga.
- The southern Kangchenjunga base camp (Nepal): stands at 5140m, a moderate height for acclimatisation before the climb proper. It allows the route to be started on the south side and gives a gradual adaptation to mountain conditions.
On Kangchenjunga the height of base camp provides the basic conditions for anyone preparing to go higher. Its effect on the climb is particularly noticeable during seasonal changes in the weather.
4. Lhotse (8516m)
- Lhotse base camp (Nepal): the base camp coincides with Everest’s and stands at 5364m. The altitude is ideal for acclimatising for Lhotse and Everest at the same time, since both routes start from the same place.
Lhotse’s base camp altitude is convenient and lets the routes be combined with Everest. It gives a smoother acclimatisation and sets up a successful start to the climb.
5. Makalu (8485m)
- Makalu base camp (Nepal): stands at 4800m. That is lower than on the other eight-thousanders, which makes acclimatisation more manageable. It gives suitable conditions for the start of the climb, and at that height climbers can prepare for the extreme conditions higher up.
6. Cho Oyu (8201m)
- Cho Oyu base camp (Tibet): stands at 5700m, one of the highest base camps there is. It calls for a well-prepared approach to acclimatisation, since the start is a long way above the lower ground.
Cho Oyu’s base camp altitude makes it an acclimatisation camp for climbers on neighbouring peaks and helps shape the early stages of a route.
7. Dhaulagiri (8167m)
- Dhaulagiri base camp (Nepal): stands at 4750 m. The height lets the journey begin at a more manageable altitude, which makes this camp a more convenient one for gradual acclimatisation.
The altitude here is ideal for beginner climbers and helps create the right conditions for the next stages of the climb. It also gives a strategic position for moving further up.
8. Manaslu (8163 m)
- Manaslu base camp (Nepal): stands at 4800 m, an average height for an eight-thousander. It allows a gradual acclimatisation before the climb.
9. Nanga Parbat (8126 m)
- Nanga Parbat base camp (Pakistan): the base camp stands at about 4200 m on the Rupal route and 3900 m on the Diamir route. Probably the most impressive views of an eight-thousander anywhere in the world are the ones from here, since Nanga has the largest walls in the world.
10. Annapurna I (8091 m)
- Annapurna base camp (Nepal): the base camp stands at about 4130 m. It is lower than on most of the eight-thousanders, which helps climbers through the first stage of acclimatisation more gently.
Annapurna’s base camp gives a good starting point for a climb of this dangerous mountain. For all the relatively low altitude of the camp, the route on Annapurna is known for its technical difficulty and its frequent avalanches.
11. Gasherbrum I (8080 m)
- Gasherbrum I base camp (Pakistan): stands at about 5000 m. The height lets climbers acclimatise reasonably well before starting a difficult ascent.
On Gasherbrum I the altitude of base camp is essential both for preparing climbers for the height and for keeping them somewhere workable in the severe weather of the Karakoram.
12. Broad Peak (8047 m)
- Broad Peak base camp (Pakistan): stands at approximately 4900 m. The height lets climbers adapt to altitude gradually before setting off on the mountain’s hard, technically demanding routes.
Broad Peak’s base camp altitude makes for conditions in which climbers can acclimatise and prepare for the climb in comfort. The camp also serves as a starting point for other neighbouring eight-thousanders.
13. Gasherbrum II (8035 m)
- Gasherbrum II base camp (Pakistan): stands at about 5000 m. It is similar to Gasherbrum I and sits at a height that is ideal for acclimatisation.
On Gasherbrum II the base camp altitude helps climbers adapt to the severe conditions of the Karakoram. It also makes for stable conditions in which to stay and plan the route.
14. Shishapangma (8027 m)
- Shishapangma base camp (Tibet): stands at about 5000 m. The height allows acclimatisation to begin at a substantial altitude.
Shishapangma’s base camp altitude allows a smooth adaptation to height, letting climbers build endurance before going higher.
So the altitude of base camp on each of these mountains is a key factor in planning a climb. It sets the conditions for a safe and effective start to an expedition, affecting climbers‘ health and their capacity to acclimatise.
Acclimatisation matters no less — and perhaps more — on mountains below 8000. Peaks over 7000 metres are a serious undertaking, and each has its own particular character, base camp altitudes included. The height of base camp gives climbers the acclimatisation they need before starting on the high ground. Here is the information on base camps on popular summits between 7000 and 8000 metres:
1. Lenin Peak (7134 m)
- Lenin Peak base camp (Kyrgyzstan/Tajikistan): the base camp on Lenin Peak stands at about 3600 m on the Kyrgyz side (the camp in the Achik-Tash valley).
- Lenin Peak advanced base camp (Camp 1): 4400 m. This is already on the climbing route, and its height helps climbers acclimatise more effectively before going for the summit.
The altitude of the base camp in the Achik-Tash valley lets climbers get used to high-mountain conditions, and the place is a popular starting point for Lenin Peak.
2. Khan Tengri (7010 m)
- Khan Tengri north base camp (Kazakhstan): the base camp stands at about 4000 m (the South Inylchek glacier).
- Khan Tengri south base camp (Kyrgyzstan): the base camp stands at about 4000 m, also on the South Inylchek glacier, but on the other side of the mountain.
The base camp altitude on both sides allows acclimatisation to begin at a similar height. The camp lets climbers get used to the altitude steadily before starting the technical climb of Khan Tengri.
3. Peak Communism (7495 m)
- Peak Communism base camp (Tajikistan): the base camp stands at about 4300 m (the Moskvina camp). It lies on a glacier and is the starting point for every route to the summit.
The base camp altitude on Peak Communism makes it possible to begin acclimatising at a height suited to climbs of hard, high summits, and it is also a convenient place to prepare for an ascent of the neighbouring seven-thousanders.
4. Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105 m)
- Korzhenevskaya Peak base camp (Tajikistan): the base camp stands at about 4200 m. It is on the same Moskvina glacier as the base camp for Peak Communism, and allows acclimatisation for both climbs.
The base camp altitude on Korzhenevskaya Peak is ideal for acclimatisation before the climb, since it lets you get used to the height in the early part of the route.
5. Pobeda Peak (7439 m)
- Pobeda Peak base camp (Kyrgyzstan): the base camp stands at about 3900 m (the South Inylchek glacier). Climbers pitch their tented camps on the Inylchek glacier for the start of the route on Pobeda Peak and for acclimatisation.
The base camp altitude on Pobeda Peak is relatively low for so high and difficult a summit, which makes acclimatisation gradual but increases the risk that comes with a long route at altitude.
6. Muztagh Ata (7546 m)
- Muztagh Ata base camp (China): the base camp stands at about 4450 m. It is a convenient starting point for anyone planning a climb of Muztagh Ata, and allows acclimatisation before going up.
The base camp altitude on Muztagh Ata puts the summit within reach of amateur mountaineers and ski tourers, since acclimatisation at this height is comparatively gentle.
7. Aconcagua (6961 m)
- Plaza de Mulas, the classic Aconcagua base camp (Argentina): the base camp stands at 4300 m. It is the main point on the northern route and the most popular for climbs of Aconcagua.
- Plaza Argentina, the Aconcagua base camp for the Polish Traverse route (Argentina): the base camp stands at about 4200 m. This camp is used for climbs by the less popular eastern route.
The base camp altitude on Aconcagua lets climbers work through their acclimatisation comfortably before climbing the highest mountain in South America.
Elbrus, the highest mountain in Europe (5642 m), is a popular objective for climbers both experienced and new to the sport. Elbrus has several routes, the main ones being the southern and the northern, each with its own base camp arrangements.
The Elbrus base camp on the south side
- Height of the Elbrus base camp on the south side: about 3720 m (the Barrels) or 4050 (Priyut 11). Most climbers now stay at “Novy Garabashi”, 3888m.
- Location: Kabardino-Balkaria, the village of Terskol
- Access: Easily reached by the cable car, which lifts climbers to about 3850m, from where you can walk up to the camp.
- Facilities: The southern base camp is one of the best equipped. There is accommodation in the module huts, cafés, equipment hire and a rescue service.
The southern route is regarded as the most popular and the least technical, since the climb to the base is done with the cable car and snowcats. That gets you to the base more quickly and makes it easier to bring equipment up. Acclimatisation happens faster here, which makes the southern route attractive to beginners.
The Elbrus base camp on the north side
- Height of the Elbrus base camp on the north side: about 2500 m (the camp in the Dzhily-Su area)
- Location: Kabardino-Balkaria, the village of Kyandy (or Dzhily-Su)
- Access: Reached by off-road vehicle; the way to base camp runs along mountain roads, and there is no cable car as there is on the southern route.
- Facilities: The northern base camp is less well equipped than the southern one. The tented camp sits in a fine valley, with mineral springs and natural thermal baths.
The northern route is regarded as wilder and harder, since it requires complete self-sufficiency and good physical condition. The journey from the northern base camp to the next camp at about 3800 m takes longer and requires more acclimatisation.
The base camps of popular high mountains such as Kazbek, Ararat, Damavand, Chimborazo and Cotopaxi are important starting points for climbs, giving climbers a place to acclimatise and prepare. Each of these mountains has its own conditions and its own kind of base camp.
Kazbek base camp (5033 m)
- Height of the Kazbek base camp on the south side: about 3650 m
- Location: Georgia, near the village of Stepantsminda
- Facilities: The base camp on Kazbek is often called “the Meteostation” or “Betlemi Hut”. It is a stone building that serves as a shelter for climbers. There is space to sleep and to cook, and water can be collected from a nearby spring.
There is no northern base camp on Kazbek, since a climb from the north (from Russia) is done as a linear route, with the camp moving each day.
The Kazbek base camp stands at a height that lets climbers acclimatise effectively before going on up to the summit. The approach usually runs through the fine valley of the Chkheri river and across glaciers, which adds both beauty and difficulty to the route.
Ararat base camp (5137 m)
- Height of the Ararat base camp: about 3200 m
- Location: Turkey, near the town of Dogubayazit
- Facilities: The base camp on Ararat is a tented camp, usually set up on level ground with a water source nearby. Many expeditions use guides and donkeys to carry equipment up to the camp.
The Ararat base camp provides the acclimatisation needed before going above 5000 metres. Climbers spend a night here before moving on to the next camp at about 4200 m, from which the climb to the summit begins.
Damavand base camp (5610 m)
- Height of the Damavand base camp: about 4250 m (the Bargah-e Sevom camp)
- Location: Iran, near the town of Polur
- Facilities: Bargah-e Sevom is a hut offering the basics: a few places to sleep, a kitchen and a water source. There is also room to pitch tents beside the hut.
The Damavand base camp is the key acclimatisation point before the final climb to 5610 m. Climbers come up the day before the ascent and spend the night to get better used to the height.
Chimborazo base camp (6263 m)
- Height of the Chimborazo base camp: about 4800 m (the Refugio Carrel)
- Location: Ecuador, near the town of Riobamba
- Facilities: The Refugio Carrel is a hut offering places to sleep, a basic kitchen and water. It is well set up for preparing for a climb and is only an hour’s walk from the next hut at 5000 m, the Refugio Whymper.
The base camp on Chimborazo stands at a height that provides acclimatisation before the climb of Ecuador’s highest volcano. Its position allows a comfortable starting point for the ascent to be set up.
Cotopaxi base camp (5897 m)
- Height of the Cotopaxi base camp: about 4800 m (the Refugio Jose Rivas)
- Location: Ecuador, within Cotopaxi National Park
- Facilities: The Refugio Jose Rivas is a popular hut with a kitchen, places to sleep and drinking water. It is conveniently placed on the northern climbing route and lets climbers prepare comfortably for the last stage of the ascent.
The base camp on Cotopaxi is the starting point for the night climb of the summit, with climbers setting off nearer midnight in order to reach the top at dawn.
You can set these base camp altitudes against real programmes and acclimatisation schedules in the overview of Mountain Guide’s tours in Nepal. The main article on the subject.