Elbrus Traverse from South to North, 9 Days

The traverse of Elbrus from south to north is a route that begins and ends on different sides of the mountain. Participants climb the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, by the classic southern route, then return to the saddle and continue down the northern slope.

This format lets you see two different Elbruses in a single programme. The southern side is defined by cable cars, high-mountain shelters and the developed infrastructure of the Elbrus region. The northern side is considerably more self-supported: there is no cable car and no resort infrastructure, and the route finishes in a more solitary mountain setting.

The acclimatisation part of the traverse takes place in the south. The group gains altitude gradually on treks in the valley, then moves up to the high-mountain shelter and makes hikes on the slope of Elbrus. That sequence follows the logic of the classic ascent of Elbrus from the south, but after the summit participants do not return the same way.

The main difference shows on summit day. After climbing from the south to the West summit the group descends to the saddle and comes out onto the northern side of Elbrus. From there the route continues across the glacier in roped parties under the guides’ direction. It finishes on the northern slope, where a separate ground logistics chain begins.

The traverse requires readiness for a longer summit day than a standard ascent returning to the southern shelter. After the summit participants face a long descent by the northern route, so endurance, conserving strength and following the guides’ instructions exactly all matter especially.

On the northern part of the route there is no cable car available for a quick descent. Participants continue on foot using crampons, ice axes, harnesses and other necessary equipment. The guides organise roped travel and control the pace of the group on the glacier.

Where necessary, the southern part of the climb on summit day can be shortened by snowcat to about 5100 m. That reduces the effort before the summit and the northern descent, but it does not replace acclimatisation and does not make the traverse easy. The snowcat is paid for separately and the decision on whether it can be used is taken in advance.

Weather is decisive for completing the traverse. A safe descent to the north requires adequate visibility, acceptable wind and enough time in hand. The final decision on setting out, on continuing over the summit and on descending the northern slope is taken by the lead guide, on the basis of the actual conditions and the state of the participants.

Altitude affects each person individually. Good physical condition helps you carry a long effort, but it does not guarantee quick adaptation to the lack of oxygen.

Physical preparation for the traverse has to begin well in advance. The main focus should be general endurance, long days of walking and the ability to hold a working pace after many hours of movement.

The season for the programme is chosen according to the state of the glaciers and the weather conditions on both sides of the mountain.

Participants who prefer a gradual altitude gain and a self-supported atmosphere from the first days of the programme should compare the traverse with the classic ascent of Elbrus from the north.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to the Elbrus region.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the programme: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. We drive about 200 km to the hotel at the foot of Elbrus; the journey takes around three hours. After checking in we have dinner, meet the group and hold a briefing on the south to north traverse programme, acclimatisation, equipment and the safety rules. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 2. Acclimatisation hike on the slope of Cheget, 3000 m.

After breakfast we make the first acclimatisation hike of the programme, climbing the slope of Cheget to about 3000 m. A gradual altitude gain helps the body begin adapting to the lack of oxygen and lets the guide assess the pace and condition of the participants. The route looks out onto the southern slope of Elbrus, along which the climb to the summit will run. After reaching the planned altitude we descend on foot into the valley and return to the hotel. Overnight at the hotel. Ascent 1100 m. Distance 11 km.

Day 3. Acclimatisation trek to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall and the observatory, 3100 m.

We continue the preparation with a trek to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall at about 2700 m. After a short rest we climb on to the observatory at 3100 m. A second consecutive hike allows more time at altitude, a check of clothing and trekking equipment and preparation for the move up to the shelter. After the route we descend to the hotel to rest and recover. Overnight at the hotel. Ascent 1200 m. Distance 13 km.

Day 4. Move up to the high-mountain shelter and acclimatisation hike to 4200 m.

After breakfast we ride the cable car up to the high-mountain shelter at 3888 m.

In September the cable car may be closed for scheduled maintenance. If the cable car cannot be used, the guide decides the onward logistics according to the actual situation; a vehicle is hired for the ascent if necessary. If the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket, participants pay the difference. We settle in, rest and after a light lunch make a short acclimatisation hike up to 4200 m. The main aim of the day is to begin adapting to sleeping at altitude and to judge how everyone feels after coming up from the valley. In the evening we return to the shelter. Overnight at the shelter. Ascent 312 m. Distance 2 km.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Pastukhov Rocks, 4700 m.

We climb to the Pastukhov Rocks at about 4700 m. This is the highest acclimatisation hike before the traverse of Elbrus. We move at a calm pace, watch how everyone feels and spend several hours well above the shelter. The guides assess whether participants are ready for a long summit day and adjust the tactics if necessary. After reaching the planned altitude we descend to rest and recover. Overnight at the shelter. Ascent 812 m. Distance 6 km.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the traverse of Elbrus.

The day is given to recovering strength before the main day of the programme. We check personal and group equipment and prepare clothing, boots and rucksacks. The guides give the final briefing on the order of movement, communication within the group, the summit itself and the descent of the northern glacier. The final plan is made according to the forecast, the state of the route and how participants feel. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 7. Ascent of the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, and descent to the north.

We set out early in the morning, usually between 02:00 and 04:00. The exact time is decided by the lead guide according to the weather, the state of the slope and the readiness of the group. We climb the classic southern route to the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m.

In suitable conditions part of the southern climb can be shortened by snowcat to about 5100 m. Whether it can be used, and to what altitude, depends on the state of the slope. The snowcat is paid for separately and the decision to use it is taken in advance.

After the summit we return to the saddle and begin the descent of the northern slope. The group moves across the glacier in roped parties under the guides’ control. On this part of the route there is no cable car and no way of shortening the descent with machinery, so conserving strength, discipline and following instructions exactly matter especially. On summit day the ratio is one guide to three participants. Overnight in the shelter on the northern slope.

Day 8. Reserve day, or completing the northern part of the traverse.

If the traverse was completed on day 7, we continue the descent by the northern route to Emmanuel Glade after breakfast. Transport meets the group there for the drive to the hotel in Mineralnye Vody.

If the weather or other circumstances prevented the group from setting out on the main day, day 8 is used for a repeat attempt. The decision is taken by the lead guide on the basis of the actual conditions. In that case the place of the night and the time of the subsequent transfer depend on how the route goes. The night is spent in a shelter or at the hotel according to the actual schedule.

Day 9. End of the programme and departure.

If the traverse was completed on the main schedule, a transfer is arranged after breakfast from the hotel to the airport or the railway station in Mineralnye Vody. If the reserve day was used for the ascent, the group completes the descent from the northern slope in the morning and travels to Mineralnye Vody. We recommend choosing evening flights and trains so that there is a margin in case the schedule changes because of the weather or the length of the route. End of the programme.

• Professional guides — a lead guide accompanies the group throughout the programme, and assistant guides join for summit day. The ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide, so a group of four participants is accompanied by two guides
• Repeat group summit attempts within the days provided by the programme, at no extra charge. If part of the group reaches the summit, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts for the remaining participants are paid separately
• The services of a cook
• Hotel accommodation in twin rooms for all nights set out in the programme
• Accommodation in the shelters for the number of nights set out in the programme
• All transfers within the programme from Mineralnye Vody airport or railway station and back, including cable car tickets
• Three meals a day throughout the programme, other than during the stay in Mineralnye Vody. Dinner on the day of arrival and breakfast on the day of departure are included
• Group mountaineering and emergency equipment — ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and a first aid kit
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• The snowcat on summit day, paid separately on the spot where it is used. The snowcat is charged by the operator at the current season tariff and is paid separately on the spot. We try to agree additional options with our partners, and when rooms are free early check-in or late check-out is sometimes provided at no charge
• Personal equipment
• Medical insurance
• Lunches and dinners during the stay in Mineralnye Vody
• Additional costs arising from changes to the programme requested by participants or caused by circumstances the programme does not provide for
• The supplement for an alternative ascent by vehicle if the cable car is closed for maintenance in September and the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket

レンタルショップ Rock-and-Rent には、高品質で信頼性の高い装備がすべて揃っています。事前にすべて予約していただければ、極端な話、ショートパンツ姿で到着しても問題ありません。私たちは2001年からエルブルスに登山を行ってきましたが、装備選定の基準はただ一つ――エルブルスの環境条件に最大限適合していることです。

そして、この装備リストは非常に入念に作成されています。会社のガイドたちは合計で数千回の登頂を行ってきましたが、このリストに不要なものが含まれているとは考えていません。

書類：

• パスポート
• 航空券／鉄道チケット
• 医療保険
• バウチャー（外国籍の方）

個人装備：

• バックパック 50～60リットル
• バウルバッグ 60～100リットル
• 寝袋：快適使用温度 −10℃～0℃（6月～9月）、−30℃～−15℃（10月～5月）
• トレッキングポール（リング径70mm以上必須）
• アイゼン
• クラシックなアイスアックス（5～6mmの補助ロープ付き、ハーネスに装着可能、長さ2～3m）
• アイススクリュー（単独のカラビナに装着）
• クライミングハーネス
• ヘルメット
• カラビナ 5個（うち最低3個は大型推奨：ミトン着用時に扱いやすいため）
• セルフビレイ用ランヤード

服装・靴：

• スキーウェアはエルブルスに適しているか？
• 登山靴（二重または三重構造、プラスチック製または革製）
• トレッキングブーツ
• 防水レイヤー（ジャケット＋パンツ）：推奨耐水圧 10,000／10,000 以上
• フリース上下
• 保温下着（上下）
• フード付きダウンジャケット（厚手で保温性の高いもの。エルブルス向けの標準的なダウンは重量700g以上）
• 防寒ミトン
• 厚手グローブ（スキー用）
• 薄手グローブ（フリース）
• バンダナ（谷では日除けに、寒冷時には首や顔の防寒に使用可能）
• ニット帽
• 登頂日に使用する保温トレッキングソックス
• 日除け用ヘッドウェア
• トレッキングパンツおよびシャツ（長袖推奨）
• トレッキング用ソックス（トレッキング日数分推奨）

その他：

• ヘッドランプ（連続点灯時間24時間以上）
• サングラス（保護カテゴリー3～4、側面からの光を完全に遮るもの）
• スキーゴーグル（保護カテゴリー1～2、悪天候用）
• サーモス 1リットル（フタにボタンのないタイプ推奨）
• フェイスマスク（防風用、スカーフで代用可能な場合あり）
• 日焼け止め（有名ブランド、SPF30～50 ※実用上30と50の差はほとんどありません）
• リップクリーム SPF15
• 個人用救急セット
• 伸縮包帯および／またはサポーター
• ゲイター（必須ではありませんが、特に5～6月は役立つことがあります）
• 化学カイロ（必須ではありませんが、非常に役立つ場合があります）