Climb Kazbek from the South, 5033 m — 8 Days in Georgia

We offer an ascent of Kazbek, 5033 m, one of the highest and most beautiful summits of the Caucasus. It stands in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus, in Georgia. Like Elbrus, Kazbek is an extinct volcano, as its conical shape and the clear traces of an ancient giant crater show.

There are many tales, legends and points of history attached to the mountain. At 3800 m, in a cave whose entrance lies in the upper part of an 80-metre rock face, stands the ancient Betlemi (Bethlehem) monastery. In the chronicles of Kartlis Tskhovreba the monastery is mentioned as a repository of relics and church treasures. Its monks reached it along a long iron chain.

Other legends belong to more distant times, when after the quarrel in heaven over stolen fire Prometheus was chained to a rock. That rock stood on Kazbek.

The best-known place in the surroundings of Kazbek is the ancient Holy Trinity monastery of Gergeti, Sameba, built in the 14th century on the hill just above the village of Kazbegi. Kazbek is also known from Mikhail Lermontov’s works «A Hero of Our Time» and «Mtsyri».

An ascent of Kazbek is an excellent way to test yourself.

This programme could be shorter, but many years of experience have shown that in this case there are no «spare» days. It will not be easy.

Day 1. Arrival in Kazbegi.

The group meets in the village of Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) at the foot of Kazbek. You can get there independently or by transfer from Tbilisi or Vladikavkaz, arranged on request in advance. After checking into a comfortable guest house the group gathers for dinner, where participants and instructors get to know one another. There is also a detailed briefing on the route, the necessary safety measures and the preparation of equipment. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Walk to the Gergeti Trinity church, 2170 m.

We walk up to the highest working Orthodox church in the world, the Trinity church at Gergeti, 2170 m. This beautiful spot is not only rewarding for the views: it also starts the adaptation to altitude. On our return there is an equipment check and a discussion of the days ahead. Free time can be spent walking around the village. In the evening a substantial dinner and rest at the hotel.

Day 3. Move to the meteorological station, 3600 m.

An early start, a solid breakfast, and we set off for the meteorological station. The stage begins with a vehicle lift and continues as an acclimatisation walk. It takes about 7–9 hours and crosses the Saberce pass at around 3000 m. Along the way there are wide views of mountain landscapes, glaciers and alpine meadows. On arrival at the meteorological station, 3600 m, we settle in: the night may be spent either in the building itself or in tents, depending on conditions and on the group’s preference.

Day 4. Acclimatisation excursion to the chapel at 4000 m.

An acclimatisation day is an important stage in preparing the body for the climb. Today we make an excursion to the chapel at 4000 m. Climbing up and returning improves how you feel and helps you get used to the thin air. The day ends with rest and a night at the meteorological station, or in tents.

Day 5. Rest day.

A rest day. After several full days we recover before the main test. Participants are free to use the time as they wish: walking in the surroundings, enjoying the views or resting in camp. Night again at the meteorological station or in tents.

Day 6. Ascent of Kazbek, 5033 m.

The most important day: the ascent of the summit of Kazbek, 5033 m. The start is planned for the early hours, before dawn. The way to the summit takes about 8–10 hours, including the descent back to the meteorological station. The climb follows the glacier, so specialist equipment is used: crampons and ropes. On the summit the reward is extraordinary views and a sense of achievement. Back in camp, a well-earned rest. Night at the meteorological station or in tents.

Day 7. Reserve day.

A reserve day, which may be used in the event of bad weather or a delay in the schedule. If the ascent has gone to plan, today we descend to Kazbegi, enjoying the closing stage of the adventure. Accommodation in a hotel, with dinner and a comfortable atmosphere.

Day 8. End of the programme.

After breakfast participants continue independently or take an organised transfer, arranged on request. The day can be spent resting or exploring local sights before travelling home.

• A guide throughout the programme
• Horses up and down, 15 kg per person
• Mountain guides — 1 per 3 people on summit day
• The transfers set out in the programme: from Kazbegi up to the mountain and from the mountain back to Kazbegi
• Nights at the meteorological station or in tents beside it, as set out in the programme
• Three meals a day on the mountain
• Breakfasts during the hotel stays
• Assistance in obtaining the necessary permissions
• Group equipment
• A first-aid kit
• Accommodation in Kazbegi in a guest house or hotel in twin rooms, for the number of nights set out in the programme

• International flights
• Personal porters for your own baggage
• Lunches and dinners during the hotel stays
• Personal equipment
• Additional costs arising from any deviation from the programme
• Medical insurance and the costs of evacuation in the event of an accident
• Personal expenses (drinks, internet, telephone calls and the like)
• A visa, where one is required for your nationality; the fee is set by the Georgian authorities
• Any costs arising from changes to the programme

Documents:

• Passport
• international passport
• Airplane / Train Tickets
• Medical insurance

Personal equipment:

• Backpack. 60-80l.
• Sleeping bag, comfort temperature from -10°C to 0°C (from June to September inclusive), from -20°C to -10°C (from October to May inclusive).
• Sleeping mattress.
• Trekking poles.
• Crampons
• Ice ax. Classical.
• Harness.
• Carabiners – 3 pcs.
• Mountaineering Lanyard
• Ice screw on a separate carbine
• Personal dishes

Clothes and shoes:

• Climbing boots single-layer or double. Double – plastic or leather. Of plastic, we recommend Scarpa Vega – perhaps the warmest of all double boots.
• Sneakers trekking or boots trekking. In May and early June, you can still see snow at the first acclimatization exits, in which case the advantage of shoes over sneakers is undeniable. However, after mid-June and until the end of September they can be replaced with sneakers.
• Waterproof layer – Jacket + pants. The industry offers a range of products from simple membranes 5000/5000 to products from Gore-Tex.
• Fleece pants and jacket.
• Thermo underwear top + bottom.
• Down jacket. Thick and warm.
• Mittens are warm.
• Thick gloves.
• Thin gloves.
• Bandana (in addition to sun protection in the valley, it can be used to warm your throat or face in the cold)
• Hat warm.
• Warm trekking socks for climbing day

Miscellaneous:

• LED headlamp.
• Sunglasses.
• Ski goggles.
• Thermos – 1l. Better without a button in the lid.
• Windproof mask on the lower part of the face (you can replace it with a scarf with some success).
• Gaiters.
• Sunblock and lip balm.
• Chemical heating pads (not necessary, but can be very useful).
• Personal medical kit.
• Knee support