Elbrus Traverse from North to South, 10 Days

The traverse of Elbrus from north to south is a route that begins and ends on different sides of the mountain. Participants gain altitude gradually on the northern slope, climb the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, return to the saddle and continue down the southern route.

The northern part of the programme runs without cable cars, hotels or mass tourist infrastructure. Participants live in mountain shelters, gain the altitude under their own power and make acclimatisation hikes on glaciated terrain. That allows a full immersion in the atmosphere of a high-mountain route before the ascent even begins.

Compared with the classic ascent of Elbrus from the north, the traverse differs in the direction of the descent. After the summit the group does not return by the northern route but crosses the mountain and comes out onto the southern slope.

Before the ascent, at 3700 m, surplus items are handed to a porter. They are taken down to the Dzhyly-Su springs and then delivered to the hotel in Mineralnye Vody. Over the summit participants carry only the equipment and personal items needed on summit day and during the subsequent descent to the south. The rucksack on summit day is therefore slightly heavier than on an ordinary ascent that returns to the north.

The main day begins with a long climb by the northern route. Movement across the glacier is in roped parties under the guides’ control. After the West summit the group descends to the saddle and crosses to the southern side of Elbrus.

Conditions change noticeably on the southern slope. Equipped high-mountain shelters stand here and the cable car is running. After a long ascent the group spends the night in a shelter, and the remainder of the descent uses the infrastructure of the southern route.

That ending makes the traverse more comfortable than an ordinary return down the northern slope, but it does not reduce the effort of the climb. Up to the summit participants cannot count on a cable car or a snowcat, so they must be ready to gain the altitude under their own power and to work for a long time at high altitude.

The northern side of Elbrus is distinguished by wide valleys, ancient moraines and volcanic landforms. The crossing over the summit opens views of the Main Caucasus Range, and on the southern slope the route comes out among snow-covered peaks and the developed infrastructure of the Elbrus region.

Participants for whom comfortable acclimatisation using infrastructure at the start of the programme matters more should compare this route with the traverse of Elbrus from south to north. Those who prefer an entirely southern route are better suited by the classic ascent of Elbrus from the south.

Altitude affects each person individually. Good physical condition helps you carry the effort, but it does not guarantee quick adaptation to the lack of oxygen.

Preparation for the traverse has to begin well in advance. The main focus should be general endurance, long days of walking and the ability to hold a working pace after many hours of movement.

Whether the crossing to the southern slope is possible depends on the weather, the state of the route, the speed of the group and how participants feel. The final decision is taken by the lead guide.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to Emmanuel Glade.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the programme: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. After meeting the guide and the other participants we drive to Emmanuel Glade, where the active part of the north to south traverse begins.

We settle into the shelter, rest after the journey and gather for dinner. A detailed briefing then covers the programme, acclimatisation, equipment, the specifics of the northern route and the safety rules. The guide explains the sequence of the hikes, the ascent of the West summit and the subsequent descent to the southern slope. Overnight in the shelter.

Day 2. Additional acclimatisation hike around Emmanuel Glade.

After breakfast we make an unhurried out-and-back hike from base camp. The guide sets the exact route, its length and its high point according to the weather, conditions on the ground and how the group feels. The purpose of the day is to begin adapting to altitude without a sharp gain, to test clothing and boots in movement and to prepare the body for the next hike to 3700 m. After returning we rest and prepare equipment. Dinner and overnight in the shelter.

Day 3. Acclimatisation hike to the high shelter at 3700 m and equipment carry.

After breakfast we make the first acclimatisation hike to the shelter at 3700 m. We gain altitude at a calm pace, watch how everyone feels and begin adapting to the lack of oxygen. On the way up we get to know the character of the northern slope and the conditions of a self-supported route.

At the same time we carry up part of the equipment and supplies needed for the later stages of the programme, which reduces the load on the final move. After a rest by the shelter we descend to Emmanuel Glade, have dinner and discuss with the guide how everyone is. Overnight in the shelter.

Day 4. Move up to the high shelter at 3700 m.

After breakfast we climb the now familiar route again, this time with the remaining personal items and equipment. We move without haste, because the aim of the day is not only to reach the shelter but to conserve strength before the main acclimatisation hike.

After settling in we organise our space, rest and prepare clothing and equipment for the hike to the Lenz Rocks. In the evening the lead guide assesses the condition of the group, confirms the plan for the next day and repeats the rules for moving in the high-altitude zone. Overnight in the shelter at 3700 m.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Lenz Rocks at 4700 m.

After breakfast we begin the climb to the Lenz Rocks. The hike lets participants spend several hours well above the place where they sleep, check how the body reacts to altitude and prepare for the long effort of the ascent of Elbrus.

We move at the pace set by the guide and watch how everyone feels. The planned high point of the hike is about 4700 m. After reaching the Lenz Rocks, or the turnaround point set by the lead guide, we descend to the shelter. Dinner, rest and recovery. Overnight in the shelter at 3700 m. Ascent about 1000 m.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the traverse of Elbrus.

The day is given to recovering after the acclimatisation hike. Sleeping properly, restoring strength and avoiding unnecessary effort before the main stage of the programme all matter. Participants check clothing, boots, crampons, harnesses, headtorches, flasks and the rest of their personal equipment.

The guide runs the necessary sessions and gives the final briefing. We go through the order of movement on the northern route, the crossing of the saddle and the West summit, how the group works together and the specifics of the long descent to the southern side. Separately we pack the items that will not be needed during the traverse and that will be handed to the porter. Overnight in the shelter at 3700 m.

Day 7. Ascent of the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, and descent to the southern slope.

We set out at night, usually between 02:00 and 04:00. The exact start time is decided by the lead guide according to the forecast, the state of the slopes and the readiness of the group. Before setting out we hand the porter the items that will not be needed during the traverse. They are taken to the Dzhyly-Su springs and then on to the hotel in Mineralnye Vody.

We climb the northern route towards the saddle and the West summit of Elbrus. The climb takes 6–10 hours on average, depending on the weather, the state of the route and the pace of the participants. On the sections that require it we use crampons and harnesses and move in roped parties as the guides direct.

After reaching the West summit at 5642 m we return to the saddle and begin the long descent of the southern slope. The lead guide decides whether the group can continue, taking account of the time, the weather and the condition of the participants. On summit day the ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide. After the descent we settle into a shelter on the southern side of Elbrus. Overnight in the shelter.

Day 8. Reserve day for completing the traverse of Elbrus.

If the weather, the state of the route or the condition of the group prevented the ascent from being started or finished on the main day, the reserve is used for a further attempt at the lead guide’s decision. In that case the group again climbs the northern route to the West summit and, in safe conditions, descends to the southern side of Elbrus.

If the traverse was completed on the main summit day, participants rest in the shelter on the southern slope, recover after the long day at altitude and sort out their clothing and equipment. When the route has been completed successfully the night is spent in the shelter on the southern side. If the ascent was postponed or stopped, the lead guide decides the onward plan and the place of the night.

Day 9. Descent from the southern slope and return to Mineralnye Vody.

After breakfast we leave the high-mountain shelter and descend from the southern slope of Elbrus. Returning to the developed infrastructure of the southern side completes the active part of the traverse.

After the descent we drive to Mineralnye Vody, check into the hotel and rest. There is time for a shower, for sorting out equipment and for recovering after several days at altitude. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 10. End of the programme and departure.

After breakfast a transfer is arranged to the airport or to the railway station in Mineralnye Vody. We recommend choosing evening flights and trains so that there is a margin in case the schedule changes because of the weather, the length of the ascent or the use of the reserve day.

This completes the north to south traverse of Elbrus.

• Hotel accommodation in twin rooms for all nights set out in the programme. Please note that hotel check-out is by 12:00.
• Accommodation in the shelters for all nights set out in the programme
• All transfers within the programme
• Three meals a day during the mountain part of the programme, beginning with dinner on the first day
• Breakfast at the hotel in Mineralnye Vody on the last day
• Professional guides — a lead guide accompanies the group throughout the programme, and assistant guides join for summit day. The ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide, so a group of four participants is accompanied by two guides
• Repeat group summit attempts within the programme at no extra charge. If the whole group did not start or had to turn back, the reserve day can be used for a further attempt. If part of the group reaches the summit, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts for the remaining participants are paid separately
• Group mountaineering and emergency equipment — ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and other necessary items
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• Single occupancy
• National park permit, where applicable
• Early check-in or late check-out at the hotel before the start or after the end of the programme. We always try to agree additional benefits for our guests with our partners, so early check-in or late check-out is often provided free of charge
• Personal equipment
• Additional guides and cooks if the programme changes
• Lunches and dinners in Mineralnye Vody
• Additional costs arising from changes to the programme requested by participants or caused by circumstances the programme does not provide for

レンタルショップ「Rock-and-Rent」には、質の高い装備がすべて揃っています。事前にすべてを予約していただければ、ショートパンツのままでも到着可能です（必要であればエルブルス北側へもお届けします）。私たちが装備を選定する基準はただ一つ――2001年からご案内しているエルブルスの環境に最大限適していることです。

そして、このリストは非常に慎重に作成されています。会社のガイドたちはこれまでに合計で数千回の登頂を行ってきましたが、この中に無駄なものが一つもないと私たちは考えています。

書類：

• パスポート
• 航空券／鉄道チケット
• 医療保険
• バウチャー（外国籍の方）

個人装備：

• バックパック（50～60リットル）
• ダッフルバッグ（60～100リットル）
• スリーピングバッグ：快適温度 −15℃～−5℃（6月～9月）、−30℃～−15℃（10月～5月）
• トレッキングポール（直径70mm以上のバスケット付き必須）
• アイゼン
• クラシックタイプのアイスアックス（ハーネスに連結するための5～6mm補助ロープ付き、2～3m）
• アイススクリュー（単独カラビナ付き）
• クライミングハーネス
• ヘルメット
• カラビナ 5個（うち少なくとも3個は大型がおすすめ。手袋着用時に扱いやすい）
• セルフビレイ用ランヤード

衣類・シューズ：

• エルブルスにスキーウェアは適しているか？
• 高所用登山靴（二重または三重構造、プラスチック製またはレザー）
• トレッキングブーツ
• 防水レイヤー（ジャケット＋パンツ）。耐水圧10,000/10,000以上を推奨
• フリース上下
• ベースレイヤー（上下）
• フード付きダウンジャケット（厚手で保温性の高いもの。エルブルス用として適切なダウンの重量は通常700g以上）
• 防寒ミトン
• 厚手の手袋（スキー用）
• 薄手の手袋（フリース）
• バンダナ（谷では日除けとして、寒冷時には首や顔の防寒として使用可能）
• ニット帽
• 登頂日用の厚手トレッキングソックス
• 日除け用ヘッドウェア
• トレッキングパンツおよび長袖シャツ
• トレッキング用ソックス（トレッキング日数分が望ましい）

その他：

• ヘッドランプ（連続点灯時間24時間以上）
• サングラス（UVカットカテゴリー3～4、側面からの光も完全に遮断するもの）
• ゴーグル（悪天候用、カテゴリー1～2）
• サーモス（1リットル、ボタン式フタは非推奨）
• フェイスマスク（下半分用、防風タイプ。スカーフで代用可）
• 日焼け止めクリーム（ブランド品、SPF30～50。実際の使用では30と50の差はほとんどありません）
• UVカット付きリップクリーム（SPF15）
• 個人用救急キット
• 伸縮包帯および／またはサポーター
• ゲイター（必須ではありませんが、特に5～6月は役立つ場合があります）
• 使い捨てカイロ（必須ではありませんが、非常に役立つことがあります）