Climb Dykh-Tau by the North Ridge, 13 Days

Dykh-Tau is the second highest summit in Russia and in Europe after Elbrus. The mountain stands in the Bezengi area of the Central Caucasus, where altitude is combined with complex ice and rock terrain, long approaches and limited infrastructure. Dykh-Tau features in the Stars of Bezengi and Snow Leopard of Russia programmes.

This programme uses the north ridge, Russian grade 4B. In the Russian system, routes run from grade 1 to grade 6 with A and B sub-grades at each level. It is a combined route with snow, ice and rock sections, where what matters is not only endurance and tolerance of altitude but the speed of safe work on a rope team. Participants must move confidently in crampons, use an ice axe, follow the guide’s instructions and work with karabiners, self-belay lanyards, an ascender and a descender.

The acclimatisation logic is built around the Bezengi area. After preparation at the mountaineering camp the group walks up to the Djangi-Kosh hut and makes an ascent of Sella Peak, then returns to the valley to rest. Only then does the high part of the programme on Dykh-Tau begin, with nights at the Russian Bivouac and the VTsSPS bivouac. That scheme does not make the route easy, but it does allow the team to reach the main climb better prepared.

Altitude on Dykh-Tau magnifies the consequences of any technical error and slows down ordinary actions. The decision to set out, the order of movement and the decision to turn back are therefore taken by the guide. It is worth studying the principles of physical preparation for big mountains in advance, but a training plan does not replace real climbing experience.

Day 1. Arrival at Mineralnye Vody and transfer to the Bezengi camp. Arrival at Mineralnye Vody airport, where the guide meets the group. Transfer to the Bezengi mountaineering camp in the heart of the Caucasus (200 km, about four hours on the road). On arrival, accommodation in comfortable cabins, dinner and an evening briefing about the route, including a discussion of the plans for the coming days. Night at the mountaineering camp.

Day 2. Preparation and equipment day. A day of preparation and packing. Equipment checks, training in the use of climbing gear and acclimatisation walks around the camp. You can enjoy the views of the glaciers and peaks that surround Bezengi. In the evening, a discussion of the technical details of the climb. Dinner and night at the mountaineering camp.

Day 3. Approach to the Djangi-Kosh hut. In the morning we set off on the approach to the Djangi-Kosh hut. The path runs through scenic mountain valleys and offers panoramas of imposing peaks and glaciers. The walk takes about 6 to 8 hours. On arrival, accommodation in the hut, rest and dinner.

Day 4. Acclimatisation ascent of Sella Peak. Today we make an acclimatisation ascent of Sella Peak. It is a technically straightforward but scenic route that helps prepare the body for altitude. The summit gives a panoramic view of the Dykh-Tau massif and the surrounding mountains. After the ascent we return to the Djangi-Kosh hut. Dinner and rest.

Day 5. Descent to the Bezengi camp. Descent back to the Bezengi mountaineering camp. The way follows the familiar route, with another chance to enjoy the views of the mountain valleys. Rest at the camp during the day, with free time for walks and relaxation. Dinner in the evening and preparation for the next stages.

Day 6. Rest day at the camp. A rest day at the mountaineering camp. A chance to recover, walk in the surrounding area or enjoy the views of the Bezengi glacier. In the evening the guide gives the final briefing before the climbing route begins.

Day 7. Approach to the Russian Bivouac. Approach to the place known as the Russian Bivouac. This is the first stage of the Dykh-Tau climb and involves a long walk over rocky paths and glacier sections. Accommodation in the high camp, dinner and a night in tents.

Day 8. Move to the VTsSPS bivouac. The move to the VTsSPS bivouac. This day demands good physical condition from participants: the route crosses steep ascents and snow and ice sections. The camp is set up at altitude, followed by dinner and rest.

Day 9. Summit day on Dykh-Tau, 5204 m. The main day of the Dykh-Tau climb. An early start on the route; the ascent requires skill with climbing equipment as well as endurance. The way crosses snow and rock sections, and from the summit at 5204 m there is a striking view of the Caucasus range. After the ascent we return to the VTsSPS bivouac.

Day 10. Descent to the Bezengi camp. Descent to the Bezengi mountaineering camp. This day allows you to relax properly after the demanding days of the climb. At the camp you can enjoy a hot dinner, comfort and good company.

Days 11-12. Reserve days. Reserve days in case of bad weather or other unforeseen circumstances. They can be used for additional walks or for rest at the mountaineering camp.

Day 13. Transfer to Mineralnye Vody. Morning transfer to Mineralnye Vody. On the way you can enjoy the views of the mountain valleys left behind. After arriving at the airport, the flight home, full of vivid impressions of the climb.

• Guides: a group leader throughout the programme and assistant guides on summit day (one guide for a maximum of one to two climbers). The cost covers support for one summit attempt only
• Hotel accommodation in double or triple rooms, for the number of nights set out in the programme
• Transfers and journeys according to the programme
• Obtaining permits and registrations for the route, with the exact scope and the responsibility of each side confirmed before booking
• Accommodation in cabins, for the number of nights set out in the programme
• The necessary group equipment (ropes, ice screws, tents, kitchen equipment, satellite navigation, radios and so on)
• Three meals a day, including dinner on the first day and breakfast on the last day of the trip

• Any personal equipment
• Single occupancy
• Cook’s and guides’ services in the case of additional climbs

書類：

• パスポート
• 航空券
• 医療保険

個人装備：

• バックパック（70～80リットル）
• シュラフ（快適使用温度 −20℃～−30℃）
• スリーピングマット
• トレッキングポール
• スチール製アイゼン
• クラシックなアイスアックス（スチール製ピック付き）またはアイスクライミングツール
• クライミングハーネス
• ヘルメット
• カラビナ 5個
• セルフビレイ用ランヤード
• ユマール（アッセンダー）
• アイススクリュー（別カラビナに装着）
• 下降器
• マグカップ・スプーン・ボウル
• 5～6mm のレップコード 5メートル

服装・靴：

• アルパインブーツ（三重または二重構造）。二重の場合はプラスチック製またはレザー製で、外付けゲイター付きが強く推奨されます
• トレッキングブーツ
• スニーカー（都市部用）
• 防水レイヤー：ジャケット＋パンツ（5,000/5,000 の簡易メンブレンから Gore-Tex 製品まで幅広い選択肢があります）
• フリース上下
• 保温インナー（上・下）
• フード付きダウンジャケット（厚手で十分に暖かいもの）
• 防寒用ミトン
• 予備のミトン
• 厚手のグローブ
• 薄手のグローブ
• バンダナ（日差し対策のほか、寒冷時の首や顔の防寒にも使用可能）
• ニット帽
• 登頂日に使用する暖かいトレッキングソックス

その他：

• ヘッドランプ（連続点灯時間12時間以上）
• サングラス
• スキーゴーグル
• サーモス（1リットル、フタにボタンのないものが望ましい）
• 下顔部用の防風マスク（スカーフで代用可能な場合もあります）
• ゲイター
• 日焼け止め、リップクリーム
• 化学カイロ（必須ではありませんが、非常に役立つ場合があります）
• 個人用救急キット
• 伸縮包帯および／またはサポーター