Climb Elbrus from the South with Oxygen

This is an exclusive version of the south route ascent of Elbrus with oxygen, for participants who want to climb the highest summit in Europe within a limited amount of time and in a high-comfort format, using supplemental oxygen.

The defining feature of the programme is the use of supplemental oxygen during the high-altitude part of the route. It helps reduce the effect of thin air on the body and makes the ascent of Elbrus more comfortable for participants who cannot spend a long time in the mountains or who want to reduce the effect of altitude during the main climb.

It is important to understand that climbing Elbrus with oxygen is not a substitute for acclimatisation and preparation. The height of the summit, 5642 m, remains the main factor of difficulty in the programme, and every person’s reaction to altitude is individual. Supplemental oxygen is a tool that helps you carry the altitude more easily, but it does not remove the requirements for physical condition, a correct pace and the work of experienced guides.

The programme is built to use participants’ time as efficiently as possible. The preparation, the briefing on using the oxygen equipment, the mountain accommodation and the departure onto the route are all organised around the specifics of a fast ascent of Elbrus by the classic southern route.

Despite the compressed schedule, participants make a full ascent of the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, by the classic route from the south. The lead guide decides whether the group can set out, whether it can continue and whether the summit can be reached, taking account of the condition of the group, the weather forecast, the state of the route and the actual conditions on the mountain.

Climbing Elbrus with oxygen suits those who want to achieve the goal of reaching the highest summit in Europe but cannot commit to a long acclimatisation programme. It is also an option for participants who want a more comfortable ascent and less exposure to altitude during the most demanding stage of the route.

Day 1. Arrival in the Elbrus region and preparation for the ascent.

Important: the oxygen programme is an exception to the arrival rules that apply to the standard south route programmes. You must choose a flight scheduled to land at Mineralnye Vody airport before 10:00. The group meets at the airport and travels straight to the Elbrus region.

On the day of arrival participants have to complete the drive to the Elbrus region and ride the cable car up to the high-mountain shelter, because the ascent of Elbrus begins during the night between the first and the second day. With a later arrival participants may miss the cable car and be unable to complete the programme as planned. When buying tickets, be sure to allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal.

On arrival participants collect the necessary equipment from the hire shop, check their kit and prepare to go onto the route. The group then rides the cable car up the southern slope of Elbrus to the high-mountain shelter.

In September the cable car may be closed for scheduled maintenance. If the cable car cannot be used, the guide decides the onward logistics according to the actual situation; a vehicle is hired for the ascent if necessary. If the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket, participants pay the difference.

At the shelter the guides give a detailed safety briefing, explain the specifics of climbing Elbrus with oxygen, go through how the oxygen equipment is used and check that participants are ready for the high-altitude push. Where necessary there is a short session on moving in crampons and working with mountaineering equipment.

After the preparation participants rest before the main departure. Overnight in the high-mountain shelter.

Day 2. Ascent of the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m.

The main day of the programme is the ascent of Elbrus with oxygen by the classic southern route to the West summit, 5642 m. The programme is intended for participants who want to make a high-altitude ascent within limited time and to use supplemental oxygen during the most demanding stage of the route.

The departure begins at night, usually between 02:00 and 04:00, depending on the weather, the state of the route and the lead guide’s decision.

Supplemental oxygen is used during the high-altitude part of the ascent and helps reduce the effect of thin air on the body, but it does not replace physical preparation, correct tactics or the supervision of experienced guides.

Where necessary, and by agreement with the group, a snowcat may be used on individual sections of the route. The lead guide decides whether it is used, taking account of the condition of the participants, the weather and the actual conditions on the mountain.

The ascent is led by experienced Mountain Guide guides and follows the safety requirements. After the summit the group descends the southern slope of Elbrus and returns to the valley.

This completes the programme for climbing Elbrus with oxygen.

• Accommodation in the shelter for the number of nights set out in the programme
• All transfers within the programme
• The cable car
• Snowcat or snowmobile, ascent and descent
• Meals as set out in the programme: lunch and dinner on the first day, breakfast and a packed lunch on the second day
• One summit attempt
• One set of oxygen equipment
• Guides, at a strict ratio of one guide to three clients for the ascent
• Group equipment: rope, ice screws, radio, satellite navigator and other necessary items
• Personal equipment: oxygen equipment, double boots (Lowa, Boreal or La Sportiva), membrane jacket and trousers, down shorts or trousers, headtorch, flask, sunglasses, ski goggles, crampons, heavy down jacket, double mittens, gaiters, sleeping bag, ice axe, trekking poles, harness with lanyards and carabiners, medium rucksack
• Hire of a duffel bag for rented and personal equipment for the duration of the ascent
• Certificate of a successful ascent

• Single occupancy
• Other personal equipment
• National park permit, where applicable
• Guides and cooks if the programme changes
• Any costs connected with changes to the programme
• Additional summit attempts and additional oxygen sets beyond those included
• The supplement for an alternative ascent by vehicle if the cable car is closed for maintenance in September and the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket

Rock-and-Rentのレンタルには、必要なものがすべて揃っており、品質も非常に高水準です。事前にすべて予約していただければ、短パンのまま到着しても問題ありません（特に事前予約がおすすめです）。

私たちは装備選定において、ただ一つの基準だけを重視してきました。それは、2001年から案内しているエルブルスの環境条件に最大限適合していることです。

そして、このリストは非常に慎重に作成されています。会社のガイドたちはこれまでに合計で数千回の登頂を行ってきましたが、この中に不要なものが一つもあるとは考えていません。

書類：

• パスポート
• 航空券／鉄道チケット
• 医療保険
• バウチャー（外国籍の方）

個人装備：

• バックパック 30〜40リットル
• ダッフルバッグ 80〜100リットル
• 寝袋：快適使用温度 0℃〜＋10℃（6月〜9月を含む）、−20℃〜−10℃（10月〜5月を含む）
• トレッキングポール（直径70mm以上のバスケット付き必須）
• アイゼン
• クラシックタイプのピッケル（5〜6mmの補助ロープ付き、ハーネス連結用、長さ2〜3m）
• クライミングハーネス
• ヘルメット
• カラビナ 3個（大きめ推奨。ミトン着用時に操作しやすい）
• セルフビレイ用ランヤード

衣類・靴：

• スキーウェアはエルブルスに適していますか？
• 登山靴（二重または三重構造）― プラスチック製または革製。シングルブーツはオーバーブーツ使用時のみ可（ゲイターとは別物）
• 防水レイヤー ― ジャケット＋パンツ。防水透湿性能は10,000／10,000以上推奨
• フリース上下
• 保温インナー（上・下）
• フード付きダウンジャケット（厚手で保温性の高いもの。エルブルス用として適切なダウンは通常700g以上）
• 防寒ミトン
• 厚手グローブ（スキー用）
• 薄手グローブ（フリース）
• バンダナ（谷では日除け、防寒時は首や顔の保温に使用可能）
• ニット帽
• 登頂日に使用する暖かいトレッキングソックス

その他：

• ヘッドランプ（連続点灯時間12時間以上）
• サングラス（保護カテゴリー3〜4、側面からの光も完全に遮断するもの）
• スキーゴーグル（保護カテゴリー1〜2、悪天候用）
• 保温ボトル 1リットル（フタにボタンがないもの推奨）
• 防風フェイスマスク（スカーフで代用可能な場合もあり）
• 日焼け止め（有名ブランド、SPF30〜50。実際には30と50の差はほとんどありません）
• リップクリーム SPF15
• 個人用救急キット
• 伸縮包帯および／またはサポーター
• ゲイター（必須ではないが、特に5〜6月は役立つ場合あり）
• 使い捨てカイロ（必須ではないが、非常に役立つことがあります）