Climb Lenin Peak, 7134 m — 21-Day Pamir Expedition

Lenin Peak, 7134 m, stands in the Trans-Alai range of the Pamir on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. The classic northern route has well-developed camp logistics, but its relative popularity does not make the mountain safe, and it does not make it suitable for a first encounter with mountaineering.

The programme starts in Osh and in the Achik-Tash meadows at 3600 m. After a first excursion the group moves to the camp at 4400 m, acclimatises to 5100–5400 m and descends to recover. The second rotation reaches 6100 m, after which participants come down again. Only then does the summit cycle begin.

The key technical section runs along the glacier between the camps at 4400 m and 5400 m. Roped travel, crampons and the skills to deal with crevasses are needed here. Higher up the terrain becomes more open and windier, and a night at around 6100 m is a serious load in itself. Summit day calls for a large reserve of endurance and a safe return to camp.

High-altitude experience is not wanted as a formality: a participant should understand their own reaction to hypoxia, be able to service their equipment and make water in a tent, and stay effective after several weeks of expedition life. Admission is decided from the application form and the climbing history.

Lenin Peak belongs to the Snow Leopard programme. Before the trip it is worth working through the standard material on altitude illness and on mountaineering insurance. Developed infrastructure helps in organising an expedition, but evacuation and rescue at any altitude are not guaranteed.

After a successful ascent of Lenin Peak, the next objectives in the Snow Leopard programme can be Korzhenevskaya Peak and the harder Communism Peak, also known as Ismoil Somoni Peak. Admission to those is decided not only by the altitude of your previous summit but by your technical skills, your speed of recovery and your experience of working independently in high camps.

Day 1. Arrival in Osh.

A member of the team meets the group at the airport and arranges the transfer to the hotel. After a rest we meet the expedition leader, check equipment and go through communications, camp tactics and the turnaround criteria. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Drive to Achik-Tash, 3600 m.

We drive to the lower camp in the Achik-Tash meadows. After settling in we go through the infrastructure, sort the loads and watch the first reactions to altitude. Night in tents.

Day 3. First acclimatisation excursion.

We make an easy walk around the camp and return for the night. The altitude and the duration are set by the leader. The day gives a gentle start and a check on footwear, pace and condition before the 18-kilometre stage. Night in tents.

Day 4. Move to the camp at 4400 m.

We cover about 18 km to the camp at 4400 m. The long approach leads to the glacier part of the route, so participants walk at an even pace and conserve energy. On arrival we prepare the technical kit for the training session and the rotation. Night in tents.

Day 5. Acclimatisation excursion above the camp.

We climb above the camp and return for the night. The guide checks movement in crampons, roped travel and the handling of each personal kit. The aim is to continue adapting and to correct technical mistakes before the climb to 5100–5400 m. Night in tents.

Day 6. Excursion to 5100–5400 m.

On the leader’s decision the group either climbs to the camp at about 5400 m or makes an acclimatisation ascent of a neighbouring summit at about 5100 m. The choice depends on the weather, the state of the glacier and the participants’ readiness. The night at altitude completes the first full rotation. Night in tents.

Day 7. Descent to the camp at 4400 m.

We come back down to recover after the first night at altitude. Losing altitude improves sleep and appetite and shows how the body has tolerated the rotation. Night in tents.

Day 8. Rest day.

We recover fully, dry our kit and check crampons, ropes and the high-altitude set. Rest is part of the acclimatisation and is not replaced by extra load without a decision by the leader. Night in tents.

Day 9. Climb to the camp at 5400 m.

We cross the glacier section roped up again and climb to 5400 m. A familiar route allows a calmer pace, but the state of the crevasses and snow bridges may have changed. Night in tents.

Day 10. Climb to the camp at 6100 m.

We climb the snow terrain to the camp at about 6100 m. A night at altitude tests pace, clothing, self-sufficiency in camp and tolerance of the zone above 6000 m before the return to recover. Night in tents.

Day 11. Descent to 4400 m.

We return to the lower camp and begin full recovery after the second rotation. The leader assesses whether the acclimatisation is sufficient for the summit cycle. Night in tents.

Day 12. Rest and the decision on the summit attempt.

We rest, restore food and fluid intake and prepare the high-altitude loads. The leader compares the forecast, the state of the route and the condition of the group, and confirms the plan for days 13 to 19. Night in tents.

Day 13. Climb to 5400 m.

The summit cycle begins and we cross the glacier again to the camp at 5400 m. The task is to climb without unnecessary load and conserve energy for the next stage. Night in tents.

Day 14. Climb to 6100 m.

We move to the upper camp. After settling in we rest, prepare clothing, headtorches, water and food, and confirm the start time. Continuing is possible only with an acceptable forecast and a stable condition. Night in tents.

Day 15. Ascent of Lenin Peak, 7134 m.

We set off early in the morning. The turnaround time is set by the leader according to the pace, the weather and the participants’ condition. Reaching the summit is not guaranteed; from the highest point reached you must return safely to the camp at about 6100 m. Night in tents.

Day 16. Descent to 4400 m.

We descend through the high camps to 4400 m. After summit day, fatigue raises the risk of mistakes on the glacier, so movement stays organised right into camp. Night in tents.

Days 17–19. Reserve days.

The reserve makes it possible to move the stages of the summit cycle for the weather or for extra recovery. It does not mean a guaranteed second attempt. If the mountain has been completed to the main plan, the days are used for rest and for bringing the high-altitude loads down safely. Nights in tents.

Day 20. Descent to Achik-Tash and drive to Osh.

We finish the mountain section, descend to the lower camp and drive to Osh. After checking in we sort out the baggage and recover. Night in a hotel.

Day 21. End of the programme.

At the agreed time there is a transfer to the airport. Participants check in for their flight themselves. Choose the return ticket with the full reserve schedule in mind.

• Professional mountain guides — one per 5–6 clients during the acclimatisation, one per 3 clients on summit day
• All transfers set out in the programme
• Hotel accommodation in Osh as set out in the programme
• Tented accommodation at Achik-Tash and at the base camps as set out in the programme
• Breakfasts in Osh
• Breakfast, lunch and dinner en route, at Achik-Tash (3600 m) and at Base Camp (4400 m)
• Food for the high camps
• Tents for the high camps
• Gas for the high camps, a first-aid kit, ropes and any consultation with the guide
• All the necessary documentation
• Kitchen equipment, apart from your own plate, mug and spoon

• Air tickets
• Insurance
• Tips
• Porters
• Horses for carrying personal baggage, charged at the current rate and confirmed in the written quotation
• Alcohol
• Any costs arising from changes to the programme

書類：

• パスポート
• 航空券
• 医療保険

個人装備：

• バックパック（70〜80リットル）
• シュラフ（快適温度 −20℃〜−30℃）
• スリーピングマット
• トレッキングポール（必ず直径70mm以上のバスケット付き）
• アイゼン（スチール製またはアルミ製）
• クラシックタイプのアイスアックス（スチールピック付き）またはアイスツール
• クライミングハーネス
• カラビナ 5個
• セルフビレイ用ランヤード
• ユマール
• 別カラビナに装着したアイススクリュー
• カップ・スプーン・ボウル
• 5〜6mmのレップコード 5メートル

衣類・靴：

• 高所用登山靴（三重構造または二重構造）。二重靴はプラスチック製またはレザー製で、外付けゲイター付きが非常に望ましい
• トレッキングブーツ
• スニーカー（街用）
• 防水レイヤー：ジャケット＋パンツ。5000/5000クラスのシンプルなメンブレンからGore-Tex製品まで幅広く存在
• フリース上下
• 保温インナー（上・下）
• フード付きダウンジャケット。厚手で非常に暖かいもの
• 防寒用ミトン
• 予備のミトン
• 厚手のグローブ
• 薄手のグローブ
• バンダナ（谷では日除けとして、寒冷時には首や顔の保温にも使用可能）
• 帽子
• 登頂日に使用する暖かいトレッキング用ソックス

その他：

• ヘッドランプ（連続点灯12時間以上）
• サングラス
• スキーゴーグル
• 保温ボトル 1リットル（フタにボタンのないものが望ましい）
• 防風フェイスマスク（スカーフで代用可能な場合もあり）
• ゲイター
• 日焼け止めクリーム、リップクリーム
• 使い捨てカイロ（必須ではないが非常に役立つ場合あり）
• 個人用救急キット
• 弾性包帯および／またはサポーター