Climb Elbrus from the South, 7 Days

The southern route of Elbrus combines a high-altitude ascent with the developed infrastructure of the Elbrus region. The first part of the programme takes place in the valley of the Baksan river, with hotel accommodation. The cable car then takes the group to the Gara-Bashi station, from where participants walk to the high-mountain shelter at 3888 m. Tents and the carrying of heavy expedition loads are not required, so effort can be concentrated on acclimatisation and on preparing for the summit.

Acclimatisation begins at about 2000 m and continues during the trek to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall and the observatory at 3100 m. After the move up to the shelter the group makes an acclimatisation hike to the Pastukhov Rocks at 4600 m. This sequence lets participants get to know high-mountain conditions, assess how they feel and prepare the body for the ascent of the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m.

The main summit attempt is planned for the fifth day. The sixth day is held in reserve and can be used if the summit push has to be postponed because of the weather or the condition of the group. The seven-day programme therefore contains acclimatisation, preparation, a summit attempt and a reserve day, despite its tighter schedule.

The southern side of Elbrus has the most developed infrastructure on the mountain, but that does not make the ascent easy. The main difficulties come from sustained physical effort at high altitude, from cold, from wind and from sharp changes in the weather. Before the ascent the guides run sessions on using snow and ice equipment, on moving along fixed ropes and on self-arrest on a snow slope. The practical part of those sessions depends on the state of the snow cover.

Altitude affects each person individually. Good physical condition helps you hold a pace and cope with the effort, but it does not determine how quickly the body adapts to the lack of oxygen. In a seven-day programme it is especially important to watch how you feel and to follow the guides’ decisions.

On summit day the departure time, the pace and whether the route can continue are decided according to the weather, the state of the slope and how participants feel. Where it is available, a snowcat can be used for the ascent and/or the descent to reduce the amount of walking. The snowcat is paid for separately and is not compulsory. Using it does not replace acclimatisation and does not guarantee that the summit will be reached.

The seven-day programme requires good general endurance and readiness for long periods of work at altitude. Physical preparation should begin well in advance.

Day 1. Meeting at Mineralnye Vody airport.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the programme: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. The drive to the village of Terskol takes about three hours. The hotel stands in the valley of the Baksan river at the foot of Elbrus, at 2000 m. After the journey participants have dinner first, then meet the group and the guide and go through the briefing and safety instructions. Overnight at the hotel. Transfer distance 190 km.

Day 2. Acclimatisation trek in the Elbrus region.

In the morning we set out for the Devichyi Kosy waterfall at 2700 m and then continue up to the observatory at 3100 m. This first acclimatisation hike helps the body begin to adapt to altitude and lets participants judge how they feel before going up onto Elbrus. We recommend taking a small snack, because the return and lunch can be late. After the trek we select and fit the personal equipment for the ascent. Overnight at the hotel. Ascent 1200 m. Distance 13 km.

Day 3. Move up to the high-mountain shelter and acclimatisation at the Pastukhov Rocks.

After the final packing at the hotel we drive 4 km to the Azau meadow. The cable car, with two changes, takes the group and its equipment to the Gara-Bashi station, from where participants walk to the high-mountain shelter at 3888 m.

In September the cable car may be closed for scheduled maintenance. If the cable car cannot be used, the guide decides the onward logistics according to the actual situation; a vehicle is hired for the ascent if necessary. If the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket, participants pay the difference. After settling in and a light lunch or snack we make an acclimatisation hike to the Pastukhov Rocks at 4600 m. There is no point in going higher on this day: the additional effort can impair recovery and make the first night at the shelter harder. Overnight at the shelter. Ascent 712 m. Distance 6 km.

Day 4. Rest and preparation for the ascent of Elbrus.

The day is given to recovery and to preparing for the summit push. We hold sessions on self-arrest on a snow slope, on using snow and ice equipment and on moving along fixed ropes. If there is no suitable snow slope, which is possible in late summer, the practical self-arrest session is replaced by theory. After the sessions it is important to rest, to walk a little near the shelter and to save energy for the ascent. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 5. Ascent of the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m.

The summit push begins between 02:00 and 04:00, at the lead guide’s decision. The exact time depends on the weather, the state of the route and how the group feels. A snowcat may be used for the ascent and/or the descent. The decision about using it on the way up is taken in advance, and about the way down on the route itself, during the return. The snowcat is not compulsory and does not replace acclimatisation. There are no more than three climbers to one guide. After the route is complete the group returns to the high-mountain shelter. Overnight at the shelter. If the whole route is walked, the ascent is 1754 m. Distance 14 km.

Day 6. Reserve day and return to the hotel.

The reserve day is used if the summit attempt has to be postponed because of the weather or the condition of the group. If the summit was reached on day 5, we descend by cable car in the morning and return to the hotel. If the ascent is moved to day 6, we make the summit attempt and then descend to the valley. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 7. Departure to the airport.

The group transfer to Mineralnye Vody airport leaves at 07:00 — please take this into account when choosing your return flight. If your flight is in the evening, you can leave your luggage in the airport left-luggage office and travel independently by taxi to Pyatigorsk. In the town you can visit the site of Mikhail Lermontov’s duel, the Proval cave and the viewpoint, which in clear weather looks out over Pyatigorsk and Elbrus.

• Professional guides. A lead guide accompanies the group throughout the programme, and assistant guides join for summit day. There are no more than three climbers to one guide: a group of four participants is accompanied by two guides, and a group of seven by three
• The number of group attempts is not subject to a separate limit within the days provided by the programme. If the whole group did not start, or had to turn back because of the weather, we cover the cost of a repeat departure. If part of the group reaches the summit, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts for the remaining participants are paid separately
• The services of a professional cook and three meals a day as set out in the programme, from dinner on the day of arrival to breakfast on the day of departure
• Hotel accommodation in twin rooms for all nights set out in the programme
• Accommodation in the high-mountain shelter on Elbrus in four-bed rooms for all nights set out in the programme
• All transfers within the programme from Mineralnye Vody airport or railway station and back
• Cable car tickets on the Azau – Gara-Bashi – Azau line
• Group mountaineering and emergency equipment — satellite navigators and first aid kits carried by the guides, radios, ropes, ice screws, emergency blankets and other necessary group items
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• The snowcat on summit day. Where it is used, the ascent and/or descent is paid by the participant on the spot; using the snowcat is not compulsory. The snowcat is charged by the operator at the current season tariff and is paid separately on the spot. We request this from our partners in advance and it is sometimes provided at no extra charge, but it cannot be guaranteed
• Personal equipment for the participant’s own use
• Deviations from the programme and the additional costs associated with them, other than the services listed explicitly under what is included
• Medical insurance
• Tips
• The supplement for an alternative ascent by vehicle if the cable car is closed for maintenance in September and the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket

Rock-and-Rent のレンタルには、本当にすべてが揃っています。しかも高品質な装備ばかりです。事前にすべて予約しておけば、極端な話、短パンのまま到着しても問題ありません。

私たちは装備を選定する際、ただ一つの基準だけを重視しました。それは、2001年からご案内しているエルブルスの環境に最大限適していることです。

そして正直に言いますと、このリストは非常に慎重に作成しました。会社のガイドたちは累計で数千回の登頂経験があり、この中に不要なものが一つでもあるとは考えていません。

書類：

• パスポート
• 航空券／鉄道チケット
• 医療保険
• バウチャー（外国籍の方）

個人装備：

• バックパック 30～40リットル
• バウルバッグ 80～100リットル
• スリーピングバッグ：快適温度 0℃～＋10℃（6月～9月を含む）、－20℃～－10℃（10月～5月を含む）
• トレッキングポール（必ず直径70mm以上のバスケット付き）
• アイゼン
• クラシックタイプのピッケル（ハーネスに固定するための 5～6mm レプシュヌール付き、長さ 2～3m）
• アルパインハーネス
• ヘルメット
• カラビナ 3 個（できれば大きめのもの。厚手の手袋での操作が格段に楽です）
• セルフビレイ用ランヤード

衣類・靴：

• エルブルスではスキーウェアは使えるのか？
• アルパインブーツ（二重または三重構造）― プラスチック製または革製
• 　※ 一層構造の場合はオーバーブーツ使用が条件（ゲイターとは別物）
• トレッキングシューズまたはトレッキング用スニーカー
• 　※ 5月～6月初旬の最初の順応登山では雪が残っている場合があり、その場合はブーツが圧倒的に有利です。ただし6月中旬以降～9月末まではスニーカーでも可能です（ただし捻挫のリスクあり）。防水性が維持されていることを必ず確認してください
• 防水レイヤー（ジャケット＋パンツ）：推奨耐水圧 10,000 / 10,000 以上
• フリース上下
• 保温インナー（上・下）
• フード付きダウンジャケット（厚手で保温性が高いもの。エルブルス用として適正なダウンは通常 700g 以上）
• 防寒ミトン
• 厚手グローブ（スキー用）
• 薄手グローブ（フリース）
• バンダナ（谷では日除けとして、寒冷時には首や顔の防寒にも使用可能）
• ニット帽
• 登頂日のための厚手トレッキングソックス
• 日除け用ヘッドウェア
• トレッキングパンツ・Tシャツ（できれば長袖）
• トレッキング用ソックス（トレッキング日数分が望ましい）

その他：

• ヘッドランプ（連続点灯時間 12 時間以上）
• サングラス（遮光カテゴリー 3～4、側面からの光を完全に遮るもの）
• スキーゴーグル（遮光カテゴリー 1～2、悪天候用）
• 保温ボトル 1 リットル（キャップにボタンが付いていないものが望ましい）
• フェイスマスク（風よけ用。スカーフで代用できる場合もあり）
• 日焼け止め（信頼できるブランド、SPF 30～50 ※実際には30と50の差はほとんどありません）
• リップクリーム SPF-15
• 個人用救急セット
• 弾性包帯および／またはサポーター
• ゲイター（必須ではありませんが、特に5月～6月は役立つことがあります）
• 化学カイロ（必須ではありませんが、非常に役立つ場合があります）