Climb Ararat, 5137 m — 7-Day Classic Programme

The ascent of Mount Ararat follows the classic high-mountain route in eastern Turkey. Ararat is a stratovolcanic massif of the Armenian Highlands, and its main summit, 5137 m, is the highest point in the country. According to the biblical tradition it was at this mountain that Noah’s Ark came to rest after the Flood.

The classic route is a common way to approach a first ascent above 5000 m. On the main part of the way there is no difficult rock climbing and there are no long technical sections. Even so, Ararat should not be treated as an ordinary trek: the altitude, the cold, the wind, the snow, the long summit day and the considerable height gain all demand endurance, proper acclimatisation and suitable equipment.

The route is fairly direct, so altitude is gained and lost quickly. That simplifies the overall logistics of the climb but raises the demands on acclimatisation, on watching how you feel and on pacing your effort. You need to keep energy in reserve not only for the summit but for a long descent.

The programme provides for staged adaptation. After the climb to the camp at 3340 m, participants make an acclimatisation excursion to 4200 m and return to sleep lower down. On the next stage the group moves up to the high camp, from which the summit climb begins. This scheme helps prepare you for the altitude, but it does not rule out symptoms of altitude illness.

Before the trip, read up on acclimatisation in the mountains and start your preparation for a high-altitude ascent well in advance. Good fitness does not replace acclimatisation, but it helps you cope with long stages and keep energy for a safe descent.

In terms of terrain the classic route on Ararat is technically more accessible than many popular high-mountain ascents. There are no long sections of rock climbing, but the state of the snow and ice changes with the month and the weather. On the upper part of the route crampons, an ice axe and confident movement on a snow slope may all be needed.

Early in the season, June included, a significant part of the route may be under snow. Early in the morning the snow is usually firmer and easier to move on in crampons. Once it warms it softens, becomes deep and noticeably increases the effort of the descent. The time of departure and the pace are therefore set by the guide.

The snow conditions also affect the carriage of baggage. Where the state of the trail and the weather allow, horses carry the main part of personal belongings and the camp load. In deep or wet snow they may not reach the planned camp, so a participant must be ready to carry some of their own kit.

On each stage every participant carries a day pack with water, warm clothing, protection from precipitation and sun, a personal first-aid kit and whatever else they need during the day. Having the main baggage carried makes the route easier, but it does not replace physical preparation.

The classic programme suits beginners who train regularly, have sufficient endurance and are ready to follow the guide’s recommendations. The accelerated three-day programme is intended only for experienced or recently acclimatised participants and is not a substitute for full acclimatisation.

Mountain Guide has a successful ascent of Ararat with a group of participants from Armenia behind it. That completed trip forms part of the team’s practical route experience, on which the briefing, the organisation of the camps and the tactics of the climb are based.

The guide manages the pace, watches the condition of the group and adjusts the tactics for the weather, the snow conditions and how the participants are feeling. Reaching the summit depends on the actual conditions and cannot be guaranteed. Participation requires mountaineering insurance covering an altitude of at least 5137 m, search and rescue and emergency evacuation.

Day 1. Arrival in Igdir.

Participants fly independently to Igdir airport, where a Mountain Guide representative meets the group. Arriving via Van is also possible, but the transfer from Van is paid for separately and must be agreed in advance. After checking into the hotel there is an introduction to the guide and the group, an equipment check and a briefing on the programme. Anything missing or unsuitable must be replaced before the departure for the mountain. In the evening, dinner and rest. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Move to the first camp, 3340 m.

After breakfast the group transfers to the village of Eli at 2200 m. The walking part of the route starts here. The climb to the first camp is made at a steady pace, which is what gradual adaptation to altitude requires. On arrival participants settle in, rest and prepare for the acclimatisation excursion. Night in tents. The walking section starts at 2200 m; the overnight altitude is 3340 m; the stage takes about 5 hours.

Day 3. Acclimatisation excursion to 4200 m.

After breakfast the group climbs from the first camp to 4200 m. At the high point participants rest and have a light snack, then descend to sleep back at the first camp. The excursion helps the body adapt to the altitude and lets the guide assess the pace and condition of the participants before the move to the high camp. Night in tents. Maximum altitude 4200 m; overnight altitude 3340 m.

Day 4. Move to the high camp, 4200 m.

After breakfast the group climbs the now familiar route again, this time to the high camp. A steady pace conserves energy before the early summit start. After settling in, participants rest, have dinner and prepare their clothing and equipment. The guide gives the final briefing, checks each personal kit and announces the departure time, taking the forecast, the state of the route and the group’s pace into account. Night in tents. Overnight altitude 4200 m.

Day 5. Ascent of the summit of Ararat, 5137 m.

The group sets off early in the morning. The start time and the tactics are set by the guide, taking into account the weather, the state of the snow and ice, the group’s pace and how the participants are feeling. On the upper part of the route crampons and an ice axe may be used. The decision to continue or to turn around rests with the guide. Reaching the summit is not guaranteed: the safety of the participants and a safe return take priority over any sporting result. From the summit, or from the turnaround point, the group descends to the high camp for a short rest and a snack, and then continues down to the lower camp. This is a long and physically demanding day, so it is important to keep energy for the full descent. Night in tents. Maximum altitude 5137 m.

Day 6. Reserve day and return to Dogubayazit.

The day is provided as a reserve in case of unfavourable weather or a change in the state of the route. If the ascent took place the day before, the group strikes camp after breakfast, descends to the village of Eli and transfers back to Dogubayazit. In the evening there is a visit to a local family and a celebratory dinner of Turkish dishes. If the reserve day is needed for a second attempt, the guide will adjust the subsequent schedule, the time of return and the evening programme. Night in a hotel.

Day 7. End of the programme.

After breakfast there is a group transfer to Igdir airport. The departure time is set by the flight schedule and the margin needed for the journey and for check-in. A transfer to Van airport is possible for an additional charge and is confirmed in advance. On arrival at the airport, participants check in for their flight themselves.

• Guiding — for a group of 4 people or more, a Mountain Guide team leader throughout the programme; for a group of up to 3 people, a local guide according to the tariff chosen
• Local assistant guides on summit day — no more than 4 participants per guide
• Hotel accommodation in Dogubayazit in twin or triple rooms, for the number of nights set out in the programme
• Group transfers on the route Igdir – Dogubayazit – Ararat – Igdir
• Three meals a day as set out in the programme, from dinner on the day of arrival to breakfast on the day of departure
• All the permissions and registrations required for the route
• Tents for the nights during the mountain part of the programme
• Horses to carry the group equipment and up to 15 kg of personal baggage per participant

• International and domestic air tickets to Igdir or Van and back
• Transfers from and to Van airport
• A visa and any other entry documents for Turkey, where these are required for your nationality
• Personal climbing and trekking equipment
• Medical insurance covering a high-mountain ascent
• The costs of search and rescue, medical assistance and emergency evacuation
• Personal expenses, including drinks, internet, telephone calls and shopping
• Additional costs if a participant ends the climb early or leaves the programme
• Costs arising from a change to the programme, from delayed or cancelled flights, from unfavourable weather or from other circumstances

書類：

• パスポート
• 航空券
• 医療保険

個人装備：

• バックパック：30～50リットル
• シュラフ（快適使用温度 −10℃以下）
• トレッキングポール（必ず直径70mm以上のバスケット付き）
• アイゼン（6月までのツアーでは必須）
• ピッケル（6月までのツアーでは必須）

衣類・履物：

• ダブルブーツ（プラスチック製または革製）。プラスチック製では Scarpa Vega を推奨します。7月までの登山用ダブルブーツの中でも、最も保温性の高いモデルの一つです。7～8月の登山では、アイゼン装着可能なトレッキングブーツでも可
• スニーカー
• 防水レイヤー：ジャケット＋パンツ。5000/5000 のシンプルなメンブレンから Gore-Tex 製品まで幅広く選択可能
• フリース上下
• 保温インナー（上・下）
• フード付きダウンジャケット
• 厚手の手袋
• 薄手の手袋
• バンダナ（谷では日除けとして、寒冷時には首や顔の保温にも使用可能）
• 帽子
• 登頂日に使用する暖かいトレッキングソックス

その他：

• ヘッドランプ（連続点灯12時間以上）
• サングラス
• スキーゴーグル
• サーモス：1リットル（フタにボタンのないものが望ましい）
• 再利用可能なウォーターボトル 1リットル（耐熱性が望ましい）
• 下顔部用の防風マスク（スカーフで代用可能な場合あり）
• ゲイター
• 日焼け止め、リップクリーム
• 化学カイロ（必須ではありませんが、非常に役立つ場合があります）
• 個人用救急セット
• 伸縮包帯および／またはサポーター