Climb Razdelnaya Peak, 6148 m — 15-Day Pamir Expedition

Razdelnaya Peak, 6148 m, stands on the northern classic route to Lenin Peak. The summit is an independent 6000 m objective and at the same time an introduction to the logic of a large high-altitude expedition without continuing to 7134 m. That distinction matters: the programme ends on Razdelnaya and is not a shortened promise of an ascent of Lenin Peak.

From Osh the group drives to Achik-Tash and then walks to the camp at 4400 m. The acclimatisation includes an excursion to 4700 m, an ascent of a neighbouring summit at about 5100 m and recovery lower down. After the rest the high-altitude cycle begins, through the camp at 5400 m to the Razdelnaya ridge. The descents between excursions are there for recovery; they are not lost time.

The technical difficulty is moderate but real. On the glacier between the camps at 4400 m and 5400 m the group moves roped, crosses crevassed ground and uses crampons. Above that there is a snow slope and an open ridge, where wind, cold and hypoxia can cut the pace sharply. A participant must be confident with crampons, ice axe, harness, ascender and descender before the expedition starts.

The route suits a climber who has already been at 4500–5000 m and wants to test how they tolerate nights above 5000 m, how they handle high-altitude equipment and whether they are ready psychologically for an expedition routine. It does not suit someone without mountain experience merely because it is technically easier than the full ascent of Lenin Peak. The decision to continue rests with the leader, taking into account how everyone is feeling, the pace, the weather and the state of the glacier.

Razdelnaya can be treated as an objective in its own right or as preparation for Lenin Peak.

Day 1. Arrival in Osh.

A member of the team meets the group at the airport and arranges the transfer to the hotel. In the evening we meet the leader, check equipment and go through glacier technique and high-altitude tactics. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Drive to Achik-Tash, 3600 m.

We drive to the lower camp, settle in and sort the loads. The first evening at altitude is used for rest and for watching how everyone is feeling. Night in tents.

Day 3. Acclimatisation excursion.

We make an easy walk around Achik-Tash and return for the night. The aim is to start adapting without overloading, and to check footwear and pace. Night in tents.

Day 4. Move to the camp at 4400 m.

We cover about 18 km to the camp by the glacier. The long approach calls for an even distribution of effort. On arrival we prepare the technical equipment for the excursions to come. Night in tents.

Day 5. Acclimatisation excursion to 4700 m.

We climb to roughly 4700 m and return for the night. The excursion helps assess the body’s reaction and gives time to practise movement in crampons and on the rope before the higher rotation. Night in tents.

Day 6. Acclimatisation ascent at about 5100 m.

We climb a neighbouring summit at about 5100 m and stay for a night at altitude, as the confirmed programme provides. The day is there for adaptation before the camps at 5400 m and 6100 m. Night in tents.

Day 7. Descent to 4400 m.

We return to the lower camp to restore sleep, appetite and fluid balance after the night above 5000 m. The leader assesses readiness for the summit cycle. Night in tents.

Day 8. Rest day.

We recover fully, dry our kit and prepare the personal set. Without a decision by the leader the day is not replaced by extra load. Night in tents.

Day 9. Climb to the camp at 5400 m.

We cross the glacier section roped and climb to 5400 m. The state of the crevasses and snow bridges changes, so participants keep strictly to their spacing and to the guide’s instructions. Night in tents.

Day 10. Ascent of Razdelnaya, 6148 m, and descent to 5400 m.

We climb the snow slope and the ridge to the summit of Razdelnaya. The high camp lies at about 6100 m, but the objective of the day is the summit at 6148 m. The turnaround time is set by the leader; reaching the summit is not guaranteed. From the highest point reached we descend to sleep at 5400 m. Night in tents.

Day 11. Descent to 4400 m.

We return across the glacier to the lower camp. After the summit day it is particularly important to stay concentrated on the technical section. Night in tents.

Days 12–13. Reserve.

Two days make it possible to move the summit cycle for the weather or for recovery. The reserve does not mean an automatic second attempt. If the climb has been completed as planned, the time is used for rest and for bringing the loads down safely. Nights in tents.

Day 14. Return to Osh.

We descend to Achik-Tash and drive to Osh. After checking in we sort out the baggage and recover from the mountain section. Night in a hotel.

Day 15. End of the programme.

At the agreed time there is a transfer to Osh airport. Participants check in for their flight themselves. Choose the return ticket with the reserve days in mind.

• Professional mountain guides — one per 5–6 clients during the acclimatisation, one per 3 clients on summit day
• All transfers set out in the programme
• Hotel accommodation in Osh as set out in the programme
• Tented accommodation at Achik-Tash and at the base camps as set out in the programme
• Breakfasts in Osh
• Breakfast, lunch and dinner en route, at Achik-Tash (3600 m) and at Base Camp (4400 m)
• Food for the high camps
• Tents for the high camps
• Gas for the high camps
• A first-aid kit
• Ropes
• Any consultation with the guide
• All the necessary documentation
• Kitchen equipment, apart from your own plate, mug and spoon
• Horses for carrying personal baggage, on the basis of 20 kg per person
• Cook services are included at Base Camp. In the high camps participants cook for themselves and food is issued before each departure. If you need it, the guide will of course help you with this too

• Lunches and dinners in the towns
• Personal expenses, tips and drinks
• Medical insurance, medical costs and the cost of rescue operations
• Hot showers
• Any costs arising from political instability or natural disasters
• Visa support
• Any costs arising from changes to the programme

必要書類：

• パスポート
• 航空券
• 医療保険

個人装備：

• バックパック（70〜80リットル）
• 寝袋（快適使用温度 −20℃）
• スリーピングマット
• トレッキングポール（必ず直径70mm以上のバスケット付き）
• アイゼン（スチール製またはアルミ製）
• クラシックアイスアックス（スチール製ピック付き）またはアイスツール
• クライミングハーネス
• カラビナ 5個
• セルフビレイ用ランヤード
• ユマール（アッセンダー）
• アイススクリュー（別カラビナで携行）
• マグカップ・スプーン・ボウル
• 5〜6mmの補助ロープ 5メートル

衣類・靴：

• アルパインブーツ（重量級、シングルまたはダブル）
• トレッキングブーツ
• スニーカー（街用）
• 防水レイヤー（ジャケット＋パンツ）。5000/5000クラスのシンプルなメンブレン素材から Gore-Tex 製品まで
• フリーススーツ
• 保温インナー（上下）
• フード付きダウンジャケット（厚手で高い保温性のあるもの）
• 厚手の手袋
• 薄手の手袋
• バンダナ（谷では日除けとして、寒冷時には首や顔の防寒にも使用可能）
• ニット帽
• 登頂日に使用する暖かいトレッキングソックス

その他：

• ヘッドランプ（連続点灯12時間以上）
• サングラス
• スキーゴーグル
• サーモス（1リットル、フタにボタンのないタイプ推奨）
• 防風フェイスマスク（スカーフで代用可）
• ゲイター
• 日焼け止めクリーム、リップクリーム
• 個人用救急セット
• 伸縮包帯および／またはサポーター